Archive for the ‘Shanghai food blog’ tag
Hours: Tue-Sat 6pm-12am
Price: 1088/10 courses, 1388RMB/14 courses
Visited: Feb 2017
Please note that this was an arranged tasting.
I’ve written about Stefan Stiller’s Tai’an Table last April when this hidden restaurant first opened (click here to read), and it wasn’t long before it was awarded a Michelin star. To everyone’s surprise, however, Tai’an Table got shut down the very next day due to license issues, officially making it the shortest-lived Michelin restaurant in history. Talk about being dramatic.
去年四月泰安門剛開時，我曾寫過這家地址和電話都不公開的隱藏餐廳（沒看過這篇的人可以點擊這裏閱讀）。由德國名廚 Stefan Stiller 親自把關的創意料理在開業不久後獲得了米其林一星，整個團隊開心地喝香槟慶祝，卻沒想到得獎第二天就因爲證照不全而被迫停業，成爲史上壽命最短的米其林餐廳。
But the incident turned out to be positive after all, as Tai’an Table got unprecedented media attention from both in and outside of China, including majors ones like the BBC. They quickly got reorganized and opened Tai’an Table 2.0 last December, at a new location near the intersection of Zhenning Lu and Xinzha Lu. Let’s take a look.
不過塞翁失馬焉知非福，泰安門因此上了不少國內外的大小媒體（包括英國 BBC），反倒打響了餐廳的名氣。去年 12 月他們整裝重啓，將泰安門 2.0 開在了鎮寧路新閘路口附近的巷弄裏。
Keeping the design from version 1, Tai’an Table 2.0 is an open kitchen surrounded by 22 bar seats, with two tables of four on the side.
沿襲一店的設計，這裏有環繞著開放式廚房的 22 個座位以及兩個 4 人卡座，坐滿也只有30個位子，走的是精致路線。
On the second floor, there is a bar in collaboration with Leroy Champagne – a nice place to have an aperitif while taking a sneak peek at the kitchen below through the slender windows.
二樓還有個和 Leroy 香槟合作的酒吧，可以餐前來這裏喝一杯，也可以透過窗戶看到樓下廚房的動靜。
Chop Chop Club
Add: 2F, Three on the Bund, 1 Zhongshandongyi Lu
Tel: 5308 5399
Hours: seats at 6:30-7pm and 8-8:30pm
Price: 400~500 rmb/person
Visited: Feb 2017
Please note that this was an arranged tasting.
If you’ve been eating and drinking in Shanghai, you should know the name Paul Pairet (PP). This French chef has created many climaxes in the F&B scene here since his arrival in 2005 – Jade on 36 at Shangri-la Pudong, Mr & Mrs Bund at Bund 18, and Ultraviolet, the all-immersive dining experience that ranked #24 on World’s 50 Best Restaurants (in addition to two Michelin stars) in 2016. His most recent project, titled “Chop Chop Club” in collaboration with Unico, just opened a week ago and immediately became (unsurprisingly) the hotspot on the bund.
常在上海吃喝的人，對 Paul Pairet (PP) 這個名字一定不陌生。這位法國大廚自 2005 年以來在上海創造了各種餐飲界的高潮，比如浦東香格裏拉的 Jade on 36、比如外灘 18 號的 Mr & Mrs Bund，比如名列 World’s 50 Best Restaurants、去年得到米其林二星的全方位感官餐廳 Ultraviolet。最近他和外灘三號的 Unico 合開了一家名爲 Chop Chop Club 的餐廳，開幕才一周，已（不意外地）成爲外灘上最受矚目的新寵兒。
Decor at Unico has remained largely unchanged, the only conspicuous difference being the addition of two large electronic screens detailing the carvery menu, constantly updated with time, price, and pieces left. Like this:
“18:30｜cote de boeuf｜650/portion, 1300/whole”
“19:45｜grilled seabass｜140/portion, 700/whole”
“20:15｜char-roasted chicken｜180/portion, 320/whole”
You will notice, upon closer inspection, that the first few items had already been sold out. Why yes, the dishes here go fast, so chop chop and order whatever you fancy before they are snatched by other tables, otherwise there’s no choice but to come back another evening.
走進餐廳一看，Unico 的布置沒有太大的改動，不過架起了兩座電子屏幕。屏幕上寫著每晚更新的 carvery 菜單以及每種料理出爐的具體時間、價格、以及所剩份數，比如：
仔細一看，前面幾款都已 sold out？！沒錯，這裏的美食不等人， 店名中的 “chop chop” 在英文裏的意思就是 “快一點”，所以在屏幕上看到自己想點的菜別忘了趕緊和服務員下單，一旦賣光就要下次再來吃啦。
Add: 6/F, Bund 5, 5 Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu
Tel: 5383 3656
Price: set menu 1500 RMB + 10%, with wine pairing 2200 RMB + 10%
Visited: Oct 2016
Please note that this was an invited tasting arranged by the restaurant.
I haven’t been to Bo Innovation in Hong Kong, but I have heard quite a lot about this much-debated Three Michelin star restaurant and its self-proclaimed “demon chef” Alvin Leung. London-born, Canada-raised Alvin was originally an engineer, and after teaching himself how to cook, he opened Bo Innovation in his 40s and quickly won two Michelin stars (subsequently three stars, and the restaurant is also currently ranked #28 in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants). His brand new Bo Shanghai recently soft-opened, and before it officially launches at the end of this month, let’s go have a sneak peek.
沒有吃過香港的 Bo Innovation，不過對這家爭議不斷的米其林三星餐廳和其自稱 “廚魔” 的主廚 Alvin Leung 早有耳聞。倫敦出生、加拿大長大的 Alvin 本是工程師，自學廚藝後在40幾歲時開了自己第一家餐廳 Bo Innovation，並迅速得到了米其林得青睐（目前也名列 “世界最佳50餐廳” 第28位）。最近他在上海外灘五號的 Bo Shanghai 開始試運營，聽說月底要正式開幕，趕在那之前，先來嚐嚐。
Arriving on the 6th floor of Bund Five, I was led through Bistro Daimon (another new concept by Alvin) to the hidden Bo Shanghai. So it does seem like everything needs to be hidden these days…like Tai’an Table (which was recently awarded one Michelin star but had to close due to license issues) or Speak Low (a perpetually packed speakeasy bar by famed Japanese bartender Shingo Gokan). Bo Shanghai has just 26 seats (including 6 at the bar) with a nice view of the bund, though the view really isn’t the focus here…
抵達外灘五號的6樓，先經過 Bistro Daimon，在服務人員的引導下來到藏在牆後的 Bo Shanghai。現在的餐廳（比如剛得米其林一星就被迫關門的泰安門）和酒吧（像是穿過角落的書架方得入內的Speak Low），為何都流行藏起來？Anyway，進入 Bo Shanghai 後發現其實地方很小，位子就26個，夜景挺美的（不過來這裡吃飯，夜景應該不是重點哦…）
The two chefs at Bo Shanghai (DeAille and Simon, the two on the right in the photo below) are both Cantonese who grew up in Toronto, and before arriving in Shanghai they were working with Alvin for over two years in Bo Innovation.
Bo Shanghai 的兩位主廚（下圖右邊二位）是在多倫多長大的香港人，來上海之前在 Bo Innovation 工作了兩年多。女主廚 DeAille 說話非常客氣，有空時會很詳細的分享他們的料理故事。男主廚 Simon 說起話來很活潑，有種天然的喜感（喂，這樣說別人好嗎？）。我坐在吧台前用餐，邊吃邊和他們兩位聊天，學習了不少有趣的事情。
Bo Shanghai’s 10-course tasting menu (1500 RMB + 10%, with wine pairing 2200 RMB + 10%) is inspired by the traditional cuisine from China’s 8 different regions, in fusion with French techniques, and is completely different from the offerings in Hong Kong. To start, here are the amuse bouche: croissant with scallion oil filling, and a Chinese bun with black truffles and comté cheese.
Bo Shanghai 的菜色將來自于中國八大菜系的靈感與法國料理做了結合，呈現的是和香港店完全不同的創意。目前只有一個10道菜的套餐，價格 1500 RMB + 10%（配酒套餐 2200 RMB + 10%)。從開胃的 amuse bouche 和面包就已經能嚐到主廚們的融合概念，比如這個放了蔥油的可頌，以及加了黑松露和法國的 comté 芝士的中式花卷。
Add: 206, K11 Shopping Mall, 300 Middle Huaihai Road
Tel: 6333 7318
Price: [chocolate] 20-22 RMB/ea [macaron] 250 RMB/ea (pre-packaged boxes available)
Visited: Jun 2016
I passed by a Pierre Marcolini boutique five years ago in Brussels by chance, and, without knowing anything about this brand, bought two boxes of chocolates just because the shop was pretty. Some post hoc research told me that Pierre Marcolini won the title of World Champion of Pastry in 1995, and has shops not only in Brussels, but also in Paris, London, Tokyo, Monaco, Luxembourg etc. In fact, he is kind of a big deal.
五年前在布魯塞爾閒逛時，曾無意間經過一家非常漂亮的巧克力店。擡頭一看，名字是 ”Pierre Marcolini“…嗯，沒聽過，不過樣子似乎很厲害，那就買兩盒試試吧。後來才知道 Pierre Marcolini 是位出名的比利時巧克力大師，1995 年在法國裏昂得到世界甜點冠軍之後，于布魯塞爾開了自己的第一家巧克力店，現在在巴黎、倫敦、東京、摩納哥等地方也都能看到他的作品。
But it wasn’t until moving to Paris that I got to know a bit more about this chocolatier, mostly through a French TV show I used to follow called “Qui Sera Le Prochain Grand Pâtissier” (Who Will be the Next Big Pastry Chef”), in which Pierre Marcolini was one of the four judges.
不過其實對這位巧克力師更多的印象，是來自我後來住巴黎時看的一個叫做 “Qui Sera Le Prochain Grand Pâtissier”（誰會成爲下一個甜點大師）的電視節目。這是個幾乎所有法國甜點師都會看的節目，我當時也不例外的每周追隨，而 Pierre Marcolini 就是四位大有來頭的評審之一。
And just last week, his boutique opened in Shanghai. So far it’s a temporary pop-up on the second floor of K11 shopping mall, though a tea salon is scheduled open in October – something to look forward to. On an unrelated note, even the doorknobs are in the shape of Marcolini’s signature chocolate squares…how cute!
就在上周，他的巧克力店在上海開幕了。地點位于 K11 的二樓，目前只是暫時的零售 pop-up store，十月份會開有座位的 salon de thé，除了有巧克力之外，聽說還會有別的驚喜？不知道是甜點還是冰淇淋還是什麽，總之令人有些期待。（連門把都是 Marcolini 巧克力磚的造型，可愛。）
Et voilà voilà, les chocolats.
Add: Huashan Road (please contact below wechat for details)
Hours: reservation only
Price: hand drip coffee 50-65 RMB
Visited: May 2016
The other day at Moon Coffee I casually asked their barista A-Tang where he goes for coffee in Shanghai. After some thoughts, he told me about this “coffee bar inside an apartment building”, and without quite explaining what it is, he gave me the barista contact. Always curious about these hidden places, I made a reservation right away for a visit.
The space is located on the 2nd floor of an apartment building on Huashan Road, and only upon entering did I find out its name – “Cafe 385”. It’s a charming place with soft natural light, antique-looking furniture, and chairs that fit just right.
這個空間位于華山路上一間老公寓的二樓，直到進門後我才知道它叫做 Cafe 385。起居室裏陽光柔和、空氣安靜、家具擺飾看起來熟悉、椅子也正好合身。咖啡吧後面站的就是這裏的主人 Andrew，大家都叫他小安。
Behind the coffee bar is Andrew from Taiwan, who is still very fresh to Shanghai. Before this coffee venture, he was working in Sony Taiwan doing photography tutorials and sales training for DSLRs. As for coffee, he started drinking it at the age of 17, and since then has met quite a few coffee experts and afficionados. He came to China for the first time last March to attend a coffee expo, fell in love with the Former French Concession area, and decided to stay for a while.
小安，30來歲的台灣人，做咖啡師之前其實是個攝影師，在台灣 Sony 工作了好一段時間，主要負責單眼相機和一些其他産品的銷售訓練和攝影教學。十七歲開始喝咖啡以來陸陸續續地結識不少咖啡人與咖啡愛好者，去年三月來上海參加咖啡展會時愛上了舊法租界，決定在這裏待上一陣子。
Add: 17-2 North Xiangyang Road
Tel: 6433 0538
Hours: 7pm-2am (closed on Mon)
Price: 80-95 RMB/cocktail
Visited on: Apr 2016
So Flask is moving because of land issues (new location TBD), and in the meanwhile their second project has already opened its doors. The new bar is called Botanist, apparently they got the inspiration when watching The Martian, in which Matt Damon plays the role of an astronaut/botanist stranded alone on Mars. It’s just a matter of time before this place gets packed everyday, so let’s go now to see what drinks they’ve got…
之前介紹過的 Flask 因爲地的原因要搬家了，新的地點還未確定，而我爲了將要有一段時間吃不到他們美味 grill cheese sandwich 在難過時，老板們的第二家酒吧已默默開幕。新的店名叫 Botanist，說是看到 “The Martian火星人” 裏 Matt Damon 演的生物學家這個角色時得到的靈感。趁他們剛開幕還不需要等位，先去嚐嚐鮮。
The style of Botanist is completely different from that of Flask – it is not a hidden speakeasy, but rather a street-side bar in plain view. There are floor-to-ceiling windows that can be opened up completely, and there’s a lovely patio bound to be highly sought-after as the weather warms up. True to the “botanist” concept, there are plants everywhere in the space, and not only does that make it all green and pretty, it actually smells really nice right near the herb wall too. And very importantly, there’s a no smoking policy at Botanist – weee!
Botanist 和 Flas k的風格截然不同，並非隱藏的 speakeasy，而是一目了然的街邊酒吧，有可以整面打開的落地窗和舒服的露台，這個春夏肯定會大受歡迎。利落的線條加上冷色調的白光，走的是有點未來感的設計。以 botanist 植物學家爲概念，空間裏四處都有植物，不僅綠油油的很好看，走近香草牆時真的會聞到淡淡的香味。此外，Botanist 室內禁煙這點更是另我開心。
Fu He Hui 福和慧
Add: 1037 Yuyuan Lu, near Jiangsu Lu
Tel: 3980 9188
Hours: 11am-2pm, 5:30-11pm
Price: 380-880 RMB/person
Visited: Apr 2016
福和慧 – Fu (fortune), He (harmony), Hui (wisdom) – is the fine dining vegetarian restaurant by Fang Yuan and Tony Lu, who have established a solid reputation through their Fu series (Fu 1039, Fu 1088, and Fu 1055), all sharing a penchant of refined Shanghainese dishes in nostalgic old villas. Fu He Hui has also been attracting its fair share of attention since opening in 2015, and is ranked #19 on the latest Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants.
美國來玩的朋友說想去吃一頓精致的中國菜，最近正好看到福和慧在今年 “亞洲50佳餐廳” 排名第19，又有不少朋友推薦，于是就把晚餐訂在這裏了。說福和慧是家素菜館，可不是一般的素菜館。這裏的老板早在幾年前就打造了一系列非常出名的 “福” 餐廳，旗下有福1039，1088，和1015。這幾家我先後都去過，雖然是好幾年前的事了，不過對這些洋房裏的精致上海菜印象一直不錯，有朋友來上海玩，不要求環境的我會帶去老吉士，要求環境的話就去福。
The vegetarian restaurant offers a few prix fixe menus at three different price points: 380, 680 and 880 RMB per person, all coming with 8 courses. We decided to try one of the two 880 RMB sets to see what the chef has got in his repertoire.
First, a pot of 奇丹 Qi Dan (188 RMB), a famous varietal of Oolong tea from Wuyi.
Dinner started with two amuse bouche. The first: roast potato with pumpkin and micro coriander.
Salon de Thé de Joël Robuchon
Add: 1F No. 18 Zhong Shan Dong Yi Road
Tel: 6070 8888
Price: [Afternoon Tea] 328 RMB/person, 588 RMB/2 persons [a la carte] 65-88 RMB
Visited: Apr 2016
Please note that this was an invited tasting.
So, Robuchon is finally in Shanghai. He who owns the most number of Michelin stars in the world recently opened his first L’Atelier and Salon de Thé ever on mainland China, both located in Bund 18. Let’s go take a look.
終于，Robuchon來了。這位在全世界擁有最多顆米其林星星的 “世紀名廚”，這兩周先後在上海外灘 18 號開了他在中國內地的第一家餐廳 L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon 以及茶室 Salon de Thé。不囉唆，去瞧瞧。
On the first floor is Robuchon’s pastry boutique, displaying rows of alluring cakes, macarons, chocolates, and breads. The design is his signature red and black, the stark contrast is sleek and eye-catching.
一樓進去首先是 Robuchon 的面包甜點店，陳列著各式令人垂涎欲滴的蛋糕、馬卡龍、巧克力、和面包。裝潢風格是 Robuchon 一貫的紅黑色強烈對比。
Add: 408 Shanxi Bei Lu, near Beijing Xi Lu / 陕西北路408号, 近北京西路
Tel: 6288 8773
Price: 100 RMB+
Visited: Mar 2016
Dropped by Daliah for lunch last week and it still felt like Chinese New Year there with these giant red lanterns hanging down for the ceiling. Since its opening last summer, this Austrian restaurant has been known for its quirky design – a few prominent features are the swings and that metallic slide twirling down from the second floor. I’ve been here once for lunch and once for breakfast, the food was ok on both visits – nothing impressive, nothing atrocious – but perhaps I shouldn’t judge until I’ve tried its dinner, when the more Austrian dishes like the spatzel are served.
Add: 215 Fumin Road, near Julu Road
Tel: 5466 6021
Price: [coffee] 20-65 RMB [pastry] 8-42 RMB
Visited: Mar 2016
Brought to you by the owner of Flask (and designed by the same Italian designer Alberto Caiola), Fumi Coffee is a most stylish addition to Shanghai’s booming cafe scene. The eye-catcher of this space is no doubt the wall of Bialetti Moka light fixtures, but everything else – including the black waves hovering up on the ceiling, the sleek metallic tables, stools, counter, and the front window that folds up completely on warm days – has me (and the rest of Shanghai, it seems) falling head over heels.
Another cafe?! 嗯，上海的咖啡店一間接著一間開，不過富民路上這個新成員Fumi Coffee，閃亮的讓你不得不注意它。整個空間的設計 － 包括牆上大大小小的 Bialetti 摩卡壺、天花板的巨型黑浪、銀色鏡面桌椅和工作台、還有可以完全往上收起的大片玻璃 － 都令人驚豔。偷偷告訴你，Fumi Coffee 和陝西南路上的 Flask 是同一位老板，設計師也延用了之前打造 Flask 的意大利事務所 Alberto Caiola。做出來的效果，極酷炫。