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[Shanghai 上海] Black Truffle Menu 2019 黑松露品嚐套餐

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Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire

Add: 480 Jian Guo West Road, Shanghai
Tel: (021) 5466 9928
Hours: 7am-10pm
Price: [lunch] 298-358 RMB+10% [dinner] 800RMB+
Visited: Jan 2019

Compared to its light-hearted lunch, dinner at Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire is usually quite a formal affair with more complex dishes – not my usual go-to spot as I generally prefer casual meals. I do, however, make exceptions for special occasions like their Black Truffle Menu collaboration with 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana last month.

相較午餐而言,Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire 的晚餐菜色繁複,氣氛正式,喜歡輕松的我其實不常光顧…除非有特殊場合,比如上個月他們和上海 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana 主廚 Riccardo La Perna 聯手的黑松露品嚐套餐。


First, a little blurb on truffles. These prized fungi can be categorized into winter white truffles (the most rare and extremely expensive), winter black truffles (less rare than white truffles but still expensive), and summer black truffles (can be found in more abundance and are often processed to make truffle sauce etc.). This particular 4-hand dinner is centered around winter black truffle (a.k.a. Tuber Melanosporum), and its unique aroma hit me right as I stepped into the dining room…

先來一段小科普。松露分爲冬季白松露(最稀少且極爲昂貴),冬季黑松露(産量比白松露多但仍價格不菲),以及夏季黑松露(産量較多,常被做成松露醬等副産品)。這次餐會用的是新鮮冬季黑松露(Tuber Melanosporum),一踏入餐廳,那獨特的香氣撲鼻而來…

DSC09193Chef Riccardo La Perna from 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana  

DSC09175Chef Romain Chapel from Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire

Dinner started with Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire’s seaweed jelly and baby turnips, shellfish seasoned with onion jus, green apple and cucumber, ricotta and crispy lotus roots, piquant salad – a light and refreshing starter, and the only dish of the evening that came without truffles.

晚宴從一道 Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire 的清爽前菜開始(也是當晚唯一一道沒有松露的菜):海藻凍、小圓蘿蔔、貝類、青蘋果、黃瓜、乳清奶酪、香脆藕片、開胃沙拉。


The second dish is 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana’s Australian Mayura wagyu beef tataki. Australian Mayura wagyu is also known as “chocolate wagyu” as parts of the cows’ diet includes milk chocolate and hazelnuts, resulting in a unique  sweetness, hint of nuttiness and buttery texture. Riccardo seasoned the Mayura wagyu beef tataki with white balsamic vinegar dressing and fresh winter black truffle, the combination is simply to die for.

第二道是來自 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana 的澳洲 Mayura 和牛薄片。澳洲 Mayura 和牛又稱 “巧克力和牛”,因爲他們在進入第30個月的肥育期時會開始被餵食牛奶巧克力、榛果等,因此肌紋開始生出油花,甜度增高。Riccardo 將珍貴的 Mayura 和牛微微炙烤過後配上白酒醋汁和冬季黑松露,那肉質柔軟又濃郁,令人銷魂。


From Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire: Hokkaido scallop mousseline, celeriac/artichoke/cuttlefish, fresh winter black truffle. Though it came after the incredibly tender and flavorful Mayura wagyu beef, the natural sweetness of the Hokkaido scallops was no less tempting.

Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire:北海道扇貝慕斯、芹根/洋薊/目魚、冬季黑松露。雖然跟在 Mayura 和牛之後,北海道扇貝的鮮甜仍然毫不失色,十分迷人。


8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana:handmade tagliatelle, parmigiano, fresh winter black truffle. Riccardo made a classic pasta using semolina and egg yolk, then cooked it in an aromatic stock of cauliflower, hazelnuts etc so that its flavor both matches and is enhanced by that of the winter black truffle. Probably the most memorable pasta I’ve had in a while!

8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana:手工義大利麵、帕瑪森奶酪、冬季黑松露。Riccardo 用杜蘭粗粒小麥粉(semolina)和蛋黃制成手工義大利麵,放在用花椰菜、榛果等食材炖煮而成的清湯裏煮熟,讓麵條的風味和冬季黑松露的香氣相輔相成。這是近期內吃到最美味的義大利麵了,最後一滴醬汁都不舍得剩下。


Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire: truffled duck pie, chicory leave with grapefruit, red cabbage marmalade – la pièce de résistance of the evening. This traditional French dish, “pithivier de canard”, is duck meat and innards wrapped with puff pastry, baking this to perfection requires quite some experience and skills.

Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire:法式黑松露鴨肉派、玉蘭菜、西柚、紅卷心菜醬,算是當晚的壓軸菜了。這道法國傳統的 pithivier de canard,做法是將鴨肉、內臟雜碎等以酥餅面皮包裹後烤制,火候要拿捏的准,非常考驗功力和經驗。


Romain first presented the baked duck pie in its entirety with a glistening puff pastry exterior, before slicing it into parts. What’s inside: duck meat that’s still pink (though I personally would prefer it to be even rarer), unctuous foie gras, and winter black truffle. Even better with duck jus sauce served on the side.

Romain 將烤好的鴨肉派端上桌,外表油亮,看起來十分誘人。切開上盤時方可看見裏面的內容:略帶粉嫩的鴨肉(不過個人偏好再生一點)、入口即化的肥肝、以及這次的主角冬季黑松露。嚐起來外酥內香,加上一點肉醬汁更增風味。


To go along with the duck pie: tamarillo sorbet, red port and red wine reduction, green mango salt and chili.



Lastly, the dessert from Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire’s pastry chef Clement Ayache: tarte soufflé with fresh winter black truffle, orange syrup, lamb’s lettuce with icing sugar. It looked substantial in quantity but was light on the stomach as it’s mostly airy soufflé, and yes even the dessert came donned in copious amounts of black truffle…

最後,是來自 Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire 甜點主廚 Clement Ayache 的舒芙蕾塔、橙子醬、野苣、以及冬季黑松露。看起來分量結實,不過主要是輕盈蓬松的舒芙蕾,吃起來負擔不大。是的,連甜點也豪邁地配上了黑松露…



A truly delicious meal, but this black truffle feast is unfortunately (or fortunately) not a regular menu at either Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire or 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana. The lovely lunch at Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire which I recommended last time, however, is indeed available everyday, do pick a sunny day to give it a try.

極致美味的一餐,不過這樣的冬季黑松露飨宴畢竟不是每天都有,可遇不可求(話說回來也無法天天這樣吃…)。In the mean while,之前推薦過的 Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire 美味午餐天天有,找個明亮的日子,去吃頓好心情吧!




Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire

電話:(021)5466 9928

Written by sugarednspiced

March 4th, 2019 at 1:12 am

[Shanghai 上海] Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire (2)

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Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire

Add: 480 Jian Guo West Road, Shanghai
Tel: (021) 5466 9928
Hours: 7am-10pm
Price: [lunch] 298-358 RMB+10% [dinner] 800RMB+
Visited: Jan 2019

One of my favorite lunch spots in Shanghai in the past few month has been Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire at the Capella Hotel. Even though I thought the restaurant quite delicious as early as it opened back in July 2017, it wasn’t until the latest two visits that I became a genuine fan.

最近幾個月在上海最喜歡的午餐地點之一,是建業里嘉佩樂酒店的 Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire。餐廳在2017年7月開幕不久後我就去嘗鮮了,初訪時雖然也覺得好吃,但真正被 ”打動“ 是最近兩次的事。


The restaurant is under French master chef Pierre Gagnaire, who has garnered no less than 17 Michelin stars all throughout the world. Though he himself can’t physically be in Shanghai to oversee everything, he has installed his protégés Romain Chapel as the executive chef and Clement Ayache as the pastry chef.

餐廳挂名的是全球擁有17顆米其林星星的法國名廚 Pierre Gagnaire,他老人家雖然平時不在上海,但安排了跟隨自己多年的得意門生 Romain Chapel 來擔任行政總廚以及 Clement Ayache 做甜點主廚。


Romain Chapel was born into a culinary family. His late father Alain Chapel was one of the most influential French chefs of his time, and even Pierre Gagnaire has passed through his Michelin Three Star establishment in Lyon. Things came a full circle of sorts when Romain started working for Pierre Gagnaire in 2012, and has since then been instrumental in a few of the grand chef’s establishments.

Romain Chapel 出身于烹饪世家,他的先父 Alain Chapel 當年是法國最出名的大廚之一,連 Pierre Gagnaire 也曾在他的三星米其林餐廳裏磨練過。這緣分也很奇妙,Romain 後來又遇上了 Pierre Gagnaire,自2012年開始前後在這位摘星名廚的數個餐廳裏擔當起重要角色。


Romain came to Shanghai in 2017 to open Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire, cooking “simple, honest, and elegant French cuisine” – classic dishes re-imagined with creativities in both the ingredients and techniques.

Romain 于2017年來到上海,開始在 Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire 做起 “簡單、誠實、優雅的法國料理“。菜色屬經典,但通過食材的巧思以及烹飪手法的創新,給客人們帶來意料之外的驚喜。


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March 3rd, 2019 at 12:08 pm

[Tokyo 東京] Il Ristorante Luca Fantin x JAAN 四手餐會

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Il Ristorante Luca Fantin

Add: Bvlgari Ginza Tower 2-7-12 Ginza, Chuo-ku Tokyo
Tel: +81 3 6362 0555
Hours: [lunch] 11:30am – 2pm L.O. [dinner] 5:30 – 8:30pm L.O. (closed on Sun & Mon)
Price: tasting menu 25,000 yen + 8% tax + 13% service charge
Visited: Nov 2018

Please note that this was an invited tasting.

There’s something exceedingly graceful about the dining room at Il Ristorante Luca Fantin, something I wasn’t able to experience the other night as I was tucked away at chef’s table (no complaints though). Just seeing the dining room during day light was a treat in itself – the towering windows that gave us a glimpse of the Ginza glitz at night now draw in an abundance of natural light, bringing out all the beautiful details of the space – shimmering chandelier, starched white table clothes, wine glasses light as air. It’s hard not to feel on top of the world when being ushered into somewhere as beautiful as this.

上回來 Il Ristorante Luca Fantin 坐在私密的 “主廚餐桌”,這次再訪則被安排在自然光充足的主用餐區,正好可以好好欣賞一下這個優雅空間的各個細節 – 閃閃發光的水晶燈、雪白的桌布、如空氣般輕盈的酒杯。有種,坐在世界頂端的美妙感。



You’ve already read about chef Luca (left on the picture below) last time, and here’s a short blurb on chef Kirk: he is the head chef at JAAN, where his “Modern British” cuisine has been awarded one Michelin star and ranked #44 on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants. His perpetually evolving menu embodies a seasonal philosophy to showcase British dining in a refreshing light…and we were about to have a taste of it.

看過上一篇文章的你對 chef Luca 主廚已略有所知,在這裏再簡單介紹一下 chef Kirk:來自德文郡的他將傳統英式料理以新穎的手法來詮釋,善用時令食材創造季節料理;身為新加坡 JAAN 的主廚,他以自己的 “摩登英式料理” 為餐廳收獲了一顆米其林星星以及亞洲50最佳餐廳排名#44。


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December 22nd, 2018 at 9:59 am

[Tokyo 東京] Il Ristorante Luca Fantin

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Il Ristorante Luca Fantin

Add: Bvlgari Ginza Tower 2-7-12 Ginza, Chuo-ku Tokyo
Tel: +81 3 6362 0555
Hours: [lunch] 11:30am – 2pm L.O. [dinner] 5:30 – 8:30pm L.O. (closed on Sun & Mon)
Price: tasting menu 25,000 yen + 8% tax + 13% service charge
Visited: Nov 2018

Please note that this was an invited tasting.

It might have been the company. I was at dinner with two charming ladies, the three of us seated snugly at Il Ristorante Luca Fantin’s chef’s table right outside the kitchen action – a setting sexy enough to swoon over for. But when I found myself  closing my eyes on the very first bite so I could concentrate on the intricate tangle of tastes and textures in my mouth, I knew that I was in for a wonderful adventure.

可能是當下的氣氛吧。這天晚上,我與兩位迷人的女士一同坐在 Il Ristorante Luca Fantin 的 chef’s table,這張私密的餐桌就在廚房邊上,不僅讓我們能一窺後廚的機密,每道菜完成後更由主廚親自端到我們桌邊並進行介紹 – 完全是美食家夢寐以求的場景。當我吃下第一口料理,我察覺到自己閉上了眼睛以便專注於感受舌尖上的風味變化…我知道,這場晚餐將會是一場奇妙的旅程。



But perhaps, let us back up a few steps and look at this restaurant in its elegant entirety. Il Ristorante Luca Fantin, perched on the 9th floor of the Bvlgari Tower in Ginza, Tokyo, is an unbearably gorgeous dining room  – soaring ceiling, bespoke chandeliers, and towering windows that allows in an abundance of natural light during the day and all the Ginza glitz at night. It is here where chef Luca Fantin, the first Italian chef in Japan to hold a Michelin star, conjures up his magical dishes.

不過讓我們先退後幾步,來看看 Il Ristorante Luca Fantin 這家餐廳的全貌。地點在東京銀座寶格麗大樓的9樓,是個優雅高貴的空間 – 挑高的天花板,別緻的水晶燈,巨大的玻璃窗讓餐廳在白天享有奢侈的自然光,晚間則可以將銀座的繁華盡收眼底。就是在這裡,首位於日本拿到米其林星星的義大利主廚 Luca Fantin 如戲法般炮製出一道又一道的美味料理。


Born in Treviso, Italy, chef Luca arrived in Tokyo in 2009 as Executive Chef at Il Ristorante, to push the boundaries of Italian cuisine in Japan, taking it to levels never reached before. He embarked on a quest for small producers all around Japan, and then utilized these often rare and always precious ingredients to craft dishes that embody the Italian passion for simplicity and the Japanese almost mystical awe of nature’s wonders.

*Prior to Il Ristorante, chef Luca worked at Pergola (3 Michelin stars) in Rome, Cracco in Milan (2 Michelin stars), Mugaritz in San Sebastien (2 Michelin stars), and Ryugin in Tokyo (3 Michelin stars) amongst other prestigious establishments.

Chef Luca 出身於義大利特雷維索(Treviso),2009年受邀成為東京寶格麗 Il Ristorante 餐廳的主廚,決心將日本的義大利餐廳推至前所未有的高度。他開始周遊日本找尋小農,然後用所尋獲的珍稀食材結合自己對義大利料理的熱情以及深厚功力,做出獨特而細膩的創作。

*在來到 Il Ristorante 之前,Chef Luca 曾在羅馬的 Pergola(三星),米蘭的 Cracco(二星),聖塞巴斯蒂安的 Mugaritz(二星),以東京的龍吟(三星)工作過,履歷相當精彩。


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November 29th, 2018 at 8:33 am

[Tokyo 東京] The SG Club

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The SG Club

Add: 1-7-8 Jinnan, Shibuya, Tokyo
Tel: 03-6427-0204
Hours: 2pm-2am
Price: [Guzzle] 1,100-1,800 yen/cocktail [Sip] 1,800-2,500 yen/cocktail
Visited on: Sep 2018

Those who are fascinated by the world of cocktails must be quite familiar with Speak Low and Sober Company. These two cocktail bars in Shanghai, founded by Shingo Gokan of the New York Angel’s Share fame, have been popular ever since their openings, and became even hotter after being on Asia’s 50 Best Bars a few years in a row. After establishing a strong base in Shanghai, Shingo and his team returned to Tokyo this year and opened their first ever bar in Japan.

喜歡調酒的你,一定對 Speak LowSober Company 不陌生。這兩家位于上海的酒吧由從紐約紅回亞洲的日本調酒師 Shingo Gokan 主理,不僅開幕就一炮而紅,在連續幾年得到 Asia’s 50 Best Bars 排名之後更是一座難求。在上海奠定基礎後,Shingo 和他的團隊于今年六月回到日本,在競爭激烈的東京開了他們首家位于自己本國的酒吧。

Tokyo 東京 The SG Club

They named their Tokyo bar “The SG Club” and placed it in Shibuya, which is an area often associated with images of 109 girls, but the bar is located slightly outside of the hustle and bustle, in a more quiet area known as “大人の渋谷” (adult’s shibuya). The bar is consisted of the casual and lively “Guzzle” on the first floor, and the more elegantly appointed “Sip” in the basement (S + G = SG Club).

東京店 The SG Club 的地點在涉谷區,不過不是大家首先想到的109辣妹一帶,而是稍微外圍一些,被稱爲 “大人の渋谷” 的熟齡區域。The SG Club 分爲兩樓,一樓是比較輕松的 Guzzle(意思是 “大口喝”),地下一層則是氣氛優雅的 Sip(“小口啜飲”),而 Sip 和 Guzzle 加起來就成了 SG,也是店名的由來。

Tokyo 東京 The SG Club

There are certainly many similarities between The SG Club and Speak Low, but the former has been inserted with some Japanese characteristics, such as signs written in Edo period Japanese, and ceilings adorned with tatami frames. There are also a few elements Shingo brought back from New York, like the in-house shoe-shining service (yes, there’s actually professional shoe shiner on-site).

The SG Club 和 Speak Low 有不少相似之處,不過在裝潢上更多了一些日式風格,比如用江戶時代日語書寫的指示牌以及榻榻米框架的天花板。店裏也加入了不少 Shingo 從紐約帶回來的元素,比如給客人擦鞋的空間(店員裏還真的有一位很專業的擦鞋師傅)。

Tokyo 東京 The SG Club

The vibe at Guzzle is casual and lively, with more straight-forward cocktails (1,100-1,800 yen) such as this New York Lemonade composed of clarified milk punch and Ch. Igai Takaha red wine. There’s no need to stir before drinking, and as the ratio changes slightly from sip to sip, the flavors also evolve.

Guzzle 的氣氛輕松熱絡,調酒較簡單(約1,100-1,800日幣),比如這杯 New York Lemonade 僅由 clarified milk punch 和 Ch. Igai Takaha 紅酒兩個元素組成,喝時無需攪拌,每一口的風味都在變化。

Tokyo 東京 The SG Club

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November 6th, 2018 at 8:15 am

[Tokyo 東京] Gen Yamamoto

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Gen Yamamoto

Add: Anniversary Building 1F 1-6-4 Azabu-Juban, Minato, Tokyo
Tel: 03-6434-0652
Hours: 3-11pm (closed on Mon)
Price: 4700 yen/4 cocktails, 6700 yen/6 cocktails
Visited: Sep 2018

First of all, do know that Gen Yamamoto isn’t your typical bar. Take its operating hours as an example – 3 to 11pm – obviously, this is not where you would come to get intoxicated on late nights. Secondly, there’s no menu here, all you can do is choose between the 4-course and 6-course cocktail tastings. Seriously, who would look for cocktail flights as early as 3pm? *…raises hand shyly*

首先,你要知道 Gen Yamamoto 不是一家尋常的酒吧。就拿營業時間來說,它居然下午3點就開門,晚上11點就打烊 – 很顯然,這不是一個讓人深夜買醉的地方。再者,這裏沒有酒單,你只能選擇4至6杯的 cocktail tasting 讓調酒師自由發揮。咦,有人會想要下午3點就開始大喝調酒?還真有,比如我本人 🙆🏻。

Tokyo Gen Yamamoto

It is highly recommended to make a reservation before visiting Gen Yamamoto (available via phone or email) as he is usually unable to accommodate drop-ins. I arrived at 3pm sharp for my appointment, and it took me a few moments to spot the unmarked entrance…surely only visible to those specifically looking.

Gen Yamamoto 採取預約制*,基本上只招待事先訂位的客人(可通過電話或郵件)。我在下午3點准時抵達這家位於麻布十番商店街側的一條不起眼小巷中的酒吧。門面低調,若非特意找來,大概根本看都不會看它一眼吧?

*就算現場有空位,Yamamoto-san 也不一定會開放給未預約的客人入座。倒不是擺高姿態,而是他有自己調酒的節奏,不想被未預約的客人打斷,影響到其它客人的體驗。

Tokyo Gen Yamamoto

Upon entering the draped door, an intimate space came into plain view – eight seats surrounding a L-shaped wooden bar, dim lighting, simple decors, no music. It’s as if all that’s unnecessary has been stripped, leaving only the absolute essentials. Yamamoto-san, clad in an all white suit jacket, also employs the same no-frills style in his mixology – no fancy hand gestures, no jiggers, just his own tastebuds to approve the taste of each made-to-order cocktails.

打開布簾後的門,小小的空間一覽無遺。八個位置圍繞著一整塊原木雕琢成的 L 型吧台,燈光昏黃、布置簡潔、沒有音樂,似乎一切多余的東西都被刪除,留下最必不可少的部分。身著白色西裝外套的 Yamamoto-san 連調酒也是這個風格 – 沒有花俏的手勢,不用量杯,完全憑自己的舌頭來確認調酒的風味。

Tokyo Gen Yamamoto

This makes perfect sense, as Yamamoto-san features seasonal fruits in his cocktails, and he must adapt the composition according to each fruit. Up first: freshly mashed cape gooseberry (a.k.a gound cherries) with a “Hakurakusei” junmai daiginjo sake.

這也合理,畢竟 Yamamoto-san 的調酒都以當季水果爲主,他必須根據每顆水果的風味做調整。比如第一杯,他將新鮮燈籠果現場搗碎後與 “伯樂星” 清酒調和,作爲 cocktail tasting 酸甜清爽的開始。

Tokyo Gen Yamamoto

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October 29th, 2018 at 2:53 am

[Taipei 台北] Tahara Ryogo Pop-Up 田原諒悟的實驗廚房

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After an absolutely enthralling meal at Florilège last month in Tokyo, I received an extra surprise at the end – that they are going to open a sister restaurant named “logy” in Taipei this fall. Ryogo Tahara, previously sous chef at Florilège, has been entrusted with the task of running the new restaurant, and has already moved to Taiwan to familiarize himself with the island’s abundance of local produce. Just last night, I had the pleasure of tasting some fruits of his exploration at a pop-up dinner at Fika Fika Coffee Lab.

上個月在東京 Florilège 用餐時聽說他們預計今年十一月要在台北開分店,當時就忍不住在心裏默默跳了一下 my happy dance。掌管新餐廳 “logy” 的田原諒悟先生(原 Florilège 副主廚)早在幾個月前就搬來台灣,花了不少時間環島認識當地食材。就在昨晚,我很幸運地有機會參加他在 Fika Fika Coffee Lab 舉辦的實驗廚房,品嚐了他這幾個月研究下來的一些成果。



Fika Fika Coffee Lab is the roasting space of Fika Fika, a Scandinavian-style cafe in Taipei opened by James Chen, the 2013 champion of Nordic Barista Cup. The roastery is not open to public except on special occasions such as last night, when the open kitchen gets taken over by a visiting chef.

Fika Fika Coffee Lab 是台北著名咖啡店 Fika Fika Cafe 的烘焙空間,由 2013 年北歐杯咖啡烘焙賽冠軍陳志煌先生所經營。這個空間平時純粹用來烘焙咖啡豆,只有在特定場合(比如昨晚的快閃餐會)才會開放給事先訂位的客人們。


It’s an intimate 8-seater bar surrounding the open kitchen, and I was one of the lucky diners who had a chance to experience chef Tahara’s magic. Prior to Florilege, he honed his culinary skills in Italy, working at Michelin star-studded establishments such as Ristorante La Torre del Saracino (Campagna), Restaurant Schöneck (Alto Adige), and Ristorante la Ciau del Tornavento (Piemonte). It goes without saying that we were in it for a real Italian treat…

Fika Fika Coffee Lab 的開放式廚房僅有八個吧台坐位,而我非常幸運地成為其中一位得以品嚐田原主廚的魔法料理的食客。在 Florilege 擔任副主廚之前,田原先生曾在義大利習藝多年,先後在數個米其林餐廳工作過,包括 Ristorante La Torre del Saracino (Campagna), Restaurant Schöneck (Alto Adige), 以及 Ristorante la Ciau del Tornavento (Piemonte)。他的料理以義大利烹飪手法為基礎,加上日式元素和台灣食材,令人萬分期待。


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October 27th, 2018 at 8:49 am

[Tokyo 東京] Kioicho Mitani 紀尾井町 三谷

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紀尾井町 三谷 Mitani Kioicho

Add: 3F Kioicho Terrace, 1-3 Kioicho, Chiyoda, Tokyo
Tel: +81-3-6256-9566
Hours: lunch and dinner
Price: ~32,000 yen
Visited: Sep 2018

There are certain sushi restaurants in Tokyo that are simply impossible to book, such as Yotsuya Mitani. This tiny 9-seat sushi bar serves dinner only, and the next opening – even if you are introduced by a frequent customer – is apparently 2 years away. Fortunately for those who are eager to get a taste of what Mitani is about, a sister restaurant was opened two years ago in Kioicho. While dinner reservations here also need to be made months in advance, lunch is much easier…(reservation available via

東京有一些永遠訂不到的壽司店,四ツ谷的三谷(Yotsuya Mitani)就是其中一家。這小小的9人座壽司吧只有晚餐營業,不僅必須通過介紹人才能預約,而且即是如此都要等到兩年後才有位子,是個不可能的任務。不過兩年多前三谷在紀尾井町開了分店,雖然晚餐的訂位也是要到好幾個月後了,但是午餐顯然比較容易,朋友順利幫我訂到了位子。


Mitani Kioicho is larger than the original restaurant, with a bar that seats 12 and a private room that accomodates 4-6. I went by myself for lunch, and was seated at the corner to be served by head chef Takano-san (the gentleman in glasses in the photo below).



If I understood his Japanese correctly, Takano-san had been working with Mitani-san for years in another restaurant before Mitani Yotsuya opened. After yet a few more years together at Mitani Yotsuya, Takano-san was entrusted with the responsibility of heading up the sister restaurant when it opened two years ago. Bonus point: not only is Takano-san chatty and all smiles, he also speaks some English so no worries if you don’t understand Japanese.

如果我日文理解沒有錯誤的話,高野師傅在三谷師傅開店前就和他一起工作多年,稱他爲自己的 “master”。後來在四ツ谷三谷工作數年後,來到在紀尾井町三谷擔任店長一職,是位功力紮實、非常健談的一位壽司師傅,聊天時總是笑容滿面。他會說一些簡單的英語,完全不會日語的食客也不需要太擔心。


First came a clear soup of clams with uni from Rishiri Island, Hokkaido. Naturally sweet and full of umami, a most charming start to a meal.



Kioicho Mitani 紀尾井町 三谷

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October 10th, 2018 at 10:34 am

[Tokyo 東京] Yakumo Saryo 八雲茶寮

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Yakumo Saryo 八雲茶寮

Add: 3-4-7 Yakumo, Meguro-ku
Tel: +81-3-5731-1620
Hours: 9am-9pm
Price: Breakfast 3,200 yen + tax
Visited: Sep 2018

I wrote about Yakumo Saryo on Sugared & Spiced two years ago, after a charming afternoon visit to this beautiful space where I tasted an absolutely mesmerizing persimmon butter dessert. Upon returning to Tokyo, I decided to come back again for a morning tea session, which sounded like the best way to start a day…

大約兩年前在 Sugared & Spiced 上介紹過八雲茶寮。當時和朋友在下午時段前來喝茶吃和菓子,事後一直對當時嚐到的 “柿衣” 念念不忘(沒看過這篇文章的,請點擊這裏)。這次決定來享用朝茶,柔柔順順地開始一天。


Yakumo Saryo is a bit removed from the city center, and it takes about 15 minutes to walk from the nearest metro station. It looks more like a private mansion, and if not for the “kakigori” signed hung near the gate during the summer season, I don’t suppose many passersby would dare venture in.

八雲茶寮距離市中心有一段距離,從最近的地鐵站走過來還要15分鍾。門口看上去像是個有大庭院的私宅,要不是因爲夏季門口挂上了 “氷” 的旗子,就算路過也不敢貿然入內吧?


Upon entering the yard, its calming ambience is immediately soothing. It’s as if all worldly worries have been shielded and left behind the drapes.




The founder of Yakumo Saryo is designer Shinichiro Ogata, whose design studio Simplicity has put together well-known interior design works throughout Japan, such as Aesop Shinsaibashi Higashiya,  and Andaz Tokyo.

八雲茶寮的負責人緒方慎一郎是位室內設計師,他的設計事務所 Simplicity 出了非常多知名的店鋪,比如京都和東京的 Aesop 以及之前介紹過的 Higashiya 和櫻井焙茶研究所(都是值得去的好地方)。


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September 27th, 2018 at 10:50 am

[Tokyo 東京] CASICA

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Add: 1-4-6 Shinkiba, Koto, Tokyo
Hours: 11:00-19:00
Visited: Sep 2018

CASICA is a gorgeous two-story multi-purpose space converted from an old lumber warehouse. The location is in Shinkiba, which may look a bit far out on the map, but is actually only a 20-minute metro ride from Ginza. For those also interested in TeamLAB Planets & Borderless, these two exhibitions are close to CASICA, so it’s a good idea to do them on the same day.

2017 年底開幕的 CASICA 是個時空交錯的絕美空間。建築原本是木材倉庫,廢棄一段時日後才改建爲全新的複合式空間。地點位于稍微有點偏的 “新木場”,不過從銀座搭地鐵過來大概也就20幾分鍾,出站後步行5分鍾左右就可以抵達。(注:CASICA 離 TeamLAB 的兩個展覽 – Planets 和 Borderless – 都不遠,可以同一天前往。)

Tokyo CASICA 東京 カシカ

Tokyo CASICA 東京 カシカ

The renovated space is operated by Tanoshinal Inc., a Japanese film production company, with the concept of “visualizing one’s sense and values” and the aim to create an easy encounter with old and new, Japanese and foreign, without borders.  (“Visualization” in Japanese is かしか / CASICA.)

改造後的新空間由影像制作公司 “株式會社タノシナル” 營運,概念是 “將生活過的時間與空間可視化”。因爲日文中 “可視化” 的發音唸做 “かしか(CASICA)”,于是項目就以這個名字開啓了。

Tokyo CASICA 東京 カシカ

Tokyo CASICA 東京 カシカ

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Written by sugarednspiced

September 24th, 2018 at 8:55 am

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