[Kanazawa 金澤] Day 3

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Kanazawa, April 2019.
金澤,2019年4月。

【Day 3】

11:00am…21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art
21世紀美術館
12:30pm…Soba lunch at Sarashina Fuji 

更科藤井 蕎麥麵
2pm…Kanazawa Urata

金沢うら田

21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art
21世紀美術館

Our main event of day 3 is visiting the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art. The space houses quite a few interesting installation arts, the most popular one being Leandro Enrich’s The Swimming Pool. Though the pool appears to be completely filled, the water is actually only 10cm deep, supported by a thick layer of transparent glass underneath which visitors can enter, creating a whimsical optical illusion.

最後一天的重點是21世紀美術館。這里有不少精彩作品,而其中最引人註目的應該是 Leandro Enrich 的 The Swimming Pool – 利用美術館的天窗加一層水,從上往下看像是真的游泳池,但參觀者也能在下走動,有令人驚喜的效果。

My personal favorite was James Turrell’s Blue Planet Sky, where a section of sky is framed in a rectangular hole in the center of the ceiling. If not in a hurry, one can easily sit here for hours to observe the changing light from morning to night.

我個人最喜歡的則是 James Turrell 的 Blue Planet Sky,安靜而迷人,不趕時間的話可以在這兒坐上好一陣子。

In one of the museum hallways, you will also find a row of SANAA’s armless chairs lined up sitting bunnies. A good photo spot, for sure.

館內還有 SANAA 設計的 armless chair,可愛的造型像兔耳朵。心血來潮請路過的法國遊客幫我們拍了照,姿勢和表情都未經安排,沒想到效果出奇地好。這樣的路人,可以來一打!

The outdoor and parts of the indoor areas of the museum is free entry, so you can actually enjoy some of the installations (such as Olafur Eliasson’s “Color Activity House”) for free. 

21世紀美術館室外和內部部分展區是免費的,不買票也可以看到知名藝術家的裝置作品,比如 Olafur Eliasson 的黃、綠、紅三原色玻璃幕牆,如同旋渦般,隨著日間光線的變化或者觀賞者自身的走動,都會有不同的斑斕景緻。

The Swimming Pool, however, is located in the ticketed area…so, you know what to do.

不過大家最愛的游泳池是在付費區,所以還是乖乖買門票吧!

21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art / 21 世紀美術館
Add:石川県金沢市広阪1-2-1

Website:www.kanazawa21.jp
Hours:10am-6pm(closed on Mon)
Price:~1000 yen (varies according to exhibition 根據展覽內容變動)

Sarashina Fuji 更科藤井

A good place to get lunch after 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art is Sarashina Fuji, a soba restaurant about a 5-minute walk from the museum. We tried the fried mochi soba and duck soba, both tasty, no wonder this is a popular eatery amongst the locals.

更科藤井是當地人非常喜愛的一家蕎麥麵店,炸麻糬蕎麥面和鴨肉蕎麥沾面都不錯。距離21世紀美術館步行5分鐘,逛完美術館後順道來這里吃個午餐,剛剛好。

Sarashina Fuji 更科藤井
Add:石川県金沢市柿木畠 3-3
Hours:[Tue-Sat] 11:30am-2pm, 5-10pm [Sun] 11:30am-8pm
Price:1000-2000 yen

Kanazawa Urata 金沢うら田

Before leaving Kanazawa, we stopped by Kanazawa Urata, a local wagashi (Japanese confectionary) brand famous for its Kaga Hachiman okiagari monaka cakes.

離開金澤前,去金沢うら田買伴手禮。這是一家1936年就創立的和菓子老鋪,他們的 “加賀八幡起上最中餅” 是不倒翁造型,超級可愛!

Modeled after the Kaga Hachiman okiagari*, these cute monaka cakes consist of a crisp outer crust made with rice, filled with sweet adzuki bean paste. Perfect with a cup of genmai tea.

*Okiagari are traditionally papier-mâché dolls, designed like roly-poly toys.

加賀八幡不倒翁是金澤地區的傳統玩具,可愛的長相源自於八幡大神出生時樣貌。而這款最中餅不只是包裝紙精美,餅上也印著細致的花樣,打開時驚喜感滿點。最中餅的外皮是用米做成的,米香十足,裡面塞著滿滿的紅豆餡,甜度搭配一杯玄米茶剛剛好。

We got these from Daiwa Department Store at the city center, but you can also find a branch of Urata at the Kanazawa train station. The designs are super cute, perfect as omiyage – don’t forget to bring a few boxes back at the end of the trip!

我是在市區的大和百貨公司地下美食街買到的,不過金澤車站也有金沢うら田的分店。可單買也可選禮盒裝,不過為了一個個不倒翁在盒子里的可愛模樣,一定要選禮盒呀!

Kanazawa Urata 金沢うら田
Add:石川県金沢市香林坊大和百貨地下美食街
Price:152 yen / one cake


That’s it for our 3-day trip to Kanazawa! Click here for Day 1 and Day 2 if you haven’t already read those.

P.S. We stayed at Hotel Trusty on this trip, chosen for its convenient location and fair price. Our friends have stayed at and recommend Hotel Pacific and UAN 雨庵, links provided here for reference.

金澤三日小旅行,以上。還未看過第一日第二日行程的人,歡迎點擊閱讀。

P.S. 這次我們住在 Hotel Trusty,飯店本身一般,不過地點很好,價格也合理。朋友們住過的 Hotel Pacific 以及 UAN 雨庵 看起來也都不錯,連結放在這里供參考。

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