Sugared & Spiced

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[Tokyo 東京] Kioicho Mitani 紀尾井町 三谷

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紀尾井町 三谷 Mitani Kioicho

Add: 3F Kioicho Terrace, 1-3 Kioicho, Chiyoda, Tokyo
Tel: +81-3-6256-9566
Hours: lunch and dinner
Price: ~32,000 yen
Visited: Sep 2018

There are certain sushi restaurants in Tokyo that are simply impossible to book, such as Yotsuya Mitani. This tiny 9-seat sushi bar serves dinner only, and the next opening – even if you are introduced by a frequent customer – is apparently 2 years away. Fortunately for those who are eager to get a taste of what Mitani is about, a sister restaurant was opened two years ago in Kioicho. While dinner reservations here also need to be made months in advance, lunch is much easier…(reservation available via pocketconcierge.com)

東京有一些永遠訂不到的壽司店,四ツ谷的三谷(Yotsuya Mitani)就是其中一家。這小小的9人座壽司吧只有晚餐營業,不僅必須通過介紹人才能預約,而且即是如此都要等到兩年後才有位子,是個不可能的任務。不過兩年多前三谷在紀尾井町開了分店,雖然晚餐的訂位也是要到好幾個月後了,但是午餐顯然比較容易,朋友順利幫我訂到了位子。

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Mitani Kioicho is larger than the original restaurant, with a bar that seats 12 and a private room that accomodates 4-6. I went by myself for lunch, and was seated at the corner to be served by head chef Takano-san (the gentleman in glasses in the photo below).

紀尾井町三谷比本店要大一些,吧台可以坐12個人,還有個4-6人的包廂。我一人前往,被安排在吧台轉角的位子,由總店長高野博幸先生(下圖帶眼鏡這一位)服務。

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If I understood his Japanese correctly, Takano-san had been working with Mitani-san for years in another restaurant before Mitani Yotsuya opened. After yet a few more years together at Mitani Yotsuya, Takano-san was entrusted with the responsibility of heading up the sister restaurant when it opened two years ago. Bonus point: not only is Takano-san chatty and all smiles, he also speaks some English so no worries if you don’t understand Japanese.

如果我日文理解沒有錯誤的話,高野師傅在三谷師傅開店前就和他一起工作多年,稱他爲自己的 “master”。後來在四ツ谷三谷工作數年後,來到在紀尾井町三谷擔任店長一職,是位功力紮實、非常健談的一位壽司師傅,聊天時總是笑容滿面。他會說一些簡單的英語,完全不會日語的食客也不需要太擔心。

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First came a clear soup of clams with uni from Rishiri Island, Hokkaido. Naturally sweet and full of umami, a most charming start to a meal.

首先上的是蛤蜊清湯和北海道利尻島的海膽,鮮甜至極。

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Kioicho Mitani 紀尾井町 三谷

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October 10th, 2018 at 10:34 am

[Tokyo 東京] Yakumo Saryo 八雲茶寮

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Yakumo Saryo 八雲茶寮

Add: 3-4-7 Yakumo, Meguro-ku
Tel: +81-3-5731-1620
Hours: 9am-9pm
Website: yakumosaryo.jp
Price: Breakfast 3,200 yen + tax
Visited: Sep 2018

I wrote about Yakumo Saryo on Sugared & Spiced two years ago, after a charming afternoon visit to this beautiful space where I tasted an absolutely mesmerizing persimmon butter dessert. Upon returning to Tokyo, I decided to come back again for a morning tea session, which sounded like the best way to start a day…

大約兩年前在 Sugared & Spiced 上介紹過八雲茶寮。當時和朋友在下午時段前來喝茶吃和菓子,事後一直對當時嚐到的 “柿衣” 念念不忘(沒看過這篇文章的,請點擊這裏)。這次決定來享用朝茶,柔柔順順地開始一天。

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Yakumo Saryo is a bit removed from the city center, and it takes about 15 minutes to walk from the nearest metro station. It looks more like a private mansion, and if not for the “kakigori” signed hung near the gate during the summer season, I don’t suppose many passersby would dare venture in.

八雲茶寮距離市中心有一段距離,從最近的地鐵站走過來還要15分鍾。門口看上去像是個有大庭院的私宅,要不是因爲夏季門口挂上了 “氷” 的旗子,就算路過也不敢貿然入內吧?

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Upon entering the yard, its calming ambience is immediately soothing. It’s as if all worldly worries have been shielded and left behind the drapes.

穿過庭院來到入口處,因爲在豔陽下找路而煩躁的心開始自然沈澱,所有的煩惱和思緒,都遺留在布簾之外…

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The founder of Yakumo Saryo is designer Shinichiro Ogata, whose design studio Simplicity has put together well-known interior design works throughout Japan, such as Aesop Shinsaibashi Higashiya,  and Andaz Tokyo.

八雲茶寮的負責人緒方慎一郎是位室內設計師,他的設計事務所 Simplicity 出了非常多知名的店鋪,比如京都和東京的 Aesop 以及之前介紹過的 Higashiya 和櫻井焙茶研究所(都是值得去的好地方)。

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September 27th, 2018 at 10:50 am

[Tokyo 東京] CASICA

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CASICA

Add: 1-4-6 Shinkiba, Koto, Tokyo
Hours: 11:00-19:00
Website: casica.tokyo
Visited: Sep 2018

CASICA is a gorgeous two-story multi-purpose space converted from an old lumber warehouse. The location is in Shinkiba, which may look a bit far out on the map, but is actually only a 20-minute metro ride from Ginza. For those also interested in TeamLAB Planets & Borderless, these two exhibitions are close to CASICA, so it’s a good idea to do them on the same day.

2017 年底開幕的 CASICA 是個時空交錯的絕美空間。建築原本是木材倉庫,廢棄一段時日後才改建爲全新的複合式空間。地點位于稍微有點偏的 “新木場”,不過從銀座搭地鐵過來大概也就20幾分鍾,出站後步行5分鍾左右就可以抵達。(注:CASICA 離 TeamLAB 的兩個展覽 – Planets 和 Borderless – 都不遠,可以同一天前往。)

Tokyo CASICA 東京 カシカ

Tokyo CASICA 東京 カシカ

The renovated space is operated by Tanoshinal Inc., a Japanese film production company, with the concept of “visualizing one’s sense and values” and the aim to create an easy encounter with old and new, Japanese and foreign, without borders.  (“Visualization” in Japanese is かしか / CASICA.)

改造後的新空間由影像制作公司 “株式會社タノシナル” 營運,概念是 “將生活過的時間與空間可視化”。因爲日文中 “可視化” 的發音唸做 “かしか(CASICA)”,于是項目就以這個名字開啓了。

Tokyo CASICA 東京 カシカ

Tokyo CASICA 東京 カシカ

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September 24th, 2018 at 8:55 am

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[Tokyo 東京] AMAN TOKYO 東京安缦

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AMAN TOKYO

Add: The Otemachi Tower, 1-5-6 Otemachi, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo
Tel: 03 5224 3333
Website: www.aman.com/resorts/aman-tokyo
Price: afternoon tea 4600 yen +15%+8%
Visited: Sep 2018

I’ve been seeing too many beautiful photos of Aman Tokyo since it opened at the end of 2014 (has it really been almost four years?). So of course, it was with high expectations when I finally set foot on this property during a recent trip to Tokyo…

自東京安缦2014年底開幕以來(什麽,已經快四年了?),我就一直陸陸續續看到有關它的報道。這次去東京,終于踏了進去。 (better late than never, right?)

Aman Tokyo afternoon tea 東京安縵下午茶

The hotel is located in the financial district of Otemachi, up on the 33-38th floors of The Otemachi Tower. It’s only a five-minute walk from Tokyo Station, making it THE most centrally located Aman resort in the world. So convenient that it was almost disorienting, given that all the previous Aman resorts are known to be placed in relatively remote locations.

東京安缦位於金融區大手町瑞穗銀行建築的33-38樓,是安缦集團內首家高樓型度假酒店,距離東京車站僅約5分鐘步行,交通便捷的令人有點不習慣(畢竟安缦一直都走偏僻路線的)。

Aman Tokyo afternoon tea 東京安縵下午茶

Through a low-key entrance and an elevator ride later, a friend and I reached the lobby on the 33rd floor. Designed by Kerry Hill Architects, the hotel is a blend of traditional Japanese design with contemporary flair. Classic Japanese materials such as camphor wood, washi paper and stones are employed to create a calming oasis amidst the dizzying Tokyo city center.

經過一如既往低調的入口後上到33樓的大堂,一切豁然開朗。東京安缦由 Kerry Hill Architects 所設計,運用了充足的自然光以及日本本土素材 – 樟木、和紙、山石 – 來打造這座繁忙城市中的禪意綠洲。

Aman Tokyo afternoon tea 東京安縵下午茶

The most eye-catching centerpiece of the lobby is the 6-floor-high ceiling, created using layers of washi paper and shoji frame. Natural light diffuses through the washi paper into the grand lobby, giving it a soft and gently illuminated look.

大堂內最引人注目的是由高達6層樓的日式和紙及木框層層疊疊而成的挑高天花板。光線透過和紙灑在室內,明亮而柔和。

DSC01581Aman Tokyo afternoon tea 東京安縵下午茶

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September 23rd, 2018 at 6:21 pm

[Tokyo 東京] bricolage bread & co.

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bricolage bread & co.

Add: Keyakizaka Terrace, Roppongi 6-15-1 , Minato-ku
Tel: 03 6804 3350
Hours: [bakery] 11am-8pm [cafe/Dining] 9am-8pm (closed on Mon)
Website: bricolagebread.com
Visited: Sep 2018

There’s a beautiful new bakery in Roppongi called bricolage bread & co., and here’s why you should visit: the team behind the project consists of Shinobu Namae of L’Effervescence (two Michelin star restaurant in Tokyo), Ayumu Iwanaga of Le Sucré-Coeur (famed bakery in Osaka), and Kenji Kojima of Fuglen (popular cafe/bar in Oslo/Tokyo). An all star team to say the least, and it’s no wonder that bricolage bread & co. instantly became the hotspot as soon as it opened.

今年六月,東京六本木開了一家美得有點犯規的麵包店 – bricolage bread & co.,幕後推手是大阪知名烘培店 Le Sucré-Coeur 岩永歩,東京米其林二星 L’Effervescence 料理長生江史伸,以及 Fuglen Tokyo 小島賢治。如此驚人的組合,也難怪這家店會一炮而紅。

bricolage bread & co. tokyo

bricolage bread & co. tokyo

bricolage bread & co. tokyo

Bricolage is the French word for “do it yourself”, and that’s the concept at heart of this bakery. All breads are made using local Japanese flour, and these freshly baked wonders are paired with glorious coffee from none other than Fuglen.

Bricolage 是法語,可以翻譯成 “do it yourself”,也就是 “用自己的雙手創造” 的意思。這正是 bricolage bread & co. 的品牌理念,他們堅持使用國産小麥,由團隊親自至各産地挑選,再將新鮮烘焙出的面包佐以 Fuglen 的美妙咖啡。

bricolage bread & co. tokyo

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September 23rd, 2018 at 2:52 pm

[Tokyo 東京] フロリレージュ Florilège

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フロリレージュ Florilège

Add:B1 SEIZAN Gaien, 2-5-4, Jingumae, Shibuya, Tokyo
Tel:+81-3-6440-0878
Website:www.aoyama-florilege.jp/en
Hours:11am-3:30pm,6-11pm
Price:[lunch] 7,000 yen [dinner] 13,000 yen (+tax and service charge)
Visited:Sep 2018

I’ve been hearing such great things about Florilège (2 Michelin stars and #3 in Asian’s 50 Best Restaurants 2018) in the past two years that, as soon as my most recent Tokyo trip was confirmed, I made it top priority to reserve a much coveted seat at this French-inspired restaurant in Jingumae. Thanks to the wonderful Ms. J of TastyTrip, I was able to bypass the online waitlist and get a pretty last minute reservation at lunch. (Merci! Bisous!)

這家位于神宮前的法式餐廳 Florilège 近幾年聲名大噪(米其林二星,亞洲50最佳餐廳排名第三),我想去好一陣子了。這次東京之行來的突然,想訂位時已經全部客滿,還好拖了朋友的福(謝謝 TastyTrip 的 J 小姐),非常臨時地幫我訂到了午餐位子。

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Florilège is the French word for “anthology”, a collection of beautiful poems like flowers. Chef/owner Hiroyasu Kawate purposefully picked this word as he believes that a restaurant isn’t the work of any one single person, but rather is a collection of respect and passion by the producers and chefs, and also warm support by others.

Florilège 的意思是 “如花般優美的詩集”。如此詩情畫意的名字,爲主廚/老板川手寬康所取 – 因爲餐廳不可能由一人完成,需要很多人一起努力…“我希望,Florilège 是與團隊共同譜寫的詩篇。” 哎呀,還沒嚐到到他的料理,已經有點感動了。

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Chef Kawate was born into the restaurant business – his father ran a western-style restaurant, his older brother works a Chinese cuisine chef, and his younger brother as a sushi chef. I read in an earlier interview in which chef Kawate joked that he knew, since kindergarten, that when he grows up he would either become a chef or Anpanman (laughs). After spending his formative kitchen years in France, he returned to Tokyo, passing through legendary establishments like Quintessence (which I visited and was blown away by over 7 years ago…oh my) where he worked as sous chef, before launching his own restaurant in 2009.

川手主廚成長於餐飲業家族,父親是西餐廚師,哥哥是中菜師傅,表弟是壽司廚師。之前他在接受某訪問時曾笑稱 “幼稚園時就知道,自己長大後不是做廚師,就是成爲面包超人”。他赴法習藝回到東京後在鼎鼎大名的 Quintessence 擔任副主廚,並于 2009 年開出了自己的餐廳。

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The design of Florilège is not unlike that of a theater, with the open kitchen as the main stage, and 16 spectator seats surrounding it (a private room that seats 6 is also available). The fluidity between the kitchen and the tables allow chefs to flow freely in between, presenting freshly-plated dishes to the amused guests.

餐廳的設計像劇場般,共有22個座位圍繞著開放式廚房,廚師完成料理後直接將盤子遞給客人並做解說。川手主廚說這個不分內外場的空間是他所想要的一體感 – 客人與廚房、廚房與食材,整個餐廳與用餐體驗是連成一線的。

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September 21st, 2018 at 3:01 am

[Shanghai 上海] The Middle House 鏞舍

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The Middle House

Add: 366, Shimenyilu, Shanghai
Tel: 3216 8199
Website: www.themiddlehousehotel.com
Price: soft-opening price 2300 RMB and up

I’ve actually visited The Middle House once when it first soft-opened earlier this year, but at the time it didn’t feel ready. A few months later, I came back for a solo staycation, and was swooned away by both the hotel facilities and the smooth service. As the bellboy opened the door for me with a warm smile, saying “welcome home” instead of “welcome to the hotel”, I realized that I’ve fallen quite in love with this place.

其實早在镛舍剛試營業時我就悄悄來逛過一次,但當時感覺還有些生硬,未讓我有 “啊,好想立刻住進來“ 的念頭。時隔幾個月再訪,這裏的一切都變得柔順流暢…當bellboy邊開門邊用溫暖的微笑跟我說 “歡迎回家” 時,我就發現自己喜歡上這裏了。

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After Hong Kong, Beijing, and Chengdu, the Taikoo Group debuted their fourth member of the House Collectives – The Middle House, Shanghai. The location is next to the newly opened Taikoo Mall (doesn’t get much more convenient than that), with architecture and interior design done by Piero Lissoni, who created a tranquil space that’s especially precious in the hectic West Nanjing Road area.

繼香港、北京、成都之後,太古集團在上海開出了他們居舍系列的第四間作品 – The Middle House 镛舍。地點位于極方便的上海興業太古會,設計由意大利名設計師 Piero Lissoni 操刀,空間靜谧安逸,在南京西路這繁忙地帶裏更顯得難得。

Shanghai Middle House 上海 鏞舍

Shanghai Middle House 上海 鏞舍

Piero Lissoni employed his signature contemporary style to The Middle House, meshing Italian elements with local Shanghai flavors.

Piero Lissoni 是 Lissoni Architettura 的創始人,他糅合了意大利風格以及上海本土元素,並將自己一貫的簡潔線條和輪廓沿用到镛舍的設計上。

Shanghai Middle House 上海 鏞舍

Shanghai Middle House 上海 鏞舍

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August 31st, 2018 at 9:15 am

[Shanghai 上海] årgang

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årgang

Add: somewhere on Changle Road
Wechat: SYSH_100_4
Weibo: 實驗上海-Annie
Hours: reservation only via Wechat / Weibo
Price: drinks 35-40 RMB
Visited: Jul 2018

To discover årgang, you would have to wander down a residential alleyway on Changle Road and push open that half-closed white door at the very end. You would know that you are at the right place as soon as you hear jazz notes floating in the air, followed by that glorious, glorious small of freshly brewed coffee.

順著長樂路某個看似無奇的巷弄走到底,推開右手邊那半掩著的白色鐵門。首先注意到的是空氣中漂浮著的輕快爵士樂,接著,撲鼻而來的濃郁咖啡香氣。踏入這小空間時突然有種感覺:這裏的時間,似乎是以特別的流法在流著。

årgang

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The owners of this tiny cafe are Annie and Ray, a young couple known for their obsession with Nordic designs. The space is certainly true to its name “årgang” (which means vintage in Danish) as it’s filled 60’s and 70’s Scandinavian designs, from table to chairs to coffee cups to flower vases…

Note: it just so happens that the “a” and “r” in “årgang” also corresponds to Annie and Ray, while “gang” literally means together. A lovely coincidence indeed.

這是剛剛開幕的北歐小咖啡館 årgang。主理人是一對瘋狂著迷于北歐設計的年輕夫妻 – Annie 負責咖啡,Ray 負責音樂,空間由兩人共同設計,將北歐的元素自然而然地融入在每個角落。

注:由于喜歡古董 / 二手家具,Annie 和 Ray 將咖啡館取名爲 “årgang”,在丹麥語裏是 “vintage” 的意思。正好 a = Annie,r = Ray,gang = “一起” ,是個美好的巧合。

Shanghai årgang 上海

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July 9th, 2018 at 4:19 pm

[Shanghai 上海] Oxalis 歐社

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Oxalis

Add: 1-3 Maojiayuan Road 毛家園路1-3號
Tel: 6080 2918
Hours: [lunch] 12-2:30pm [weekend brunch] 12-3pm [dinner] 6-10pm
Price: [brunch] 200-250 RMB [dinner] 300-400 RMB
Visited: Jul 2018

Shanghai has plenty of spots that do brunch, but this new one right here has got my heart. The location is slightly off – at South Bund on the first floor of the Waterhouse Hotel – but weekends are meant to be spent going after good food anyway, no?

上海可以吃早午餐的地方隨手抓就是一把,不過最近開的這一家,可以說是深得我心了。地點稍微有些偏,在南外灘水舍酒店一樓,不過周末本來也就悠閑,爲了好吃的跑一趟還是值得的。

shanghai oxalis 上海

You probably have already noticed that this location used to be Table No. 1. Yes, that space previously occupied by Jason Atherton & Co. have been taken over by Jonas Noël, and he has since changed the restaurant name to Oxalis. Jonas might be young, but he already boasts an impressive CV – he started off at Michel Bras (3 Michelin stars, France), subsequently honed his skills at Bagatelle (2 Michelin stars, Norway), then made his way to Asia, first at Caprice (3 Michelin stars, Hong Kong), then eventually became the sous chef at L’Atelier de Joël Robouchon (2 Michelin stars, Shanghai).

Note: oxalis is the first type of edible herb that Jonas found while foraging for Restaurant Bras.

眼尖的讀者應該馬上就發現這是之前 Table No. 1 的位置。是的,這地方最近換了新主廚 Jonas Noël,名字也改成了 Oxalis(中文名:歐社)。Jonas 雖然年輕,但擁有相當華麗的履曆 – 他早年師從法國名廚 Michel Bras,隨後在挪威米其林二星 Bagatelle 經曆了北歐料理的洗禮,五年前來到亞洲,先待了香港三星 Caprice,然後在上海二星 L’Atelier de Joël Robouchon 擔任 sous chef 一職。

注:Oxalis 是種酸酸甜甜的酢漿草,是 Jonas 當年在 Restaurant Bras 工作時出外采集的第一株食用香草。

shanghai oxalis 上海

shanghai oxalis 上海

All those big names aside, Jonas’ cuisine is indeed excellent. I’d been to dinner at Oxalis once, and as I was very happy with what I tasted, decided to come back for the recently-launched brunch menu. (Incidentally, the Oxalis space, in my personal opinion, is also much more agreeable during day light than after dark.) Perhaps because of its off-the-path location, or because the news about its new chef / concept hasn’t gone out yet, the restaurant wasn’t packed during brunch time. Not ideal for the restaurant, but perfect for me as I thoroughly enjoy the laid-back atmosphere.

必須說,Jonas 的料理是真的好吃。之前已試過晚餐(非常滿意),所以這次又回來嚐嚐早午餐(還是喜歡這個空間充滿自然光的樣子)。可能因爲餐廳位置有些偏,換主廚的消息也還沒傳得太開,Oxalis 周末並沒有客滿。唔,這對餐廳來說可能不是件好事,但我倒是非常開心可以在如此悠閑安靜的環境慢慢享受周末…

shanghai oxalis 上海

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Written by sugarednspiced

July 9th, 2018 at 5:13 am

[Shanghai 上海] Luneurs

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Luneurs

Add: #107, Building B, Xinfuli, #67 Xinfu Lu
Tel: N/A
Hours: 8am-8pm (closed on Mondays during soft opening)
Price: breads & desserts 30-45 RMB, drinks 25-40 RMB
Visited: Jun 2018

The truth: it is no longer possible for a normal human being to keep up with the rapid changes in the Shanghai F&B scene. During my month of being away, I constantly received info about yet another new restaurant/bakery/cafe/bar that popped up…given the limited time and stomach space, let’s choose only the best of the best, starting with Luneurs, a French bakery and ice-cream shop that just opened shy of a week ago.

The truth:上海餐飲界更新的速度已經不是人類可以跟上的了。離開的這一個月內不停地收到新店開幕的消息,不知不覺中累積了長長一列清單。在時間和胃都有限的情況下,我們就挑精華的來吃吧!回上海後探訪的第一家店,是在幸福里開幕還未滿一周的法式麵包+冰淇淋店 “Luneurs”。

shanghai luneurs

So why the name “Luneurs”? Well, a croissant kind of looks like a crescent moon, and a scoop of ice-cream kind of looks like a full moon, so they decided to name the shop after the French world for moon, “lune”, but conjugated it to become “luneurs”, which literally means moon people (doesn’t quite make sense), but can be more figuratively interpreted as “dreamers”. Quite romantic, no?

先得說說這家店爲何取名爲 Luneurs。小店主打的#1是可頌麵包,長的像彎月,主打#2是冰淇淋,一球挖起來圓圓地像滿月。既然都跟月亮有些聯系,店老板決定將店名取爲法語中的 “Lune”(月亮)的變體 Luneurs,直意是 “月亮人們”,但更有 “有夢想的人們” 之意。

shanghai luneurs

The shop itself is simple: the space is filled with a display for breads, espresso machine, ice-cream tubs, a row of seats along the wall, that’s it. The simplicity of the design effectively draws all focus to the pastries arranged in a neat row on the center display.

這是一家簡單明了的店:方形的空間裏有麵包櫃、咖啡機、冰淇淋機、一排靠牆的座位,that’s it。如此簡潔的陳列,讓所有人的目光自然而然落在了櫃台上一字排開的麵包和甜點們身上。

shanghai luneurs

The owner of Luneurs mentions that this kind of simple, product-focused display is inspired by famed pastry chef Cédric Grolet’s newest pastry boutique in Paris:

Luneurs 的老板說這種極簡,將聚焦點放在産品上的陳列方式靈感來自巴黎甜點名廚 Cédric Grolet 的甜點店:

cedric grolet

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Written by sugarednspiced

June 28th, 2018 at 10:07 am