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[Shanghai 上海] Black Truffle Menu 2019 黑松露品嚐套餐

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Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire

Add: 480 Jian Guo West Road, Shanghai
Tel: (021) 5466 9928
Hours: 7am-10pm
Price: [lunch] 298-358 RMB+10% [dinner] 800RMB+
Visited: Jan 2019

Compared to its light-hearted lunch, dinner at Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire is usually quite a formal affair with more complex dishes – not my usual go-to spot as I generally prefer casual meals. I do, however, make exceptions for special occasions like their Black Truffle Menu collaboration with 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana last month.

相較午餐而言,Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire 的晚餐菜色繁複,氣氛正式,喜歡輕松的我其實不常光顧…除非有特殊場合,比如上個月他們和上海 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana 主廚 Riccardo La Perna 聯手的黑松露品嚐套餐。

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First, a little blurb on truffles. These prized fungi can be categorized into winter white truffles (the most rare and extremely expensive), winter black truffles (less rare than white truffles but still expensive), and summer black truffles (can be found in more abundance and are often processed to make truffle sauce etc.). This particular 4-hand dinner is centered around winter black truffle (a.k.a. Tuber Melanosporum), and its unique aroma hit me right as I stepped into the dining room…

先來一段小科普。松露分爲冬季白松露(最稀少且極爲昂貴),冬季黑松露(産量比白松露多但仍價格不菲),以及夏季黑松露(産量較多,常被做成松露醬等副産品)。這次餐會用的是新鮮冬季黑松露(Tuber Melanosporum),一踏入餐廳,那獨特的香氣撲鼻而來…

DSC09193Chef Riccardo La Perna from 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana  

DSC09175Chef Romain Chapel from Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire

Dinner started with Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire’s seaweed jelly and baby turnips, shellfish seasoned with onion jus, green apple and cucumber, ricotta and crispy lotus roots, piquant salad – a light and refreshing starter, and the only dish of the evening that came without truffles.

晚宴從一道 Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire 的清爽前菜開始(也是當晚唯一一道沒有松露的菜):海藻凍、小圓蘿蔔、貝類、青蘋果、黃瓜、乳清奶酪、香脆藕片、開胃沙拉。

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The second dish is 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana’s Australian Mayura wagyu beef tataki. Australian Mayura wagyu is also known as “chocolate wagyu” as parts of the cows’ diet includes milk chocolate and hazelnuts, resulting in a unique  sweetness, hint of nuttiness and buttery texture. Riccardo seasoned the Mayura wagyu beef tataki with white balsamic vinegar dressing and fresh winter black truffle, the combination is simply to die for.

第二道是來自 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana 的澳洲 Mayura 和牛薄片。澳洲 Mayura 和牛又稱 “巧克力和牛”,因爲他們在進入第30個月的肥育期時會開始被餵食牛奶巧克力、榛果等,因此肌紋開始生出油花,甜度增高。Riccardo 將珍貴的 Mayura 和牛微微炙烤過後配上白酒醋汁和冬季黑松露,那肉質柔軟又濃郁,令人銷魂。

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From Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire: Hokkaido scallop mousseline, celeriac/artichoke/cuttlefish, fresh winter black truffle. Though it came after the incredibly tender and flavorful Mayura wagyu beef, the natural sweetness of the Hokkaido scallops was no less tempting.

Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire:北海道扇貝慕斯、芹根/洋薊/目魚、冬季黑松露。雖然跟在 Mayura 和牛之後,北海道扇貝的鮮甜仍然毫不失色,十分迷人。

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8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana:handmade tagliatelle, parmigiano, fresh winter black truffle. Riccardo made a classic pasta using semolina and egg yolk, then cooked it in an aromatic stock of cauliflower, hazelnuts etc so that its flavor both matches and is enhanced by that of the winter black truffle. Probably the most memorable pasta I’ve had in a while!

8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana:手工義大利麵、帕瑪森奶酪、冬季黑松露。Riccardo 用杜蘭粗粒小麥粉(semolina)和蛋黃制成手工義大利麵,放在用花椰菜、榛果等食材炖煮而成的清湯裏煮熟,讓麵條的風味和冬季黑松露的香氣相輔相成。這是近期內吃到最美味的義大利麵了,最後一滴醬汁都不舍得剩下。

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Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire: truffled duck pie, chicory leave with grapefruit, red cabbage marmalade – la pièce de résistance of the evening. This traditional French dish, “pithivier de canard”, is duck meat and innards wrapped with puff pastry, baking this to perfection requires quite some experience and skills.

Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire:法式黑松露鴨肉派、玉蘭菜、西柚、紅卷心菜醬,算是當晚的壓軸菜了。這道法國傳統的 pithivier de canard,做法是將鴨肉、內臟雜碎等以酥餅面皮包裹後烤制,火候要拿捏的准,非常考驗功力和經驗。

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Romain first presented the baked duck pie in its entirety with a glistening puff pastry exterior, before slicing it into parts. What’s inside: duck meat that’s still pink (though I personally would prefer it to be even rarer), unctuous foie gras, and winter black truffle. Even better with duck jus sauce served on the side.

Romain 將烤好的鴨肉派端上桌,外表油亮,看起來十分誘人。切開上盤時方可看見裏面的內容:略帶粉嫩的鴨肉(不過個人偏好再生一點)、入口即化的肥肝、以及這次的主角冬季黑松露。嚐起來外酥內香,加上一點肉醬汁更增風味。

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To go along with the duck pie: tamarillo sorbet, red port and red wine reduction, green mango salt and chili.

搭配鴨肉派的樹番茄冰霜、濃縮紅甜酒、青芒果、辣椒。

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Lastly, the dessert from Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire’s pastry chef Clement Ayache: tarte soufflé with fresh winter black truffle, orange syrup, lamb’s lettuce with icing sugar. It looked substantial in quantity but was light on the stomach as it’s mostly airy soufflé, and yes even the dessert came donned in copious amounts of black truffle…

最後,是來自 Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire 甜點主廚 Clement Ayache 的舒芙蕾塔、橙子醬、野苣、以及冬季黑松露。看起來分量結實,不過主要是輕盈蓬松的舒芙蕾,吃起來負擔不大。是的,連甜點也豪邁地配上了黑松露…

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A truly delicious meal, but this black truffle feast is unfortunately (or fortunately) not a regular menu at either Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire or 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana. The lovely lunch at Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire which I recommended last time, however, is indeed available everyday, do pick a sunny day to give it a try.

極致美味的一餐,不過這樣的冬季黑松露飨宴畢竟不是每天都有,可遇不可求(話說回來也無法天天這樣吃…)。In the mean while,之前推薦過的 Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire 美味午餐天天有,找個明亮的日子,去吃頓好心情吧!

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Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire

地址:上海市建國西路480號
電話:(021)5466 9928
營業時間:7am-10pm
價位:午餐298-358元+10%,晚餐800元+
造訪日期:2019年1月

Written by sugarednspiced

March 4th, 2019 at 1:12 am

[Shanghai 上海] Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire (2)

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Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire

Add: 480 Jian Guo West Road, Shanghai
Tel: (021) 5466 9928
Hours: 7am-10pm
Price: [lunch] 298-358 RMB+10% [dinner] 800RMB+
Visited: Jan 2019

One of my favorite lunch spots in Shanghai in the past few month has been Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire at the Capella Hotel. Even though I thought the restaurant quite delicious as early as it opened back in July 2017, it wasn’t until the latest two visits that I became a genuine fan.

最近幾個月在上海最喜歡的午餐地點之一,是建業里嘉佩樂酒店的 Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire。餐廳在2017年7月開幕不久後我就去嘗鮮了,初訪時雖然也覺得好吃,但真正被 ”打動“ 是最近兩次的事。

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The restaurant is under French master chef Pierre Gagnaire, who has garnered no less than 17 Michelin stars all throughout the world. Though he himself can’t physically be in Shanghai to oversee everything, he has installed his protégés Romain Chapel as the executive chef and Clement Ayache as the pastry chef.

餐廳挂名的是全球擁有17顆米其林星星的法國名廚 Pierre Gagnaire,他老人家雖然平時不在上海,但安排了跟隨自己多年的得意門生 Romain Chapel 來擔任行政總廚以及 Clement Ayache 做甜點主廚。

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Romain Chapel was born into a culinary family. His late father Alain Chapel was one of the most influential French chefs of his time, and even Pierre Gagnaire has passed through his Michelin Three Star establishment in Lyon. Things came a full circle of sorts when Romain started working for Pierre Gagnaire in 2012, and has since then been instrumental in a few of the grand chef’s establishments.

Romain Chapel 出身于烹饪世家,他的先父 Alain Chapel 當年是法國最出名的大廚之一,連 Pierre Gagnaire 也曾在他的三星米其林餐廳裏磨練過。這緣分也很奇妙,Romain 後來又遇上了 Pierre Gagnaire,自2012年開始前後在這位摘星名廚的數個餐廳裏擔當起重要角色。

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Romain came to Shanghai in 2017 to open Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire, cooking “simple, honest, and elegant French cuisine” – classic dishes re-imagined with creativities in both the ingredients and techniques.

Romain 于2017年來到上海,開始在 Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire 做起 “簡單、誠實、優雅的法國料理“。菜色屬經典,但通過食材的巧思以及烹飪手法的創新,給客人們帶來意料之外的驚喜。

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Written by sugarednspiced

March 3rd, 2019 at 12:08 pm

[Shanghai 上海] Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire

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Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire

Add: 2F Capella Hotel, 480 West Jian Guo Road
Tel: 5466 9928
Hours: Weekdays 6-10pm, Weekends 6-10:30pm
Price: dinner 400 RMB+/person
Visited: Jul 2017

Amongst the myriad of new restaurants and hotels popping up in Shanghai lately, the most sought after is most definitely Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire, situated inside the Capella Hotel. The famed French chef has opened over a dozen restaurants around the world, the most iconic being his eponymous three-Michelin-star restaurant in Paris, which has been in operation since 1996. (On a related note, Pierre Gagnaire has garnered 17 stars in total). His 16th restaurant – Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire – just softly opened its door in Shanghai.

最近上海新餐廳和酒店如雨後春筍般不斷冒出,而其中最受人矚目,無疑是法國名廚 Pierre Gagnaire 在 Capella 嘉佩樂酒店開的 Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire。這位大廚的餐廳遍布全球,其中最爲出名的是 1996 年開幕于巴黎的 Pierre Gagnaire 同名餐廳,已多年穩坐米其林三星的地位(順帶一提,大廚所有餐廳加起來有 17 顆星星)。就在這個月,他在上海開了旗下第 16 家餐廳 - Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire。二話不說,吃。

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The location of the restaurant – Capella Hotel, Shanghai – is a luxury hotel renovated from historical Shikumen structures. It hasn’t been completed yet, and we will have to wait till September to see it in its full form, but expectations are already high. When finished, Pierre Gagnaire will have not just the restaurant and bar, but also a boulangerie / patisserie, as well as a space called “The Lab” designated for culinary private events.

餐廳所在地 - 上海建業裏嘉佩樂酒店 - 是由石庫門建築群修複而成的奢華酒店,目前還未完工,正式開業要等到九月(已迫不及待想要去瞧瞧了)。由 Pierre Gagnaire 所經營的除了有餐廳和酒吧,將來還會有街邊的面包甜點房 - La Boulangerie et Patisserie,以及一個提供 “私人預定的美食空間” - The Lab(其實我也沒搞懂這是什麽。)

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Written by sugarednspiced

July 28th, 2017 at 3:09 am