Sugared & Spiced

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Cuivre

Address: 1502 Huaihai Zhong Lu, near Wulumuqi Lu / 淮海中路1502号, 近乌鲁木齐路
Tel: 6437 4219
Hours: [daily] 6:00pm~10:30pm [weekend brunch] 11:30am~2:30pm
Website: www.cuivre.cn
Price: [dinner] 250~350 RMB/person [brunch] 188 RMB/set

It’s hard to not notice the warm glow exuding from Cuivre’s windows if you pass by its storefront. This upscale French bistro, adorned with copper coils (very approrpiate given the name Cuivre, “copper” in French), leather chairs, woven wood/bamboo light fixtures, is a welcoming and slightly quirky place. But what attracts patrons most is Cuivre’s straight-forward and delicious Southern French fare created by Michael Wendling, former Executive Chef at Allure of Le Meridien Hotel.

Cuivre

Decor

Interior

Bikes converted into bar seating? Cool stuff, but they don’t look very comfortable.

Decor

iPad menu

Badoit

Bread in paper bag

We started with Soupe a la Truffe (118 RMB), chef Wendling’s signature dish from Allure. This emulsion of black truffle with white bean soup brought an amazing whiff of truffle aroma to the table – I was wrapped up in a haze of anticipation and appetite before anything hit even my tongue. It’s no surprise that this soup has been garnering oohs and aahs from patrons for years.

Soupe a la Truffe

Soupe a la Truffe

Terrine de Foie Gras (138 RMB) at Cuivre is prepared “au torchon” (in a towel), where a whole lobe of foie is wrapped in a towel and slow-cooked in a waterbath. The result, a satisfyingly thick slice,  is served with cherry chutney and toasted bread, the portion generous enough to feed 3 people. Excellent.

Terrine de Foie Gras

Next, Salade de Gesiers (78 RMB), a salad with warm duck gizzards and bacon in white balsamico and spicy dressing.

Salade de Gesiers

I’m not a big fan of baked snails, but Cuivre’s Les Escargots d’Antoinette (88 RMB) with garlic butter and tomato concasse was very well received by my fellow diners.

Les Escargots d’Antoinette

Then arrived the main courses. Le Cochon Noir (158 RMB), a 500g grilled black pig rack, stunned us with its sheer size. Even more memorable was its tender texture and flavor enhanced by a mustard and oregano juice – the taste still resonates in my head. If you have a group of three or more, be sure to try this dish.

Le Cochon Noir

Le Cochon Noir

Bavette a L’echalote (178 RMB), grilled Australian Wagyu beef flank served with shallot and red wine sauce, but very nicely done but less memorable than the pork (though this perhaps is because I only tried a bite of it).

Bavette a L’echalote

Bavette a L’echalote

Some dishes: seared lentil with the pork, and fries with the beef.

Side dishes: seared green lentil and fries

Homard (210 RMB) was a dish recommended to us by a foodie friend, and it did not disappoint. The lobster flavor was fully absorbed by the rice, each grain creamy and al dente at the same time. Next time I will have to try Cuivre’s other risotto, cooked with black truffles and shaved Iberico cheese.

Homard

In comparison to the appetizers and main dishes, Cuivre’s desserts were less impressive. The three desserts we tried were all decent, but none made a strong statement. First was Le Lingo (68 RMB), layers of black chocolate ingot and dacquoise biscuit topped with homemade vanilla ice-cream.

Le Lingo

Then, Creme Brulee (58 RMB).

Creme Brulee

Lastly, Le Yaourt (28 RMB), homemade vanilla yogurt with fresh diced mango.

Le Yaourt

Desserts notwithstanding, I was very happy with our dinner at Cuivre. If you haven’t tried it already, make a reservation for your next dinner – it’s a place worth frequenting.