Sugared & Spiced

pâtissière in paris, now shanghai

[Shanghai 上海] Chez Maurice

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Chez Maurice

Add: 2F, 50 Tai’an Road, near Xingguo Road
Tel: 62299668
Hours: 5:30-10:30pm (closed on Tue)
Price: 350-400RMB/person
Visited: Feb 2016

It’s been 5 months since I moved back from Paris, and it’s about time that I start missing sipping wine and snacking on charcuterie boards. It just so happens that Chez Maurice opened last month, and rumor has it that it’s a casual French bistro with excellent charcuterie – just what I have in mind – so I gathered a few friends for a taste of it.

去年 10 月從巴黎回上海後,都還沒吃過幾次法國菜。可能是離開亞洲一陣子了吧?滿腦子都是中餐、日料、泰國菜等等,雖然上海法式餐館也不少,就沒想到要去。不過一晃眼五個月過去了,最近開始懷念起在巴黎小館子裏和三兩好友喝酒吃 charcuterie 的日子,正好上個月 Chez Maurice 開幕了,聽說風格就是輕松的法式小餐館,便和朋友相約去嚐了嚐。

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The location is a 4-story house on Tai’an Road, right above Heyday the jazz bar. Chez Maurice The Grill is on the second floor, and there’s also a Chez Maurice Wine Bar on the third floor plus a Japanese sake bar on the fourth, all by the same owner.

Chez Maurice 位于泰安路 50 號的四層樓洋房裏,我去的是二樓的 Chez Maurice The Grill,老板還在三樓開了 Chez Maurice Wine Bar & Charcuterie,以及四樓的 Revive 日式酒吧。三樓四樓還沒試過,Chez Maurice The Grill 倒是前後去了兩次,今天先分享下在這裏的晚餐。

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The menu is short and succinct – just one page. The charcuterie craft here was taught by Monsieur Maurice, a French grandpa whose family has been in the meat business for generations, and apparently he’s in Shanghai every few months to check up on the bistro named after himself. I first tried Le Foie Gras au Torchon (78 RMB), duck liver with Port wine blackberry sauce and country bread. Excellent, just like what you would get in Paris.

菜單,不啰嗦的只有一頁 - 是我喜歡的長短。聽說這裏的 charcuterie(餐廳很直接很貼切的翻譯爲 “殺豬菜”)是由一位法國老先生 Maurice 手把手教出來的。首先點了份 Le Foie Gras au Torchon(78元)鴨肝、搭配波特酒黑莓果醬和鄉村面包,是巴黎餐館的水准,非常令人滿意。順便一提,”torchon” 是廚房裏用的布,這道菜的做法是將鵝或鴨肝用布包好放入水中煮,所以成品是圓柱狀切出的圓片。

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Next was Le Célèbre Boudin Blanc Truffé de Maurice (68 RMB), the famed truffled sausage from Mr. Maurice, accompanied by red wine pear sauce. Succulent and full of flavors, so delicious that we ordered this on both visits, though I heard that this is going off the menu soon.

下一道 Le Célèbre Boudin Blanc Truffé de Maurice(68元)主廚推薦松露肉腸佐紅酒梨子果醬。香嫩多汁,兩次來都有點這道,不過聽說過段時間就不會在菜單上了,想要試的請早。

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La Terrine de Campagne (58 RMB), pork terrine with pickles and mustard. Not bad, not memorable.

La Terrine de Campagne(58元)法式豬凍、腌菜、芥末醬。不錯,不過印象不深。

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Anna Bautista (ex-chef of Coquille) is the consulting chef here at Chez Maurice, and you can see her name on the next dish we tired: Le Tartare de Boeuf au Couteau d’Anna (88 RMB).

Le Tartare de Boeuf au Couteau d’Anna(88元)主廚牛肉踏踏。看到這道菜的名字我才想起 Chez Maurice 的顧問是上海另一家法式餐廳 Coquille 的前主廚 Anna Bautista,據說是個很厲害的廚師。這道生牛肉踏踏,的確好吃。

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La Salade de Poire, Raddichio & Champignons (68 RMB), a salad of pear, raddicchio, mushrooms, black truffle, Romano cheese, and apple vinegar. Very good, and especially refreshing after all those meat appetizers.

La Salade de Poire, Raddichio & Champignons(68元)冬日沙拉:香梨、小蘿蔔、巴黎蘑菇、黑松露、羅馬諾奶酪、蘋果醋。剛才那麽多肉下肚之後,格外需要這份清爽的全素沙拉。

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One simply can’t eat at a French bistro without some wine, and the selection at Chez Maurice are all organic, biodynamic, or natural.

在法式小餐館吃飯,酒肯必須要來一瓶。Chez Maurice的 餐廳和樓上的 Wine Bar 分別有專業侍酒師,選的都是organic, biodynamic, 和 natural wine。

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Next, to the steaks. Chez Maurice calls itself a grill, so naturally I had high expectations of the steak section, but to be honest I was disappointed on both visits. The first time we ordered L’Entrecôte de Boeuf Australien Angus (268 RMB/300g), which came out a lot more done that the medium rare we had requested.

接下來到了牛排的部份。Chez Maurice 自稱是個 grill,我對它的菜單上 Le Boeuf 這個部份期望是高的,不過老實說兩次來都對牛排有些失望。第一次,點了 L’Entrecôte de Boeuf Australien Angus(300g 268元)澳大利亞安格斯肉眼,菜單上還特別注明了農場名字以及是 “120天谷物飼養” 的牛,顯然是花了心思的,不過上桌時過熟了,不是我們要求的3分。

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On my second visit, my friend happened to order the same steak, which did come out very rare (rarer than we had expected actually) but without much flavor. Another disappointment. On that note, the steaks do come with fries and a sauce, with options of green pepper, béarnaise, chimichuri, and American sauce. The last one was recommended by the waitress and did somewhat salvage the steak…

第二次一起同行的朋友碰巧也點了一樣的牛排並且要求三分熟,這次的確時非常生(其實比我們想象的都更生…),但是肉沒什麽香味,再次失望。對了,這裏的牛排有付薯條和醬汁,可以選擇主廚秘制美式醬汁、綠胡椒奶油醬、法式蛋黃醬、或阿根廷辣醬汁。

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Laguiole knife.

牛排刀是Laguiole的好刀子。

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Side dishes, on the other hand, were not bad at all. I tried Les Choux de Bruxelles & Bacon (38 RMB) brussel sprouts with bacon, as well as La Fricassée de Champignons (38 RMB), mushrooms sauteed in butter, garlic, and white wine, both tasty.

配菜倒是不錯。我們試了兩種,Les Choux de Bruxelles & Bacon(38元)孢子甘藍、培根、奶油、小乾蔥,以及 La Fricassée de Champignons(38元)香煎菇菌、奶油、香蒜、白葡萄酒,都好吃。

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They also offer one or two cocotte dishes depending on the season, such as this Le Fletan en Cocotte (148 RMB), a stew of flounder, white beans, pork belly, tomato, sweet pepper, and egg.

Chez Maurice 也會有一些根據食材變化的炖菜,比如這道 Le Fletan en Cocotte(148元)香炖比目魚、雲南白豆、五花肉、番茄、甜椒、蛋。很溫暖的一鍋。

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Desserts are classic French ones, nothing too fancy, but done quite well. I especially liked La Tarte aux Pommes façon Tatin (48 RMB), puff pastry with caramelized apple, and La Creme Brulée de Mon Amie Ilhame (48 RMB) is quite nice too.

甜點,La Tarte aux Pommes façon Tatin(48元)主廚焦糖蘋果塔,喜歡。La Creme Brulée de Mon Amie Ilhame(48元)經典法式香草焦糖炖蛋,不錯。

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La Mousse au Chocolat (48 RMB) was ok.

La Mousse au Chocolat(48元)巧克力慕斯,還好。

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My two visits to Chez Maurice were consistent in terms of experience. The charcuterie, salad, and side dishes were all done well, desserts were nice too considering the price and portion, but the steaks were disappointing. So for now, I’d say go for everything except the steak…and hopefully that section will be improved in the near future.

這兩次來 Chez Maurice 吃晚飯的感覺還挺一致的。Charcuterie、沙拉、配菜都非常好,甜點以價格和味道來說都是不錯的,就是牛排令人失望了。我想下次可能會去三樓試試 wine bar 吧,如果只是三兩好友小聚喝喝酒配點 charcuterie,應該會是很好的選擇。

 

Chez Maurice

地址:泰安路50號3樓,近興國路
電話:62299668
營業時間:5:30-10:30pm(周二休)
價位:350-400元/人
造訪:2016年2月

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Written by sugarednspiced

March 1st, 2016 at 3:16 am