Sugared & Spiced

pâtissière in paris, now shanghai

[Shanghai] Kappo Yu 割烹雄

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Kappo Yu 割烹雄

Add: 33 Wuxing Lu, near Huaihai Lu 吴兴路33号,近淮海路
Tel: 6466 7855
Hours: 6-11pm (closed Sunday)
Price: 690 RMB/person, drinks extra
Visited: Jun 2011

I can’t say enough good things about Sushi Oyama, so naturally I had high expectations for its sister restaurant Kappo Yu. Unfortunately I went to Kappo Yu right before my Euro trip and wasn’t able to get the post up before I left, so a lot of details are lost in time….but let’s take a look at what’s still resonating in my head.

What does “sister restaurant” mean, anyway? From what I heard that evening, the two restaurants are under the same management. Oyama-san oversees/advises the menu at Kappo Yu, and the food is prepared by Yohei Terada, a young chef who was previously at Tokyo’s Nobu.

While Sushi Oyama serves – you’ve guessed it – sushi, Kappo Yu is more kaiseki-style. The 10-course seasonal menu (690 RMB/set) changes monthly, but if you visit Kappo Yu more than once in a month, the chef would be happy to modify the menu for you.

Here’s Chef Terada, very friendly guy.

The first dish, Kuruma prawn and sea urchin with edamame mousse, won my heart instantly. Refreshing, full of flavors and textures that weaved wonderfully together. Loved it, loved it, loved it.

Unfortunately most other dishes are a blur to me now. I’ll leave you with pictures and dish names just to see what a dinner at Kappo Yu might look like.

Grilled Japanese eggplant with wagyu beef

Assorted sashimi and nigiri sushi

Olive oil soy sauce and plum sauce

Scorched otoro sushi

Unknown white fish #1

Unknown white fish #2

Otoro (fatty tuna belly)

Tempura: king crab, oyster, assorted vegetables

Japanese organic salad with red clam

Foie gras with mango with teriyaki sauce

Grilled nodoguro with clam consomme

Grilled nodoguro with clam consomme

Though a lot of time has passed since this dinner, there was one dish that left a clear mark in my memory, and that would be the chirashi sushi. Glistening crimson heaps of salmon roe, soft pink chopped tuna, creamy yellow quail egg and fried egg slices, and a few pieces of dried seaweed here and there, all atop a mound of perfectly cooked Japanese sushi rice. The elements combined beautifully together, and this dish tied with the edamame mousse appetizer as my favorites of the evening.

Chirashi sushi (quail egg, tuna, salmon roe, seaweed)

Chirashi sushi (quail egg, tuna, salmon roe, seaweed)

A trio of desserts, especially loved the mango ice-cream.

Assorted desserts

Mango ice-cream, panna cotta, green tea

Chocolate with mango sauce

We were lucky to visit Kappo Yu in June when the restaurant gave out plum wine as a celebration of their one year anniversary.

I wasn’t completely satisfied with this first visit to Kappo Yu – while a few dishes were truly delicious, most were a blur. However, quite a lot of my foodie friends consider it as good as Sushi Oyama, so perhaps a few more visits is needed to really see what Chef Terada has got in his sleeves…

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Written by sugarednspiced

July 17th, 2011 at 10:34 pm