[Shanghai 上海] Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire

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Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire

Add: 2F Capella Hotel, 480 West Jian Guo Road
Tel: 5466 9928
Hours: Weekdays 6-10pm, Weekends 6-10:30pm
Price: dinner 400 RMB+/person
Visited: Jul 2017

Amongst the myriad of new restaurants and hotels popping up in Shanghai lately, the most sought after is most definitely Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire at the Capella Hotel. The famed French chef has opened over a dozen restaurants around the world, garnering 17 stars in total, and his 16th establishment just softly opened its door in Shanghai.

最近上海新餐廳和酒店如雨後春筍般不斷冒出,而其中最受人矚目,無疑是法國名廚 Pierre Gagnaire 在 Capella 嘉佩樂酒店開的 Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire。這位大廚的餐廳遍布全球,加起來有 17 顆米其林星星。就在這個月,他旗下第 16 家餐廳在上海開幕了。

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The location of the restaurant – Capella Shanghai – is a luxury hotel renovated from historical Shikumen structures. It hasn’t been completed yet, and we will have to wait till September to see it in its full form, but expectations are already high. When finished, Pierre Gagnaire will have not just the restaurant and bar, but also a boulangerie / patisserie, as well as a space called “The Lab” designated for culinary private events.

餐廳所在地 - 上海建業里嘉佩樂酒店 - 是由石庫門建築群修複而成的奢華酒店,目前還未完工,正式開業要等到九月(已迫不及待想要去瞧瞧了)。由 Pierre Gagnaire 所經營的除了有餐廳和酒吧,將來還會有街邊的面包甜點房 - La Boulangerie et Patisserie,以及一個提供 “私人預定的美食空間” - The Lab。

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[Shanghai 上海] Bo Shanghai (2)

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Bo Shanghai

Add: 6F, Bund 5, 20 Guangdong Lu
Tel: 5383 3656
Hours: 6-11pm
Price: dinner set 1680 RMB + 10%,wine pairing + 650~850 RMB
Visited: Apr 2017

Please note that this was an invited tasting arranged by the restaurant.

6 months after its grand opening last year, Bo Shanghai finally released its menu 2.0. What’s new?

請注意本次為餐廳安排試吃。

繼去年10月在上海外灘五號風風火火地開幕後,Bo Shanghai 终于推出了他们的第二套菜单。这个醞釀了 6 個月之久的新菜單,到底有什麼內容呢?

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But first, a quick intro for those who didn’t already know about this restaurant. Bo Shanghai is the brainchild of Alvin Leung of the Bo Innovation (Hong Kong) fame, the cuisine is French inspired by China’s 8 regional cuisines. The kitchen here, helmed by head chefs DeAille and Simon, creates dishes that are completely different from what’s on offer in Hong Kong. Click here to read more about Bo Shanghai’s grand opening last year.

先給還不知道這家餐廳的人一個簡短的介紹:Bo Shanghai 是香港米其林三星的 Bo Innovation 的 “廚魔” Alvin Leung 在上海開的分店,用法國料理極致繁複的手法诠釋了來自中國八大菜系的靈感,由主廚 DeAille 和 Simon 呈現出和香港店完全不同的創意。想要了解更多,可以點擊這裡閱讀去年開幕時我寫的文章。

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The new menu is 12 courses long (1680 RMB + 10%), which is two dishes more than its predecessor (and unsurprisingly more expensive), with wine pairing at another 650 RMB (3 glasses) or 850 RMB (5 glasses). At this price point, Bo Shanghai certainly isn’t a restaurant to walk into casually…but the new menu does showcase the tremendous amount of thoughts the chefs have poured into its creation.

新菜單是一份 12 道式套餐(1680 元 + 10%),比之前的多了兩道(自然價格也上去了),配酒另加 650 元(3杯)或 850 元(5杯)。價格如此昂貴的 Bo Shanghai 顯然不是一家可以隨便走進去的餐廳…不過新菜單的確比之前更細致更華麗,用餐過程中主廚們詳細的解釋也讓人感受到他們在設計每一道料理時的用心。

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The amuse bouche, a duo of “molecular xiaolongbao” and Shanghainese kaofu, hasn’t changed. The “molecular xiaolongbao” is a classic creation from Alvin, its skin made from seaweed extractions, wrapping a soup that tastes exactly like xiaolongbao, adorned with a piece of vinegared ginger. As it bursts in the mouth, the soup is released…a sensation.

開胃小點倒是沒有變,和上份菜單一樣是 “分子小籠包” 以及 “烤麸”。其中分子小籠包是 Alvin 的經典創作之一,海藻制成的薄皮裹著高湯,上面點綴著一片用醋泡過的薑,放入嘴裏後輕壓便破裂,釋放出鮮味十足的小籠包風味。

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[Shanghai 上海] Ginger by the Park

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Ginger by the Park

Add: 91 Xingguo Lu
Tel: 3406 0599
Hours: 10:30am-11pm
Price: 200~250 RMB/person
Visited: Apr 2017

Years ago when I first visited Ginger, it was still tucked away in a small alleyway on Fuxing West Road. With the loveliest courtyard, this was where I would spend afternoons sipping on tea and having lazy conversations with friends. Upon returning from Paris, I discovered that the cafe/bistro has moved to a new location on Xingguo Road…less discrete, but no less charming.

好幾年前第一次去 Ginger,它還開在複興西路的小弄堂裏,很喜歡那穿過細長通道後豁然開朗的感覺,下午坐在院子裏非常舒服。從巴黎回到上海後發現 Ginger 搬家了,新的地點在興國路上一個很安靜的地段,旁邊是公園,窗外一片綠。翻開菜單,看到的第一句話就吸引到我了:

“我們巡遊了世界,迫不及待地想和你分享那些最觸動我們味蕾和心靈的各地美食。Ginger 邀請你跟我們一起踏上舌尖上的奇妙旅行,感受口腹滿足的小幸福。”

…完全戳中我心啊。

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Ginger’s owner Betty is Singaporean by origin, but has been traveling around pretty much all her life. After going through Beijing, Hong Kong, and Tokyo, she settled in Shanghai in 2003, and Ginger was born. A foodie at heart, Betty tastes insatiably as she travels, and brings back all that is delicious to her restaurant, sharing her passion with fellow food lovers.

Ginger 的老板 Betty 是新加坡人,1987年搬到了北京(好早),後來去了香港、東京、2003年來到上海,不知不覺中已經十幾年了。她是個完全的吃貨,在東京居住的十年期間于藍帶學習了法式料理和甜點,更在旅途中更嚐遍了各地的美味並將它們帶回了自己的餐廳,分享給同樣熱愛美食的客人們…正如她菜單第一頁所描述的。

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[Shanghai 上海] Garden Terrace at PuLi Hotel 璞麗酒店花園露台

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Garden Terrace at PuLi Hotel

Add: 1 Changde Road
Tel: 2216 6996
Hours: 7am-1am (afernoon tea 2:30pm-5:30pm)
Price: tea set 300 RMB/person + 10% service charge & 6% tax
Visited: Apr 2017

Please note that this was an arranged tasting.

Spring in Shanghai is ever so pleasant yet short-lived, so when it is upon us, it’s pretty much obligatory to spend as much time outdoor as possible. A most ideal patio choice would be Garden Terrace at the PuLi Hotel, which, incidentally, has always been one of my favorite hotels in town. The property is conveniently located at the heart of Jing’an District, yet somehow manages to shield out all the hustle and bustle, imbuing a sense of zen to all that enters its grounds. I think you might like it too.

最近春暖花開,一心念著要找個露台享受一下上海(肯定非常短暫)的完美天氣。首先想到的,就是璞麗酒店的露天花園。璞麗是我在上海最喜歡的酒店之一,地點位于非常便利的靜安區中心地帶,但一切吵雜似乎都被隔離在竹簾之外,一步入大堂就能感受到令人平靜的禅意。我想,你應該也會喜歡。

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The lush and quiet Garden Terrace, just a wall apart from Jing’an Park, is blessed with cool breeze, sunshine, and comfortably furnished with sofa and daybeds…lay down, sip on a cup of tea or a glass of champagne, and let all worries melt away.

這裏的露天花園與靜安公園僅僅一牆之隔,享受得到茂盛的綠蔭,而且非常隱秘安靜。有水池、有微風、有陽光、有沙發、有躺椅…無比惬意。

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[Shanghai 上海] Brute Cake Cafe

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Brut Cake Cafe

Add: 698 Yuyuan Road
Tel: 173 2100 8129
Hours: [Mon-Fri] 7am-9pm [Weekend] 10am-8pm
Price: 80~100 RMB/person
Visited: Apr 2017

My first time encountering Taiwanese designer Nicole Teng’s works was about 7 years ago in Plum Gallery, and right there and then I was charmed by her cute hand-drawn faces. Upon returning from Paris in 2015, I was pleased to discover that Nicole has opened a showroom called Brut Cake on Anfu Lu, though I was also slightly disappointed that there’s no actual cake in the shop…then, just earlier this year, Brut Cake Cafe opened, and yes they do sell cakes!

第一次見到台灣設計師 Nicole Teng 的手繪臉孔,應該是七年前的事情了吧。當時靜安別墅裏有個叫做 Plum Gallery 的空間,我到訪時正好展著 Nicole 的一些作品,各式各樣的手繪臉孔我一下就喜歡上了。幾年後從巴黎回來,發現她在安福路上開了家以自己品牌 Brut Cake 爲名的雜貨店,正想著爲什麽店名有 “cake” 而店裏卻沒有蛋糕的時候,真的有賣蛋糕的 Brut Cake Cafe 就在今年開幕了。

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Located on Yuyuan Road, Brut Cake Cafe is designed in the same warm and soothing style as Brut Cake, with a sunny patio and wood-centric furniture. The most prominent feature, without a doubt, is the mug display on the wall showcasing 100 different hand-drawn faces, the ones that attracted me in the first place years ago.

位于愚園路的 Brut Cake Cafe 延續了 Brut Cake 返璞歸真的設計理念,有陽光滿分的露台和木質色系爲主的家具,一切都讓人感覺溫暖舒服…不過最引人注目的,還是牆上擺設著的一百只不同手繪臉孔的馬克杯 - 永澤洋蔥頭、花輪劉海、卷毛小胡子…你看上了,哪一個?

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[Shanghai 上海] Tai’an Table 2.0 泰安門 2.0

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Tai’an Table

Add: /
Tel: /
Website: www.taian-table.com
Hours: Tue-Sat 6pm-12am
Price: 1088/10 courses, 1388RMB/14 courses
Visited: Feb 2017

Please note that this was an arranged tasting.

I’ve written about Stefan Stiller’s Tai’an Table last April when this hidden restaurant first opened (click here to read), and it wasn’t long before it was awarded a Michelin star. To everyone’s surprise, however, Tai’an Table got shut down the very next day due to license issues, officially making it the shortest-lived Michelin restaurant in history. Talk about being dramatic.

去年四月泰安門剛開時,我曾寫過這家地址和電話都不公開的隱藏餐廳(沒看過這篇的人可以點擊這裏閱讀)。由德國名廚 Stefan Stiller 親自把關的創意料理在開業不久後獲得了米其林一星,整個團隊開心地喝香槟慶祝,卻沒想到得獎第二天就因爲證照不全而被迫停業,成爲史上壽命最短的米其林餐廳。

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But the incident turned out to be positive after all, as Tai’an Table got unprecedented media attention from both in and outside of China, including majors ones like the BBC. They quickly got reorganized and opened Tai’an Table 2.0 last December, at a new location near the intersection of Zhenning Lu and Xinzha Lu. Let’s take a look.

不過塞翁失馬焉知非福,泰安門因此上了不少國內外的大小媒體(包括英國 BBC),反倒打響了餐廳的名氣。去年 12 月他們整裝重啓,將泰安門 2.0 開在了鎮寧路新閘路口附近的巷弄裏。

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Keeping the design from version 1, Tai’an Table 2.0 is an open kitchen surrounded by 22 bar seats, with two tables of four on the side.

沿襲一店的設計,這裏有環繞著開放式廚房的 22 個座位以及兩個 4 人卡座,坐滿也只有30個位子,走的是精致路線。

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On the second floor, there is a bar in collaboration with Leroy Champagne – a nice place to have an aperitif while taking a sneak peek at the kitchen below through the slender windows.

二樓還有個和 Leroy 香槟合作的酒吧,可以餐前來這裏喝一杯,也可以透過窗戶看到樓下廚房的動靜。

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[Shanghai 上海] Chop Chop Club

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Chop Chop Club

Add: 2F, Three on the Bund, 1 Zhongshandongyi Lu
Tel: 5308 5399
Hours: seats at 6:30-7pm and 8-8:30pm
Price: 400~500 rmb/person
Visited: Feb 2017

Please note that this was an arranged tasting.

If you’ve been eating and drinking in Shanghai, you should know the name Paul Pairet (PP). This French chef has created many climaxes in the F&B scene here since his arrival in 2005 – Jade on 36 at Shangri-la Pudong, Mr & Mrs Bund at Bund 18, and Ultraviolet, the all-immersive dining experience that ranked #24 on World’s 50 Best Restaurants (in addition to two Michelin stars) in 2016. His most recent project, titled “Chop Chop Club” in collaboration with Unico, just opened a week ago and immediately became (unsurprisingly) the hotspot on the bund.

常在上海吃喝的人,對 Paul Pairet (PP) 這個名字一定不陌生。這位法國大廚自 2005 年以來在上海創造了各種餐飲界的高潮,比如浦東香格裏拉的 Jade on 36、比如外灘 18 號的 Mr & Mrs Bund,比如名列 World’s 50 Best Restaurants、去年得到米其林二星的全方位感官餐廳 Ultraviolet。最近他和外灘三號的 Unico 合開了一家名爲 Chop Chop Club 的餐廳,開幕才一周,已(不意外地)成爲外灘上最受矚目的新寵兒。

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Decor at Unico has remained largely unchanged, the only conspicuous difference being the addition of two large electronic screens detailing the carvery menu, constantly updated with time, price, and pieces left. Like this:

“18:30|cote de boeuf|650/portion, 1300/whole”
“19:45|grilled seabass|140/portion, 700/whole”
“20:15|char-roasted chicken|180/portion, 320/whole”

You will notice, upon closer inspection, that the first few items had already been sold out. Why yes, the dishes here go fast, so chop chop and order whatever you fancy before they are snatched by other tables, otherwise there’s no choice but to come back another evening.

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走進餐廳一看,Unico 的布置沒有太大的改動,不過架起了兩座電子屏幕。屏幕上寫著每晚更新的 carvery 菜單以及每種料理出爐的具體時間、價格、以及所剩份數,比如:

“18:30|烤肉眼|單份650元,整份1300元”
“19:45|香烤鲈魚|單份140元、整份700元”
“20:15|炭火烤雞|單份180元、整份320元”

仔細一看,前面幾款都已 sold out?!沒錯,這裏的美食不等人, 店名中的 “chop chop” 在英文裏的意思就是 “快一點”,所以在屏幕上看到自己想點的菜別忘了趕緊和服務員下單,一旦賣光就要下次再來吃啦。

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[Shanghai 上海] Bo Shanghai

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Bo Shanghai

Add: 6/F, Bund 5, 5 Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu
Tel: 5383 3656
Hours: 6:30-11pm
Price: set menu 1500 RMB + 10%, with wine pairing 2200 RMB + 10%
Visited: Oct 2016

Please note that this was an invited tasting arranged by the restaurant.

I haven’t been to Bo Innovation in Hong Kong, but I have heard quite a lot about this much-debated Three Michelin star restaurant and its self-proclaimed “demon chef” Alvin Leung. London-born, Canada-raised Alvin was originally an engineer, and after teaching himself how to cook, he opened Bo Innovation in his 40s and quickly won two Michelin stars (subsequently three stars, and the restaurant is also currently ranked #28 in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants). His brand new Bo Shanghai recently soft-opened, and before it officially launches at the end of this month, let’s go have a sneak peek.

請注意本次為餐廳安排試吃。

沒有吃過香港的 Bo Innovation,不過對這家爭議不斷的米其林三星餐廳和其自稱 “廚魔” 的主廚 Alvin Leung 早有耳聞。倫敦出生、加拿大長大的 Alvin 本是工程師,自學廚藝後在40幾歲時開了自己第一家餐廳 Bo Innovation,並迅速得到了米其林得青睐(目前也名列 “世界最佳50餐廳” 第28位)。最近他在上海外灘五號的 Bo Shanghai 開始試運營,聽說月底要正式開幕,趕在那之前,先來嚐嚐。

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Arriving on the 6th floor of Bund Five, I was led through Bistro Daimon (another new concept by Alvin) to the hidden Bo Shanghai. So it does seem like everything needs to be hidden these days…like Tai’an Table (which was recently awarded one Michelin star but had to close due to license issues) or Speak Low (a perpetually packed speakeasy bar by famed Japanese bartender Shingo Gokan). Bo Shanghai has just 26 seats (including 6 at the bar) with a nice view of the bund, though the view really isn’t the focus here…

抵達外灘五號的6樓,先經過 Bistro Daimon,在服務人員的引導下來到藏在牆後的 Bo Shanghai。現在的餐廳(比如剛得米其林一星就被迫關門的泰安門)和酒吧(像是穿過角落的書架方得入內的Speak Low),為何都流行藏起來?Anyway,進入 Bo Shanghai 後發現其實地方很小,位子就26個,夜景挺美的(不過來這裡吃飯,夜景應該不是重點哦…)

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The two chefs at Bo Shanghai (DeAille and Simon, the two on the right in the photo below) are both Cantonese who grew up in Toronto, and before arriving in Shanghai they were working with Alvin for over two years in Bo Innovation.

Bo Shanghai 的兩位主廚(下圖右邊二位)是在多倫多長大的香港人,來上海之前在 Bo Innovation 工作了兩年多。女主廚 DeAille 說話非常客氣,有空時會很詳細的分享他們的料理故事。男主廚 Simon 說起話來很活潑,有種天然的喜感(喂,這樣說別人好嗎?)。我坐在吧台前用餐,邊吃邊和他們兩位聊天,學習了不少有趣的事情。

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Bo Shanghai’s 10-course tasting menu (1500 RMB + 10%, with wine pairing 2200 RMB + 10%) is inspired by the traditional cuisine from China’s 8 different regions, in fusion with French techniques, and is completely different from the offerings in Hong Kong. To start, here are the amuse bouche: croissant with scallion oil filling, and a Chinese bun with black truffles and comté cheese.

Bo Shanghai 的菜色將來自于中國八大菜系的靈感與法國料理做了結合,呈現的是和香港店完全不同的創意。目前只有一個10道菜的套餐,價格 1500 RMB + 10%(配酒套餐 2200 RMB + 10%)。從開胃的 amuse bouche 和面包就已經能嚐到主廚們的融合概念,比如這個放了蔥油的可頌,以及加了黑松露和法國的 comté 芝士的中式花卷。

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[Shanghai 上海] Pierre Marcolini

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Pierre Marcolini

Add: 206, K11 Shopping Mall, 300 Middle Huaihai Road
Tel: 6333 7318
Hours: 10am-10pm
Price: [chocolate] 20-22 RMB/ea [macaron] 250 RMB/ea (pre-packaged boxes available)
Visited: Jun 2016

I passed by a Pierre Marcolini boutique five years ago in Brussels by chance, and, without knowing anything about this brand, bought two boxes of chocolates just because the shop was pretty. Some post hoc research told me that Pierre Marcolini won the title of World Champion of Pastry in 1995, and has shops not only in Brussels, but also in Paris, London, Tokyo, Monaco, Luxembourg etc. In fact, he is kind of a big deal.

五年前在布魯塞爾閒逛時,曾無意間經過一家非常漂亮的巧克力店。擡頭一看,名字是 ”Pierre Marcolini“…嗯,沒聽過,不過樣子似乎很厲害,那就買兩盒試試吧。後來才知道 Pierre Marcolini 是位出名的比利時巧克力大師,1995 年在法國裏昂得到世界甜點冠軍之後,于布魯塞爾開了自己的第一家巧克力店,現在在巴黎、倫敦、東京、摩納哥等地方也都能看到他的作品。

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But it wasn’t until moving to Paris that I got to know a bit more about this chocolatier, mostly through a French TV show I used to follow called “Qui Sera Le Prochain Grand Pâtissier” (Who Will be the Next Big Pastry Chef”), in which Pierre Marcolini was one of the four judges.

不過其實對這位巧克力師更多的印象,是來自我後來住巴黎時看的一個叫做 “Qui Sera Le Prochain Grand Pâtissier”(誰會成爲下一個甜點大師)的電視節目。這是個幾乎所有法國甜點師都會看的節目,我當時也不例外的每周追隨,而 Pierre Marcolini 就是四位大有來頭的評審之一。

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And just last week, his boutique opened in Shanghai. So far it’s a temporary pop-up on the second floor of K11 shopping mall, though a tea salon is scheduled open in October – something to look forward to. On an unrelated note, even the doorknobs are in the shape of Marcolini’s signature chocolate squares…how cute!

就在上周,他的巧克力店在上海開幕了。地點位于 K11 的二樓,目前只是暫時的零售 pop-up store,十月份會開有座位的 salon de thé,除了有巧克力之外,聽說還會有別的驚喜?不知道是甜點還是冰淇淋還是什麽,總之令人有些期待。(連門把都是 Marcolini 巧克力磚的造型,可愛。)

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Et voilà voilà, les chocolats.

店裏主打的自然是巧克力。

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[Shanghai 上海] Cafe 385

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Cafe 385

Add: Huashan Road (please contact below wechat for details)
Wechat: andrew_wu_china
Hours: reservation only
Price: hand drip coffee 50-65 RMB
Visited: May 2016

The other day at Moon Coffee I casually asked their barista A-Tang where he goes for coffee in Shanghai. After some thoughts, he told me about this “coffee bar inside an apartment building”, and without quite explaining what it is, he gave me the barista contact. Always curious about these hidden places, I made a reservation right away for a visit.

之前在月球和阿堂閒聊時,隨口問了身爲咖啡師的他平時會去哪裏喝咖啡。慢條斯理地想了想後,他告訴我有一家 “公寓裏的咖啡館”,具體是個什麽樣的地方他也沒說清楚,總之把店主的聯系方式給了我。這種隱藏起來的地方我最有興趣了,約好時間,就這麽去了。

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The space is located on the 2nd floor of an apartment building on Huashan Road, and only upon entering did I find out its name –  “Cafe 385”.  It’s a charming place with soft natural light, antique-looking furniture, and chairs that fit just right.

這個空間位于華山路上一間老公寓的二樓,直到進門後我才知道它叫做 Cafe 385。起居室裏陽光柔和、空氣安靜、家具擺飾看起來熟悉、椅子也正好合身。咖啡吧後面站的就是這裏的主人 Andrew,大家都叫他小安。

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Behind the coffee bar is Andrew from Taiwan, who is still very fresh to Shanghai. Before this coffee venture, he was working in Sony Taiwan doing photography tutorials and sales training for DSLRs. As for coffee, he started drinking it at the age of 17, and since then has met quite a few coffee experts and afficionados. He came to China for the first time last March to attend a coffee expo, fell in love with the Former French Concession area, and decided to stay for a while.

小安,30來歲的台灣人,做咖啡師之前其實是個攝影師,在台灣 Sony 工作了好一段時間,主要負責單眼相機和一些其他産品的銷售訓練和攝影教學。十七歲開始喝咖啡以來陸陸續續地結識不少咖啡人與咖啡愛好者,去年三月來上海參加咖啡展會時愛上了舊法租界,決定在這裏待上一陣子。

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Continue Reading "[Shanghai 上海] Cafe 385"