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[Shanghai 上海] Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire

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Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire

Add: 2F Capella Hotel, 480 West Jian Guo Road
Tel: 5466 9928
Hours: Weekdays 6-10pm, Weekends 6-10:30pm
Price: dinner 400 RMB+/person
Visited: Jul 2017

Amongst the myriad of new restaurants and hotels popping up in Shanghai lately, the most sought after is most definitely Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire, situated inside the Capella Hotel. The famed French chef has opened over a dozen restaurants around the world, the most iconic being his eponymous three-Michelin-star restaurant in Paris, which has been in operation since 1996. (On a related note, Pierre Gagnaire has garnered 17 stars in total). His 16th restaurant – Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire – just softly opened its door in Shanghai.

最近上海新餐廳和酒店如雨後春筍般不斷冒出,而其中最受人矚目,無疑是法國名廚 Pierre Gagnaire 在 Capella 嘉佩樂酒店開的 Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire。這位大廚的餐廳遍布全球,其中最爲出名的是 1996 年開幕于巴黎的 Pierre Gagnaire 同名餐廳,已多年穩坐米其林三星的地位(順帶一提,大廚所有餐廳加起來有 17 顆星星)。就在這個月,他在上海開了旗下第 16 家餐廳 - Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire。二話不說,吃。

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The location of the restaurant – Capella Hotel, Shanghai – is a luxury hotel renovated from historical Shikumen structures. It hasn’t been completed yet, and we will have to wait till September to see it in its full form, but expectations are already high. When finished, Pierre Gagnaire will have not just the restaurant and bar, but also a boulangerie / patisserie, as well as a space called “The Lab” designated for culinary private events.

餐廳所在地 - 上海建業裏嘉佩樂酒店 - 是由石庫門建築群修複而成的奢華酒店,目前還未完工,正式開業要等到九月(已迫不及待想要去瞧瞧了)。由 Pierre Gagnaire 所經營的除了有餐廳和酒吧,將來還會有街邊的面包甜點房 - La Boulangerie et Patisserie,以及一個提供 “私人預定的美食空間” - The Lab(其實我也沒搞懂這是什麽。)

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The restaurant and bar just opened this month, and is only available for dinner at the moment. When in full operation, it will offer breakfast, lunch, dinner, as well as afternoon tea (and I’m guessing brunch on the weekends as well).

餐廳這個月中才剛開業,目前只提供晚餐,不過之後會有早、午、晚餐以及下午茶(想必周末也會有特別的 brunch 菜單吧)。

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Pierre Gagnaire himself will not be in Shanghai much except when new menus are being developed – after all he does have to travel all over the world – but he has installed his protege Romain Chapel to be the executive chef here. On another note, Chef Chapel’s late father Alain Chapel was also a well-known name in the French culinary world.

Pierre Gagnaire 本人不會常駐上海 - 畢竟他老人得全世界跑 - 不過他安排了跟隨自己多年的得意門生 Romain Chapel 來擔任行政總廚。話說 Chef Chapel 出身于烹饪世家,他的先父 Alain Chapel 當年也是法國非常出名的廚師喲。

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One thing to note – Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire is not a fine dining restaurant, as the name “Le Comptoir” clearly suggests. But of course with the Pierre Gagnaire name and the location inside Capella Hotel, you can expect something more refined than your average French bistro. Take the Tartare “Terre & Mer” (228 RMB) for example, instead of a typical beef tartar,is a combination of  beef/foie gras/Beaufort cheese/smoked herring, complimented with cucumber jelly, sour cream, salmon roe, and toasted bread.

Pierre Gagnaire 巴黎的三星餐廳以天馬行空的極致料理出名,不過 Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire 走的並不是米其林路線。光聽名字 “Le Comptoir” 感覺會是一家輕松的 bistro,不過畢竟是大廚出品,又位于奢華酒店 Capella 裏,可想而知這也不會是一般的法國小館子。比如這一道 “Tartare Terre & Mer”(228元),將一般法式小館子常見的生牛肉鞜撻做成了 “海陸鞜撻“, 結合了牛肉、鵝肝、Beaufort 芝士、煙熏鲱魚,再搭配黃瓜凍、酸奶油、三文魚籽,以及烤面包。

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I was also a fan of the foie gras terrine (178 RMB), served with brioche, Sauternes cube, and burned onion jus. The soft creamy texture and perfect seasoning were equally memorable, each small bite a long lasting sensation.

另外一道我非常喜歡的是 “Foie Gras Terrine”(178 元): 鴨肝、無花果、brioche 黃油面包、洋蔥汁、搭配一小片甜蜜的 Sauternes 酒凍。柔滑厚實的口感和完美的調味都令人印象深刻,一小口都能回味無窮。

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Rilette from the sea (78 RMB).

“Rilette from the sea”(78元)海鮮罐頭。

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Pressed crab (138 RMB), dill flavored pineapple carpaccio, carrot foam.

“Pressed Crab”(138 元):蟹肉色拉、莳蘿、菠蘿薄片、胡蘿蔔泡沫。

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Snails “a la Bordelaise”(128 RMB), eggplant caviar, tuile of spelt.

Snails “a la Bordelaise”(128 元):蝸牛、波爾多雷斯紅酒醬、茄子魚子醬(eggplant caviar,不是真的魚子醬哦)、spelt 小麥脆片。

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Lilysing salad (80 RMB), Thai pink grapefruit, orange, avocado, celeriac, yellow mango, rocket salad, fermented tofu paste.

“Lilysing Salad”(80 元):泰國粉紅西柚、橙、牛油果、芹菜根、芒果、芝麻菜、腐乳。

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If you are currently in Shanghai, you know we’ve been experiencing 40C days for a few weeks now…this naturally calls for a glass of nicely chilled Sancerre. Otherwise, I also heard pretty good things about the cocktails here, if that’s your thing.

話說,最近上海天氣真的太熱太熱太熱了,必須要來一杯冰涼的 Sancerre 解解暑。聽說這裏的調酒也不錯,留到下次吧。

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My favorite main course from the evening was ginger-flavored lobster fricassee (408 RMB), complimented with cinnamon and curry-spiced wheat semolina, punctuated with diced apples that provided just the right amount of sweetness.

當晚嚐的幾道主菜裏面,我最喜歡 “Lobster Fricassee”(408 元):薑味龍蝦搭配 cous cous 中東小米。龍蝦烹調的恰到好處,口感Q彈完美。中東小米用了肉桂和咖喱調味,再拌了一些畫龍點睛的蘋果丁。

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I was also a fan of the heady, alluring aroma from fresh herbs lamb crepinette (268 RMB), served with grilled cabbage and Manchego tchatchouka.

另外也喜歡 “Lamb Crepinette”(268 元)濃郁的醬汁和肉香:香草羊肉卷、扒卷心菜、manchego 芝士、tchatchouka 中東燴菜。

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Poultry breast Arbre Sec (208 RMB), served with macaroni and celery stick. Smooth and tender, a result of sous vide cooking.

“Poultry Breast Arbre Sec”(208 元): Arbre Sec 雞胸肉、彎管面、芹菜。這道菜上來的時候大家都看不出是什麽東西,一塊塊光滑的雞肉包裹在醬汁之中,還被以爲是某種根莖類蔬菜。肉質非常軟嫩均勻,應該是用低溫慢煮而成的。

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Sea salt-grilled sea bream (188 RMB), red quinoa, onion petals, Beurre Nantais.

“Sea Salt-Grilled Sea Bream”(188元):海鹽炙烤海鲷魚、紅藜麥、洋蔥瓣、beurre Nantais 南特奶油。

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Next up, desserts. Pastry chef Clement Ayache, like Romain Chapel, has followed Pierre Gagnaire for a number of years, and was most recently at his Vietnam outpost before coming to Shanghai. There were 9 items on the dessert menu and we ordered one of each (except the seasonal fruits) because of course that’s the reasonable thing to do, right? My favorite was Chocolat Comptoir #0001 (80 RMB): Caraibes chocolate ganache, smoked Weiss chocolate ice cream, passion fruit custard cream. A lovely balance between the acidity from the passion fruit and the bittersweet from the chocolate.

接下來,就是甜點了。這裏的甜點主廚 Clement Ayache 同樣也跟隨了 Pierre Gagnaire 多年,來上海之前在 Gagnaire 越南的餐廳任職。菜單上總共 9 個甜點選項,我和朋友們除了水果沙拉之外全點了(必須的)。嘗了一圈下來,特別喜歡的是 “Chocolat Comptoir #0001″(80 元):Caraibe 巧克力甘納許、煙熏 Weiss 巧克力冰淇淋、百香果卡仕達醬。百香果的酸甜和巧克力的苦甜搭配的非常平衡,完全不膩,再加上脆片的口感,整體更爲豐富。

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I also quite enjoyed Profiteroles (70 RMB) for its strong, straight-forward hazelnut flavor: praline profiterole and caramelized hazelnuts, Dulcey chocolate ganache, Calvados flavored fudge.

也很喜歡榛果味純正濃郁的 “Profiteroles”(70 元):焦糖榛果泡芙、Dulcey 巧克力甘納許、蘋果白蘭地風味焦糖。

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Another dish much applauded by the table was Crepe Georges (80 RMB), a souffleed crepe flavored with grand marnier, caramelized orange syrup perfumed with star anise, Mulberry coulis, vanilla ice cream.

很受朋友們歡迎的還有 “Crepe Georges”(80 元):Grand Marnier 橙味甜酒舒芙蕾可麗餅、焦糖橙味八角糖漿、搭配香菜冰淇淋和桑椹醬汁。

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For something on the lighter end, try Tchouki (70 RMB): soya milk like a flan, two ice cream flavors of the day, lemon mousse, frosted banana and lime.

想要清爽一點的話,可以嘗試 “Tchouki”(70 元):豆奶奶凍、每日雙味冰淇淋、檸檬慕斯、冰凍香蕉和青檸。

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Arlette (70 RMB): crispy puff pastry, pineapple/aloe-vera/Limoncello flavored lemon cream.

“Arlette”(70 元):脆千層酥皮、檸檬/蘆荟/Limoncello酒味檸檬醬。

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Palet Guimet (70 RMB): biscuit Joconde / biscuit Success / kirsch flavored paressuese cream, fresh raspberry marmalade.

“Palet Guimet”(70 元):杏仁海綿蛋糕、杏仁餅、櫻桃酒風味奶油、新鮮樹莓果醬。

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“Montelimar” (80 RMB): frozen nougat Montelimar, apricot and rosemary syrup.

“Montelimar”(80 元):蒙特利馬冰凍牛紮糖、杏桃迷叠香糖漿。

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“Olacuba” (80 RMB): aged rum flavored frozen croquant, marmalade of citrus fruits spiced with pepper from Jamaica.

“Olacuba”(80 元):陳年朗姆酒風味冰凍脆片、牙買加胡椒風味柑橘果醬。

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Chef Ayache 的甜點用了許多傳統法式的元素,比如 arlette、biscuit succes、nougat Montelimar,不過呈現出來的造型和口味都頗爲新穎。這非常吻合和 Pierre Gagnaire 的料理理念 - “Tourné vers demain mais soucieux d’hier”(面向明日,但尊敬昨日)。這一頓晚飯 20 幾道菜嘗下來,自然有喜歡的也有無感的,不過總的來說絕對是一家令我想要再訪的餐廳。價格方面,我們一桌不含酒水人均約 400 元,以這樣的料理和環境(加上 Pierre Gagnaire 的光環)來說是非常合理的價格。

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诶,還等啥呢?
Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire

地址:建國西路480號嘉佩樂酒店2樓
電話:5466 9928
營業時間:平日6-10pm 六日 6-10:30pm(目前僅提供晚餐)
價位:晚餐 400元+/人
造訪:2017年7月

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Written by sugarednspiced

July 28th, 2017 at 3:09 am

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