Sugared & Spiced

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[Tainan] In Two Days

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During my week-long trip to Taipei last week, I decided to take a two-day trip down to Tainan (Southern Taiwan). Two friends and I headed down without much planning, so it was very much a go-with-the-flow type of trip – we even followed a local friend to visit a chiropractor…how very random to have my first ever chiropractic session in Tainan. Anyway, I’ve selected 25 photos from my Instagram to show you some lovely bits of this city, all addresses are at the end of this post for your information.

這次在台北一周時間,雖然有點趕,但還硬是去了台南兩天一夜。和朋友訂了住宿車票說走就走,完全是無計劃的閒逛行程,還莫名奇妙跟當地朋友去整了骨。人生第一次整骨就這樣在台南發生了,也是挺妙的。總之,從我的 Instagram 裡挑選了25張照片分享在這裏,希望給以後要去台灣玩的你一些美好的期待。

1. From Taipei to Tainan via high speed train is just under 2 hours for a price of around 1380TWD, very convenient. It does take another 20-30 minutes to get to the city center via a free transport shuttle, but it’s pretty easy breezy.

從台北搭高鐵到台南不到兩個小時的時間,車票大約1380台幣(280人民幣左右),非常方便。一下高鐵就是這個畫面,你看天氣好(熱)成這樣。趕緊跳上冷氣充足的免費接駁巴士,2~30分鍾後抵達市區。

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2. We had booked 謝宅 Old House Inn as our lodging, and as one of my travel mates is a regular customer, the owner personally came to pick us up and took us to lunch. His vintage Mercedes is super stylish despite the half broken door and air-conditioning…

在台南訂的住宿是 “謝宅”。因爲同行的朋友是常客,所以老板親自開車來接我們去吃飯。這台古董 mercedes 雖然冷氣和門好像都有點快不行了,卻還是很帥啊。(老板聲明:所有客人都會得到很棒的服務,不過接送吃飯這件事情不是大家都有的…)

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3. We went to a noodle shop called “吃麵吧” (Jai Mi Ba), owned by a young chef who previously worked at Robuchon Taipei. His dishes are an interesting fusion of Chinese noodles with western cooking techniques – we tried “檳榔花烤雞醋拌麵” (dry noodle with betel palm flowers, roasted chicken, and vinegar), “海藻透抽乾拌麵” (dry noodle with seaweed and squid),“蛤蜊豆漿湯麵” (soup noodle with clams and soy milk), all excellent. We were also treated to a serving of “黑橄欖甜餡餅”, a black olive dessert which delicious as well…must order.

老板怕我們被台南中午的高溫熱死,所以選擇帶我們去有冷氣,環境舒適的 “吃面吧” 用午餐。吃面吧的年輕老板/主廚曾在台北Robuchon工作過,他做的看似是中式面食,不過融合了西式料理的手法,非常有趣。我們嚐了 “槟榔花與烤雞醋拌面”、“海藻透抽乾拌面”、和 “蛤蜊豆漿湯面”,每一碗都美味。面被我拍醜了,所以放一張最後老板招待的黑橄榄甜餡餅(好吃,要點)。

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4. After lunch, we dropped by “清吉” for some fresh fruit juices. The lady in charge was very friendly and gave me some tips as I was hesitating between different choices…eventually I went for coconut juice + pear, perfecting refreshing on this hot hot Tainan summer day.

飯後,謝宅老板帶我們到附近的 “清吉” 水果店喝果汁。老板娘很親切,看我猶豫不決很久,還給了一些水果搭配的建議。最後我點了杯清爽的椰子+水梨+一點點甘草粉提味。

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5. Such colorful beauties: dragon fruit + apple + pineapple, mango, peach + yakult.

色彩缤紛的果汁們:火龍果+蘋果+鳳梨、土芒果、水蜜桃+養樂多。

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6. And we finally arrived at 謝宅 Old House Inn. The owner renovated a couple of his old family properties to  inns, the one we stayed at is Inn#4, a small two-story house with a cute courtyard. I’ll write a separate post on this inn later, so here are just a few photos to start with.

吃飽喝足之後,來到謝宅。謝宅是老板(沒錯,老板姓謝)將自家的老房子改造而成,現在共有6間大小和造型都不同的名宿。我們住的是 “謝宅四”,一棟兩層樓的小房子,之後還打算寫一篇文章專門介紹它,這裏就放幾張小圖意思意思。

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7. Lovely spot, but Tainan is so extremely hot and humid in June, not really ideal for sitting outdoor.

很可愛的小庭院,不過六月份的台南天氣悶熱,下午光坐著就冒汗啊。

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8. The host has prepared lotus root tea and fresh fruits for us in the fridge. How very thoughtful.

冰箱裏有事先准備好的蓮藕茶和水果切盤,很貼心。

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9. Love.

小巧玲珑。

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10. There is tea, coffee, snacks, music, and lots of books…one can easily spend an entire day inside.

屋裏有茶、咖啡、零食、音響、很多書…

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11. And we did in fact stay in for most of the afternoon because it started raining. No complaints – we were happy lounging around on couch, on the reading chair, or simply on the cool, comfortable tatami (AC much appreciated).

下午突然下了一場雨,于是我們在開了冷氣放著音樂的室內,在冰涼舒服的榻榻米上面打滾了好久,一直到傍晚才又再出門。

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12. We weren’t planning to see any tourist attractions, but we we were so close to the Confucius Temple that it seemed almost wrong to not take a stroll there. Apparently this is where students come to pray for good grades.

本來沒打算看什麽觀光景點的,不過孔廟正好在不遠的地方,就順道晃過去了。據說附近學生們祈求考試順利都會來這裏。

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13. And then, just randomly explored the tiny alleyways of Tainan.

接下來,就在台南的小巷子裏穿來穿去了。

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14. Couldn’t help but notice how many temples there are.

走著走著就覺得,台南的廟好多啊。

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15. Frangipani all over.

地上隨處可見緬栀花(還是叫雞蛋花比較可愛)。

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16. For dinner, we went to 保安路 (Bao An Road) to try some of Tainan’s famous street foods. Following a local friend, we ate at “阿卿” 杏仁茶 (almond tea), “茂雄” 蝦仁肉圓 (shrimp dumpling/cake/whatever), “阿村” 牛肉湯 (beef soup), “八寶彬圓仔惠” 冰 (shaved ice, don’t forget to order their famous glutinous rice dumplings). We were also planning to try “阿明” 豬心冬粉 (glass noodles with pig heart), but it was unfortunately closed that evening.

晚餐,在台南朋友的帶領下去了小吃店林立的保安路。當晚嘗了 “阿卿” 杏仁茶、“茂雄” 蝦仁肉圓、“阿村” 牛肉湯、某家忘了記名字的米糕和虱目魚羹、“八寶彬圓仔惠” 的冰(一定要加他們家有名的湯圓),每一家都好吃(怎麽會這樣!)本來還想吃大家都推薦的 “阿明” 豬心冬粉,可惜沒開呀。

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17. The next morning, we went to “阿堂咸粥” for take-outs of milk fish congee, fried dough, pan-fried fish etc. to be enjoyed in the comfort of our air-conditioned room.

第二天早上,去 “阿堂鹹粥” 外帶了虱目魚粥、油條、煎魚腸、煎魚肚等回謝宅享用。邊吹著冷氣邊喝著熱粥…幸福啊。

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18. It was noon time when we left the inn, and we happened to pass by “茶都里” teashop on our way out. Look how gorgeous this is – an iced matcha latte with white tapioca pearls, made with matcha from Ippodo, Kyoto. I recommend ordering it with “less sugar” or “minimal sugar” so you can taste more of the tea flavor, and there are also other choices like genmaicha, with optional red beans, rice dumplings…all looked yum.

出門時已經中午了,看到路人拿著一杯看起來像冰抹茶拿鐵的飲料,心裏想著 “啊我也好想來一杯啊” 的瞬間就在轉角看到了 “茶都裏”。毫不猶豫的進去點了一杯用京都一保堂抹茶做的 “禦抹茶拿鐵+白珍珠”,顔色太美了,而且很好喝喲(不想要太甜的話建議點少糖或微糖)。Menu上還看到有玄迷抹茶,可以加紅豆、白玉等等,好想馬上立刻現在再來一杯。

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19. Tainan feels like a very nostalgic, down-to-earth city, but there are actually also some very modern and stylish spaces, like this three-story design shop, or the B. B. Art space which we visited on our first day.

其實台南也不乏一些很新潮的空間和商店,比如這間三層樓的商店+展廳,以及前一天逛的B.B. Art 當代藝術+展演空間+咖啡+文化講堂。

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20. Black and white.

黑白。

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21. 林百貨 is a department store originally opened in 1932, though in 2014 it was remodeled to become a space selling products from the local cultural and creative industries. The building itself is gorgeous, and the rooftop shrine and cafe are also quite interesting.

也順道去了林百貨,是棟于1932年開幕的百貨公司,不過在2014年變成了一個買文創商品的空間。對裏面的商品沒太大興趣,不過建築本身很美,頂樓的露台神社和咖啡廳也很有意思。

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22. We also went to the ultra popular 蜷尾家 for some soft-serve ice-cream. Apparently on busy days it takes over an hour to get an ice-cream, though when we visited on a Monday afternoon there was no line at all. Flavors of the day were yogurt and black tea, though only black tea was left by the time we arrived. Was it good? Yes, but not worth the 1-hour wait.

也去了紅到台北的 “蜷尾家” 霜淇淋店,當天有優格和紅茶口味,不過我們到的時候只剩下紅茶口味了。據說鼎盛時期需要排一個小時的隊,但我們到訪的周一下午倒是很快就拿到霜淇淋了。好吃嗎?不錯啦,可是沒有好吃到排隊一個小時的程度。

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23. More tiny alleys…

沒有特別行程的我們繼續在大街小巷裏穿梭。

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24. Nostalgic things.

看到各種可愛、有人情味的風景。

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25. When we were leaving, the staff from Old House Inn gave us each a copy of this tiny map filled with lovely recommendations about Tainan. Totally a trick to lure us back! Well, coming back is almost obligatory, as we were not able to explore everything we wanted to explore, including the famed TCRC cocktail bar. See you again very soon, Tainan.

離開台南時,謝宅的工作人員給了我們一人一本老板親自手繪的 “老台南私房圖”。都要離開了才給,是要我們再回來的意思咯?也好,這次兩天一夜實在太短,還有好多地方沒有去呢,比如心裏一直念著的 TCRC 老屋酒館。快快把我再帶回台南吧。

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Addresses

吃面吧 Jai Mi Ba noodle bar
臺南市中西區保安路159之1號 / 159-1 Bao’an Road, West Central District, Tainan

清吉水果 fruit shop
臺南市中西區府前路一段294號 / 294, Section 1, Fuqian Road, West Central District, Tainan

謝宅 Old House Inn
oldhouseinn2008@gmail.com

阿卿杏仁茶 almond tea
臺南市中西區保安路82號 / 82 Bao’an Road, West Central District, Tainan

茂雄蝦仁肉圓 shrimp dumplings
臺南市中西區保安路46號 / 46 Bao’an Road, West Central District, Tainan

阿村牛肉湯 beef soup
臺南市中西區保安路41號 / 41 Bao’an Road, West Central District, Tainan

八寶彬圓仔惠 shaved ice
臺南市中西區國華街二段99號 / 99, Section 2, Guohua Street, West Central District, Tainan

阿明豬心冬粉 glass noodles with pig heart
臺南市中西區保安路72號 / 72 Bao’an Road, West Central District, Tainan

阿堂鹹粥 milk fish congee
臺南市中西區西門路一段728號 / 728, Section 1, Ximen Road, West Central District, Tainan

茶都裏 matcha latte
臺南市府前路一段357號 / 357, Section 1 Fuqian Road, West Central District, Tainan

B.B. Art
臺南市中西區民權路二段48號 / 48, Section 2 Minquan Road, West Central District, Tainan

林百貨 Lin Department Store
臺南市中西區忠義路二段63號 / 63, Section 2 Zhongyi Road, West Central District, Tainan

蜷尾家 softserve ice-cream
臺南市中西區正興街92號 / 92 Zhengxing Street, West Central District, Tainan

TCRC cocktail bar
臺南市中西區新美街117號 / 117 Xinmei Street, West Central District, Tainan

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Written by sugarednspiced

July 3rd, 2016 at 4:13 am

Posted in taipei

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