Malcom Lee preserves the essence and complexities of traditional Peranakan cuisine while adding modern twists, striking a fine balance between authenticity and creativity.
![[Kyoto 京都] かね井 Kanei](https://www.sugarednspiced.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/L1158953.jpg)
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かね井蕎麦 Kanei
Add: 11-1 Murasakino Higashifujinomoricho, Kita Ward, Kyoto
Tel: 075-441-8283
Hours: 11:30am-2:30pm, 5-7pm (closed on Mon)
Price: 1,500-2,000 yen
Visited: Aug 2016
I didn’t plan to go to any Michelin restaurants this time in Kyoto, but as I was sorting out the itinerary, I noticed that there’s a one Michelin star soba restaurant near Daitokuji Temple which we planned to visit, so I decided to drop by for a taste. After getting off the bus in the nearest station, we walked for another 7-10 minutes in the scorching sun, eventually arriving at this humble-looking restaurant with a tiny sign that says “かね井” (Kanei), so small that it’s definitely missed unless by those specifically looking for it.
這次京都之行沒有特別安排豪華的米其林餐廳，不過在規劃行程時發現想要造訪的大德寺旁有一家米其林一星的蕎麥麵，決定順道去嚐一嚐。從公車站下來後冒著大太陽走了10分鍾左右，來到這間樸素的餐廳，外面挂著一塊不特別留意的話絕對看不到的小小招牌，上面寫著かね井（發音：kanei）。
Upon entering the shop, I noticed that there are only about 16 seats inside, and even though it wasn’t even noon time yet, every seat has been taken. The owner lady quietly came over and said rather apologetically – I’m afraid you will have to wait for about 1 hour or so for a table. Well then, we shall wait.
推門入內，發現店裏只有16個左右的位子，所有人盤腿而坐在榻榻米上安靜地吃著麵。我抵達時才12點不到一些，不過店裏已經完全客滿了，前面還有兩位客人在等位。老板娘略帶歉意的說，可能要等一個小時哦。哎呀，那就等吧。
In this small Japanese building of over 80 years old, the husband Toshio Kanei is busy manning the kitchen, while the wife takes care of the customers out in the front. There’s no air-conditioning even in the summer heat, only a small fan quietly doing its job; There is a small backyard garden, simply and elegantly decorated with a goldfish bowl, and a traditional Japanese wind bell making beautiful sounds with each breeze. The air is quiet, so quiet that everyone automatically lowers their voice as they enter the space.
80多年的日式建築裡，老板在廚房裏忙碌著，老板娘內外走動招呼客人。沒有空調，只有電風扇輕輕轉動著，小小的後院簡單精致，擺了一個很有禅意的金魚缸，挂了一串聲音清脆的風鈴。靜谧的氣氛讓所有人都也不自覺的輕聲細語。
We didn’t actually wait for one hour, though it was pretty close to it. Upon being seated, we were served some cold brew tea, and started browsing though the hand-written menu. Though the restaurant is one Michelin star, it is not significantly more expensive than a regular soba joint, with the price for each a la carte item to be around 950-1,700 yen.
其實並沒有等到一個小時（不過大概也45分鍾了）。老板娘爲我們倒上了冷泡茶、遞上一份手寫的菜單。雖然說是米其林一星餐廳，不過かね井的價格跟其他蕎麥麵屋的價格似乎差不多，單點的價格950－1700日幣不等。
![[Shanghai 上海] Tai’an Table 泰安門](https://www.sugarednspiced.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/L1153354.jpg)
Tai’an Table
Add: N/A
Tel: N/A
Website: www.taian-table.com
Hours: [Tue-Sat] 6pm-12am (closed on Mon & Sun)
Visited on: Apr 2016
Rumor has it that Stefan Stiller’s dream has always been to have a small restaurant with an open kitchen cooking seasonal cuisine, and it seems like the recently-opened Tai’an Table is exactly that – a completely open kitchen, 20 bar seats, and one seasonal menu that changes monthly. No address, no phone number, just a reservation website. You go?
Stefan Stiller在德國曾擁有自己的米其林一星餐廳，也在上海開過精致的 fine dining 和閃亮亮的廚藝教室。不過，聽說大廚一直以來的夢想，其實是經營一家有開放式廚房的季節料理小餐廳。兩周前悄悄開幕的 “泰安門 Tai’an Table” 似乎是這樣的一個地方 － 完全開放式的廚房、20個吧台座位、一個每月更換的套餐；沒有地址，沒有電話，只有一個訂位網站。你，去嗎？
Stiller is cooking in the kitchen himself, but has also hired Jeno Racz from Hungary to be his chef de cuisine. Racz used to work at Noma in Copenhagen, Robuchon in Singapore, Dinner by Heston Blumenthal in London, and more recently at a molecular gastronomy catering company called Bubble Food.
Stefan Stiller 除了親自掌管廚房之外，也請了來自匈牙利的 Jeno Racz 擔任 chef de cuisine。Racz 曾任職于哥本哈根Noma、新加坡 Robuchon、倫敦 Dinner by Heston Blumenthal、以及分子料理外燴公司 Bubble Food，履曆相當漂亮的他，一個多月前來到了上海。
