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[Tokyo 東京] Kioicho Mitani 紀尾井町 三谷

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紀尾井町 三谷 Mitani Kioicho

Add: 3F Kioicho Terrace, 1-3 Kioicho, Chiyoda, Tokyo
Tel: +81-3-6256-9566
Hours: lunch and dinner
Price: ~32,000 yen
Visited: Sep 2018

There are certain sushi restaurants in Tokyo that are simply impossible to book, such as Yotsuya Mitani. This tiny 9-seat sushi bar serves dinner only, and the next opening – even if you are introduced by a frequent customer – is apparently 2 years away. Fortunately for those who are eager to get a taste of what Mitani is about, a sister restaurant was opened two years ago in Kioicho. While dinner reservations here also need to be made months in advance, lunch is much easier…(reservation available via pocketconcierge.com)

東京有一些永遠訂不到的壽司店,四ツ谷的三谷(Yotsuya Mitani)就是其中一家。這小小的9人座壽司吧只有晚餐營業,不僅必須通過介紹人才能預約,而且即是如此都要等到兩年後才有位子,是個不可能的任務。不過兩年多前三谷在紀尾井町開了分店,雖然晚餐的訂位也是要到好幾個月後了,但是午餐顯然比較容易,朋友順利幫我訂到了位子。

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Mitani Kioicho is larger than the original restaurant, with a bar that seats 12 and a private room that accomodates 4-6. I went by myself for lunch, and was seated at the corner to be served by head chef Takano-san (the gentleman in glasses in the photo below).

紀尾井町三谷比本店要大一些,吧台可以坐12個人,還有個4-6人的包廂。我一人前往,被安排在吧台轉角的位子,由總店長高野博幸先生(下圖帶眼鏡這一位)服務。

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If I understood his Japanese correctly, Takano-san had been working with Mitani-san for years in another restaurant before Mitani Yotsuya opened. After yet a few more years together at Mitani Yotsuya, Takano-san was entrusted with the responsibility of heading up the sister restaurant when it opened two years ago. Bonus point: not only is Takano-san chatty and all smiles, he also speaks some English so no worries if you don’t understand Japanese.

如果我日文理解沒有錯誤的話,高野師傅在三谷師傅開店前就和他一起工作多年,稱他爲自己的 “master”。後來在四ツ谷三谷工作數年後,來到在紀尾井町三谷擔任店長一職,是位功力紮實、非常健談的一位壽司師傅,聊天時總是笑容滿面。他會說一些簡單的英語,完全不會日語的食客也不需要太擔心。

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First came a clear soup of clams with uni from Rishiri Island, Hokkaido. Naturally sweet and full of umami, a most charming start to a meal.

首先上的是蛤蜊清湯和北海道利尻島的海膽,鮮甜至極。

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Kioicho Mitani 紀尾井町 三谷

Next came two pieces of ruby red bonito, the skin slightly torched for an extra layer of fragrance.

接著是擁有如紅寶石般美麗色澤的鲣魚刺身,皮的那一側微微炙烤過,引出香氣。

Kioicho Mitani 紀尾井町 三谷

Sanma from Nemuro, Hokkaido, with a sauce made from its liver.

北海道根室市的秋刀魚,搭配魚肝做成的醬。

Kioicho Mitani 紀尾井町 三谷

A gentle and soothing soup made from the meat and roe of Hokkaido hairy crabs.

北海道的毛蟹肉和蟹黃羹湯,溫柔細致。

Kioicho Mitani 紀尾井町 三谷

Kioicho Mitani 紀尾井町 三谷

Next came shark fin with chopped tuna, which posed quite a challenge for me…Lesson learned – specify no shark fin next time when asked if I have any allergies or things I don’t eat.

接下來這道魚翅佐金槍魚泥有點尴尬。我平時是不吃的魚翅的,但用餐前高野師傅詢問我是否有過敏或者不吃的東西時,我完全沒有想到魚翅…都端到眼前了也不好意思退掉,只好提醒自己下次要事先說明。

Kioicho Mitani 紀尾井町 三谷

Uni rice with salmon roe broth. Uni + salmon roe broth + sushi rice = pure bliss.

海膽拌飯佐三文魚子湯,這是吃了會感動的鮮美,請想象一下…海膽…壽司飯…三文魚子湯…

Kioicho Mitani 紀尾井町 三谷

Kioicho Mitani 紀尾井町 三谷

Next came the nigiri sushi. Do note that at Mitani, the sushi is usually placed directly in the customer’s hand, but I had requested the chef to use the wooden plate for photography purposes. First up: white shrimp.

接下來,就是握壽司了。在三谷,師傅會將握好的壽司直接放到客人手裏而非盤子上,但因爲我想拍照才特別請他將壽司放在木盤子上。第一貫:白蝦。

Kioicho Mitani 紀尾井町 三谷

White squid.

第二貫:白烏賊。

Kioicho Mitani 紀尾井町 三谷

Sea bream.

第三貫:真鲷。

Kioicho Mitani 紀尾井町 三谷

Akami marinated in soy sauce, unbelievably soft.

第四貫:醬油腌制過的金槍魚赤身,柔滑到令人難以置信。

Kioicho Mitani 紀尾井町 三谷

Slightly torched otoro. Surprisingly, the texture was not melt-in-the-mouth as expected, but rather sturdy (in a good way).

第五貫:稍微炙烤過的金槍魚大脂,沒有肥膩感,而且肉質不是想象中的入口即化,反而厚實而有嚼勁。

Kioicho Mitani 紀尾井町 三谷

Kohada.

第六貫:小肌魚。

Kioicho Mitani 紀尾井町 三谷

Sardine.

第七貫:油脂豐富的沙丁魚。

Kioicho Mitani 紀尾井町 三谷

Hard clam.

第八貫:文蛤蜊。

Kioicho Mitani 紀尾井町 三谷

And finally, amadai. Since this fish is extremely tender and falls apart very easily, Takano-san asked me to take a photo of it in his hand rather than on the wooden plate. That incredibly tender texture! An amazing end to the procession of nigiri sushi.

最後一貫:紅睦魚。由于這款魚肉處理過後非常軟嫩,一放下就會散開,所以高野師傅讓我直接在他手裏拍照。入口時那柔軟的口感和鮮美的滋味!由這一貫作爲握壽司的結尾,太棒了。

Kioicho Mitani 紀尾井町 三谷

Kioicho Mitani 紀尾井町 三谷

After the nigiri sushi came the makis, starting with the otoro.

握壽司後,是金槍魚卷。

Kioicho Mitani 紀尾井町 三谷

Then, a kampyo maki (dried shavings of calabash), two wrapped with fried tofu skin and one left as is so I could try both flavors (but actually, they were both way too salty for my appreciation…)

以及包了炸豆皮的干瓢卷(高野師傅特別留了一個沒有包豆皮,讓我嘗到兩種風味…不過老實說兩個對我來說都太鹹了)。

Kioicho Mitani 紀尾井町 三谷

Then, a most charming tamagoyaki (look at all the layers!)

一枚美好的玉子燒(層層堆疊的蛋皮!)

Kioicho Mitani 紀尾井町 三谷

The meal ended with a sweet and sour pickled plum.

以酸甜的糖漬梅子結束這一餐。

Kioicho Mitani 紀尾井町 三谷

This meal at Mitani Kioicho was truly superb, but it doesn’t come cheap – lunch and dinner are both priced at around 32,000 yen, and wine pairing will cost you extra (I didn’t try this as I had a cocktail tasting scheduled right after lunch…but judging from what I saw on the table, there are some really nice bottles here). Sure it’s expensive, but considering that Shanghai now has some random sushi shop charging 2000 RMB for a meal, I’d much rather spend that money in Tokyo.

紀尾井町三谷的料理非常精彩,當然價格也不菲,午餐和晚餐一樣都是 32,000 日元左右。雖然昂貴,不過老實說上海現在也有不少隨便開價就是 2000 人民幣的壽司店,相較之下,我更願意在東京吃。

Note:紀尾井町三谷有餐酒搭配,除了清酒之外(看到好多瓶十四代),也有不少厲害的葡萄酒。我由于午餐之後還約了 cocktail tasting 所以沒有配酒,有興趣的人,可以了解一下。

Kioicho Mitani 紀尾井町 三谷

 

 Mitani Kioicho

地址:千代田區 紀尾井町 1-2 紀尾井テラス 3F
電話:+81-3-6256-9566
營業時間:午間 晚間皆可
價位:約 32,000 日幣
日期:2018年9月

 

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Written by sugarednspiced

October 10th, 2018 at 10:34 am