[Shanghai 上海] Cafe 385

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Cafe 385

Add: Huashan Road (please contact below wechat for details)
Wechat: andrew_wu_china
Hours: reservation only
Price: hand drip coffee 50-65 RMB
Visited: May 2016

The other day at Moon Coffee I casually asked their barista A-Tang where he goes for coffee in Shanghai. After some thoughts, he told me about this “coffee bar inside an apartment building”, and without quite explaining what it is, he gave me the barista contact. Always curious about these hidden places, I made a reservation right away for a visit.

之前在月球和阿堂閒聊時,隨口問了身爲咖啡師的他平時會去哪裏喝咖啡。慢條斯理地想了想後,他告訴我有一家 “公寓裏的咖啡館”,具體是個什麽樣的地方他也沒說清楚,總之把店主的聯系方式給了我。這種隱藏起來的地方我最有興趣了,約好時間,就這麽去了。

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The space is located on the 2nd floor of an apartment building on Huashan Road, and only upon entering did I find out its name –  “Cafe 385”.  It’s a charming place with soft natural light, antique-looking furniture, and chairs that fit just right.

這個空間位于華山路上一間老公寓的二樓,直到進門後我才知道它叫做 Cafe 385。起居室裏陽光柔和、空氣安靜、家具擺飾看起來熟悉、椅子也正好合身。咖啡吧後面站的就是這裏的主人 Andrew,大家都叫他小安。

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Behind the coffee bar is Andrew from Taiwan, who is still very fresh to Shanghai. Before this coffee venture, he was working in Sony Taiwan doing photography tutorials and sales training for DSLRs. As for coffee, he started drinking it at the age of 17, and since then has met quite a few coffee experts and afficionados. He came to China for the first time last March to attend a coffee expo, fell in love with the Former French Concession area, and decided to stay for a while.

小安,30來歲的台灣人,做咖啡師之前其實是個攝影師,在台灣 Sony 工作了好一段時間,主要負責單眼相機和一些其他産品的銷售訓練和攝影教學。十七歲開始喝咖啡以來陸陸續續地結識不少咖啡人與咖啡愛好者,去年三月來上海參加咖啡展會時愛上了舊法租界,決定在這裏待上一陣子。

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[Shanghai 上海] Tai’an Table 泰安門

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Tai’an Table

Add: N/A
Tel: N/A
Website: www.taian-table.com
Hours: [Tue-Sat] 6pm-12am (closed on Mon & Sun)
Visited on: Apr 2016

Rumor has it that Stefan Stiller’s dream has always been to have a small restaurant with an open kitchen cooking seasonal cuisine, and it seems like the recently-opened Tai’an Table is exactly that – a completely open kitchen, 20 bar seats, and one seasonal menu that changes monthly. No address, no phone number, just a reservation website. You go?

Stefan Stiller在德國曾擁有自己的米其林一星餐廳,也在上海開過精致的 fine dining 和閃亮亮的廚藝教室。不過,聽說大廚一直以來的夢想,其實是經營一家有開放式廚房的季節料理小餐廳。兩周前悄悄開幕的 “泰安門 Tai’an Table” 似乎是這樣的一個地方 - 完全開放式的廚房、20個吧台座位、一個每月更換的套餐;沒有地址,沒有電話,只有一個訂位網站。你,去嗎?

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Stiller is cooking in the kitchen himself, but has also hired Jeno Racz from Hungary to be his chef de cuisine. Racz used to work at Noma in Copenhagen, Robuchon in Singapore, Dinner by Heston Blumenthal in London, and more recently at a molecular gastronomy catering company called Bubble Food.

Stefan Stiller 除了親自掌管廚房之外,也請了來自匈牙利的 Jeno Racz 擔任 chef de cuisine。Racz 曾任職于哥本哈根Noma、新加坡 Robuchon、倫敦 Dinner by Heston Blumenthal、以及分子料理外燴公司 Bubble Food,履曆相當漂亮的他,一個多月前來到了上海。

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[Shanghai 上海] Salon de Thé de Joël Robuchon

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Salon de Thé de Joël Robuchon

Add: 1F No. 18 Zhong Shan Dong Yi Road
Tel: 6070 8888
Hours: 10am-10pm
Price: [Afternoon Tea] 328 RMB/person, 588 RMB/2 persons [a la carte] 65-88 RMB
Visited: Apr 2016

Please note that this was an invited tasting.

So, Robuchon is finally in Shanghai. He who owns the most number of Michelin stars in the world recently opened his first L’Atelier and Salon de Thé ever on mainland China, both located in Bund 18. Let’s go take a look.

請注意本次為餐廳安排試吃。

終于,Robuchon來了。這位在全世界擁有最多顆米其林星星的 “世紀名廚”,這兩周先後在上海外灘 18 號開了他在中國內地的第一家餐廳 L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon 以及茶室 Salon de Thé。不囉唆,去瞧瞧。

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On the first floor is Robuchon’s pastry boutique, displaying rows of alluring cakes, macarons, chocolates, and breads. The design is his signature red and black, the stark contrast is sleek and eye-catching.

一樓進去首先是 Robuchon 的面包甜點店,陳列著各式令人垂涎欲滴的蛋糕、馬卡龍、巧克力、和面包。裝潢風格是 Robuchon 一貫的紅黑色強烈對比。

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[Shanghai 上海] Maison Asano 淺野府 (2)

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Maison Asano 淺野府

Add: 318-2 Julu Lu, near Maoming Nan Lu / 巨鹿路318-2, 近茂名南路
Tel: 6216 2019 / 18019363910
Hours: [Tue-Sun] 5:30-10:30pm (closed on Mon)
Price: 888~1980 RMB/set
Visited: Mar 2016

Please note that this was an invited tasting.

It’s been over a year since I last visited to Maison Asano, and during the past few months, this high-end Japanese restaurant has gone through some significant changes. The original open space has been sectioned off into various private rooms, and even the bar feels more intimate now. The chef in charge has also changed from Liam to Simon, a young Taiwanese chef in his early thirties, but we will talk about him a bit later.

請注意本次為餐廳邀請試吃。

記得 2010 年 Sushi Oyama 開幕時,曾是上海唯一一家高級壽司店,讓我非常著迷。在離開上海的幾年,陸續聽說多了不少類似級別的壽司店,而其中一家開幕時備受矚目的是巨鹿路上的淺野府。後來通過朋友介紹認識了老板Judy,上周受她邀請去用了晚餐,除了好奇這家餐廳的現況,也想了解下這位臉蛋精致的像洋娃娃的台灣日本混血女孩,怎麽會想要跑來上海開一家日本料理。

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What’s left unchanged is the price – Maison Asano still offers set of 888 and 1380 RMB, but they can also go up to 1980RMB for those who really want to splurge – but they do request an one-week advance notice to prepare this special menu. For me, dinner commenced with a bowl of Japanese yellowtail soup – a perfect start for this chilly Spring evening.

淺野府自 2013 年開幕後有了不少變化。本來開放的空間改成了包房的設計,吧台的位子多了不少私密感,料理長也在最近換了人 - 這點,稍後再細說。淺野府有888元和1380元的套餐,也可以根據客人的要求做1680和1980的極致套餐(需一周前預訂)。我當天的晚膳,由一碗熱騰騰的鰤魚蒜味前湯開始。

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Appetizers: sesame spinach, red conch, tuna withmountain yam, and tomato poached in red wine.

前菜:胡麻菠菜、紅螺、山藥金槍魚、紅酒番茄。

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Japanese sea bream with orange vinegar.

鲷魚,佐橙醋。

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[Shanghai] UNDEF/NE

UNDEF/NE

Add: 105, Building 6, 50 Moganshan Road / 莫干山路50号6号楼105室
Tel: 2277 6299
Hours: [Mon-Fri] 10am-6pm [Sat-Sun] 10am-8pm
Price: [coffee] 25-35 RMB
Visited: Nov 2015

Trekked all the way up north to check out UNDEF/NE at the M50 art zone. Opened at the end of 2014, UNDEF/NE is a warehouse-turned-cafe / art gallery / event space by Shanghainese couple Jason and Nemo, who studied in England and worked respectively in finance and media before launching this project. I was just there for a cup of coffee and fell quite in love with this space, which feels spacious thanks to the high ceiling and open plan design, but also has its fair share of intimate nooks.

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The source of coffee beans at UNDEF/NE changes from time to time, and currently it is a boutique coffee roaster called Little Bean based out in Pudong. The coffee barista who served us used to work at Essence Cafe (质馆咖啡), and we were happy with our two cups of latte (30 RMB).

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[Shanghai] October on Instagram

I’m used to recording bits of my life on Instagram, but knowing that this is blocked in Shanghai, I’m selecting 25 snaps from each month and sharing them here on the blog. I’ve also included location details at the end of this post, do go check them out if you like what you see. October was an important month it for me as I moved from Paris to Shanghai during this time, and thanks to family and friends, transition to this new life has been smoother than I had expected. Here are some snapshots…

1. Visiting the newly-opened Chang Zuo for a cup of hand drip coffee.

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2. Like the minimalistic design here.

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3. Upstairs is the showroom for independent designers.

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4. Followed the hype to Mellower Coffee for a cup of “my sweet rain”. Why yes, that is a piece of cotton candy cloud raining sugar into my coffee.

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[Shanghai 上海] Rumors Coffee 魯馬滋咖啡

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Rumors Coffee

Add: 1, Alley 372, Xingguo Road
Tel: 6249 7510
Hours: [Sun-Thu] 11am-7:30pm [Fri-Sat] 11am-10pm
Price: 55-100 RMB/coffee
Visited: Nov 2015

I’ve known about Rumors Coffee since they opened on Hunan Road five years ago, and though I never ventured inside, I’ve always been intrigued by this tiny Japanese cafe that serves only hand dripped coffee. They opened a second location on Xingguo Road just over a year ago, and upon my return from Paris, I finally paid this place a visit…and what a charmer it is!

其實早在五年前,魯馬滋在湖南路上開了第一家店時我就注意到它了。雖然沒進去過,卻一直對這家小小的日式手沖咖啡店感到莫名的興趣。一年多前他們在興國路開了二店,而我趁著從巴黎搬回上海這個機會,拜托朋友介紹了我認識咖啡店的老板中山先生和中山太太。一去,就完全喜歡上這個地方了。

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Before opening this shop, Keiichi Nakayama had a corporate job in Tokyo and travelled to Shanghai from time to time for work. Liking what he saw, he decided to move here with his Shanghainese wife, and together the two of them started their first cafe in 2011 to bring good hand dripped coffee to this city.

開咖啡店之前,中山先生在東京做著一般上班族的工作,偶爾會來上海出差。因爲喜歡咖啡,因爲喜歡上海,他和中山太太決定搬來這裏,兩個人一起開了專做手沖咖啡的魯馬滋。順帶一提,中山太太是上海人,說話非常溫柔,有機會找她聊聊天,心情會很好哦。

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[Shanghai 上海] Speak Low

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Speak Low

Add: 579 Middle Fuxing Road, near Second Ruijin Road
Tel: 6416 0133
Hours: 6pm-late
Price: [2nd floor] 70-90 RMB/cocktail [3rd floor] 110-220 RMB/cocktail
Visited: Oct 2015

There is a quiet little shop on Middle Fuxing Road called “Ocho” selling a neat range of bar tools, many of which curated from Japan by one of the Japanese shop owners. It’s sleek enough to make bartenders drool, but I suppose this doesn’t really concern the rest of us who don’t make cocktails for a living?

復興中路上有家安靜的小店叫做 “Ocho”,裏面陳列著各式各樣的調酒用具,聽說其中不少是老板從日本特別挑選來的精品。這些亮晶晶的東西看起來的確漂亮,不過你說,我又不是調酒師,這跟我沒什麽關系吧?

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But not so quick. You see, there is something curious about this mannequin pointing its finger to the book shelf on the left…

慢,別這麽急。你看這個人偶,如此果斷的指著自己左邊的書架,是不是有點奇怪呢?

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[Shanghai] Somm Wine Gallery

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Somm Wine Gallery

Add: 2F, 284 Anfu Road, near Wukang Road / 安福路284号2楼,近武康路
Tel: 5425 1760
Hours: [Mon-Fri] 4pm-1am [Sat-Sun] 2pm-1am
Price: 130-400 RMB/tasting flight, 150-600+ RMB/glass, 800-3400+ RMB/bottle
Visited: Oct 2015

Other than French pastries, I also developed an interest in French wines during my three years in Paris. It was only natural to get accustomed to drinking regularly, since good wines are so easily accessible (both in terms of availability and price) compared to Shanghai. I can now recognize some familiar names and have a better idea of what I personally like, but of course I’m still far from being a connoissuer and wish that I can continue to learn about French wine even after leaving Paris…so when two friends opened a French-focused wine tasting bar here in Shanghai, I knew I was going to spend quite some time there.

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So here’s Somm Wine Gallery, a stylish space quietly nestled on the second floor of 284 Anfu Road. Beautiful window panes, sleek and comfortable HAY chairs, mood lighting…all very nice,but the focal point here is most definitely the Enomatic wine dispensing system, which guarantees wine quality for 3 weeks (some up to 1 month) after opening. Don’t want to finish a bottle of Montrose 2007 (2,000 RMB) by yourself? Well here you can try it by the glass (360 RMB/12cl) or an even smaller tasting size (180 RMB/6cl).

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[Shanghai] Quan Er 荃二 (2)

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Quan Er 荃二

Add: 1 Alley 76 Wuyuan Road, near Changshu Road
Tel: 186 2165 1927
Hours: [Thu-Fri] 8-10pm [Sat-Sun] 3-10pm (closed Mon-Wed)
Price: varies
Visited: Sep 2015

I had previously told you about 荃二 (Quan Er), a tiny boutique on Changle Road filled with beautiful ceramics and other knickknacks collected from Japan. It has since moved to Wuyuan Road to a bigger and brighter space, with a charming loft design. In case you had missed the info last time, here it is again: I met 文林 (Wen Lin), one of the three shop owners, years ago through a magazine interview. A soft-spoken man from Sichuan, Wen was then the Associate Director of the lifestyle section at Bund Pic and travelled often to Japan for work. Throughout the years, he and his colleagues have accumulated an impressive collection of miscellaneous goods, and decided to open Quan Er to share this with like-minded others.

之前曾介紹過的日式雜貨店荃二,最近搬了到五原路。新的空間更大更明亮,而且還有舒服的夾層設計。跟店主之一的文林認識是在去巴黎之前,通過雜志訪問的緣故。四川人,相當安靜沈穩,跟他說說話似乎血壓都降低了。之前是外灘畫報生活版副總監的他,由于工作的關系經常去日本,幾年下來和同事們收集了不少手工藝職人的作品。想想不如開間店,分享給同樣愛好的人,于是就有了荃二。

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