[Shanghai 上海] Tai’an Table 泰安門

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Tai’an Table

Add: N/A
Tel: N/A
Website: www.taian-table.com
Hours: [Tue-Sat] 6pm-12am (closed on Mon & Sun)
Visited on: Apr 2016

Rumor has it that Stefan Stiller’s dream has always been to have a small restaurant with an open kitchen cooking seasonal cuisine, and it seems like the recently-opened Tai’an Table is exactly that – a completely open kitchen, 20 bar seats, and one seasonal menu that changes monthly. No address, no phone number, just a reservation website. You go?

Stefan Stiller在德國曾擁有自己的米其林一星餐廳,也在上海開過精致的 fine dining 和閃亮亮的廚藝教室。不過,聽說大廚一直以來的夢想,其實是經營一家有開放式廚房的季節料理小餐廳。兩周前悄悄開幕的 “泰安門 Tai’an Table” 似乎是這樣的一個地方 - 完全開放式的廚房、20個吧台座位、一個每月更換的套餐;沒有地址,沒有電話,只有一個訂位網站。你,去嗎?

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Stiller is cooking in the kitchen himself, but has also hired Jeno Racz from Hungary to be his chef de cuisine. Racz used to work at Noma in Copenhagen, Robuchon in Singapore, Dinner by Heston Blumenthal in London, and more recently at a molecular gastronomy catering company called Bubble Food.

Stefan Stiller 除了親自掌管廚房之外,也請了來自匈牙利的 Jeno Racz 擔任 chef de cuisine。Racz 曾任職于哥本哈根Noma、新加坡 Robuchon、倫敦 Dinner by Heston Blumenthal、以及分子料理外燴公司 Bubble Food,履曆相當漂亮的他,一個多月前來到了上海。

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[Shanghai 上海] Botanist

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Botanist

Add: 17-2 North Xiangyang Road
Tel: 6433 0538
Hours: 7pm-2am (closed on Mon)
Price: 80-95 RMB/cocktail
Visited on: Apr 2016

So Flask is moving because of land issues (new location TBD), and in the meanwhile their second project has already opened its doors. The new bar is called Botanist, apparently they got the inspiration when watching The Martian, in which Matt Damon plays the role of an astronaut/botanist stranded alone on Mars. It’s just a matter of time before this place gets packed everyday, so let’s go now to see what drinks they’ve got…

之前介紹過的 Flask 因爲地的原因要搬家了,新的地點還未確定,而我爲了將要有一段時間吃不到他們美味 grill cheese sandwich 在難過時,老板們的第二家酒吧已默默開幕。新的店名叫 Botanist,說是看到 “The Martian火星人” 裏 Matt Damon 演的生物學家這個角色時得到的靈感。趁他們剛開幕還不需要等位,先去嚐嚐鮮。

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The style of Botanist is completely different from that of Flask – it is not a hidden speakeasy, but rather a street-side bar in plain view. There are floor-to-ceiling windows that can be opened up completely, and there’s a lovely patio bound to be highly sought-after as the weather warms up. True to the “botanist” concept, there are plants everywhere in the space, and not only does that make it all green and pretty,  it actually smells really nice right near the herb wall too. And very importantly, there’s a no smoking policy at Botanist – weee!

Botanist 和 Flas k的風格截然不同,並非隱藏的 speakeasy,而是一目了然的街邊酒吧,有可以整面打開的落地窗和舒服的露台,這個春夏肯定會大受歡迎。利落的線條加上冷色調的白光,走的是有點未來感的設計。以 botanist 植物學家爲概念,空間裏四處都有植物,不僅綠油油的很好看,走近香草牆時真的會聞到淡淡的香味。此外,Botanist 室內禁煙這點更是另我開心。

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[Shanghai 上海] Fu He Hui 福和慧

Fu He Hui 福和慧

Add: 1037 Yuyuan Lu, near Jiangsu Lu
Tel: 3980 9188
Hours: 11am-2pm, 5:30-11pm
Price: 380-880 RMB/person
Visited: Apr 2016

福和慧 – Fu (fortune), He (harmony), Hui (wisdom) – is the fine dining vegetarian restaurant by Fang Yuan and Tony Lu, who have established a solid reputation through their Fu series (Fu 1039, Fu 1088, and Fu 1055), all sharing a penchant of refined Shanghainese dishes in nostalgic old villas. Fu He Hui has also been attracting its fair share of attention since opening in 2015, and is ranked #19 on the latest Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants.

美國來玩的朋友說想去吃一頓精致的中國菜,最近正好看到福和慧在今年 “亞洲50佳餐廳” 排名第19,又有不少朋友推薦,于是就把晚餐訂在這裏了。說福和慧是家素菜館,可不是一般的素菜館。這裏的老板早在幾年前就打造了一系列非常出名的 “福” 餐廳,旗下有福1039,1088,和1015。這幾家我先後都去過,雖然是好幾年前的事了,不過對這些洋房裏的精致上海菜印象一直不錯,有朋友來上海玩,不要求環境的我會帶去老吉士,要求環境的話就去福。

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The vegetarian restaurant offers a few prix fixe menus at three different price points: 380, 680 and 880 RMB per person, all coming with 8 courses. We decided to try one of the two 880 RMB sets to see what the chef has got in his repertoire.

第一次來到福和慧,發現這裏的風格和其他福餐廳很不一樣,沒有繁複雕琢的裝飾,整個空間和內裝都線條簡潔,頗有禅意。菜單上簡單的列了幾種套膳選擇,價位380、680、和880,其中880的有兩套。我們選了880元的其中一個,就坐著等吃了。

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First, a pot of 奇丹 Qi Dan (188 RMB), a famous varietal of Oolong tea from Wuyi.

服務員推薦下了一壺奇丹,聽說這是來自武夷的上等岩茶。順帶一提,服務員飄逸感十足的白色制服好好看啊,可惜忘了拍給你們看。

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Dinner started with two amuse bouche. The first: roast potato with pumpkin and micro coriander.

開胃小點,第一個是烤土豆和南瓜泥。

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[Shanghai 上海] Salon de Thé de Joël Robuchon

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Salon de Thé de Joël Robuchon

Add: 1F No. 18 Zhong Shan Dong Yi Road
Tel: 6070 8888
Hours: 10am-10pm
Price: [Afternoon Tea] 328 RMB/person, 588 RMB/2 persons [a la carte] 65-88 RMB
Visited: Apr 2016

Please note that this was an invited tasting.

So, Robuchon is finally in Shanghai. He who owns the most number of Michelin stars in the world recently opened his first L’Atelier and Salon de Thé ever on mainland China, both located in Bund 18. Let’s go take a look.

請注意本次為餐廳安排試吃。

終于,Robuchon來了。這位在全世界擁有最多顆米其林星星的 “世紀名廚”,這兩周先後在上海外灘 18 號開了他在中國內地的第一家餐廳 L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon 以及茶室 Salon de Thé。不囉唆,去瞧瞧。

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On the first floor is Robuchon’s pastry boutique, displaying rows of alluring cakes, macarons, chocolates, and breads. The design is his signature red and black, the stark contrast is sleek and eye-catching.

一樓進去首先是 Robuchon 的面包甜點店,陳列著各式令人垂涎欲滴的蛋糕、馬卡龍、巧克力、和面包。裝潢風格是 Robuchon 一貫的紅黑色強烈對比。

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[Shanghai 上海] Maison Asano 淺野府 (2)

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Maison Asano 淺野府

Add: 318-2 Julu Lu, near Maoming Nan Lu / 巨鹿路318-2, 近茂名南路
Tel: 6216 2019 / 18019363910
Hours: [Tue-Sun] 5:30-10:30pm (closed on Mon)
Price: 888~1980 RMB/set
Visited: Mar 2016

Please note that this was an invited tasting.

It’s been over a year since I last visited to Maison Asano, and during the past few months, this high-end Japanese restaurant has gone through some significant changes. The original open space has been sectioned off into various private rooms, and even the bar feels more intimate now. The chef in charge has also changed from Liam to Simon, a young Taiwanese chef in his early thirties, but we will talk about him a bit later.

請注意本次為餐廳邀請試吃。

記得 2010 年 Sushi Oyama 開幕時,曾是上海唯一一家高級壽司店,讓我非常著迷。在離開上海的幾年,陸續聽說多了不少類似級別的壽司店,而其中一家開幕時備受矚目的是巨鹿路上的淺野府。後來通過朋友介紹認識了老板Judy,上周受她邀請去用了晚餐,除了好奇這家餐廳的現況,也想了解下這位臉蛋精致的像洋娃娃的台灣日本混血女孩,怎麽會想要跑來上海開一家日本料理。

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What’s left unchanged is the price – Maison Asano still offers set of 888 and 1380 RMB, but they can also go up to 1980RMB for those who really want to splurge – but they do request an one-week advance notice to prepare this special menu. For me, dinner commenced with a bowl of Japanese yellowtail soup – a perfect start for this chilly Spring evening.

淺野府自 2013 年開幕後有了不少變化。本來開放的空間改成了包房的設計,吧台的位子多了不少私密感,料理長也在最近換了人 - 這點,稍後再細說。淺野府有888元和1380元的套餐,也可以根據客人的要求做1680和1980的極致套餐(需一周前預訂)。我當天的晚膳,由一碗熱騰騰的鰤魚蒜味前湯開始。

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Appetizers: sesame spinach, red conch, tuna withmountain yam, and tomato poached in red wine.

前菜:胡麻菠菜、紅螺、山藥金槍魚、紅酒番茄。

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Japanese sea bream with orange vinegar.

鲷魚,佐橙醋。

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[Shanghai 上海] Fumi Coffee

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Fumi Coffee

Add: 215 Fumin Road, near Julu Road
Tel: 5466 6021
Hours: 8am-9pm
Price: [coffee] 20-65 RMB [pastry] 8-42 RMB
Visited: Mar 2016

Brought to you by the owner of Flask (and designed by the same Italian designer Alberto Caiola), Fumi Coffee is a most stylish addition to Shanghai’s booming cafe scene. The eye-catcher of this space is no doubt the wall of Bialetti Moka light fixtures, but everything else – including the black waves hovering up on the ceiling, the sleek metallic tables, stools, counter, and the front window that folds up completely on warm days – has me (and the rest of Shanghai, it seems) falling head over heels.

Another cafe?! 嗯,上海的咖啡店一間接著一間開,不過富民路上這個新成員Fumi Coffee,閃亮的讓你不得不注意它。整個空間的設計 - 包括牆上大大小小的 Bialetti 摩卡壺、天花板的巨型黑浪、銀色鏡面桌椅和工作台、還有可以完全往上收起的大片玻璃 - 都令人驚豔。偷偷告訴你,Fumi Coffee 和陝西南路上的 Flask 是同一位老板,設計師也延用了之前打造 Flask 的意大利事務所 Alberto Caiola。做出來的效果,極酷炫。

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[Shanghai 上海] Grooow Juice 果簍

Grooow Juice 果簍

Add: 124 Wuyuan Road, near Wulumuqi Road
Tel: 54365667
Hours: 10am-8pm
Price: 22-32RMB/cup
Visited: Mar 2016

After visiting a Sunday market on Anfu Road, I was looking for a place to sit and chill but didn’t want coffee or tea (yes these days actually exist). Remembering that there’s a juice shop on Wuyuan Road, I wandered in that general direction and arrived at “Grooow Juice” (果簍 in Chinese). Cute shop front! Let’s drink.

周日在安福路逛完市集後想找個地方坐下,卻又不想喝咖啡(咦,Sugared & Spiced也有不想喝咖啡的時候),想到五原路上有家賣果汁的小店,便一路逛了過來。店的名字叫做果簍,光看門面就知道不是一般的果汁店,風格文藝的很,還寫著 ”大樹底下好乘涼” 幾個字樣。二話不說,進去瞧瞧。

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[Shanghai 上海] Chez Maurice

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Chez Maurice

Add: 2F, 50 Tai’an Road, near Xingguo Road
Tel: 62299668
Hours: 5:30-10:30pm (closed on Tue)
Price: 350-400RMB/person
Visited: Feb 2016

It’s been 5 months since I moved back from Paris, and it’s about time that I start missing sipping wine and snacking on charcuterie boards. It just so happens that Chez Maurice opened last month, and rumor has it that it’s a casual French bistro with excellent charcuterie – just what I have in mind – so I gathered a few friends for a taste of it.

去年 10 月從巴黎回上海後,都還沒吃過幾次法國菜。可能是離開亞洲一陣子了吧?滿腦子都是中餐、日料、泰國菜等等,雖然上海法式餐館也不少,就沒想到要去。不過一晃眼五個月過去了,最近開始懷念起在巴黎小館子裏和三兩好友喝酒吃 charcuterie 的日子,正好上個月 Chez Maurice 開幕了,聽說風格就是輕松的法式小餐館,便和朋友相約去嚐了嚐。

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The location is a 4-story house on Tai’an Road, right above Heyday the jazz bar. Chez Maurice The Grill is on the second floor, and there’s also a Chez Maurice Wine Bar on the third floor plus a Japanese sake bar on the fourth, all by the same owner.

Chez Maurice 位于泰安路 50 號的四層樓洋房裏,我去的是二樓的 Chez Maurice The Grill,老板還在三樓開了 Chez Maurice Wine Bar & Charcuterie,以及四樓的 Revive 日式酒吧。三樓四樓還沒試過,Chez Maurice The Grill 倒是前後去了兩次,今天先分享下在這裏的晚餐。

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The menu is short and succinct – just one page. The charcuterie craft here was taught by Monsieur Maurice, a French grandpa whose family has been in the meat business for generations, and apparently he’s in Shanghai every few months to check up on the bistro named after himself. I first tried Le Foie Gras au Torchon (78 RMB), duck liver with Port wine blackberry sauce and country bread. Excellent, just like what you would get in Paris.

菜單,不啰嗦的只有一頁 - 是我喜歡的長短。聽說這裏的 charcuterie(餐廳很直接很貼切的翻譯爲 “殺豬菜”)是由一位法國老先生 Maurice 手把手教出來的。首先點了份 Le Foie Gras au Torchon(78元)鴨肝、搭配波特酒黑莓果醬和鄉村面包,是巴黎餐館的水准,非常令人滿意。順便一提,”torchon” 是廚房裏用的布,這道菜的做法是將鵝或鴨肝用布包好放入水中煮,所以成品是圓柱狀切出的圓片。

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[Shanghai 上海] Boom Boom Bagels / Sumerian Cafe

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Boom Boom Bagels

Add: 39 Anfu Lu, near Changshu Lu
Tel: 150 2140 8818
Hours: 7:30am-10pm
Price: [coffee] 24-48 RMB [bagels] 12-65 RMB
Visited: Feb 2016

Sumerian Cafe

Add: 415 Shanxi Bei Lu, near Beijing Xi Lu
Tel: 135 6475 5689
Hours: 7:30am-7pm
Website: www.sumeriancoffee.com
Price: [coffee] 24-48 RMB [bagels] 12-65 RMB
Visited: Feb 2016

Upon returning to Shanghai, I was delighted to discover a few new (well, new for me) spots for bagels. The first I tried was Boom Boom Bagels on Anfu Road, with its an attractive purple shopfront and a pretty industrial-grey interior. Only after chatting with the waitstaff did I find out that it’s actually by the same owner of the famed Sumerian Cafe on North Shanxi Road. Aha.

在巴黎三年後回到上海,驚喜的發現這裏居然多了不少吃貝果的好去處。我第一家去試的,是安福路上的Boom Boom Bagels。被亮眼的紫色門面吸進去後,發現室內的簡潔工業風格也很漂亮,看得出是花了心思設計的。和店員聊過才知道它原來和陝西北路上的咖啡名店Sumerian Cafe是同一個老板。哎呀,原來如此。

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[Shanghai 上海] Egg

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Egg

Add: 12 South Xiangyang Road, near Julu Road
Tel: N/A
Hours: 8am-6:30pm
Price: 100-150 RMB/person
Visited: Jan 2016

Bright, instagram-friendly cafe on South Xiangyang Road by cutiepie Camden Hauge of the Shanghai Supperclub. It serves all day breakfast, and as the name suggests, this place is quite egg-centric…even if the dish doesn’t already involve eggs, you have the option to “put an egg on it!” for 8RMB in addition. They also do a 10-seat chef’s table every Thursday evening which sounds like a fun and intimate experience.

襄陽北路上這家 Egg,我還在巴黎時就聽住在上海的外國朋友說了。老板是美國女孩 Camden Hauge,她的溫馨小店全天供應早餐,每道菜不是已經有了雞蛋,就是可以 “put an egg on it!”。Egg每周四還有僅限 10 人座的 chef’s table,每周的主廚不一樣,這個月會有 Madison 的 Austin Hu 和 Elefante 的 Carlos Sotomayor 來客串,聽起來會是兩個相當美味的聚餐。

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