[Shanghai 上海] Chop Chop Club

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Chop Chop Club

Add: 2F, Three on the Bund, 1 Zhongshandongyi Lu
Tel: 5308 5399
Hours: seats at 6:30-7pm and 8-8:30pm
Price: 400~500 rmb/person
Visited: Feb 2017

Please note that this was an arranged tasting.

If you’ve been eating and drinking in Shanghai, you should know the name Paul Pairet (PP). This French chef has created many climaxes in the F&B scene here since his arrival in 2005 – Jade on 36 at Shangri-la Pudong, Mr & Mrs Bund at Bund 18, and Ultraviolet, the all-immersive dining experience that ranked #24 on World’s 50 Best Restaurants (in addition to two Michelin stars) in 2016. His most recent project, titled “Chop Chop Club” in collaboration with Unico, just opened a week ago and immediately became (unsurprisingly) the hotspot on the bund.

常在上海吃喝的人,對 Paul Pairet (PP) 這個名字一定不陌生。這位法國大廚自 2005 年以來在上海創造了各種餐飲界的高潮,比如浦東香格裏拉的 Jade on 36、比如外灘 18 號的 Mr & Mrs Bund,比如名列 World’s 50 Best Restaurants、去年得到米其林二星的全方位感官餐廳 Ultraviolet。最近他和外灘三號的 Unico 合開了一家名爲 Chop Chop Club 的餐廳,開幕才一周,已(不意外地)成爲外灘上最受矚目的新寵兒。

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Decor at Unico has remained largely unchanged, the only conspicuous difference being the addition of two large electronic screens detailing the carvery menu, constantly updated with time, price, and pieces left. Like this:

“18:30|cote de boeuf|650/portion, 1300/whole”
“19:45|grilled seabass|140/portion, 700/whole”
“20:15|char-roasted chicken|180/portion, 320/whole”

You will notice, upon closer inspection, that the first few items had already been sold out. Why yes, the dishes here go fast, so chop chop and order whatever you fancy before they are snatched by other tables, otherwise there’s no choice but to come back another evening.

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走進餐廳一看,Unico 的布置沒有太大的改動,不過架起了兩座電子屏幕。屏幕上寫著每晚更新的 carvery 菜單以及每種料理出爐的具體時間、價格、以及所剩份數,比如:

“18:30|烤肉眼|單份650元,整份1300元”
“19:45|香烤鲈魚|單份140元、整份700元”
“20:15|炭火烤雞|單份180元、整份320元”

仔細一看,前面幾款都已 sold out?!沒錯,這裏的美食不等人, 店名中的 “chop chop” 在英文裏的意思就是 “快一點”,所以在屏幕上看到自己想點的菜別忘了趕緊和服務員下單,一旦賣光就要下次再來吃啦。

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There’s PP himself slicing away in the open kitchen.

開放式廚房裏有 PP 本人坐鎮,正切著剛烤好的多寶魚。

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Beside him is Franck Salati, the executive chef at Unico.

他旁邊是 Franck Salati,Unico 的行政主廚。

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As you can imagine, this is not the typical formal restaurant you’d expect on the bund, but a rather fun and casual one. Though the cuisine is described as “bistro-style”, both the service and food are levels above a typical bistro. The price point, you ask? It’s around 400~500 rmb/person, not so crazy considering the quality of food and the Three on the Bund location.

這種模式的餐廳,想也知道沒有刻板印象中外灘餐廳的拘謹感,取而代之的是輕松熱絡的氣氛。料理風格可以說是法式鄉村,不過裏面加了很多 PP 的巧思,雖然走的是小館子風格,不過從服務到食物本身都不是一般小館子的 level。人均 400~500 左右,這個價格在外灘三號,不誇張。

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While waiting for the carvery, we first started with some drinks and hors d’oeuvre. PP has designed a couple of cocktails in collaboration with the Unico bar, and they come in a sharing bottle like this. I tried Swing Spritz, which tickles the tongue with its spicy Sichuan pepper.

在等待 Carvery 料理的時候,可先來杯酒嚐點前菜。PP 和 Unico 的酒吧合作設計了幾款有趣的調酒,呈現的方式是可以自由取用的大瓶子。我試的這款 Swing Spritz 有不少香料的風味,花椒帶來的微辣感挺有意思。

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Though carvery is the main focus at Chop Chop Club, its starters and side dishes are equally impressive. There was a flurry of dishes that descended upon our table and I won’t go into details about each of them, but will label the ones I particular like with * in red, just for reference:

雖然說 carvery 肉類料理應該是 Chop Chop Club 的重頭戲,不過其實光是前菜和沙拉部份就讓人大滿足了。當晚試了太多菜就不一一解釋了,不過會把我特別喜歡的幾道用 “*” 以及紅字標注供參考:

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*Beef tartar essential – shallots, cream, crouton (120 rmb).

*主廚特制生牛肉塔塔、小洋蔥奶油、麵包片(120元)。

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Burnt-grilled eggplant, cumin, sesame (70 rmb).

火烤茄子、孜然、芝麻(70元)。

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Avocado crushed guacamole, herbs, toast (70 rmb).

牛油果色拉、混合香草、烤吐司(70元)。

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*Charred octopus, ginger, lime aioli (90 rmb).

*炭烤章魚、生姜檸香蛋黃醬(90元)。

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*Roasted pumpkin peasant soup, onion, panchetta (4~6 pax, 200 rmb), depending on availability.

*烤南瓜湯、洋蔥、pancetta 義式熏肉(4~6位,200元),每日限量供應。

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Potato salad, mustard aioli, herbs (60 rmb).

土豆色拉、芥末蒜泥蛋黃醬、混合香草(60元)。

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*Charred creamy cauliflower, parmesan (80 rmb).

*炭烤奶油花菜、帕嗎森芝士(80元)。

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Grilled beef tongue, lime, salt (180 rmb/300 g, 30 min wait).

火烤牛舌、青檸、海鹽(180元/300克,需要等 30 分鍾)。

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Bertha’s shitake (100 rmb), to be removed with scissors at the table by yourself.

必須自己用剪刀取下來的 Bertha’s 炭烤香菇(100元)。

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And while we were feasting on all of the above, the carvery items appeared one after another – roasted-grilled turbot, char-roasted chicken, vineyard chargrilled “cote de boeuf” – and each was paraded around the dining room before being sliced and served.

在吃前菜的同時,Carvery 的料理一樣樣出現了。切開之前,服務員會將整只的多寶魚、烤雞、牛肋眼端出來給客人們看一眼。如果你不幸沒能點到某一款想吃的料理,那也只能聞著那令人垂涎的香味,擦擦口水下次再來了。

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I was too full from the hors d’oeuvres and the sides dishes (couldn’t resist, they were all too yum), so we only tasted two items from the carvery, first the terrific*roasted-grilled XL turbot (260 rmb/portion, 1500rmb/whole). In case you don’t realize that the accompanying olive oil is a top quality E.V.O.O. selected from Spain, the bottle has been labeled “good olive oil” – just an example of the whimsical touches sprinkled here and there.

當晚前菜吃得太飽(不能怪我,真的非常美味),所以 carvery 的料理只選了兩樣,首先是*炭烤特大號多寶魚(260元/單份,1500元/整份)。搭配的橄榄油,怕你不知道是從西班牙選來的極品,特地在上面標注著 “good olive oil”,有 PP 一貫的小幽默。

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Charred oxtail teriyaki (170 rmb/portion, 450 rmb/whole).

日式照燒醬調味的烤牛尾(170元/單份,450元/整份)。

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And should you need a break from the meat, do try the equally well-executed veggie dishes here, such as this*scorched cucumber hoisin-peanut, yogurt (60 rmb).

吃肉吃膩的時候,不如來點清爽的蔬菜,比如這款我個人非常愛的*花生海鮮醬烤黃瓜、酸奶、薄荷(60元)。

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Pomelo ginger oil, grapefruit granita (80 rmb).

薑汁柚子、西柚刨冰(80元)。

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For desserts, we were first served the savarin chantilly, flambé Grand Marnier (200 rmb), a formidable one large enough to share between 4~6 people. Savarin is a rich yeast cake baked in a ring mold and typically soaked in rum or kirsch syrup, perfect for those looking for a sweeter and heavier ending.

甜點時間,服務員推薦了沙瓦林蛋糕、火焰橙味力嬌酒(200元),份量足以給 4~6 人分享。Savarin 沙瓦林是法式傳統甜點 baba au rhum 其中一種呈現方式,味道偏甜口味偏重,比較不能接受高甜度和酒精的人,慎點。

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Watermelon “rafaichi” & balsamico, olive oil sorbet (70 rmb). The watermelon itself wasn’t very sweet, but was an interesting one nonetheless in combination with the balsamic vinegar and olive oil sorbet.

葡萄酒醋拌西瓜、橄榄油冰霜(70元)。可能因爲不是季節的關系把,西瓜本身甜味不高,不過跟葡萄酒醋和橄榄油冰霜這個組合挺有趣的。

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My favorite dessert of the evening was*raspberries essential, Jerez, fresh cream, burnt butter (100 rmb). The acidity from fresh raspberries covered in Spanish sherry vinegar was balanced by a soothing crème fraîche with burnt butter, so simple yet so delicious.

*新鮮樹莓、西班牙雪莉醋、鮮奶油、熱黃油(100元),當晚個人最愛的甜點。新鮮樹莓裹上風味濃郁的西班牙雪莉醋,酸甜的滋味再搭配 crème fraîche 以及焦味黃油,如此簡單卻如此美味。

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Ended the meal with some madeleinettes minutes (40 rmb). I’m not sure about my two dinner dates, but I was so full and satisfied by this meal that I was quite sure I didn’t need food for another 3 days.

最後以現點現烤的迷你瑪德蓮蛋糕(40元)做收尾。當天和兩位朋友一起用餐,我不知道她們感覺如何,總之我自己是覺得三天內不用再進食了。極飽、極滿足。

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Chop Chop Club is only at its soft-opening stage and is reservation only for now (sorry no walk-ins please). I heard reservations are out the roof already, but it doesn’t hurt to call and check for yourself – it is a place well worth the trouble.

Chop Chop Club 是家非常值得拔草的新餐廳 - 前菜、主菜、甜點都出色,讓人不禁佩服 PP 的實力。目前餐廳只接受訂位不能 walk in,雖然聽說到月底都已訂滿,但還是自己打電話去確認最靠譜,說不定就給你訂上了。快去試試吧,chop chop!

Chop Chop Club

地址:中山東一路3號2樓
電話:5308 5399
營業時間:入座時間 6:30-7pm 和 8-8:30pm
價位:人均 400元 左右
造訪:2017年2月

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