Sugared & Spiced

pâtissière in paris, now shanghai

[Shanghai 上海] Bo Shanghai

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Bo Shanghai

Add: 6/F, Bund 5, 5 Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu
Tel: 5383 3656
Hours: 6:30-11pm
Price: set menu 1500 RMB + 10%, with wine pairing 2200 RMB + 10%
Visited: Oct 2016

Please note that this was an invited tasting arranged by the restaurant.

I haven’t been to Bo Innovation in Hong Kong, but I have heard quite a lot about this much-debated Three Michelin star restaurant and its self-proclaimed “demon chef” Alvin Leung. London-born, Canada-raised Alvin was originally an engineer, and after teaching himself how to cook, he opened Bo Innovation in his 40s and quickly won two Michelin stars (subsequently three stars, and the restaurant is also currently ranked #28 in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants). His brand new Bo Shanghai recently soft-opened, and before it officially launches at the end of this month, let’s go have a sneak peek.


沒有吃過香港的 Bo Innovation,不過對這家爭議不斷的米其林三星餐廳和其自稱 “廚魔” 的主廚 Alvin Leung 早有耳聞。倫敦出生、加拿大長大的 Alvin 本是工程師,自學廚藝後在40幾歲時開了自己第一家餐廳 Bo Innovation,並迅速得到了米其林得青睐(目前也名列 “世界最佳50餐廳” 第28位)。最近他在上海外灘五號的 Bo Shanghai 開始試運營,聽說月底要正式開幕,趕在那之前,先來嚐嚐。


Arriving on the 6th floor of Bund Five, I was led through Bistro Daimon (another new concept by Alvin) to the hidden Bo Shanghai. So it does seem like everything needs to be hidden these days…like Tai’an Table (which was recently awarded one Michelin star but had to close due to license issues) or Speak Low (a perpetually packed speakeasy bar by famed Japanese bartender Shingo Gokan). Bo Shanghai has just 26 seats (including 6 at the bar) with a nice view of the bund, though the view really isn’t the focus here…

抵達外灘五號的6樓,先經過 Bistro Daimon,在服務人員的引導下來到藏在牆後的 Bo Shanghai。現在的餐廳(比如剛得米其林一星就被迫關門的泰安門)和酒吧(像是穿過角落的書架方得入內的Speak Low),為何都流行藏起來?Anyway,進入 Bo Shanghai 後發現其實地方很小,位子就26個,夜景挺美的(不過來這裡吃飯,夜景應該不是重點哦…)


The two chefs at Bo Shanghai (DeAille and Simon, the two on the right in the photo below) are both Cantonese who grew up in Toronto, and before arriving in Shanghai they were working with Alvin for over two years in Bo Innovation.

Bo Shanghai 的兩位主廚(下圖右邊二位)是在多倫多長大的香港人,來上海之前在 Bo Innovation 工作了兩年多。女主廚 DeAille 說話非常客氣,有空時會很詳細的分享他們的料理故事。男主廚 Simon 說起話來很活潑,有種天然的喜感(喂,這樣說別人好嗎?)。我坐在吧台前用餐,邊吃邊和他們兩位聊天,學習了不少有趣的事情。


Bo Shanghai’s 10-course tasting menu (1500 RMB + 10%, with wine pairing 2200 RMB + 10%) is inspired by the traditional cuisine from China’s 8 different regions, in fusion with French techniques, and is completely different from the offerings in Hong Kong. To start, here are the amuse bouche: croissant with scallion oil filling, and a Chinese bun with black truffles and comté cheese.

Bo Shanghai 的菜色將來自于中國八大菜系的靈感與法國料理做了結合,呈現的是和香港店完全不同的創意。目前只有一個10道菜的套餐,價格 1500 RMB + 10%(配酒套餐 2200 RMB + 10%)。從開胃的 amuse bouche 和面包就已經能嚐到主廚們的融合概念,比如這個放了蔥油的可頌,以及加了黑松露和法國的 comté 芝士的中式花卷。


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December 12th, 2016 at 2:09 pm

[Kyushu] Garden Terrace Miyazaki

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Garden Terrace Miyazaki

Add: 247-18 Shimoharacho, Miyazaki, Miyazaki Prefecture
Tel: 0985-73-8888
Price: 37,000~57,000 yen/night
Visited: Oct 2016

Please note that this was a complimentary stay arranged by the hotel.

Our last stop in Kyushu was Miyazaki, where we stayed at a most beautiful and serene hotel designed by famed Japanese architect Kengo Kuma. Located on the site of a former factory, Garden Terrace Miyazaki is sheltered by a timber canopy, and entering its bamboo premises automatically imbues one with a sense of tranquility. How did I find out about this low profile hotel, you ask? Well, a friend had stayed at Garden Terrace Nagasaki (also designed by Kengo Kuma) on a recent trip and really loved it, and after doing some research I found out that it has a sister hotel in Miyazaki, and decided to give it a try…




Upon entering the hotel, we were first left upstairs to the second floor lounge for check-in. This space also functions as a club lounge for hotel guests, with complimentary snacks, drinks, and a small library.


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December 12th, 2016 at 12:09 pm

[Tokyo 東京] Wall / CoSTUME NATIONAL

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Add: CoSTUME NATIONAL Aoyama Complex 1F,5-4-30 Minami Aoyama
Tel: +81-3-5774-1311
Hours: 12pm-12am
Price: cocktails ~2200 yen
Visited: Oct 2016

A Japanese friend took me to this bar in Omotesando, and I honestly couldn’t tell that this is a bar even after arriving at its door. Apparently, it’s hidden behind this white wall.



Entering the bar through the slender (and very discreet) door, we arrived at Wall. It’s an elongated space brought alive by the gorgeous, lush vertical garden behind the bar, put together by famed French artist / vertical garden designer Patrick Blanc. I have always liked his works in Paris, and it was quite a pleasant surprise to run into him again in Tokyo.

推了中間那道細門入內,竟是另一番天地。狹長的空間裏最引人注目的是吧台後方整面的植物牆。豐盛的、綠油油的,很美。打造這片植物牆的是法國藝術家/垂直花園名設計師 Patrick Blanc,以前就非常喜歡他在巴黎幾個作品,在東京能碰上真是挺令人驚喜的。



Upon being seated, we were first served the halve of a fresh fig. Apparently it’s typical in Japanese bars to be served a small bite like this before or along with your first drink.

Wall 的小點心是半個新鮮無花果,很甜美。在日本,似乎很多酒吧就會提供這樣一款小食,通常在第一杯酒之前或同時送上。


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December 7th, 2016 at 1:09 am

[Tokyo 東京] Osoba no Koga おそばの甲賀

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Osoba no Koga おそばの甲賀

Add: 2-14-5 Nishi Asabu, Minato-ku, Tokyo
Tel: +81-3-3797-6860
Hours: 11am-3pm, 5-9:30pm
Price: 1,000~5,000  yen
Visited: Oct 2016

For a casual lunch, a friend took me to a small soba noodle shop called Osoba no Koga, located in the Nishi Asabu area. It’s not a place tourists would specifically look for, but for a light and authentic meal, it was perfect.

這次東京之旅頗喜歡的小店之一是日本朋友帶我去的おそばの甲賀(Osoba no Koga), 位于西麻布一帶。小小的一家蕎麥麵店,絕不是觀光客會特地尋過去的那種地方,進來吃一碗麵,舒服。




We first tried a bowl of chilled soba with sea urchin (2,550 yen). It was a simple but most delicious combination of soba noodles, sauce, some dried seaweed, sea urchin, and a dab of wasabi – something I could go on eating without getting sick of.



We also tried a bowl of nanban chicken soba noodles (1,400 yen), served hot with soup. Unfortunately this was less of a hit for us, mostly because the noodles are too soft after being soaked in the hot soup. If you visit this little noodle shop, go for the sea urchin soba.





地址:港區西麻布 2-14-5
營業時間:11am-3pm, 5-9:30pm
價位:1,000~5,000 日幣

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December 7th, 2016 at 12:40 am

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[Tokyo 東京] Sakurai Tea 櫻井焙茶研究所

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Sakurai Tea 櫻井焙茶研究所

Add: 5F Spiral Building, 5-6-23 Minami Aoyama, Tokyo
Tel: +81-3-6451-1539
Hours: 11am-11pm
Price: [tea] 1,600 yen [tea set] 4,500 yen+
Visited: Oct 2016

For those interested in Japanese tea, Sakurai could be a worthwhile place to visit while Tokyo. Located on the 5th floor of Spiral Building in the ultra stylish Minami Aoyama area, Sakurai is a modern Japanese tea house founded by Mr. Shinya Sakurai, an ex-Yakumo Saryo and Higashiya who expands his craft to not just tea, but also pairing with food and alcohol.

喜歡日本茶的人,可以來試試櫻井焙茶研究所。這家位于スパイラルビル五樓的茶館,是曾經在八雲茶寮Higashiya 擔任經理的櫻井真也于 2014 年獨立出來開的店,專注于茶和食物、以及茶和酒的結合。


The shop, also designed by Simplicity Studio, fuses traditional Japanese design with modern metallic vibes. The counter displays a range of beautiful teaware, and beyond the counter is a tea roasting area.

店裏融合了傳統日式風格與現代金屬的摩登感,看得出來也是 Simplicity 設計的。入口處的櫃台上漂亮的茶具一字排開,透過玻璃可以看到烘培茶葉的區域。


On the other side of the counter is the tea room. Tea and tea desserts are available a la carte as well as in sets (gyokuro, blended tea, hojicha, bancha, matcha, etc., 4,500~6,900 yen/set) and alchoholic versions like encha gin, hojicha rum, matcha beer (1,200~1,600 yen), which all sound quite interesting.



The tea room is small, with only 8 seats around the bar. I arrived during the late afternoon, so I can only imagine how beautiful the space must be during the day with natural light spilling in from the large windows. Upon being seated, I was handed presented a selection of tea leaves to choose from, accompanied by clear explanations about their origin, aroma, and flavor.



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December 6th, 2016 at 12:42 pm

[Tokyo 東京] Rai-an 雷庵

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Rai-an 雷庵

Add: 1F 董友ビル, 1-4-13 Shibuya, Tokyo
Tel: +81-3-5778-3379
Hours: 11:30am-3pm, 5:30pm-11pm
Price: 2,000~4,000 yen/person
Visited: Oct 2016

Located in Shibuya, Rai-an is a newly-opened soba noodle shop with a beautiful modern design: floor-to-ceiling windows, open kitchen, and an atelier to display the making of soba. The soba noodles delicious, and all the other small dishes we tried were surprisingly yum as well.



Such as the soba tofu with sea urchin (900 yen).



Japanese omelet (800 yen).



Ginko nut sakura shrimp tempura (1,100 yen).



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December 5th, 2016 at 7:23 am

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[Tokyo 東京] Mahakara Ureshii Purin マハカラ うれしいプリン

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Mahakara Ureshii Purin マハカラ うれしいプリン

Add: 1-17-5 Aobadai Meguro Tokyo
Tel: +81-50-5590-4510
Hours: 11am-6pm
Price: ~350 yen/pudding
Visited: Oct 2016

I was strolling along the Meguro River the other day and passed by a super cute pudding shop called “Mahakara Ureshii Purin”. It’s a tiny store with not much other than a kitchen and a counter, displaying a myriad of delicious-looking puddings in glass jars – matcha, coffee, pumpkin, chestnut, yam, cheese…though eventually I went for the classic custard pudding with caramel. Sitting on the bench in front of the shop, eating the soft and fragrant pudding by the spoonful…what a lovely, lovely neighborhood vibe.

某天在目黑河邊路過一家可愛的布丁店 “マハカラ うれしいプリン”。店面小小的,除了廚房和櫃台之外幾乎沒有空間放其他東西,冰櫃裡排列著各種誘人口味的布丁 - 抹茶、咖啡、南瓜、栗子、番薯、起司…不過最後還是選擇了經典焦糖雞蛋布丁。店門口放了幾張椅子,坐在街邊吃著香濃柔滑的布丁、邊感受著中目黑悠閑的步調,很是惬意。




Mahakara Ureshii Purin uses a high grade Japanese eggs from Hyogo Prefecture called “日本一こだわり卵” (kodawari tamago), and doesn’t add any preservatives in their pudding.

マハカラ うれしいプリン的布丁裡完全無添加防腐劑,而且使用的是兵庫縣產的 “日本一こだわり卵” 高級蛋,格外香濃。


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December 5th, 2016 at 6:46 am

[Tokyo 東京] Mikawa Zezankyo みかわ是山居

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みかわ是山居 Mikawa Zezankyo

Add: 1-3-1 Fukuzumi, Koto-ku, Tokyo
Tel: +81-3-3643-8383
Hours: 11am-1:30pm, 5-9:30pm
Price: [lunch] 11,340 yen+ [dinner] 18,360 yen
Visited: Oct 2016

I’ve been hearing about Mikawa Zezankyo for years, and finally got to taste this legendary tempura restaurant on a recent trip to Tokyo. Chef owner Tetsuya Saotome entered the trade at the age of 14, and has been making tempura for over half a century. Along with Jiro Ono (a.k.a. the god of sushi) and Kanejiro Kanemoto (the god of eel), Tetsuya Saotome (the god of tempura) is one of the three major representatives of Edomae cuisine. On a side note, apparently Jiro Ono and Tetsuya Saotome are good friends, and often visit each other’s restaurants.




Mr. Saotome moved into this current house in 2009. The first floor is the restaurant, the 2nd and 3rd floor are exhibition spaces, and the 4th floor is where he lives. The house is filled with artworks, and even the tableware used by the guests are ceramics made by famed contemporary artisans. Fun fact: what looks like a huge hat on top of the work station is actually an exhaust modeled after the shape of the “Borsalino” hat Mr. Saotome wears when he goes out.

早乙女先生在2009年搬到了現在這座小房子,一樓是餐廳,二、三樓是客室與展覽廳,四樓是他的家。這整棟房子裏都是藝術品,連餐具也是當代名家所作的珍貴陶瓷器。下圖工作台上方長的像大帽子的吸油煙機,是按照早乙女先生平時外出時會帶的意大利品牌 “Borsalino” 黑色禮帽特別定制的,有點可愛。


Having devoted almost his entire life to tempura, Mr. Saotome has developed a most particular way to make tempura, from the coating to the  frying process. Apparently he varies the coating and frying methods according to each ingredient. He may look stern while he’s busy at work, but is actually very friendly when he starts chatting.



The word “mikawa” in kanji is “三河”, an area of Nagoya in which Mr. Saotome was born. On the menu, “mikawa” is written in another form of kanji “美川”, which literally means a beautiful river, signifying Mr. Saotome’s vision to serve tempura dishes one after another, like the flow of a river, in front of his guests. For lunch, one can choose the lunch course (11,340 yen) or the omakase course (18,360 yen), the difference being that the omakase course includes uni and matsutake mushrooms.

“みかわ”(mikawa)的漢字是 “三河”,是位於名古屋的一個區域 ,也是早乙女先生的出身地。菜單上寫的則是日語發音相同的 “美川”,表達早乙女先生的意境:讓天婦羅料理如同美麗的流淌的河水一樣一品一品呈現在客人面前。我在中午到訪,有御夕食コース(11,340 日幣)和おまかせコース(18,360日幣)這兩種可以選擇,其中的不同是おまかせコース包含了海膽以及松茸這兩樣高級食材。話說,菜單上的圖示都是早乙女先生自己畫的呢。



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December 4th, 2016 at 4:14 am

[Tokyo 東京] Higashiya

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Higashiya Ginza

Add: 2F Pola Bldg Ginza, Chuo Ku / 中央区銀座 1-7-7 ポーラ銀座ビル 2F
Tel: +81-3-3538-3240
Hours: [Tue-Sat] 11am-10pm [Sun] 11am-7pm
Price: [tea] 1,400~1,500 yen
Visited: Oct 2016

My favorite spot for Japanese tea and sweets on this trip to Tokyo was Yakumo Saryo, but if your itinerary is too rushed and don’t have time to venture out to this neighborhood, perhaps you can try Higashiya, another Japanese sweets establishment by the same designer Shinichiro Ogata, conveniently located in Ginza. Higashiya was established with the goal of creating modern wagashi (Japanese sweets) that can be enjoyed on a daily basis, hence the name “higashiya” (“hi” means day in Japanese).

如果你在東京的行程很趕,沒有時間到目黑區去尋找八雲茶寮的話,那可以試試同樣出自緒方慎一郎之手,位于銀座的 Higashiya。Higashiya 原本是家沿著目黑川的小店,品牌的初衷是將和菓子帶回到人們日常生活中,做出 “每天吃也不會膩的果子”,因此名爲 Higashiya(日菓子屋)。


The Ginza shop opened in 2009, composed of a boutique space and a 40-seat tea salon. A white canvas noren hangs at the entrance, and walking through it is like entering another space, leaving all earthly worries out behind. Unfortunately photos are not allowed inside the shop, so here’s a quick sneak peek. If you would like to see more, take a look at their beautiful website.

2009 年開幕的 Higashiya 銀座店位于ポーラ銀座ビル的二樓,首先穿過似乎可以把煩惱擋在門外的布簾,先看到的是和菓子的櫃台,往裏走才是茶室。店員表示緒方先生不希望客人在店裏拍照,所以在這裏就沒有太多照片可以放,喜歡的話可以上官網瞧瞧。不過總之茶館裏的裝潢風格結合了現代和日式傳統,桌椅均為木質,沒有太過華麗的擺飾,簡單大方。



In addition to seasonal desserts, Higashiya offers a diverse selection of Japanese sweets and original tableware, 30 varieties of tea, as well as lunch menus and afternoon tea using seasonal ingredients.



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November 24th, 2016 at 3:20 am

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[Recipe] Fig Almond Tart with Raspberries

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It’s almost the end of Fall, and before the fig season is officially over, it is absolutely imperative to make a fig almond tart. Here’s a simple recipe that can be done at home, composed to a shortbread tart shell, homemade fig jam, almond cream, and fresh figs. It’s pretty, and it’s delicious.



It’s not always the case to add raspberries to fig tarts, but I thought it’d be nice to add a bit of acidity, especially when pairing the tart with a glass of Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque Edition Automne 2005, a champagne I recently discovered at a tasting event. For pairing with this charming rose champagne, I added some fresh raspberries, and increased the dose of lime juice in the jam recipe for extra acidity.


So, let’s get started.

For the tart shell:

butter…48g / powdered sugar…30g / eggs…19g / ground almond…10g / salt…0.5g / flour…80g


1. Separately, sift all powders.


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November 18th, 2016 at 7:22 am