Sugared & Spiced

pâtissière in paris, now shanghai

[Shanghai] Mr & Mrs Bund

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Mr & Mrs Bund

Add: 6/F, Bund 18, 18 Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu, near Nanjing Dong Lu 中山东一路18号6楼, 近南京东路
Tel: 6323 9898
Hours: [lunch] Mon-Fri 11:30am-2pm [dinner] Tue-Sat 6:30pm-4am, Sun-Mon 6:30-10:30pm
Price: [lunch] 200~250RMB [dinner] 400+RMB
Visited: Feb 2011 (visit 2)

The modern French restaurant by Paul Pairet was recommended to me by a number of food lovers, so I found myself outside its bright red and green door one day. I rang the doorbell (yes there’s a door bell), and was ushered in.

We were promptly served a bread basket and the amuse bouche, which consisted of toasted thins, a tuna mousse, and butter. The tuna mousse, whimsically served in a peeled-back tuna can, was ethereally airy and full of peppery tuna flavor – delightful.

Our first appetizer, foie gras light crumble (110 RMB), was a contrast of crunchy fruity topping of raisins and hazelnuts with velvety smooth duck foie gras mousse underneath. Served with a thick cut of toasted bread and slices of fresh green apple, the portion was generous enough to feed two people.

In comparison, the beef carpaccio (125 RMB) was less of a hit. The cuts were thicker than the typical thin slices, which made it quite chewy.

Black cod in bag (240 RMB), recommended as a Paul Pairet specialty, indeed came in a bag. Our waiter then proceeded to cut open the heat-proof pouch, poured the Cantonese sauce into a bowl of rice, then placed the fish on top. Perhaps because I’ve had plenty of very tasty fish dishes in Chinese restaurants, the cod itself did not stand out too much (though it was certainly very nicely done).

When the long short rib teriyaki (350 RMB) arrived at our table, we stared in awe at its size. My pictures below really don’t do justice on how enormous the rib is. Usually served for two people, the cut came with the bone intact, and was simply presented on the plate with a smear of orange reduction and  a few flakes of garlic chips. We surprised ourselves by finishing the whole thing, which was tender, juicy, and intensely flavorful.

We each chose a side to complement our main dishes. The tomato salad with tomato vinaigrette dressing was refreshing, and the mashed potato was rich, thick, and fragrant with a load of butter. Delicious.

Finally, desserts, my favorite moment. I did not have to look at the menu to know that I would order the lemon & lemon tart (100 RMB), a specialty of Paul Pairet that was ranked #2 Western dessert in Shanghai by CNNGo. What is this masterpiece? A lemon is hollowed out until the skin is translucent, then poached and candied in sugar syrup. As each order is placed, the lemon skin is filled with lemon sorbet, lemon curd, fresh orange and grapefruit slices, and vanilla Chantilly cream. The result of this 3-day process is a simply presented lemon with a delicate stick of sablé balanced dandily on top. Slice open the candied yet bitter lemon rind and out oozes the sweet-tangy blend of sorbet, curd, and Chantilly. It’s no wonder that this has been garnering oohs and ahhs.

I only tried a little bit of the mango licorice sablé and don’t remember much of it. I suppose that after the Lemon & Lemon Tart, many things would pale in comparison…

While dinner at Mr & Mrs Bund would easily cost more than 400 RMB, lunch sets are priced at a reasonable 200~250 RMB depending on the number of dishes you order. They also offer a 2-course late-night menu after 11pm for 200 RMB, which sounds like a great deal as well (and it’s open till 4am!). Well then, what are you waiting for?

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Written by sugarednspiced

February 15th, 2011 at 8:52 pm