[Shanghai 上海] Tai’an Table 2.0 泰安門 2.0

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Tai’an Table

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Website: www.taian-table.com
Hours: Tue-Sat 6pm-12am
Price: 1088/10 courses, 1388RMB/14 courses
Visited: Feb 2017

Please note that this was an arranged tasting.

I’ve written about Stefan Stiller’s Tai’an Table last April when this hidden restaurant first opened (click here to read), and it wasn’t long before it was awarded a Michelin star. To everyone’s surprise, however, Tai’an Table got shut down the very next day due to license issues, officially making it the shortest-lived Michelin restaurant in history. Talk about being dramatic.

去年四月泰安門剛開時,我曾寫過這家地址和電話都不公開的隱藏餐廳(沒看過這篇的人可以點擊這裏閱讀)。由德國名廚 Stefan Stiller 親自把關的創意料理在開業不久後獲得了米其林一星,整個團隊開心地喝香槟慶祝,卻沒想到得獎第二天就因爲證照不全而被迫停業,成爲史上壽命最短的米其林餐廳。

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But the incident turned out to be positive after all, as Tai’an Table got unprecedented media attention from both in and outside of China, including majors ones like the BBC. They quickly got reorganized and opened Tai’an Table 2.0 last December, at a new location near the intersection of Zhenning Lu and Xinzha Lu. Let’s take a look.

不過塞翁失馬焉知非福,泰安門因此上了不少國內外的大小媒體(包括英國 BBC),反倒打響了餐廳的名氣。去年 12 月他們整裝重啓,將泰安門 2.0 開在了鎮寧路新閘路口附近的巷弄裏。

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Keeping the design from version 1, Tai’an Table 2.0 is an open kitchen surrounded by 22 bar seats, with two tables of four on the side.

沿襲一店的設計,這裏有環繞著開放式廚房的 22 個座位以及兩個 4 人卡座,坐滿也只有30個位子,走的是精致路線。

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On the second floor, there is a bar in collaboration with Leroy Champagne – a nice place to have an aperitif while taking a sneak peek at the kitchen below through the slender windows.

二樓還有個和 Leroy 香槟合作的酒吧,可以餐前來這裏喝一杯,也可以透過窗戶看到樓下廚房的動靜。

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[Shanghai 上海] Tai’an Table 泰安門

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Tai’an Table

Add: N/A
Tel: N/A
Website: www.taian-table.com
Hours: [Tue-Sat] 6pm-12am (closed on Mon & Sun)
Visited on: Apr 2016

Rumor has it that Stefan Stiller’s dream has always been to have a small restaurant with an open kitchen cooking seasonal cuisine, and it seems like the recently-opened Tai’an Table is exactly that – a completely open kitchen, 20 bar seats, and one seasonal menu that changes monthly. No address, no phone number, just a reservation website. You go?

Stefan Stiller在德國曾擁有自己的米其林一星餐廳,也在上海開過精致的 fine dining 和閃亮亮的廚藝教室。不過,聽說大廚一直以來的夢想,其實是經營一家有開放式廚房的季節料理小餐廳。兩周前悄悄開幕的 “泰安門 Tai’an Table” 似乎是這樣的一個地方 - 完全開放式的廚房、20個吧台座位、一個每月更換的套餐;沒有地址,沒有電話,只有一個訂位網站。你,去嗎?

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Stiller is cooking in the kitchen himself, but has also hired Jeno Racz from Hungary to be his chef de cuisine. Racz used to work at Noma in Copenhagen, Robuchon in Singapore, Dinner by Heston Blumenthal in London, and more recently at a molecular gastronomy catering company called Bubble Food.

Stefan Stiller 除了親自掌管廚房之外,也請了來自匈牙利的 Jeno Racz 擔任 chef de cuisine。Racz 曾任職于哥本哈根Noma、新加坡 Robuchon、倫敦 Dinner by Heston Blumenthal、以及分子料理外燴公司 Bubble Food,履曆相當漂亮的他,一個多月前來到了上海。

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[Shanghai] Stiller’s Cooking School – Dark Chocolate Cake

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Here’s the recipe for Dark Chocolate Cake with Walnut-Krokant-Parfait, the dessert and final dish we made at Stiller’s “Autumn Set Menu” cooking class. This delicious recipe is simple enough to be replicated at home – perfect for your next dinner party. For details on the cooking class itself, click here.

Dark Chocolate Cake with Walnut-Krokant-Parfait

Walnut-Krokant-Parfait

  • 250g walnuts
  • 300g sugar
  • 4 eggs
  • 4 egg yolks
  • 150g dark chocolate
  • 1l cream, strongly whipped

Let 150g sugar caramelize until golden brown and crystal clear. Add walnuts and mix with caramel. Pour on a tray with baking paper and chill. When caramelized walnuts are cold, put them into a plastic bag and crush them to small dice.

Melt the chocolate in a warm water bath. Mix in a bowl the egg yolk, egg, and sugar and whip with a whisk on a hot water bath until mixture is very creamy, bright in color and has about 60 degrees.

Add melted chocolate and walnuts to egg mix. Fold carefully whipped cream under the mix and fill into a terrine mold and freeze for at least 3 hours or overnight.

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[Shanghai] Stiller’s Cooking School – Venison

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Here’s the recipe for Venison Fillet with Juniper-Berry Sauce, Fig-Red Cabbage, and Brioche & Apple Souffle, the third dish we made at Stiller’s “Autumn Set Menu” cooking class. Juicy! Lovely with the accompanying fig-red cabbage. For details on the cooking class itself, click here.

Venison Fillet with Juniper-Berry Sauce, Fig-Red Cabbage, and Brioche & Apple Souffle

For the fig-red cabbage

  • 1kg red cabbage, finely sliced
  • 500ml red wine
  • 50ml red wine vinegar
  • 200g onions, finely sliced
  • 50g butter
  • 0.5l chicken stock
  • juniper berries, cloves, bay leaves, black pepper
  • 100g dry figs
  • 200ml port wine

Soften sliced onions in butter. Add red cabbage with wine and fill up with chicken stock until almost covered.

Put spices in a “tea egg” and add to the cabbage. Cook for about one hour until the cabbage softens and liquid reduces. Season with salt and pepper.

Bring port wine to a boil and add dry figs. Let figs soak up the liquid and soften. When fits are soft, add to a blender and mix for a smooth puree. Add figs puree to red cabbage for seasoning.

For brioche & apple souffle:

  • 300g brioche, diced
  • 100g apple, peeled and finely diced
  • 40g shallots, finely diced
  • 80g bacon, finely diced
  • 40g butter
  • 150ml milk
  • 3 eggs
  • 4 egg whites, very stiff whipped
  • parsley, salt, pepper

Sweat the bacon in a pan until crispy. Add butter and shallots and sweat until soft. Add to brioche and apple dice in a large bowl. Boil the milk and pour over bread. Add eggs and mix everything well. Cover with cling film and let rest for about 15~20 minutes.

Chop the parsley and add to the mix. Season with salt and pepper. Fold in stiff whipped egg white.

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[Shanghai] Stiller’s Cooking School – Salmon Turbot Roulade

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Here’s the recipe for Salmon Turbot Roulade with Beet Root and Horseradish Sauce, the second dish we made at Stiller’s “Autumn Set Menu” cooking class. Beautiful in presentation and in flavor, this was my favorite dish for the day. For details on the cooking class itself, click here.

Salmon Turbot Roulade with Beet Root and Horseradish Sauce

  • 200g fresh salmon fillet
  • 400g turbot fillet, cut in 50g pieces
  • 150ml cream
  • 1 egg
  • 200g spinach
  • 300g beet root, cooked soft with skin
  • 4cl sherry
  • 1pc lime
  • salt and pepper

Turbot

Chef Stiller filleting the turbot

Nice, clean fillets

Blanch spinach and layer on a sheet of cling film. Dry spinach leaves and press with a cloth.

Cut salmon in small dice; add egg and season with salt and pepper. Keep in the freezer for at least 20 minutes together with the cream in order to chill it down to almost zero degrees.

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[Shanghai] Stiller’s Cooking School – Foie Gras

Here’s the recipe for Foie Gras Mousse & Seared Foie Gras with Apple Chutney, the first dish we made at Stiller’s “Autumn Set Menu” cooking class. For details on the cooking class itself, click here.

Foie Gras Mousse & Seared Foie Gras with Apple Chutney

For the mousse:

  • 150g foie gras
  • 0.2l cream
  • 4cl Cognac
  • 4cl Port wine
  • 2 pc gelatin
  • 100g whipped cream
  • salt, pepper

Take the slices of foie gras and pan sear in a dry non-stick pan until golden brown from both sides.

Boil the cream. Add the liver with the excess fat to the cream and keep in the cream for about 5 to 10 minutes. Keep the temperature of the cream just below the boiling point but don’t let it cook.

Put the liver cream mix in a kitchen blender and mix until you have a smooth texture. Strain through a fine sieve. Season with alcohol, salt, and pepper.

Soak the gelatin in cold water and after the leaves are soft, press out the excess water.

Add the gelatin to the still hot liquid and stir well until it’s fully melted. Chill down and once it starts to set, add carefully the whipped cream.

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[Shanghai] Stiller’s Cooking School

Stiller’s Restaurant & Cooking School

Add: Bldg 13, 6-7/F, The Cool Docks, 505 Zhongshan Nan Lu 老码头, 中山南路505号6-7楼
Tel: 6152 6501
Hours: email cookingschool@stillers-restaurant.cn for course schedule and time
Price: 420~650 RMB/class
Website: www.stillers-restaurant.cn
Visited: Nov 2011

I have known about Stiller’s Cooking School since the first time I dined at his restaurant, but it wasn’t until two weeks ago that I eventually signed up for a class. So how does haute cuisine actually work? Let’s find out.

Stiller’s cooking class is held on the 6th floor in an open kitchen gorgeous enough to make any housewife jealous. I arrived at 10:50am, greeted the chef, put on my apron (ours to keep), and carefully perused the recipes while waiting for my fellow classmates to trickle in. What’s on the menu? The theme of the class was “Stiller’s Autumn Set Menu” (650 RMB), and the recipes read foie gras, turbot, venison, and chocolate cake…looking good, looking very good.


The cookware and utensils, all glistening.

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[Shanghai] Stiller’s

Stiller’s Restaurant & Cooking School

Add: Bldg 13, 6-7/F, The Cool Docks, 505 Zhongshan Nan Lu / 老碼頭, 中山南路505號13號樓6-7樓
Tel: 6152 6501
Hours: [dinner] 6:00~10:30pm [Sunday brunch] 12:00~2:30pm
Price: Brunch 348 RMB/person, Dinner 500+ RMB/person
Website: www.stillers-restaurant.cn
Visited: Oct 2010

Stiller’s at The Cool Docks is modern European fine-dining. The sleek dining room, spacious and elegantly decorated with white tablecloths and roses, matches perfectly with the beautiful dishes conjured up by Stefan Stiller.

Here’s the Lazy Sunday Lunch Menu (348 RMB/person), which changes regularly with the season, starting with bread basket and a trio of whipped butter: curry, sesame, and cilantro

Starter Variation: cilantro mousse, tuna steak, deviled egg, foie gras terrine, mozzarella and tomato. An attractive plate of dainty bites, though nothing left a memorable mark.

Beef Carpaccio with Parmesan Mousse, “Gazpacho Soup”, Olive Tapenade, Pine Nuts and Basil. The gazpacho was enveloped in a bulb, and the parmesan mousse was wrapped in a thin, crunchy pastry. Definitely very complicated and unusual in terms of architecture.

Turbot Herbs Mousse with Sweet Wine Jelly, Fennel and Shallot-Saffron Vinaigrette. A pretty dish.

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