Add: 1 Rue d’Eupatoria, 75020 Paris
Tel: 9 53 56 24 14
Hours: [Mon-Fri] 8~11:30pm
Price: €45~82/set menu
Tasted on: Feb 2014
A tiny little bistro in the 20th arrondissement. Wooden furniture, white washed and bare brick walls, dim lighting supplemented with candles – the ambience is cozy romantic with a small dose of hip. The two chefs in the kitchen, American-born UK-raised Michael Greenwold and Italian Simone Tondo, were previously at Le Chateaubriand and Rino (among others), and together they whip up some refreshing flavors that pleasantly surprise the palate.
The no-choice set menu is priced at €45 for four courses and €52 with the addition of cheeses. Wine pairing available at extra cost.
The meal started with oeuf, lentilles, algues (egg, lentils, and seaweed). Strangely I did not see any lentils in the bowl, but instead there was shell fish and a sprinkle of fish roe. A soothing dish if a little on the bland side.
The second dish, veau, celeri, grenade (beef, celery, pomegranate), was my favorite of the evening. The celery risotto had just the right amount of seasoning and not overly creamy, the beef perfectly pink and juicy, and the pomegranate seeds (seedless ones, thankfully) added a nice sweet tanginess to the mix.
Next was Ferrat, poireau, orange sanguine (fish from Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, leek, and blood orange), which came with chunks of smoked mozzarella. The combination of white fish with blood orange and smoked mozzarella was interesting if not immediately a hit.
Cheese plate. I had already forgotten their names, as always.
A very lovely pre-dessert, light panna cotta with crushed macadamia nuts.
Dessert was ricotta, argousier, cacahuète (ricotta, sea buckthorn, peanuts), drizzled with caramel sauce.
A very pleasant meal with small surprises here and there. Roseval would be a good place to come back to from time to time, just to see what creative dishes are coming out from that little kitchen.