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[Shanghai 上海] Pierre Marcolini (2)

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Pierre Marcolini

Add: B1, K11 Shopping Mall, 300 Huaihai Middle Road
Tel: 63337318
Hours: 10am-10pm
Price: [chocolates] 20 rmb/pc [hot chocolate] 98 rmb/glass [plated desserts] 168 rmb
Visited: Nov 2016

You might remember my post back in August about Pierre Marcolini coming to Shanghai. His newest boutique / salon de thé recently opened on the B1 floor of K11 Mall, and it doesn’t only have chocolates and macarons for sale, but also a transparent chocolate lab that produces hot chocolate and plated desserts. On a cold winter day like this, a dose of chocolate really doesn’t sound like a bad idea.

8月份介紹過的比利時巧克力大師 Pierre Marcolini,大家都還記得嗎?(沒看過這篇文章的可以點擊這裡)。最近他在K11的B1開了正式店面,不僅有巧克力和馬卡龍櫃台,還多了一個可以看到透明工作坊的巧克力吧,提供冬日必備的熱巧克力以及現點現做的盤飾甜點。冷飕飕的冬日,來這裡暖暖胃吧。

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For those who didn’t read the last post, here’s a quick recap: Belgian chocolatier Pierre Marcolini, after winning the title of World Champion of Pastry in 1995, opened his first shop in Brussels, and subsequently in Paris, London, Tokyo, Monaco, Luxembourg etc. I first tasted his chocolates almost 6 years ago in Brussels, what a pleasant surprise to now find his shop in Shanghai.

給沒看過上一篇的人一個快速簡介:Pierre Marcolini 來自比利時,1995年在法國裏昂得到世界甜點冠軍之後,于布魯塞爾開了自己的第一家巧克力店,現在在巴黎、倫敦、東京、摩納哥等地方也都能看到他的作品。我在巴黎時因爲看的一個叫做 “Qui Sera Le Prochain Grand Pâtissier”(誰會成爲下一個甜點大師)的電視節目而認識了他,沒想到店居然開到了上海,有點令人開心。

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Compared to his previous pop-up store, the new boutique now also offers financiers baked fresh in Shanghai everyday (chocolates and macarons are flown in from Belgium).

跟之前二樓的 pop-up store 相比,新店裏多了我很喜歡的常溫蛋糕 financier 費南雪,這些是上海當地每天新鮮烘焙的。其他的巧克力和馬卡龍都是在比利時的巧克力工廠制作後空運而來。

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Behind the boutique are the chocolate bar and the chocolate atelier.

店鋪的後方,就是迷你巧克力工坊以及吧台。

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On a cold day like this, it’s obligatory to start with a glass of hot chocolate. Pierre Marcolini offers three varieties of hot chocolate, from which I chose “chocolat chaud & poivre de sichuan” (98 rmb). This hot chocolate with Sichuan pepper is just spicy enough to tingle the tongue, and elegantly presented in a glass instead of the usual mug.

天氣冷,先喝杯熱巧克力暖暖身子。Pierre Marcolini 提供三種熱巧克力,我選了 chocolat chaud & poivre de sichuan(98元),熱巧克力裏面加了四川花椒,微微刺激舌頭的辣度,恰到好處。在 Pierre Marcolini 喝熱巧克力頗有儀式感,服務員先將裝飾巧克力和玻璃杯放在客人面前,然後將現打熱的巧克力倒入杯中,最後撒上花椒粉。一口喝下去,從肚子暖到心裡。

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Chocolate decoration with pistachio, almond, roasted hazelnuts and edible flower.

裝飾的巧克力、開心果、杏仁、堅果酥、以及食用花,可以直接吃或著加到熱巧克力裡。

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If you’d rather drink something lighter, perhaps the cocoa infusion is a better choice. I tried the “infusion de cacao & gingembre” (88 rmb), a ginger-flavored hot infusion of cocoa, topped with milk chocolate, meringue, a slice of candied kumquat, petals, and blueberry. The cocoa flavor is actually very light, I mostly tasted ginger and a faint sweetness.

若不想要喝濃郁的熱巧克力,也可以選擇用可可豆外皮薄膜做的可可熱飲。我嚐了 infusion de cacao & gingembre(88元)生姜口味的可可熱飲,搭配裝飾的白巧克力、蛋白酥、金桔蜜餞、食用花、和藍莓。其實可可味不重,我喝到更多是生姜和淡淡的甜味。

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The infusion also comes in bottle forms, available for purchase.

Infusion 也有瓶裝版本,可以帶回家。

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A perfect accompaniment to the cocoa infusion would be the financiers (20 rmb/pc), which come in plain, chocolate, and caramel flavors. The texture is dense is moist, very delicious.

搭配可可熱飲可以嚐嚐他們的費南雪(20元/個),有原味、巧克力、焦糖三種經典選擇,口感紮實濕潤,風味濃郁,非常好吃。

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Inside the atelier is Alexandre Vandale, a chocolatier who has been working with Pierre Marcolini for five years. He is currently based in Shanghai to lead the local team, and a brief chat with him quickly revealed his passion for both chocolates and the Pierre Marcolini brand.

櫥窗裏的這位是跟隨了 Pierre Marcolini 五年的巧克力師傅 Alexandre Vandale,目前他暫駐上海,在工作坊裏帶領著團隊制作巧克力以及巧克力盤飾甜點。和他小聊了一下,感覺是位對巧克力以及 Pierre Marcolini 充滿熱情的年輕人呀,說起可可豆眉飛色舞的樣子很有感染力。

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On a side note, don’t these chocolate Russian dolls remind you of No-Face from Spirited Away?

題外話,這些巧克力做的俄羅斯娃娃有沒有讓你想到千與千尋裡面的無臉男…

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There are three plated desserts at the bar, and I first tried “sorbet a la framboise et coulis de chocolat maison” (168 rmb), composed of raspberry sorbet with a chocolate meringue, milk chocolate coulis with raspberry and blackcurrant, a slice of candied kumquat, caramelized pecan nut, milk chocolate discs, cremeux and petals.

巧克力吧目前有三款盤飾甜點,我先試了 sorbet a la framboise et coulis de chocolat maison(168元),由巧克力蛋白酥、覆盆子雪葩、巧克力醬、覆盆子和黑加侖果肉、柑橘蜜餞片、焦糖山核桃仁、牛奶巧克力片、黑巧克力圈、奶凍和花瓣組成。透過玻璃可以清楚看見 Alex 一步一步將甜點組裝起來。

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Oops, forgot to take a close-up before taking a bite.

吃了一口才想到該拍個近一點的特寫。

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I then tried “sorbet de mangue et ses deux coulis” (168 rmb), composed of mango sorbet, plain meringue, milk chocolate curls, caramel coulis, milk chocolate coulis, lime kumquat.

隨後嚐了 sorbet de mangue et ses deux coulis(168元),由蛋白酥、芒果雪葩、牛奶巧克力棒、焦糖醬、牛奶巧克力醬、金桔青檸組成。

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Both plated desserts focus on chocolates, but each has its refreshing counterpart (such as the raspberry sorbet) to balance the richness of chocolate. Each component was done well, though I personally would prefer some kind of cake/biscuit in the mix for a more satisfying combo.

兩款盤飾甜點雖然都以巧克力爲主角,不過各有清爽的部份(比如覆盆子雪葩)來平衡巧克力的膩,總體來說挺輕盈的。盤飾甜點的每個構成部份都做得精致,不過我個人覺得如果如果組合裏能再加入某種蛋糕,感覺會更豐富、更令人滿足。

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By the way, isn’t it lovely to be able to work in a transparent atelier like this so see what’s happening outside? Though, I suppose the chocolatiers get quite sick of people taking photos and videos of them all the time (reminds me of the days at Un Dimanche a Paris).

話說,有這樣的通透廚房真好,外面的動靜都可以一目了然(不過在裏面想必要忍受一直被拍照和錄影吧…讓我想到之前在 Un Dimanche a Paris 工作時的狀態。)

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As mentioned in the last post, Marcolini is one of the few chocolatiers who insists on doing the entire bean-to-bar process, meaning sourcing and roasting the cacao beans, milling them, kneading the resulting mixture and then heating and cooling the chocolate. This differentiates him from others who use couverture chocolate, which is chocolate that has already been processed by large-scale manufacturers. If you are in K11, do drop by his chocolate lab to take a quick peek.

上一篇介紹時有提過,Marcolini 是世界上少數幾個堅持自己做 bean-to-bar 的巧克力師傅之一,也就是說從可可豆的烘烤、磨碎、溶化、到最後制成消費者吃到口裡的成品,所有工序都在自己的可可工廠完成,而非像大部分市面上巧克力品牌直接和大廠商訂購已經處理過的巧克力。爲了讓消費者看到並了解巧克力的制作過程,他特地在上海店設計了一個小型巧克力工坊,路過的時候可以瞧瞧。

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Cocoa beans from all over the world, each with its distinct personality, which becomes further accentuated through the roasting process.

從世界各地精選而來的巧克力豆,每個的個性都截然不同,經過烘焙後更是明顯。

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The cocoa bean can be separated into bean and skin. The bean is used to make chocolate, and the skin can be used to make cocoa infusion.

巧克力豆打開後可以分成豆子和皮,豆子用來做成巧克力,皮則用來做成剛才喝過的可可熱飲。

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A chocolatier making chocolate decorations.

巧克力師在制作裝飾用的巧克力條。

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Photos from the happy Pierre Marcolini family, all over the world.

牆上貼著世界各地 Marcolini 團隊的照片,感覺是個溫馨的大家庭。

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This year, Pierre Marcolini also offers Christmas “crystal” chocolates in collaboration with Belgian designer Charles Kaisin, the shape and packaging design inspired by Mr. Maisin’s love for origami and geometric shapes. Beautiful, no? The boxes come in 15 pcs (318 rmb) and 36 pcs (718 rmb).

Marcolini 也特別推出了聖誕系列巧克力。今年的合作對象是比利時設計師 Charles Kaisin,巧克力的形狀和外盒包裝的靈感豆來自 Kaisin 先生對折紙與幾何模型的熱愛,很美麗呀。有15顆(318元)和36顆(718元)兩種包裝。

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The flavors are, from left to right: coffee gianduja, dried fruit praline, caramel vanilla hazelnut praline, pistachio gianduja, double dark chocolate, salted butter caramel.

從左至右的味道分別是:咖啡果仁牛奶巧克力、干果仁糖白巧克力、焦糖榛果仁牛奶巧克力、焦糖開心果仁白巧克力、雙層夾心軟糖黑巧克力,以及焦糖黑巧克力。

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Isn’t this festive-looking? Bring a box home this Christmas!

是不是聖誕氣氛十足呢?帶一盒回家吧!

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Pierre Marcolini

地址:淮海中路300號K11購物藝術中心B1
電話:63337318
營業時間:10am-10pm
價位:巧克力20元/顆、熱巧克力98元/杯、盤飾甜點168元/份
造訪日期:2016年11月

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Written by sugarednspiced

December 13th, 2016 at 11:38 am

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