Sugared & Spiced

pâtissière in paris, now shanghai

[Shanghai 上海] Salon de Thé de Joël Robuchon

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Salon de Thé de Joël Robuchon

Add: 1F No. 18 Zhong Shan Dong Yi Road
Tel: 6070 8888
Hours: 10am-10pm
Price: [Afternoon Tea] 328 RMB/person, 588 RMB/2 persons [a la carte] 65-88 RMB
Visited: Apr 2016

Please note that this was an invited tasting.

So, Robuchon is finally in Shanghai. He who owns the most number of Michelin stars in the world recently opened his first L’Atelier and Salon de Thé ever on mainland China, both located in Bund 18. Let’s go take a look.

請注意本次為餐廳安排試吃。

終于,Robuchon來了。這位在全世界擁有最多顆米其林星星的 “世紀名廚”,這兩周先後在上海外灘 18 號開了他在中國內地的第一家餐廳 L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon 以及茶室 Salon de Thé。不囉唆,去瞧瞧。

 

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On the first floor is Robuchon’s pastry boutique, displaying rows of alluring cakes, macarons, chocolates, and breads. The design is his signature red and black, the stark contrast is sleek and eye-catching.

一樓進去首先是 Robuchon 的面包甜點店,陳列著各式令人垂涎欲滴的蛋糕、馬卡龍、巧克力、和面包。裝潢風格是 Robuchon 一貫的紅黑色強烈對比。

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Weekie the pastry chef here has worked for 7 years at Robuchon’s Hong Kong location before moving to Shanghai to head up the pastry department here. Takuya the bakery chef is Japanese, who had worked in Tokyo’s Grand Hyatt, Sentai’s Westin, and Beijing’s Pangu Hotel before joining Robuchon’s team in Shanghai.

這裏的甜點主廚 Weekie 來自香港,在日本完成甜點學業並在香港的 Robuchon 工作 7 年後被指派來到了上海。麵包師 Takuya 則是日本人,在日本和法國學習烘培專業,先後在東京的君悅酒店、仙台的威斯丁酒店、以及北京盤古七星酒店工作後來到上海的 Robuchon。兩人的合作,非常令人期待。

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The tea salon is located at the atrium of Bund 18. The location isn’t the most private as there are shops all around, but the high ceiling and comfortable distance between tables make this quite a pleasant space. Would be even nicer with natural light though.

下午茶的位置在外灘 18 號的中庭,挑高的空間很舒服,而且桌子之間的距離寬敞,不會有互相打擾的問題。中庭的位置不算特別私密,不過挺安靜的, 唯一我個人比較在意的一點就是沒有自然光。

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Plates and cups are from Procelaine Legle, and silverware from Christofle.

茶杯盤子選用的是來自法國 Limoges 的 Porcelaine Legle,刀叉則是 Christofle。

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My friend and I first started with an afternoon tea set for two (588 RMB + 10%), which includes a selection of savories, sweets, and scones. Only after we finished did we notice on the menu photo that we were supposed to get four scones for our set – did they misplace them? Anyway, there was a plain and a raisin scone, served with fresh cream (though the texture and flavor is more like mascarpone) and house-made raspberry jam – very delicious.

我和朋友先點了雙人份下午茶(588元+10%),紅黑色系的三層點心架上整齊的擺著鹹點、甜點、以及 scones。其實我們離開後才發現菜單照片上的雙人份下午茶應該有四個 scones,不知道是不是擺少了?總之有原味和葡萄乾兩種scone,搭配新奶油(感覺好像加了 mascarpone 芝士)和手工覆盆子果醬,非常好吃。

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Afternoon tea set includes tea, coffee, or hot chocolate, and you can also tag on a glass of Veuve Clicquot (+160 RMB).

下午茶包括茶、咖啡、熱巧克力等飲料,也可以另加一杯 Veuve Clicquot 香槟(+160 元)。

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Starting with the savories, there were French club burger with mustard and ginger, curry turkey roll with Corinth grapes and green apple, foie gras terrine, confit cherries and pistachio bread, Scottish salmon gravlax roll with ricotta cheese, and yellow-fin tuna mousse with French beans. Each a tiny, delicate few bites, meticulously done.

先從鹹點開始。當天我們嚐到的有(上圖第二層從左至右):總會漢堡配薑汁芥末、咖喱火雞卷伴科林葡萄(Corinth grapes)和青蘋果、鵝肝醬配櫻桃蜜餞和開心果面包、腌漬蘇格蘭三文魚卷伴日科塔(ricotta)芝士、和黃鳍吞那魚慕斯伴法國四季豆。雖然都是小小一口,但真的每一個都做得相當精致,味道也令人滿意。

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On the sweet side, there were mango panna cotta, coffee religieuse, strawberry tart, cherry mousse, and apple tart tatin. Other than the coffee religieuse which was quite sweet, everything else was light and just right for my palate. The Apple tart tatin was especially impressive, made with the same technique as what I had tasted at La Patisserie des Reves in Paris: paper-thin apple slices layered piece by piece, then baked in the oven until they are almost melted.

甜點的部份有芒果奶酪、咖啡修女泡芙、草莓塔、櫻桃慕斯、和法式焦糖蘋果塔。其中焦糖蘋果塔的做工特別精細,和之前在巴黎 La Patisserie des Reves 嚐到的蘋果塔一樣,是將蘋果削成薄片後層層堆疊、和焦糖一起烘烤至幾乎入口即化的口感。除了咖啡泡芙略甜之外,其他的甜點都是我很喜歡的清爽風格,完全不膩。

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After the tea set for two, we ordered a few more a la carte cakes and breads out of the curiosity. Anyone else get a sugar high just from looking at a table full of pastries?

雙人份下午茶結束之後,我們又好奇的點了幾份單點甜點和面包。(還有人和我一樣看到滿桌的甜點和面包會超級開心的嗎?哎。)

 

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The cake the attracted me the most was this L’Entremet au Thé Earl Grey (65 RMB) as I’m a huge fan of Earl Grey, and that tiny macaron on top is just too cute. After a bite, however, I realized that the milk chocolate in this was too sweet for me, and the Earl Grey flavor wasn’t as pronounced as I’d hoped…but I did like the crunchy chocolate beads at the bottom which added extra texture.

蛋糕櫃看了一圈下來,最吸引我的是這個 L’Entremet au Thé Earl Grey 伯爵茶蛋糕(65元),不止因爲我很喜歡伯爵茶的口味,也因爲上面這顆迷你馬卡龍實在很可愛。試了之後覺得它可能因爲牛奶巧克力的關系稍甜了一些,而且伯爵茶的味道如果能再濃郁一些就好了。當然,還是好吃的,特別喜歡底部的香脆巧克力球,讓這款蛋糕口感更豐富。

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L’Entremet a la Rose (65 RMB) is rose + raspberry + lychee, a now classic combination made famous by Pierre Hermé Ispahan. A nice balance of sweet and acidic, quite refreshing.

下一款 L’Entremet a la Rose 覆盆子荔枝草莓蛋糕(65元),是 Pierre Hermé Ispahan 的經典口味組合。酸甜而不失清爽的一款甜點,喜歡。

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Then there was the Mont Blanc (65 RMB), composed of candied chestnut bits, chestnut cream, whipped cream, meringue, and a layer of black currant jam to balance out the sweetness. I was quite impressed by the ultra-thin tart shell and how it remained crispy despite having been in the fridge for quite some time.

也試了 Mont Blanc 栗子塔(65元),除了傳統的糖漬栗子+栗子泥+鮮奶油+蛋白霜組合之外還加了酸度頗高的果醬來平衡這個塔的甜度。另我印象比較深刻的是這個塔皮做的非常的薄,而且在冰櫃裏放一陣子之後居然還非常酥脆。

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Lastly, the breads. The curry bun on the left looks like it’s been fried, but it’s actually sprinkled with baked baguette bits for that crunchy texture. On the right is raspberry chocolate croissant (26 RMB), generously enveloping chocolate and raspberry jam, definitely a dessert in itself. My favorite, however, was the square danish with cheese and honey (22 RMB), the combination of blue cheese with honey was just amazing (and the look is super cute too.)

最後是面包君們。左邊的咖喱面包看起來好像是炸過的,其實外面撒的是烤脆的發棍碎片,吃起來還真的有炸過的口感。右邊是覆盆子巧克力牛角包(26元),裏面豪邁的包著巧克力和覆盆子果醬,完全就是一款甜點。不過最令我驚豔的是後面那個芝士蜂蜜方形丹麥酥(22元),藍紋芝士加上蜂蜜真是太美好了(而且造型好可愛呀)。

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Happy with this first visit, and can’t wait to come back to try the restaurant upstairs. Welcome to Shanghai, Mr. Robuchon.

這次初訪嚐到的甜點喝面包們讓我非常開心,雖然只來過一次很難說到底有多喜歡這個地方,但總之非常期待 Robuchon 的餐廳和茶室之後在上海的發展。這個周末的下午茶,就來這裏喝吧?

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Salon de Thé de Joël Robuchon

地址:中山東一路18號1樓
電話:6070 8888
營業時間:10am-10pm
價位:[下午茶]328元/單人份 588元/雙人份[單點甜點]65-88元
造訪:2016年4月

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Written by sugarednspiced

April 12th, 2016 at 9:59 am