Sugared & Spiced

pâtissière in paris, now shanghai

Some thoughts / 一些想法

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I haven’t written about this on Sugared & Spiced yet, but it’s been 6 months since I got back to working full time in a professional pastry kitchen.

還未在Sugared & Spiced上寫過這件事情,不過我回到專業甜點廚房全職工作,已經六個月了。

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A lot of people were surprised about this decision. It certainly seemed like I was living the ideal life – teaching pastry classes and writing on Sugared & Spiced was the perfect combination, and I also had the flexibility to travel whenever I wanted. Why would I quit this to go back to the professional kitchen, where it’s nothing but intense physical work, and getting paid only a fraction of what I was earning working for myself?

Because that, for me at the time, was too comfortable.

很多人對我再次回到廚房工作感到驚訝。之前教教課、寫寫文章,每天做著自己喜歡的事情,隨時都能來場說走就走的旅行。這樣隨心所欲的狀態如此理想,爲何要重回廚房做一份體力活、而且薪水只有之前幾分之一的工作?

因爲這個狀態對當時的我來說,太舒適安逸了。

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I was working in Paris for about three years, which is very short as far as a patissier career goes. Sure, what I had in my pocket was adequate for teaching classes and perhaps even for opening a shop, but it didn’t feel “enough”. For the past two years in Shanghai, I was making pastries mostly for classes, which were too simple compared to the ideas I had in my mind. So I started to look for opportunities that can allow me to, simply put, level up.

我在巴黎學習工作幾年時間,以一位甜點師來說,其實還非常資淺。雖然所擁有的技巧和知識足以開課甚至開店,但自己覺得還不夠。離開巴黎,回到上海的這兩年雖然做著甜點,但以教課爲主,內容有很多限制,無法做出心裏所有想做的東西。如果有一個平台可以讓我再多學習、多精進、多探索,那我會抓住這個挑戰自己的機會。

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So when such an opportunity presented itself, I pushed myself to grab it.

所以當這個機會出現時,我決定把自己再推出去一次。

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January 7th, 2018 at 2:15 pm

關於巴黎、關於甜點、關於工作、關於生活 – part 1

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(Sorry, this post is in Chinese only! Hopefully I will get around to translating it sometime in the future…:)

 

花了點時間整理出2012年8月至2015年9月,在巴黎那三年多的微博 (id: sugared_n_spiced)。從原本打算小住,到因爲瘋狂愛上甜點所以年複一年地留下,這些精選出的小小里程碑和碎碎念記錄了有關我對于巴黎、甜點、工作、和生活的感想。回頭去看,都是一步一腳印。

 

– Prélude –

2012-8-3

Sugared & Spiced 要搬家去巴黎,月底就走。

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2012-8-16

“Twenty years from now, you will be more disappointed by the things you didn’t do than by the ones that you did. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.”

– Mark Twain

 

2012-8-19

看完江口洋介和蒼井優主演的 “街角洋果子店”,感想 1:好吃的甜點的確能感動人心。感想 2:成爲甜點師傅的修業之路真是步步艱辛呀。

 

2012-8-22

收到朋友送的 Moleskine 巴黎城市筆記本。再過三天就要離開上海前往巴黎,一年的甜點學習生活即將展開,心情興奮之余,不免有些忐忑。

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2012-8-27

前往巴黎。

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– Paris, Enchantée –

2012-9-2

今天在家附近的周日市集買了我到巴黎後的第一根法棍麵包,莫名的成就感…

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February 22nd, 2018 at 2:01 pm

[Shanghai 上海] % Arabica

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% Arabica

Add: 374 Wukang Road
Tel: 17301693358
Hours: 10am-10pm
Price: 25-50 RMB/coffee
Visited: Feb 2018

In September 2014, a coffee shop named “% Arabica” opened right near the beautiful Yasaka Pagoda in Kyoto, inside an old Japanese house of over 50 years old. The facade is low-key, but the stylish vibe oozing out from large window panes immediately attracts the passerby.

2014年9月,在古色古香的京都八坂塔旁一棟50多年的日式房子裏,開了一家名叫 “% Arabica” 的咖啡館。外觀低調,然而透過大片玻璃窗滲透出來讓人無法忽視的時髦感,輕而易舉地將路人都吸引了過去。

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I happened to live 5 minutes away from the cafe, and went for an early coffee before the crowd got in. The entrance of the shop is a concrete replicate of the cobblestone pattern of Yasaka Street, which makes it seem like the outside pavement continues right into the shop, creating an illusion of a side street off the alleyway.

我前年去京都的住所正好在離 % Arabica 步行五分鍾之處,趁一大早還沒什麽人,找了過去。門口玻璃的通透感,以及店內延用與街道上相似的地磚,都讓人有種鑽入小巷子的錯覺。

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The map on the wall symbolizes the motto of % Arabica: “See the world, through coffee”, and standing next under the map is Junichi Yamaguchi, winner of the “Coffee Fest Latte Art World Championship Open Tokyo 2014″, and now the head barista of % Arabica.

牆上的地圖代表著 % Arabica 的座右銘:”See the world, through coffee” - 藉由咖啡來認識這個世界。地圖下面這位就是店長山口淳一,我很幸運的捕捉到了他本人。他是2014拿鐵拉花大賽冠軍 (Coffee Fest Latte Art World Championship Open Tokyo 2014),據說在海外競賽也是常勝軍,是個相當厲害的人物。

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On another note, Kenneth Shoji, the founder of % Arabica, has quite an interesting background – you can read more about him here.

% Arabica的品牌創立人東海林克範,則是因爲貿易工作的關系遊遍世界各地,在反複思考自己想過什麽樣的生活時,發現其實 “想要簡單生活,只要在衣食住上能夠滿足,並且能帶著小孩一起到世界各地旅行”。熱愛咖啡的他,決定通過咖啡來實現這樣的生活。他在夏威夷買了一塊咖啡莊園,于香港創立了公司後將品牌帶回日本,與山口先生一起打造了京都的% Arabica。

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February 21st, 2018 at 2:01 pm

[Shanghai 上海] Oha Eatery 知覺食堂

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Oha Eatery

Add: 23 Anfu Road
Tel: 13621647680
Hours: 11am-2pm, 5-10pm
Price: lunch 70-120 RMB, dinner 200-300 RMB
Visited: Jan 2018

Oha Cafe, the newest addition to the ever-so-popular Anfu Road, is a coffee window brought to you by the folks behind Bar No. 3. It’s small but stylish, pairing warm wood with a sliver of bright blue, easily attracting passerby like myself.

某天在安福路上閒逛時發現了一家新的咖啡店,叫做 Oha Cafe。說它是咖啡店吧,其實比較像是個咖啡窗口外加兩個小座位。門面就這麽點大,溫暖的木頭色和一絲亮眼的藍,給原本就已相當洋氣的安福路又添了份時髦感。

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Latte in hand, I was about to walk away…then I noticed that there’s something more.

買了杯拿鐵准備走人的時候,發現這 cafe 後面似乎另有乾坤…

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In fact, there’s whole restaurant nestled quietly just behind the cafe!

原來在小小咖啡窗口後面,還有一間 Oha Eatery 知覺食堂。

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January 18th, 2018 at 2:48 am

[Shanghai 上海] Chez Maurice (2)

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Chez Maurice

Add: 泰安路50號2樓
Tel: 6229 9668
Hours: Mon-Fri 5:30~10:30pm, Sat-Sun 11:30am~2:30pm, 5:30~10:30pm
Price: average spend 400 RMB/person
Visited: Nov 2017

I’ve written about this French bistro on Tai’an Road when it first opened, and in the blink of an eye it’s been almost two years, oh my. Chez Maurice is known for their excellent execution of traditional French charcuterie taught by Monsieur Maurice , a French grandpa whose family has been in the meat business for generations. This time though, I came specifically to try their new winter dishes.

泰安路上的這家法式小館剛開幕不久時我曾經寫過,一轉眼也快要兩年了。這裏出名的是由法國老先生Maurice手把手教出來的charcuterie肉類料理,聽說最近推出了新的冬季料理,找了機會過來嚐嚐。

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Laguiole steak knives, how very conveniently placed.

既然是吃肉的地方,好刀子少不了。Laguiole的牛排刀,很豪邁地直接插在桌面上。

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Carpaccio de Chevreuil (108 RMB), venison carpaccion with horseradish aioli, parsley, pine nuts, and black truffle. Beautiful color and delicious gamey flavor.

前菜的生薄鹿肉 (108 RMB) 擺盤漂亮,鹿肉質細嫩帶有野味,搭配山葵醬、歐芹、松仁和黑松露,好好好。

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January 11th, 2018 at 8:53 am

[Shanghai 上海] Pain Chaud L’Avenue

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Pain Chaud L’Avenue

Add: L115 L’Avenue, 99 Xianxia Lu
Tel: 3212 5150
Hours: 8am-7pm
Price: average spend 60 RMB
Visited: Dec 2017

Even when it was just a lone shop on Yongkang Road, Pain Chaud had always been one of my favorite French bakeries in Shanghai. Now, they have opened a second location in L’Avenue, that luxury shopping mall in Hongqiao by the LVMH Group – closer to home, even better.

Pain Chaud 還只有一家單店在永康路時,我就挺喜歡這家法國面包店了。今年他們在 L’Avenue 尚嘉中心開了新店,離我家更近,時不時會和朋友約在這裏吃早餐。

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I’m usually not a fan of shops and cafes located inside malls, but this particular Pain Chaud is set by the street side, nicely designed with plenty of greens and natural light. Like very much.

其實一般對在購物中心裏的店沒什麽好感,但是這家Pain Chaud沿街的位置非常明亮、設計風格和永康路店相比更精致一些,我很喜歡。

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“Pain Chaud” literally means “hot bread”, and it’s true that the shop is always stocked with freshly baked baguettes, croissants, red wine fig rolls, and brioches…

“Pain Chaud” 的意思是 “熱騰騰的面包”,店裏的確總是堆滿著新鮮出爐的法棍、可頌、紅酒無花果面包、奶油面包、裸麥面包…讓人目不暇給。

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January 11th, 2018 at 4:46 am

[Shanghai 上海] RAC Bar

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RAC Bar

Add: Building 14, No. 322 Anfu Road
Tel: N/A
Hours: Mon- Wed, Sun 8am-6pm, Thu-Sat 8am-11pm
Price: 35~98 RMB/crepe
Visited: Feb 2017

RAC Bar, brought to us by the same team behind RAC Coffee, opened a few weeks ago in a courtyard on Anfu Road and immediately became one of the hottest spots in Shanghai.

RAC Bar開在安福路上的一個庭院裏,和巷口的RAC Coffee由同一個團隊打造。雖然不是街邊的位置,但這家開幕才兩周的小餐廳已經成爲附近食客們的最愛。

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It’s a simple space of cement grey and warm wood, punctuated with a beautiful dark green. Large windows, lots of natural light.

先看一下餐廳設計。RAC Bar簡潔的空間由水泥灰和木頭色爲主,其中穿插著漂亮的深綠色,大片的玻璃窗讓店內通透感十足。

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A nice cup of latte (35 RMB) first, straight from RAC coffee.

在窗邊的位子坐下來,點一杯拿鐵 (35 RMB)。咖啡由RAC Coffee窗口送過來,味道很好。

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January 11th, 2018 at 2:04 am

[Shanghai 上海] Jeju Izakaya 倍樂濟州居酒屋

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Jeju Izakaya by Belloco

Add: 1095 Yuyuan Road
Wechat: jejuizakaya
Hours: 6pm~1am
Price: 300~350 rmb/person
Visited: Dec 2017

Jeju Izakaya hides itself in a non-descriptive building on Yuyuan Road. If you didn’t come looking for it, you probably wouldn’t notice its sign on the floor, so discreet that it almost blends into the background…

Jeju Izakaya藏在愚園路上一棟不起眼的小房子裏,若不是專門爲它而來,肯定不會注意到地上那塊幾乎融入到背景裏的門牌…

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But go ahead and slide open the heavy metal door to discover this ultra hip Korean izakaya*. The tiny space is not much more than an open kitchen and eight seats around the bar. Reservation must be done via Wechat, and so far it looks like every seat is booked at least two weeks in advance.

*Jeju Izakaya is owned by the same company that operates Belloco and Professor Lee in K 11.

拉開厚重的鐵門,赫然發現裏面是家氣氛極酷的的韓式居酒屋*。小小的空間裏只有圍繞著吧台的八個位子,每晚都是客滿狀態,必須通過微信訂位,而且基本上都只能約到兩周後9點以後的位子了。

*Jeju Izakaya和Belloco以及K 11裏的Professor Lee是同一個老板經營的喲。

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We were first served a sip of house wine upon being seated. The drinks menu lists a good number of whisky and Korean soju high ball options, as well as some beer and wine choices. On another note, the music here is absolutely dope.

入座後,老板會先爲客人倒上一小杯招待的紅酒。酒單上有很多威士忌以及韓國燒酒的highball的選擇,也有一些啤酒和葡萄酒。Btw,這裏的音樂好聽,大大加分 🙌🏼 。

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January 10th, 2018 at 10:15 am

[Shanghai 上海] MAGGIEMAO 蔓茂花廊

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MAGGIEMAO The Floral Art

Add: 233 Anfu Road
Tel: 3363 7113
Wechat: mmartsh
Hours: 12-7pm (closed on Mon)
Website: www.maggiemaostudio.com

MAGGIEMAO, a floral gallery hidden in an old apartment building on Anfu Road, is one of those extraordinarily beautiful spaces that has me snapping photos non-stop the moment I step in.

我在安福路上,發現了隱藏在老公寓裏的 MAGGIEMAO蔓茂花廊。這是個會讓人忍不住一直想按下快門的美麗空間,至少我是這樣,在踏入第一步時就無法自拔了。

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Plants are placed on the shelves, on the tables, on the floors, meticulous enough to seem arranged, yet casual enough to retain some of their natural wildness. Sharp geometric lines of the metal shelves contrast beautifully with the sensuous curves of the flowers and leaves, a lovely balance.

簡潔的空間裏,幾個金屬櫃子的幾何線條添了份俐落剛硬,和植物自然柔美的曲線形成了微妙的對比。花和綠葉雖是修剪過的,但仍帶些自然的野性,時而隨興時而刻意地散置在櫥櫃、桌面、地上。

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January 9th, 2018 at 9:37 am

[Sri Lanka 斯里蘭卡] Amangalla 安縵伽拉

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Amangalla

Add: 10 Church Street, Fort, Galle, Sri Lanka
Tel: +94 91 223 3388
Website: www.aman.com/resorts/amangalla
Price: 725 USD/night and up
Visited: Oct 2017

It was such a pleasant surprise to discover that there is an Aman property in Galle, Sri Lanka, where I would be attending a wedding. Set within the ramparts of the Galle Fort, Amangalla is part of this more than 400-year-told UNESCO World Heritage Site. I immediately reserved for three nights, eager to experience living on this historical site…but a few days before departure, I received an email from the hotel saying that their AC system broke down. Uh oh.

一向非常喜歡安缦集團的我,這次在規劃斯里蘭卡行程時驚喜地發現加勒城牆內有家Amangalla安缦伽拉,屬于聯合國世界遺産地的一部分。預定了三晚,滿心期待入住這座充滿韻味的古建築,沒想到在啓程的幾天前突然收到來自安缦伽拉的郵件,非常抱歉地通知說酒店的冷氣壞了…诶?!

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The hotel proposed three options: 1) Move my reservation to Amanwella (stunning property, but two hours away from Galle and too far for the wedding festivities), 2) Reserve a boutique hotel in Galle on my behalf (but…but Aman!), and 3) Provide a small portable AC in the room (Is that going to work given the intense humidity of Southeast Asia?) Hmm…tough one.

In the end I decided to stay with Amangalla, and…what a charming stay it turned out to be!

酒店給了三個方案:1)改訂至另一家安缦酒店Amanwella(車程兩小時,這次去參加婚禮不方便),2)幫我預定加勒另一家精品酒店(可是就想住安缦呀!),以及 3)在房內提供移動型小冷氣(東南亞熱帶天氣,小冷氣有用嗎?)…唔,棘手啊。

雖然有點擔心沒有正常冷氣系統要如何承受東南亞熱帶的天氣,不過考慮後決定照原計劃入住安缦伽拉。結果,渡過了充滿驚喜的三天美好時光,真慶幸來了…

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Galle’s tumultuous history spans more than 400 years, and Amangalla, nestled within its fort, reflects this deep history. Built in 1684 and once used as an army command center, it was later renovated to become the New Oriental Hotel in 1865. Its last owner, Ms. Nesta, sold the property to Aman on her 90th birthday, with all but one request – that the only house on the property to be kept for her husband, who, to this date, still travels to Galle from London once in a while.

斯里蘭卡曾被葡萄牙、荷蘭、英國殖民,而安缦伽拉也體現了這數百年來的曆史文化變遷。始建于1684年的建築曾作爲殖民地駐軍的指揮部,後來于1865年被改建成了新東方酒店(New Oriental Hotel),最後一任主人Nesta女士在她90歲生日這天把幾代相傳的房産賣給了安缦集團,唯一要求是要將建築群內的獨棟別墅留給她先生Rainey(如今他住在倫敦,寒冬時都會回來度假呢)。

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November 9th, 2017 at 3:05 pm