[Paris] The prettiest Bûche de Noël of 2015

Christmas is no doubt the busiest season for pastry chefs. I spent my past three Christmas in different pastry kitchens in Paris, and the most memorable was definitely at Fauchon where we made over 6000 cakes for the season. Imagine: a kitchen filled with pastry chefs in Santa hats working on Christmas cakes until late nights…yup, that was us. “Bûche de Noël” is literally a “Christmas log”, but of course nowadays pastry chefs are going above and beyond the log shape, using Christmas as the opportunity to showcase their creativity. Here are a few of my favorites from the 2015 Christmas cake collection, sharing them with you so we can drool together.

Lenôtre

Name: La bûche à trésors
Flavors: chocolate, yuzu, almond, citrus
Price: 130 €

Lenôtre works with a different brand every year to create their Christmas cake, and this year, it’s Hermes’ petit h. All these little items on the cake are sculpted from chocolate and almond paste, very pretty…too pretty, in fact, that I wouldn’t know where to cut!

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Jean-Paul Hévin

Name: Bûche d’Enfer
Flavors: dark chocolate, nougat, buckwheat honey
Price: 36-77 €

A contrast of red and black, with flames and little demons…this is not your warm and fuzzy Christmas cake. The demons chocolate stand is optional for purchase, but I guess the cake wouldn’t be as interesting with only the red flames. In terms of flavor, it’s JPH’s specialty – chocolate.

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Fauchon

Name: Houx Là Là
Flavors: Bergamot, lemon, milk chocolate, vanilla, raspberry
Price: 100 €

All I want to say is that this cake looks very complicated to assemble…to my colleagues who are still there, good luck. I wonder if this year they are also going to churn out 6000 Christmas cakes?

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[Paris] Sébastien Dégardin

Sébastien Dégardin

Add: 200, rue Saint-Jacques – 75005 Paris
Tel: 01 43 07 77 59
Hours: [Tue-Sun] 9am-8pm (closed on Mon & Tue)
Website: www.sebastien-degardin.com
Price: €4-5/patisserie
Visited: Sep 2015

I didn’t know about Sébastien Dégardin until I read the latest Fou de Patisserie magazine, where I found out that this ex-pastry chef from the legendary Troisgros now runs his own pastry boutique in Paris 5eme near the Pantheon. Where have I been?!

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So I went straight away to sample a few pastry creations from the chef, starting with Mara (€5.50), composed of a dacquoise with almonds, light vanilla cream, and red fruit compote, all wrapped around by a soft biscuit, then topped with hazelnut streusel and fresh fig.

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[Paris] La Pâtisserie Cyril Lignac

La Pâtisserie Cyril Lignac

Add: 2 rue de Chaillot, 75016 Paris
Tel: 01 47 20 64 51
Hours: 7am-8pm (open daily)
Website: www.lapatisseriecyrillignac.com
Price: [pastries] €3.50-6
Visited: Sep 2015

As I’m leaving Paris the pastry wonderland soon (direction Shanghai), I’ve been hopping around eating even more pastries than I already do…and for the first time during my three years in Paris, I tried pâtisseries from Cyril Lignac. The celebrity chef has two pastry boutiques in Paris, with production headed by chef Benoit Couvrand. Let’s see what they’ve got for us.

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[Paris] Broken Biscuits

Broken Biscuits

Add: 10 Passage Rochebrune, 75011 Paris
Tel: N/A
Hours: [Wed-Fri] 8:30am-7pm [Sat-Sun] 11-7pm (closed Mon & Tue)
Price: [tea/coffee]  €3-5 [pastries] €2.5-5
Visited: Sep 2015

For a year or so, Chris and Christina of the Broken Biscuits have been supplying pastries to a few of Paris’ favorite cafes – Fondation, Honor, Steel, Loustic  – while baking everything up in their home kitchen. This summer, they finally opened a cozy little shop of their own on a quiet lane in the 11th arrondissement. It’s a small but well-designed space, with an open kitchen, a pastry display, and a corner bar that seats 5 people. Very charming.

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I came here on a quiet weekday morning for breakfast, which ended up being black coffee (€3), muffin (€2.5) and a few bites of my friend’s cheesecake (€5). There were a few times when I’ve been disappointed by Broken Biscuit pastries from the above mentioned cafes, but to my pleasant surprise, I was happy with everything I tasted in their shop. Apparently they also do an excellent peanut butter brownie which I will surely have to try on my next visit.

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[Paris] Sadaharu Aoki (3)

Sadaharu Aoki

Add:  35 Rue de Vaugirard, 75006 Paris*
Tel: +33 1 45 44 48 90
Hours: [Tue-Sat] 11am~7pm [Sun] 10am~6pm (closed on Mon)
Website: www.sadaharuaoki.com
Price: €5~6/patisserie
Tasted on: Dec 2014

Sadaharu Aoki, famed for combining Japanese ingredients in French pastries, now has three shops in Paris – the newest one being in the recently renovated Lafayette Gourmet. It was a year and a half ago when I last had an Aoki pastry (see here and here), and I haven’t gone back in so long because I wasn’t too convinced by what I tasted last time. This Saturday morning, however, I was in a green tea state of mind, and decided to pay the shop a visit. Get ready for lots of green.

*Additional locations available, check website for detail.

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Tarte Caramel Matcha (€5.30), a recently launched variation on Aoki’s Tarte Caramel Salé, is an eye-catcher and no less intense in taste. The perfectly piped green spiral of matcha mousse has a strong taste (in comparison to the more subtle flavors in Aoki’s other matcha pastries), and underneath it is a salted caramel that’s both very sweet and salty. I quite liked it, but only in small doses – 1/4 of the tart at a time is perfect.

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[Paris] Des Gâteaux et Du Pain (3)

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Des Gâteaux et Du Pain

Add: 63 boulevard Pasteur, 75015 Paris
Tel: 01 45 38 94 16
Hours: [Wed-Mon] 8am-8pm (closed Tue)
Website: www.desgateauxetdupain.com
Price: €5~7/pastry
Visited on: Sep 2013

Some recent tastings at Des Gâteaux et Du Pain (click here and here for previous posts).

Lipstick Cerise (€5.80) attracts the eyes immediately with its intense red and brilliant shine. The bottom, a “croustillant à la cassonade”, is a crunchy mix of crushed almonds and sweet almond paste. On top, layers of light whipped cream with kirsch, stewed cherries and half-cooked Morello cherries, and vanilla cream.

Le Chou à la Rhubarbe (€4.80), a crusted choux garnished with cream and stewed rhubarbe.

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[Paris] Sebastien Gaudard (2)

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Sebastien Gaudard

Add: 22 rue des Martyrs, 75009 Paris
Tel: 01 71 18 24 70
Hours: [Tue-Fri] 10am~8pm [Sat] 9am~8pm [Sun] 9am~7pm
Website: www.sebastiengaudard.fr
Price: €4~5/pastry
Tasted on: Aug 2013

Back at Sebastien Gaudard‘s chic boutique on rue des Martyrs for his tarte au citron, but of course left with a bit more than just that.

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[Paris] Mori Yoshida (2)

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Mori Yoshida

Add: 65 avenue de Breteuil 75007 Paris
Tel: +33 (0)1 47 34 29 74
Hours: [Tue-Sat] 9:30am~6:30pm [Sun] 9:30am~1:30pm
Website: moriyoshida.fr
Price: €3.40~5.80/patisserie
Tasted on: Aug 2013

A friend of mine has once referred to a particular pastry as her “soulmate”. Well, I’ve never thought of any pastry as my soulmate, but if I do, Beige from Mori Yoshida is probably it.

Beige (€5.30): chocolate shortcrust pastry filled praliné feuilleté, orange ganache, topped with Darjeeling tea and lime-flavored cream, and lastly finished with white chocolate shavings. Delicate, elegant, and soothing, like a cup of perfectly brewed milk tea. I’m absolutely in love with it.

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[Paris] Sebastien Gaudard

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Sebastien Gaudard

Add: 22 rue des Martyrs, 75009 Paris
Tel: 01 71 18 24 70
Hours: [Tue-Fri] 10am~8pm [Sat] 9am~8pm [Sun] 9am~7pm
Website: www.sebastiengaudard.fr
Price: €4~5/pastry
Tasted on: Apr 2013

Sebastien Gaudard revisits the classics and keeps them classy. The second-generation pâtissier previously worked under (and subsequently succeeded) Pierre Hermé at Fauchon before launching Délicabar at Le Bon Marché and eventually his own boutique on Rue des Martyrs. The shop is super cute, but unfortunately photos are not allowed inside…you will have to go see it for yourself.

And here’s what I went home with.

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[Paris] Mori Yoshida

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Mori Yoshida

Add: 65 avenue de Breteuil 75007 Paris
Tel: +33 (0)1 47 34 29 74
Hours: [Tue-Sun] 10am~7:15pm
Website: moriyoshida.fr
Price: €3.40~5.80/patisserie
Tasted on: May 2013

I’ve always loved clean, minimalistic shop designs, and Mori Yoshida was exactly that. Opened just one week ago by Japanese pastry chef Morihide Yoshida, who has honed his skills in both Japan (Park Hyatt Tokyo and his own patisserie) and France (La Pâtisserie des Rêves and Jacques Genin), the shop has an exceedingly purest design. The attention, naturally, is drawn to the beautiful pastries on display.

Through the floor-to-ceiling window…

Bare walls, plain wood, light grey floor.

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