Sugared & Spiced

pâtissière in paris, now shanghai

[Shanghai 上海] Bo Shanghai (2)

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Bo Shanghai

Add: 6F, Bund 5, 20 Guangdong Lu
Tel: 5383 3656
Hours: 6-11pm
Price: dinner set 1680 RMB + 10%,wine pairing + 650~850 RMB
Visited: Apr 2017

Please note that this was an invited tasting arranged by the restaurant.

6 months after its grand opening last year, Bo Shanghai finally released its menu 2.0. What’s new?

請注意本次為餐廳安排試吃。

繼去年10月在上海外灘五號風風火火地開幕後,Bo Shanghai 终于推出了他们的第二套菜单。这个醞釀了 6 個月之久的新菜單,到底有什麼內容呢?

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But first, a quick intro for those who didn’t already know about this restaurant. Bo Shanghai is the brainchild of Alvin Leung of the Bo Innovation (Hong Kong) fame, the cuisine is French inspired by China’s 8 regional cuisines. The kitchen here, helmed by head chefs DeAille and Simon, creates dishes that are completely different from what’s on offer in Hong Kong. Click here to read more about Bo Shanghai’s grand opening last year.

先給還不知道這家餐廳的人一個簡短的介紹:Bo Shanghai 是香港米其林三星的 Bo Innovation 的 “廚魔” Alvin Leung 在上海開的分店,用法國料理極致繁複的手法诠釋了來自中國八大菜系的靈感,由主廚 DeAille 和 Simon 呈現出和香港店完全不同的創意。想要了解更多,可以點擊這裡閱讀去年開幕時我寫的文章。

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The new menu is 12 courses long (1680 RMB + 10%), which is two dishes more than its predecessor (and unsurprisingly more expensive), with wine pairing at another 650 RMB (3 glasses) or 850 RMB (5 glasses). At this price point, Bo Shanghai certainly isn’t a restaurant to walk into casually…but the new menu does showcase the tremendous amount of thoughts the chefs have poured into its creation.

新菜單是一份 12 道式套餐(1680 元 + 10%),比之前的多了兩道(自然價格也上去了),配酒另加 650 元(3杯)或 850 元(5杯)。價格如此昂貴的 Bo Shanghai 顯然不是一家可以隨便走進去的餐廳…不過新菜單的確比之前更細致更華麗,用餐過程中主廚們詳細的解釋也讓人感受到他們在設計每一道料理時的用心。

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The amuse bouche, a duo of “molecular xiaolongbao” and Shanghainese kaofu, hasn’t changed. The “molecular xiaolongbao” is a classic creation from Alvin, its skin made from seaweed extractions, wrapping a soup that tastes exactly like xiaolongbao, adorned with a piece of vinegared ginger. As it bursts in the mouth, the soup is released…a sensation.

開胃小點倒是沒有變,和上份菜單一樣是 “分子小籠包” 以及 “烤麸”。其中分子小籠包是 Alvin 的經典創作之一,海藻制成的薄皮裹著高湯,上面點綴著一片用醋泡過的薑,放入嘴裏後輕壓便破裂,釋放出鮮味十足的小籠包風味。

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Next came to the new menu. 1st course: Hunan, braised fish head with preserved and fermented chilli – torched Japanese kinmedai, dehydrated spicy sauce, watercress puree, paojiao (pickling liquid) vinaigrette.

接下來,才是新菜單。第一道靈感:湖南,剁椒魚頭。創意呈現:微微炙烤過的日本金目鲷、豆瓣醬粉末、水甕菜泥、泡椒風味醬汁。

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2nd course: Fujian, oyster pancake – butter-poached Normandy oysters, fish sauce, philo pastry, micro salad of chevril, tarragon, and Belgian endive, light vinaigrette, fish sauce hollandaise, Yunnan caviar.

第二道靈感:福建,蚵仔煎。創意呈現:黃油慢煮諾曼底生蚝、魚露、薄片酥皮、茴芹、龍嵩、比利時菊苣迷你沙拉、雲南魚子醬、魚露荷蘭醬。

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3rd course: Guangdong, baozaifan – raw Hokkaido scallop, lemon oil, fresh pea puree, homemade XO sauce, puffed rice with XO powder, fresh green peas, cognac tomato jelly.

第三道靈感:廣東,煲仔飯。創意呈現:北海道干貝、檸檬油、青豆泥、自制 XO 醬、脆米、新鮮青豆、Cognac 番茄凍。

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4th dish: Jiangsu, duck – kumquat filled with braised duck leg and mandarin peel, orange sauce with coriander and fresh oregano, mandarin peel oil, fried oregano chips, pickled mustard seeds. (The chefs played on the concept of duck a l’orange and made an orange a la duck instead…)

第四道靈感:江蘇,鴨。創意呈現:糖漬金桔、鴨腿肉、橙皮、橙子+香菜+牛至醬汁、蘋果醋腌漬芥末籽。(主廚們將法國料理 duck a l’orange 做成了 orange a la duck,把原本鴨子裏填橘子改成了橘子裏填鴨子,有點幽默。)

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5th course: Anhui, crayfish – Brittany blue lobster, dried matsutake-based cream (infused with buttermilk, capsella, and piment d’Esplette), 24-month Anhui ham, mushrooms, lobster oil.

第五道靈感:安徽,小龍蝦。創意呈現:布列塔尼藍龍蝦、松茸醬汁(用酪奶和一點點法國辣椒調味)、蘑菇、24月份熟成安徽火腿、龍蝦油。

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Breads: “Congyoubing” filling of green onions, lard, and sesame, beetroot dinner roll, Chinese olive brioche.

面包:“蔥油餅” 青蔥面包、甜菜根面包,以及橄榄面包。

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6th course: Sichuan, Sichuan peppercorn – pan-seared Rougie duck liver, Herbe de Provence green sauce with fresh peppercorn, pickled tripe, lavender gel, confit duck kidney (cooked in duck fat for 3 hours till it’s tender, then submerged in a chilli sesame oil), Chinese artichoke.

第六道靈感:四川,花椒。創意呈現:Rougie 鴨肝、花椒 Herbe de Provence 青醬、牛肚,薰衣草膠、油封鴨腎,草石蠶。料理的每一個組成部分都花了不少功夫,比如那一小小塊鴨腎,必須先用鴨油煮3個小時直至酥軟,再泡入紅油裏入味。

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7th course: Zhejiang, Shezitou (lion head) – meatball made from Iberico jowl (leaner than the traditional Shizitou), crab stock, wawacai, Japanese sea urchin, vin jaune crab roe sauce.

第七道靈感:浙江,獅子頭。創意呈現:肥瘦相間黑毛豬豬頸肉獅子頭、蟹肉高湯、娃娃菜裏、模仿蟹黃的口感的海膽,搭配法國 vin jaune 黃酒蟹膏醬汁。

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8th course: horseradish mustard in a biscuit form, yogurt lime sorbet, salted green plum, horseradish tuile.

第八道:山葵芥末餅乾、酸奶青檸雪酪、鹹青梅、山葵汁脆片。

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9th course: Anhui, stinky tofu – shiitake cake with French blue cheese, M9+ Wagyu sirloin from Australia, braised spring bamboo in ham stock.

第九道靈感:安徽,臭豆腐。創意呈現:香菇、法國藍紋芝士、澳洲 M9+ 和牛、春筍。春筍選的是非常嫩的部分,用火腿蔬菜高湯慢煮後更是鮮美。

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10th course: Shandong, rice – Italian risotto rice, chicken oil, condensed chicken stock, seaweed puree, butter-brased Japanese abalone, sauteed morel mushrooms.

第十道靈感:山東,大米。意大利炖飯、雞油、濃縮雞湯、法國羊肚菌、黃油慢煮北海道鮑魚。

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11th course: Hunan, orange – orange blossom panna cotta, orange ice-cream, blood orange gel, almond ice.

第十一道靈感:湖南,橙子。創意呈現:橙花奶酪、橙子冰淇淋、血橙果泥、北杏南杏杏仁冰。

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12th course: Spring blossom – rose jam, hibiscus gelee, chrysanthemum ice-cream, wolfberry cake, strawberry mousse, dehydrated strawberry, osmanthus gel, stencil butterly.

第十二道:百花齊放。創意呈現:玫瑰醬、扶桑花果凍、菊花冰淇淋、枸杞蛋糕、草莓慕斯、干燥草莓、桂花膠、糖藝蝴蝶。

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Petits fours: Piña Colada marshmallow (coconut marshmallow with pineapple jam), osmanthus honey madeleine, apricot matcha pop rock candy.

最後的 petit fours 小甜點:Piña Colada 棉花糖(椰子口味棉花糖搭配鳳梨果醬)、桂花蜂蜜瑪德蓮、杏子綠茶跳跳糖。

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The new menu does reveal how much mental effort (in coming up with the concepts) and physical work (in testing and refining the dishes) the chefs have put in. In fact, they have even designed another set menu at 1080 RMB + 10%, comprised of 10 dishes that are completely different from the ones in the 12-course menu. Tough stuff. Having said that, I wonder how many people in Shanghai would be willing to shell out this much money for the sake of trying their new creations. Would you?

從新菜單的精緻度和複雜度可以看出主廚們從構思到測試至最終的完善所花費的心力。其實,他們還另外設計了一個價位 1080 元 + 10% 的 7 道式菜單,和 12 道式的菜單完全沒有重複的菜色,實在非常用心。不過我很好奇上海有多少人願意花如此昂貴的價錢去嚐嚐他們的創意,畢竟無論是12道式還是7道式的菜單價格都不是一個小數字。你,願意嗎?

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Bo Shanghai

地址:上海市廣東路20號外灘五號6樓
電話:5383 3656
營業時間:6-11pm
價位:套餐1680 RMB + 10%,配酒另加 650~850 RMB
造訪:2017年4月

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Written by sugarednspiced

June 13th, 2017 at 4:37 pm

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