Sugared & Spiced

pâtissière in paris, now shanghai

Some thoughts / 一些想法

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I haven’t written about this on Sugared & Spiced yet, but it’s been 6 months since I got back to working full time in a professional pastry kitchen.

還未在Sugared & Spiced上寫過這件事情,不過我回到專業甜點廚房全職工作,已經六個月了。

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A lot of people were surprised about this decision. It certainly seemed like I was living the ideal life – teaching pastry classes and writing on Sugared & Spiced was the perfect combination, and I also had the flexibility to travel whenever I wanted. Why would I quit this to go back to the professional kitchen, where it’s nothing but intense physical work, and getting paid only a fraction of what I was earning working for myself?

Because that, for me at the time, was too comfortable.

很多人對我再次回到廚房工作感到驚訝。之前教教課、寫寫文章,每天做著自己喜歡的事情,隨時都能來場說走就走的旅行。這樣隨心所欲的狀態如此理想,爲何要重回廚房做一份體力活、而且薪水只有之前幾分之一的工作?

因爲這個狀態對當時的我來說,太舒適安逸了。

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I was working in Paris for about three years, which is very short as far as a patissier career goes. Sure, what I had in my pocket was adequate for teaching classes and perhaps even for opening a shop, but it didn’t feel “enough”. For the past two years in Shanghai, I was making pastries mostly for classes, which were too simple compared to the ideas I had in my mind. So I started to look for opportunities that can allow me to, simply put, level up.

我在巴黎學習工作幾年時間,以一位甜點師來說,其實還非常資淺。雖然所擁有的技巧和知識足以開課甚至開店,但自己覺得還不夠。離開巴黎,回到上海的這兩年雖然做著甜點,但以教課爲主,內容有很多限制,無法做出心裏所有想做的東西。如果有一個平台可以讓我再多學習、多精進、多探索,那我會抓住這個挑戰自己的機會。

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So when such an opportunity presented itself, I pushed myself to grab it.

所以當這個機會出現時,我決定把自己再推出去一次。

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January 7th, 2018 at 2:15 pm

[Shanghai 上海] Oha Eatery 知覺食堂

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Oha Eatery

Add: 23 Anfu Road
Tel: 13621647680
Hours: 11am-2pm, 5-10pm
Price: lunch 70-120 RMB, dinner 200-300 RMB
Visited: Jan 2018

Oha Cafe, the newest addition to the ever-so-popular Anfu Road, is a coffee window brought to you by the folks behind Bar No. 3. It’s small but stylish, pairing warm wood with a sliver of bright blue, easily attracting passerby like myself.

某天在安福路上閒逛時發現了一家新的咖啡店,叫做 Oha Cafe。說它是咖啡店吧,其實比較像是個咖啡窗口外加兩個小座位。門面就這麽點大,溫暖的木頭色和一絲亮眼的藍,給原本就已相當洋氣的安福路又添了份時髦感。

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Latte in hand, I was about to walk away…then I noticed that there’s something more.

買了杯拿鐵准備走人的時候,發現這 cafe 後面似乎另有乾坤…

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In fact, there’s whole restaurant nestled quietly just behind the cafe!

原來在小小咖啡窗口後面,還有一間 Oha Eatery 知覺食堂。

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January 18th, 2018 at 2:48 am

[Shanghai 上海] Chez Maurice (2)

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Chez Maurice

Add: 泰安路50號2樓
Tel: 6229 9668
Hours: Mon-Fri 5:30~10:30pm, Sat-Sun 11:30am~2:30pm, 5:30~10:30pm
Price: average spend 400 RMB/person
Visited: Nov 2017

I’ve written about this French bistro on Tai’an Road when it first opened, and in the blink of an eye it’s been almost two years, oh my. Chez Maurice is known for their excellent execution of traditional French charcuterie taught by Monsieur Maurice , a French grandpa whose family has been in the meat business for generations. This time though, I came specifically to try their new winter dishes.

泰安路上的這家法式小館剛開幕不久時我曾經寫過,一轉眼也快要兩年了。這裏出名的是由法國老先生Maurice手把手教出來的charcuterie肉類料理,聽說最近推出了新的冬季料理,找了機會過來嚐嚐。

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Laguiole steak knives, how very conveniently placed.

既然是吃肉的地方,好刀子少不了。Laguiole的牛排刀,很豪邁地直接插在桌面上。

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Carpaccio de Chevreuil (108 RMB), venison carpaccion with horseradish aioli, parsley, pine nuts, and black truffle. Beautiful color and delicious gamey flavor.

前菜的生薄鹿肉 (108 RMB) 擺盤漂亮,鹿肉質細嫩帶有野味,搭配山葵醬、歐芹、松仁和黑松露,好好好。

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January 11th, 2018 at 8:53 am

[Shanghai 上海] Pain Chaud L’Avenue

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Pain Chaud L’Avenue

Add: L115 L’Avenue, 99 Xianxia Lu
Tel: 3212 5150
Hours: 8am-7pm
Price: average spend 60 RMB
Visited: Dec 2017

Even when it was just a lone shop on Yongkang Road, Pain Chaud had always been one of my favorite French bakeries in Shanghai. Now, they have opened a second location in L’Avenue, that luxury shopping mall in Hongqiao by the LVMH Group – closer to home, even better.

Pain Chaud 還只有一家單店在永康路時,我就挺喜歡這家法國面包店了。今年他們在 L’Avenue 尚嘉中心開了新店,離我家更近,時不時會和朋友約在這裏吃早餐。

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I’m usually not a fan of shops and cafes located inside malls, but this particular Pain Chaud is set by the street side, nicely designed with plenty of greens and natural light. Like very much.

其實一般對在購物中心裏的店沒什麽好感,但是這家Pain Chaud沿街的位置非常明亮、設計風格和永康路店相比更精致一些,我很喜歡。

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“Pain Chaud” literally means “hot bread”, and it’s true that the shop is always stocked with freshly baked baguettes, croissants, red wine fig rolls, and brioches…

“Pain Chaud” 的意思是 “熱騰騰的面包”,店裏的確總是堆滿著新鮮出爐的法棍、可頌、紅酒無花果面包、奶油面包、裸麥面包…讓人目不暇給。

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January 11th, 2018 at 4:46 am

[Shanghai 上海] RAC Bar

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RAC Bar

Add: Building 14, No. 322 Anfu Road
Tel: N/A
Hours: Mon- Wed, Sun 8am-6pm, Thu-Sat 8am-11pm
Price: 35~98 RMB/crepe
Visited: Feb 2017

RAC Bar, brought to us by the same team behind RAC Coffee, opened a few weeks ago in a courtyard on Anfu Road and immediately became one of the hottest spots in Shanghai.

RAC Bar開在安福路上的一個庭院裏,和巷口的RAC Coffee由同一個團隊打造。雖然不是街邊的位置,但這家開幕才兩周的小餐廳已經成爲附近食客們的最愛。

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It’s a simple space of cement grey and warm wood, punctuated with a beautiful dark green. Large windows, lots of natural light.

先看一下餐廳設計。RAC Bar簡潔的空間由水泥灰和木頭色爲主,其中穿插著漂亮的深綠色,大片的玻璃窗讓店內通透感十足。

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A nice cup of latte (35 RMB) first, straight from RAC coffee.

在窗邊的位子坐下來,點一杯拿鐵 (35 RMB)。咖啡由RAC Coffee窗口送過來,味道很好。

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January 11th, 2018 at 2:04 am

[Shanghai 上海] Jeju Izakaya 倍樂濟州居酒屋

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Jeju Izakaya by Belloco

Add: 1095 Yuyuan Road
Wechat: jejuizakaya
Hours: 6pm~1am
Price: 300~350 rmb/person
Visited: Dec 2017

Jeju Izakaya hides itself in a non-descriptive building on Yuyuan Road. If you didn’t come looking for it, you probably wouldn’t notice its sign on the floor, so discreet that it almost blends into the background…

Jeju Izakaya藏在愚園路上一棟不起眼的小房子裏,若不是專門爲它而來,肯定不會注意到地上那塊幾乎融入到背景裏的門牌…

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But go ahead and slide open the heavy metal door to discover this ultra hip Korean izakaya*. The tiny space is not much more than an open kitchen and eight seats around the bar. Reservation must be done via Wechat, and so far it looks like every seat is booked at least two weeks in advance.

*Jeju Izakaya is owned by the same company that operates Belloco and Professor Lee in K 11.

拉開厚重的鐵門,赫然發現裏面是家氣氛極酷的的韓式居酒屋*。小小的空間裏只有圍繞著吧台的八個位子,每晚都是客滿狀態,必須通過微信訂位,而且基本上都只能約到兩周後9點以後的位子了。

*Jeju Izakaya和Belloco以及K 11裏的Professor Lee是同一個老板經營的喲。

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We were first served a sip of house wine upon being seated. The drinks menu lists a good number of whisky and Korean soju high ball options, as well as some beer and wine choices. On another note, the music here is absolutely dope.

入座後,老板會先爲客人倒上一小杯招待的紅酒。酒單上有很多威士忌以及韓國燒酒的highball的選擇,也有一些啤酒和葡萄酒。Btw,這裏的音樂好聽,大大加分 🙌🏼 。

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January 10th, 2018 at 10:15 am

[Shanghai 上海] MAGGIEMAO 蔓茂花廊

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MAGGIEMAO The Floral Art

Add: 233 Anfu Road
Tel: 3363 7113
Wechat: mmartsh
Hours: 12-7pm (closed on Mon)
Website: www.maggiemaostudio.com

MAGGIEMAO, a floral gallery hidden in an old apartment building on Anfu Road, is one of those extraordinarily beautiful spaces that has me snapping photos non-stop the moment I step in.

我在安福路上,發現了隱藏在老公寓裏的 MAGGIEMAO蔓茂花廊。這是個會讓人忍不住一直想按下快門的美麗空間,至少我是這樣,在踏入第一步時就無法自拔了。

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Plants are placed on the shelves, on the tables, on the floors, meticulous enough to seem arranged, yet casual enough to retain some of their natural wildness. Sharp geometric lines of the metal shelves contrast beautifully with the sensuous curves of the flowers and leaves, a lovely balance.

簡潔的空間裏,幾個金屬櫃子的幾何線條添了份俐落剛硬,和植物自然柔美的曲線形成了微妙的對比。花和綠葉雖是修剪過的,但仍帶些自然的野性,時而隨興時而刻意地散置在櫥櫃、桌面、地上。

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January 9th, 2018 at 9:37 am

[Sri Lanka 斯里蘭卡] Amangalla 安縵伽拉

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Amangalla

Add: 10 Church Street, Fort, Galle, Sri Lanka
Tel: +94 91 223 3388
Website: www.aman.com/resorts/amangalla
Price: 725 USD/night and up
Visited: Oct 2017

It was such a pleasant surprise to discover that there is an Aman property in Galle, Sri Lanka, where I would be attending a wedding. Set within the ramparts of the Galle Fort, Amangalla is part of this more than 400-year-told UNESCO World Heritage Site. I immediately reserved for three nights, eager to experience living on this historical site…but a few days before departure, I received an email from the hotel saying that their AC system broke down. Uh oh.

一向非常喜歡安缦集團的我,這次在規劃斯里蘭卡行程時驚喜地發現加勒城牆內有家Amangalla安缦伽拉,屬于聯合國世界遺産地的一部分。預定了三晚,滿心期待入住這座充滿韻味的古建築,沒想到在啓程的幾天前突然收到來自安缦伽拉的郵件,非常抱歉地通知說酒店的冷氣壞了…诶?!

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The hotel proposed three options: 1) Move my reservation to Amanwella (stunning property, but two hours away from Galle and too far for the wedding festivities), 2) Reserve a boutique hotel in Galle on my behalf (but…but Aman!), and 3) Provide a small portable AC in the room (Is that going to work given the intense humidity of Southeast Asia?) Hmm…tough one.

In the end I decided to stay with Amangalla, and…what a charming stay it turned out to be!

酒店給了三個方案:1)改訂至另一家安缦酒店Amanwella(車程兩小時,這次去參加婚禮不方便),2)幫我預定加勒另一家精品酒店(可是就想住安缦呀!),以及 3)在房內提供移動型小冷氣(東南亞熱帶天氣,小冷氣有用嗎?)…唔,棘手啊。

雖然有點擔心沒有正常冷氣系統要如何承受東南亞熱帶的天氣,不過考慮後決定照原計劃入住安缦伽拉。結果,渡過了充滿驚喜的三天美好時光,真慶幸來了…

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Galle’s tumultuous history spans more than 400 years, and Amangalla, nestled within its fort, reflects this deep history. Built in 1684 and once used as an army command center, it was later renovated to become the New Oriental Hotel in 1865. Its last owner, Ms. Nesta, sold the property to Aman on her 90th birthday, with all but one request – that the only house on the property to be kept for her husband, who, to this date, still travels to Galle from London once in a while.

斯里蘭卡曾被葡萄牙、荷蘭、英國殖民,而安缦伽拉也體現了這數百年來的曆史文化變遷。始建于1684年的建築曾作爲殖民地駐軍的指揮部,後來于1865年被改建成了新東方酒店(New Oriental Hotel),最後一任主人Nesta女士在她90歲生日這天把幾代相傳的房産賣給了安缦集團,唯一要求是要將建築群內的獨棟別墅留給她先生Rainey(如今他住在倫敦,寒冬時都會回來度假呢)。

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November 9th, 2017 at 3:05 pm

[Shanghai 上海] Little Catch x Alter

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Little Catch x Alter

Add: L116, 245 Madang Road (Xintiandi Style)
Tel: 5352 0027
Hours: 10am – 9:30pm
Price: 70 rmb + / poke bowl
Visited: Sep 2017

Shanghai has been raining cats and dogs for the past week (and it looks like another few days of thunderstorm ahead of us), so I decided to post about something very sunny: Little Catch Xintiandi just finished renovation, and other than being a pretty place, it’s also offering new poke flavors as well as smoothie bowls that will brighten up the most sour of moods.

眼看上海這一周都是連續暴雨,決定寫篇陽光內容:Little Catch 新天地店裝修完畢,除了地方漂亮之外,還推出了新口味的 poke bowl 波奇飯,以及光看到心情就會缤紛 smoothie bowl 果昔。下一個天晴的日子,就去這裏吧!

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I’ve been wanting to write about Little Catch for a while. Its first location – Little Catch Fishmonger – opened on Wulumuqi Road in 2015 and, with its introduction of the Hawaiian poke, it became an instant hit. The shop was tiny, so people either got takeouts or sit out in front on tiny stools, each happy with a bowl of poke in hand.

喜歡 Little Catch 已經好一陣子了。它的一店于 2015 年開在烏魯木齊中路上,名爲 Little Catch Fishmongers。雖然是家海鮮店,但完全不是大家想象中魚腥味彌漫的感覺,乾淨、清新的店面小巧可愛,總是很多人坐在外面的小凳子上吃著 poke bowl,氣氛輕松隨意。

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The shop was started by Wen & Jiayi, two sisters who were born in Singapore, raised in Hong Kong, and educated in the U.S. Conveniently, their family has been in the seafood business for a while, which gives the sisters excellent access to good seafood at fair prices.

Little Catch 的老板姐妹花 Wen & Jiayi 來自新加坡,在香港長大、美國念書(後來發現我在巴黎的室友居然是 Jiayi 在紐約大學的同學,#這世界有點小)。兩姐妹的家族做的就是海鮮生意,正好可以給 Little Catch 提供新鮮而且價格合宜的海鮮。

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Due to the overwhelming success of Little Catch Fishmonger, they followed with a much more spacious Little Catch Poke Cafe on Taixing Road, and subsequently expanded the first shop as well. Their newest location, a collaboration with clothing boutique Alter, is on the first floor of Xintiandi Style (originally Spread the Bagels). There are two sun-dappled outdoor seating areas, picnic tables, blue and white beach umbrellas…it’s like starting summer all over again.

由于一店非常成功,她們又在泰興路上開了非常寬敞的二店 Little Catch Poke Cafe,也隨即拓寬了一店,讓客人們可以更輕松更舒服地吃碗 poke bowl。而最近才重新裝修完成的三店 Little Catch x Alter 位于新天地時尚一樓街邊的位置(原 Spread the Bagels),是和服飾店 Alter 的合作。陽光滿布的露天座位、野餐桌、藍白相間的海灘陽傘…在這裏坐上片刻,感覺又回到了夏天。

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September 26th, 2017 at 11:53 pm

[Shanghai 上海] O.P.S.

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O.P.S.

Add: No. 1, Alley 117, Taiyuan Road
Tel: 15618060636
Hours: 10am-6pm
Price: 25-48 RMB/coffee
Visited: Sep 2017

I biked by a tiny cafe on Taiyuan Road the other day on my way out of yoga class, its coffee aroma so alluring that I slowed down to do a double take…Ah ha, another new coffee shop in town.

某個風和日麗的午後,我上完瑜伽課,(自我感覺)一身輕盈地騎著單車經過太原路時,被一陣濃郁的咖啡香給吸引了。忍不住慢下速度轉頭一看….喲?又是一家新的咖啡店。

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That in itself isn’t really exciting news, for coffee shops have been popping up non-stop in Shanghai during the past three years, with few leaving a memorable mark in my mind. So I didn’t think much of this new cafe at the time, and biked away without even finding out its name.

近幾年來上海大大小小的咖啡店越開越多,不過能讓人留下印象的倒也沒幾個。不是說新店中沒有好的,而是因爲已有那幾家熟悉、不用多想就能輕松享受的店。所以當我看到這家新店時,心裏飄過一句 “噢,又來了一家“,甚至連店名字都沒看清楚,就加速離開了(一部分原因是因爲當時肚子很餓,趕著去吃晚飯…)

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But for some reason, the coffee aroma I’d taken in on this particular afternoon kept wafting in my head, so I finally decided to go back to look for it. On this visit, I found out its name – “O.P.S., a spoonful of curiosity”.

不過也不知爲何,那誘人的咖啡香一直在我腦海裏飄呀飄。于是某個(同樣)風和日麗的午後,我約了朋友又回到了建國西路太原路口,順著馬路找到了這家咖啡店。這次看清楚了名字,是 O.P.S.,下面付著一句 “a spoonful of curiosity”。

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Upon entering, it’s easy to see the 10 sqm shop in its entirety. The palette is composed of white, grey, and a soft pinkish orange, pleasant, with no crazy designs or decorations screaming for attention. The barista workstation takes up about half the tiny space, with the rest occupied by a slender bar and two seats by the wall.

推門而入,10平米的小店一目了然。以白、灰、以及淡淡粉橘爲主色調的空間非常柔和,沒有刻意誇張的設計來引人注意。小巧玲珑空間裏,咖啡工作台占了一半的位置,剩下的是一個細長的吧台以及兩個靠牆的座位。嗯,感覺不錯,那就留下來喝一杯吧。再說店這麽小,咖啡師們又如此溫暖地對著我們微笑了,這個時候再走出去多尴尬啊(笑)。

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Written by sugarednspiced

September 13th, 2017 at 4:07 pm

Posted in shanghai

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