[Tokyo 東京] Yakumo Saryo 八雲茶寮

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Yakumo Saryo 八雲茶寮

Add: 3-4-7 Yakumo, Meguro Ku, Tokyo / 東京都目黒区八雲 3-4-7
Tel: +81-3-5731-1620
Hours: 9am-9pm
Website: yakumosaryo.jp
Price: tea 1,090~2,300 yen
Visited: Oct 2016

It took us a little while to find Yakumo Saryo. This restaurant, hidden inside a quiet residential neighborhood in Meguro, was about a 15-minute walk from the closest station Toritsu Daigaku. After some exploration and retracing of steps (even with Google Map), we arrived at the restaurant, which looked more like a private mansion with a large yard, all ensconced in shades of green. The calming ambience is immediately soothing, and all of our worldly worries seem to be left at the door.

這次在東京探訪的第一家茶館隱身於目黑區安靜的住宅區內,門口看上去像是個有大庭院的私宅,低調的寫著 “八雲茶寮”。要不是事先打聽好,路過就算注意到,也不敢貿然入內吧?穿過庭院來到入口處,靜谧的氣氛讓人心自然沈澱,所有令人煩惱的思緒,都遺留在布簾之外。

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The founder of Yakumo Saryo is designer Shinichiro Ogata, whose design studio Simplicity has put together well-known interior design works throughout Japan, such as Aesop Shinsaibashi and Andaz Tokyo. His style inherits, preserves, and adapts traditional Japanese culture to contemporary designs, often merging the old and new to reveal a refreshing outlook on the traditions.

八雲茶寮的負責人緒方慎一郎本身是位室內設計師,他的設計事務所 Simplicity 出品了非常多知名的店鋪,比如京都和東京的 Aesop 門店(很美,沒看過的速速去網上搜圖),以及之後要介紹的 Higashiya 和櫻井焙茶研究所。他的風格是簡約設計的美學概念裏融合日本文化的細節,讓人能感受到傳統的新觀感。

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At Yakumo Saryo, breakfast and lunch are by reservations, dinner is by invitation (from an existing member), while afternoon tea is open to walk-ins. The number of guests accepted is limited as they wish guests to enjoy the time with as few disturbances as possible; on the afternoon of our visit, there were only 2 or 3 other guests in the tea room.

八雲茶寮有早茶、午飯、下午茶、以及晚飯,午晚飯是必須事先預訂的,招待方式大多是由熟客介紹。這次我們前來用下午茶,被服務人員領到了茶室裏;由于希望客人不受太多打擾,茶室接受的人數不多,除了我和朋友外也就兩三個客人。

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[Tokyo 東京] Cafe Kitsuné

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Cafe Kitsuné

Add: 3-17-1 Minami-Aoyama, Minato Ku, Tokyo / 東京都港区南青山3-17-1
Tel: +81-3-5786-4842
Hours: 9am-8pm
Website: www.kitsune.fr
Price: coffee ~500 yen
Visited: Oct 2016

French music + fashion label Maison Kitsuné’s cafe in Paris used to be one of my go-to places with friends when I lived there – the outdoor seating under the green shades of Palais Royal is simply perfect on a nice day. But even before Paris, the first Cafe Kitsuné was actually opened in Tokyo back in 2013, located in the stylish Minami-Aoyama area. We explore.

Maison Kitsuné 是個日法混血的音樂+服飾品牌,這幾年來也開起了咖啡店。我住巴黎時就很常去 Palais Royal 裡的 Cafe Kitsuné,簡單有型的小店面加上舒服的露天座位,是我和朋友們聊天的不二選擇。不過早在巴黎之前,Cafe Kitsuné 的第一家店其實開在東京,地點就在潮店雲集的南青山一帶。門面相當低調,一不注意就會錯過,得多多留意。

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The entrance is not especially noticeable to the passerbys, though most people come looking for it specifically, so it’s difficult to miss. The Tokyo cafe was transformed from a Japanese house, and much of the traditional elements have been kept intact or reinforced, such as by installing tatami and fusumi sliding doors custom-made from a 70-year-old studio in Shimbashi.

和巴黎的裝修風格不同,東京店將一個和式空間稍做改造,保留了濃濃的日本味。從門口開始就以竹子爲主材料,室內用了定制的榻榻米和日式拉門(聽說是在新橋一家70多歲的老工作室特別定做的)。

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The baristas are all clad in Kitsuné fashion, and the music is likewise Kitsuné. The vibe is cool, and business is good – the space has always been filled during the few times I passed by, weekends or not.

咖啡師們穿著 Kitsuné 的衣服,店裡的音樂也是 Kitsuné 發行的專輯,風格從頭到尾貫徹的很徹底。咖啡店生意非常的好,我幾次經過時店內都幾乎坐滿了,不論平日還是周末。

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[Tokyo 東京] Onibus Coffee

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Onibus Coffee

Add: 2-14-1 Kamimeguro, Meguro, Tokyo / 東京都 目黒区 上目黒 2-14-1
Tel: +81-3-6412-8683
Hours: 9am-6pm
Website: www.onibuscoffee.com
Price: coffee around 500 yen
Visited: Oct 2016

This time in Tokyo, I visited Nakameguro for the first time. This neighborhood might seem a bit too quiet for those looking for the typical hustle and bustle of Tokyo, but if you, like I, enjoy wandering along small alleyways to discover the everyday life of the locals, you might really like this residential area.

這次來東京,第一次去了中目黑。喜歡熱鬧氣氛,想要盡情購物的人也許會覺得中目黑有些平淡,但如果你和我一樣是喜歡在安靜小巷中逛逛,感受東京當地生活氣氛的話,應該會很喜歡這邊。

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And my reason for visiting Nakameguro was Onibus, a coffee shop and roaster sandwiched between a small park and train tracks. Its founder Sakao Atsushi, an architect-turned-barista, has been attracting coffee lovers from all over the world since he opened his first shop in Okusawa a few years ago, and he named the shop “Onibus” (which means public bus in Portuguese) for exactly this reason – to connect people via coffee.

會來到中目黑,是爲了 Onibus 這家咖啡店。老板坂尾篤史不僅在東京咖啡界是個名人,也紅到了國外 - 我到訪的當天就有從世界各地來喝咖啡的人,包括幾個從加州來的咖啡師。店名 Onibus 在葡萄牙語中是公車的意思,代表著坂尾先生想通過咖啡將人和人聯系起來的概念。

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The shop offers espresso-based coffee brewed on a La Marzocco Linea PB, as well as drip coffee done with Hario V60s. For drip coffee, four choices of coffee beans are available: Ethiopia, Kenya, Colombia, and Guatemala. I went with the first.

店裡提供義式咖啡和手沖,義式用 La Marzocco Linea PB 做,手沖則是用Hario V60s。我點了手沖,在下面四種豆子中選了 Ethiopia。

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[Beijing] Duck de Chine 全鴨季

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1949 Duck de Chine 全鴨季

Add: Courtyard 4, Gongti Beilu, Beijng / 北京市工體北路4號院
Tel: 6501 8881
Hours: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-10:30pm
Price: [lunch] 150+ RMB/person [dinner] 400 RMB+/person
Visited: Sep 2016

It goes without saying that when in Beijing, one must have a proper Peking duck meal…but how does one choose among the plethora of restaurants offering this classic delicacy? I also hesitated – should I go to Quan Ju De, an institution for Peking ducks in Beijing, or Da Dong, best known for its modern and fusion twists? In the end, I chose Duck de Chine, which doesn’t only serve some of the best ducks in town, but is also more stylish in terms of decor, making it a popular spot among locals and expats alike.

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First, a selection of condiments for the roast duck (10 RMB/person).

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Here it is, 全鴨季烤鴨 Duck de Chine (268 RMB), carved table-side.

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[Beijing] Country Kitchen 鄉味小廚

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Country Kitchen

Add: 3/F, Rosewood Beijing, Jingguang Centre, Hujialou / 呼家樓京廣中心北京瑰麗酒店1層
Tel: 6597 8888
Hours: 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-10:30pm
Website: www.rosewoodhotels.com/en/beijing/dining
Price: 300-350 RMB/person
Visited: Sep 2016

Hotel restaurants can often be boring, but that’s not the case for Country Kitchen at the Rosewood Hotel in Beijing. Equipped with an open show kitchen and a wood-roasting oven, this rustically stylish restaurant features a wide array of Northern Chinese specialties – a modern tribute to traditional Chinese dining in a sophisticated yet casual setting.

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In terms of interior, the materials of choice are granite, wood, soft red tones, terracotta and oil paintings – specifically chosen to reconstruct the charm and simplicity of a village restaurant.

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[Beijing 北京] Mizu 花治植物美學研究室

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Mizu 花治植物美學實驗室

Add: No. 25 Jianchang Hutong, Guozijian, Beijing
Tel: 18910498961
Hours: 11am-7:30pm
Visited: Sep 2016

In the same alley as the beautiful Yuan Gu is Mizu Lab, a cute little plant shop in a world of its own. The Chinese name is “花治”, which literally means “flower therapy”, as an appreciation for the healing effect of flowers, or plants in general. The space is small and stylish, and somehow reminds me of a corner of Le Comptoir Général back in Paris.

花治的店主們原本是從事藝術設計領域的,後來因爲喜歡植物,開了這家植物美學實驗室;店名取爲 “花治”,是因爲植物對人有奇妙的治愈功效。精心擺設的花藝空間很有風格,讓我想到我在巴黎的愛店 Le Comptoir Général 某個堆滿了仙人掌的角落。

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Other than plants, they also offer some plant-based products collected from all over the world.

還有從各地收集而來的純植物生活用品。

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[Beijing 北京] Fnji Furniture 梵几客廳

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Fnji Furniture 梵几客廳

Add: No. 41 Guozijian Street, Beijing
Tel: 010-5367 2899
Hours: 11am-5:30pm (closed on Mon)
Website: www.fnji.com
Price: drinks 40 RMB+, desserts 35 RMB+
Visited: Sep 2016

Bejing-based Fnji (pronoused “Fanji”) is a furniture brand founded by Chinese industrial designer Gu Qigao in 2000. His pieces, all handmade from wood, make use of the Chinese mortise and tenon joint structure, with designs that bridge between modern and traditional aesthetics. His aspiration? To make furnitures that “age alongside its owners, gaining more character over time as it is passed from one generation to the next”. I visited his showroom in Guozijian and fell head over heels for this beautiful space – it also doesn’t hurt that they have an stylish cafe and a serene courtyard nestled in the back…

梵幾是中國設計師古奇高創立的獨立家具品牌。他們在北京國子監的 “客廳” 融合了中國傳統院落與現代風格,空間分成了雜貨、家具和咖啡三個區域,每一區都是大寫的美。

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The boutique showcases designs from both China and Japan, as well as works from Gu himself. The style is simple, stylish, decidedly Asian but with a modern western vibe. No photos are allowed in the showroom so you can either visit yourself and check out their designs online. For now, let’s move over to the cafe. It was very busy when I visited on a Sunday afternoon, and I was fortunate to find the last empty seats in the courtyard.

展廳裡擺放了品牌兩種風格的家具 - 極簡主義,以及線條更爲豐富的新中式風格 - 還有自創的 “生野安室” 雜貨品牌。不過展廳內不能拍照,那就來看看咖啡區吧。我在周日下午人最多的時候造訪,室內座位已全部客滿,還好很幸運的坐到了庭院裡唯一還空著的位子。

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[Beijing] 元古本店 Yuan Gu

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元古本店 Yuan Gu

Add: No 34, Jianchang Hutong, Beijing
Tel: 010-5728 7950
Hours: 12:30-8:30pm
Price: desserts 35 RMB+, tea 30 RMB+
Visited: Sep 2016

A few steps away from the popular Wudaoying Hutong where Metal Hands is located, there is a quieter alley called Jianchang Hutong. Here, away from the hustle and bustle, you will find Yuan Gu (元古本店), a beautiful space dedicated to showcase a few simple good things in life – handcrafted glassware and ceramics, Chinese tea and tea desserts, to name a few.

離 Metal Hands 所在的五道營胡同不遠之處就是更隱蔽安靜的箭廠胡同。這裡有家漂亮的 “元古本店”, 是由幾個志同道合的好友們共同創造的生活美學概念空間,希望用最樸素的東西 - 自然植物、手作器皿、中式茶點 - 來分享生活中的美好。

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The look is clean – white walls, wooden furniture, and a few plants dotting the space. The tables and chairs are all designed especially for Yuan Gu.

展示空間裡擺放著來自世界各地的手作器皿、用茶區的桌椅也都是特別設計定做的。

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[Beijing 北京] Metal Hands

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Metal Hands

Add: No. 61 Wudaoying Hutong, Beijing
Tel: 15510533895
Hours: 9am-9pm
Price: coffee 26 RMB+
Visited: Sep 2016

Another cafe worth recommending in Beijing is Metal Hands. Just opened this July, this little coffee shop is settled in the busy Wudaoying Hutong, not far from Barista Coffee Roasters. Mr. Ding, the owner of the cafe, has apparently been in the China coffee scene for over 10 years, and is one of the first to dedicate his time to latte art (though he wasn’t in the shop on the day of my visit).

Metal Hands位于五道營,今年7月才開幕。聽說這裏的丁老板在咖啡圈已十幾年,是國內比較早開始玩拿鐵拉花的前輩,而且還是個格外低調的帥哥(不過我沒遇上本人)。

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Metal Hands is not big. The elongated space includes a bar on the right, some seats on the left, and an inner corner with skylight. Concrete walls, wooden furniture, and fresh flowers for decoration. It’s not spacious by any means, but quite comfortable nonetheless.

Metal Hands 的店面不大,狹長的空間右邊是咖啡吧台,左邊是一排靠牆的位子,最裡面有頂著天窗、陽光充足的雙人卡座。乾淨的水泥牆、木色調桌椅、還有點綴的鮮花 - 絕對說不上寬敞,卻倒也舒適。

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[Beijing 北京] Algorithm

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Algorithm

Add: No. 1-1 North Gongti Road, Beijing
Tel: 010-8454 3838
Hours: 10:30am-10pm
Price: 150 – 200 RMB/person
Visited: Sep 2016

A new lifestyle concept store called Algorithm opened up not far from Beijing’s hotspot Sanlitun. There have been so many so called “lifestyle concept stores” opening up in Shanghai and Beijing these days that another one simply doesn’t rouse interest from me anymore – I mean, they seem to all be selling the same perfumed candles anyway – except Algorithm has a beautiful second floor cafe/restaurant that’s ideal for a casual lunch or afternoon coffee. Let’s take a look.

三裏屯附近新開了一家名爲 Algorithm 的生活方式買手店。其實這幾年國內越來越多生活方式買手店開幕,出售的物品大多相似 - 衣服、家具、飾品、香薰蠟燭。Algorithm 讓我喜歡的一點,不是它選品有多麽特殊(老實的告訴你很多這些小衆品牌我也不認識),而是二樓用餐區大片玻璃窗外的那片綠蔭。樹葉斑駁的影子映在餐桌上,懶洋洋的搖曳著,太惬意。

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But first, a stroll on the first floor.

不過還是先看看一樓買手店的空間。

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