Sugared & Spiced

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[Hangzhou 杭州] Amanfayun 法雲安縵

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Amanfayun

Add: 22 Fayun Lane, West Lake Street, West Lake Scenic Area, Hangzhou
Tel: 571 8732 9999
Website: www.aman.com
Price: from 5865 rmb/night
Visited: Mar 2017

As Spring descends upon us, a get-away to Hangzhou – a city known for its beautiful West Lake, fragrant Longjing tea, and historical temples (and just a 50-minute train ride from Shanghai!) – seems almost obligatory. While looking up accommodations for this mini trip, I had my eyes fixed on Amanfayun, an Aman Resort restored from a centuries-old village surrounded by tea plantations and bamboo groves – sounds surreal, no?

這次杭州兩日小旅行,住在法雲安缦。與其說是因爲想去杭州而住安缦,更准確地說應該是因爲安缦而選擇了杭州。之前曾住過北京的頤和安缦,對這個酒店集團稍有了解 - “Aman” 是梵語裏和平、庇護的意思,而安缦酒店的特征,就是對甯靜、和諧、私密的注重,選址多在文化和曆史結合的地方,如坐落于麗江古鎮的大研安缦,與頤和園一牆之隔的頤和安缦,還有我這次入住,改造于古村落法雲村的法雲安缦。

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Amanfayun lies hidden in a valley to the west of West Lake, a UNESCO World Heritage Site famed for its idyllic scenery, and is surrounded by 7 temples – Yongfu Si, Lingyin Si, Faxi Si, to name a few. One cannot help but be effected by its calming ambience upon entering the site, and all worldly troubles, whatever they may be, are left at the gate.

酒店位于西湖西側的山谷之中,距杭州市中心20分鍾車程,是個在永福寺、靈隱寺、法喜寺等七座寺院庇護下的空靈之地。延續西湖畔傳統村落布局與氣息,酒店由幽靜石徑及蔭郁庭院交織而成, 踏入的瞬間就能感受到安詳和靜谧。

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The receptionist first served us a pot of Hangzhou’s famed Longjing Tea, picked from Amanfayun’s own tea plantation, before proceeding with the check-in process.

入座後,工作人員先端上一壺自家種的龍井茶,再開始辦理入住手續。本來因爲從高鐵車站一路堵車到酒店而煩躁的心情,瞬間舒暢了。

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Understated elegance in every angle.

每一個角度都是低調含蓄的美。

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The uniforms are also in a color that blends in with the surroundings.

服務員的制服也用了能與村落色調融合的褐色。

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Each Aman Resort location has been carefully selected and designed, so that it blends in with the local culture and natural scenery. Jaya Pratomo Ibrahim, the designer of Amanfayun, took the time to visit nearby villages, tea plantations, and temples, before concluding that Fayun Village itself is a treasure, and that all he needed to do was to preserve its original beauty during the renovation process.

每一個安缦的選址和改造設計上都先經過考察研究,讓酒店和當地的人文精神與自然景觀融合。法雲安缦的設計師 Jaya Pratomo Ibrahim 走訪了杭州周邊村落、茶園和寺院後說:“這個村子已經很美了,所以我要做的,只是盡量保持它原來的樣子”,並在不破壞村落原始磚瓦結構的基礎上將老房子們做了修繕。

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After renovation, Amanfayun is comprised of 42 rooms, suites and villas, each of them with a unique structure. I stayed in a village room of about 66 sqm, beautifully decorated in an understated elegant way – calligraphy on the wall, daybeds, and intentionally dim-lighting to recreate the ancient village vibe.

改造後的法雲安缦共有 42 棟獨立的院落,每棟建築的結構都獨一無二,每個房間也各有不相同。我這次入住的是大約 66 平米的村莊客舍 “福間”,房內走道和地板均爲石材鋪置,色調素雅、格局精簡; 房間沒有電子門卡,用的是竹節鑰匙圈和鑰匙。

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The only initial problem I noticed about the room was that it was extremely hot – we had to turn off the air-conditioning and tone down the under-floor heating before the temperature dropped to a comfortable degree.

入門時迎接我們的是悅耳的古樂,以及和刻意昏暗,符合老村落感覺的燈光,心情又更放松了不少。不過一開始房間裏實在太熱了,直到我們關掉暖氣再調低地暖後才剛剛好。

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Maps of the resort and of the nearby temples.

酒店內以及周邊寺廟的地圖。

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Longjing Tea, and complimentary mini bar.

​酒店自家種的龍井茶,以及冰箱裏的各式飲料都無需另外收費。

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Ultra comfortable bed.

極舒服的床。

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Each room comes with under-floor heating, iPod-compatible Bose sound systems, wifi, and a rather hidden TV (I doubt anyone’d have to urge to turn this on while they are here).

房間裏有地暖、與 ipod 相容的 Bose 音響系統、wi-fi,還有這個相當低調的電視,不過住在這裏應該完全不會有看電視的欲望吧。

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The bathroom is also more than spacious, equipped with double basins, shower, toilet, stool, vanity mirror, and all the basic toiletries one would need. There are, however, a few problems that I noticed: the faucet placement is very close to the edge of the wash basin, and water spills out quite easily; there is only one stool for two guests, a bit of an inconvenience; the under-floor heating in the toilet is very hot (almost scorches the feet) despite temperature adjustment.

浴室有雙盆洗臉台、衛生間、淋浴室,並配有小凳子以及內置燈光的放大鏡,方便女客化妝。不過個人覺得有幾個小問題:水龍頭離洗臉台邊緣很近,用水時不小心的話容易潑出來;小凳子只有一個,如果兩位房客都要用的時候較不方便;衛生間的地暖調低幾個小時後都還有些燙腳(房間其他地方沒有這個問題)。

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Shampoo, conditioner, and lotion are placed in porcelain jars instead of travel-sized packages, partly to make guests feel more at home, and partly to decrease packaging for environmental reasons. I couldn’t help but wonder, however, about  what they do with the leftover toiletries after guests left? They can’t just dump those because that’d be a huge waste, but they can’t keep them for the next guests either…right?

洗臉台上的白瓷瓶裏有浴帽、化妝棉、棉簽盒、潤膚露等。安缦的盥洗産品都沒有 logo,用的也不是一次性瓶子,一方面爲了環保,一方面是因爲想營造家的感覺;雖然理解這個理念,不過心裏有個疑惑:沒用完的沐浴露等總不能浪費地扔掉,但若留給下一個客人,不會有衛生方面的問題嗎?

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There are some restrictions with the old piping system at Amanfayun as it’s renovated from an old village, so hot showers are available for only 30 minutes at a time (don’t forget to wait for 10-15 minutes afterwards for water to boil again). There’s no bath in the rooms, but complimentary bath is available by reservation at the Spa center.

入住時工作人員提醒說由于法雲古村在管道上有局限,所以熱水是用電熱水器供應,一次只能用 30 分鍾,兩個人中間最好隔10-15分鍾。浴室裏沒有浴缸,不過可以到 Spa 館預約免費木桶浴(非常推薦)。

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After check-in, we headed to Steam House for lunch. There are five F&B options at Amanfayun scattered around Fayun Pathway, the main walkway running the full extent of the property. This pathway is open to the public, and we saw tourists and monks pass through it during the day to visit the Buddhist temples in the area. From I could tell, there are hotel staff on service along the pathway, so privacy and security seemed to not be an issue.

在房間安頓好之後已過中午,決定去酒店的 “蒸菜館” 吃個午飯。由于安缦法雲位于景區裏,貫穿酒店的青石小徑並未封閉,偶而會碰到順道而行的遊人以及佛學院學生,所有餐廳和茶館也都是開放給非房客的。通往前台和房間的路口有酒店工作人員手拿對講機守候,一般來說隱私不是太大的問題。

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Tea trees.

路過法雲安缦的茶園。

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From our room, it was a short five-minute walk to the Steam House.

從房間步行五分鍾左右來到蒸菜館。

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It was almost 2pm when we arrived. The restaurant was quiet with only 2~3 tables of guests, and beautiful afternoon light streaming in from the windows.

抵達時已快兩點,餐廳裏非常安靜,只有兩三桌客人。

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Seasonal vegetables.

清炒時蔬。

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Steamed Qiantang River sea bass with soy sauce.

豉油蒸桂魚。

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Steamed Yunnan mushroom soup.

山野菌菇湯。

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Chopped stewed pork stuffed in buns.

肉夾馍。

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Hangzhou-style noodle soup with sliced pork and preserved vegetable.

片兒川。

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Red dates cake with lotus paste, and double-boiled sweet papaya with white fungus.

紅棗蓮蓉松糕和木瓜炖銀耳。

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Other than the rather forgettable Hangzhou-style noodles, I enjoyed every dish we ordered. The ingredients are mostly local, seasoned minimally to let their natural flavor shine. I especially enjoyed the steamed sea bass and the stewed pork buns, as well as the date cake with lotus paste, served warm and fluffy. A very pleasant meal.

我們點的所有菜裏面,除了片兒川那碗面我覺得實在太平淡之外,其他都非常好。用的大多都是當地的食材,蔬菜極嫩而且帶有自然的甜味、桂魚肉質鮮美緊致、肉夾馍的內餡和面餅搭配完美、紅棗蓮蓉松糕好吃到我一點都舍不得留下,打包帶走了。非常舒服的一餐。

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Though I originally planned to spend the afternoon in Hangzhou city, Amanfayun was so welcoming that I did not have any desire to leave once I got settled. After resting a bit in the room, we took an easy stroll to Yongfu Si right next door; There were almost no other visitors as it was almost closing time, leaving us to enjoy the temple grounds in such precious silence.

本來打算利用下午的時間去杭州市區或者西湖旁邊走走,不過入住法雲安缦後便舍不得離開這裏的清靜了。回房間稍稍休息後,去隔壁的永福寺散了個步。由于已接近關門時間,寺內幾乎無其他香客,能在如此安靜的狀態下參拜,實在幸運。

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After the stroll, a bath in the Spa house.

回到酒店裏,預約了 Spa 館的木桶泡澡。

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There are three suites for bathing, available for hotel guests with no extra charge (though reservation is recommended). Each suite has its own bath, shower, toilet, changing area,resting area, etc.

Spa 館有三個專門供給客人泡浴的套間,需要提前預約但沒有額外費用。套間裏非常寬敞,有休息區、泡澡區、淋浴室、衛生間、更衣室等。

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A cup of butterfly pea-infused tea after the bath to stay hydrated. Amanfayun also has an outdoor swimming pool, gym, yoga room, and spa services if you so desire.

泡完澡之後,喝杯蝶豆茶。法雲安縵另外也有室外泳池、健身房、瑜珈房、spa 服務等。

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The next day, we woke up at 4am to observe morning chanting at Faxi Si. In the dark and in the rain, we were picked up by the resort car and sent to temple, and though I imagined something totally zen (a few monks chanting in an otherwise silent hall), the whole temple was in fact swarming with people as it happened to be the birthday of Bodhisattva, so the whole temple was swarming with people. An interesting experience for sure, thanks for the arrangement of the resort.

爲了第二天早起去附近的寺廟上早課(法雲安缦可幫忙預約和接送)而打消了去喝杯小酒的念頭,泡完早後就回房間休息了。隔天清晨四點多起床,天尚未亮還下著雨,就乘著酒店的車到了法喜寺。本以爲一大早沒什麽人,不過沒想到當天因爲是菩薩誕辰的關系,廟裏站滿了前來念經的香客。雖然和本來想象的完全不同(心裏默默地以爲會很安靜很空靈,真是大誤),不過也是個有趣的體驗。

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The sky was just lighting up as we retreated back to Amanfayun, which was extra beautiful in  the rain and mist.

回到酒店時天才開始微亮。煙雨朦胧的感覺,非常美。

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We then went back to Steam House for breakfast. Though a western restaurant is also available on site, for me it seemed only fitting to have a traditional Chinese breakfast at Amanfayun…

梳洗完畢後,回到蒸菜館用早餐(也可以選擇在西餐廳吃西式早餐,不過感覺在法雲安缦就是要中式到底呀)。

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Hangzhou Traditional Set: beef soup with bean vermicelli, deep-fried chinese dough fritter, Qiantang steamed pork buns, “Dingsheng” cake.

杭式傳統早餐:牛肉粉絲湯、油條、錢塘小籠包、定勝糕。

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Fayun Spring Healthy Set: medlar millet congee, black soy milk, bamboo shoots & wild vegetable buns, steamed whole grains (sweet potato, edamame, yam, corn, arrowheads), deep-fried chinese dough fritter.

春季養生套餐:枸杞小米粥、現磨黑豆奶、荠菜春筍包、養生五谷雜糧(紫薯、毛豆、山藥、玉米、慈菇)、油條。

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Freshly made sugar-free soy milk.

豆漿是無糖的,和我自己在家裏做的一樣,非常健康。

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Here’s a sneak peek of the western restaurant, which serves breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea, dinner, and turns into a bar in the evening.

路過西餐廳進去瞧了瞧,不過這次沒有在這裏吃飯。這裏提供早、午、晚餐,也有西式的下午茶,晚上則變成酒吧。

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Cute strawberry family outside the restaurant.

餐廳入口處的可愛草莓小家庭。

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Quite a lot of people recommended the tea house, though I didn’t have a chance to try it this time. Again, all F&B outlets at Amanfayun are open to hotel and non-hotel guests alike, so feel free to come by even if you are not staying at the resort.

不少人都推薦了我去 “和茶館” 喝茶,不過這次只是路過。再提醒一下,法雲安缦裏面的餐廳和茶館都是對外開放的,不一定要是房客才可以來哦。

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Right before leaving Amanfayun, I made my way to Fayun Place, a two-storey building composed of internal courtyards, tea house, cigar room, and reading room.

最後逛到法雲舍,是個只對住客開放的會所。上下兩層面積非常大,有茶室、雪茄室、閱讀室,下午也有傳統的中國文化體驗。

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Chinese cultural classes are available for hotel guests everyday.

當日的文化體驗課是捏泥人。

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Tea room.

茶室。

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Reading room.

閱讀室。

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An interesting thing I noticed was that the entire resort (including the reception, guest rooms, spa house, and even the first floor of Fayun Place) plays the same traditional Chinese instrumental music, but on the second floor of Fayun Place it changes into jazz…a pleasant surprise.

到處都是寬敞舒服的位子,空間大的奢侈。在這裏發現一件有趣的事:酒店所有空間(包括前台、客房、Spa 館、法雲舍的一樓等)放的都是統一的中式古樂,不過法雲舍二樓卻換成輕松的爵士樂,上樓時突然注意到,有點驚訝(驚喜)。

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I was planning to sit for just a few moments before departing, but I started chatting with a hotel staff and her friend, who happened to be a monk visiting from Guangzhou. Before I knew it, almost two hours had passed! A most pleasant surprise, and an inspiring encounter.

本來只打算稍坐片刻後就起身前往下一個目的地,不過和一位酒店工作人員以及她從廣州來訪的法師朋友聊起天來,一不注意就快兩個小時過去了。究竟聊了什麽?诶,聊社會、聊旅行、聊出家…很有意思呢,和樓上的音樂一樣,是個有些突然但令人驚喜的邂逅。要不是因爲回上海之前和朋友約好了在其他地方碰面,還真希望能在這裏多待上些時間。

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If I didn’t have other appointments to attend to before heading back to Shanghai, I would’ve loved to linger for a bit longer at Amanfayun. The time spent here had been so pleasant, perhaps exactly because Aman fits right in with its surroundings, presenting everything in their natural beauty rather than seeking conspicuous luxury. Do come experience it for yourself…

中意安缦,是因爲在這裏非常舒服。這個舒服並非來自高調的奢華,而是來自安缦與周圍環境的和睦相處,一切都自然而然,恰如其分。如果你也有興趣體驗這份內斂、低調、含蓄的美,那麽找個機會來法雲安缦待上一點時間吧,我想你可能會喜歡。

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法雲安缦

地址:杭州西湖景區西湖街道法雲弄22號
電話:571 8732 9999
網站:www.aman.com
價位:每晚 5865 人民幣起
造訪:2017年3月

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Written by sugarednspiced

March 21st, 2017 at 11:18 am