Add: 22 Fayun Lane, West Lake Street, West Lake Scenic Area, Hangzhou
Tel: 571 8732 9999
Price: from 5865 rmb/night
Visited: Mar 2017
As Spring descends upon us, a get-away to Hangzhou – a city known for its beautiful West Lake, fragrant Longjing tea, and historical temples (and just a 50-minute train ride from Shanghai!) – seems almost obligatory. While looking up accommodations for this mini trip, I had my eyes fixed on Amanfayun, an Aman Resort restored from a centuries-old village surrounded by tea plantations and bamboo groves – sounds surreal, no?
這次杭州兩日小旅行，住在法雲安缦。與其說是因爲想去杭州而住安缦，更准確地說應該是因爲安缦而選擇了杭州。之前曾住過北京的頤和安缦，對這個酒店集團稍有了解 － “Aman” 是梵語裏和平、庇護的意思，而安缦酒店的特征，就是對甯靜、和諧、私密的注重，選址多在文化和曆史結合的地方，如坐落于麗江古鎮的大研安缦，與頤和園一牆之隔的頤和安缦，還有我這次入住，改造于古村落法雲村的法雲安缦。
Amanfayun lies hidden in a valley to the west of West Lake, a UNESCO World Heritage Site famed for its idyllic scenery, and is surrounded by 7 temples – Yongfu Si, Lingyin Si, Faxi Si, to name a few. One cannot help but be effected by its calming ambience upon entering the site, and all worldly troubles, whatever they may be, are left at the gate.
The receptionist first served us a pot of Hangzhou’s famed Longjing Tea, picked from Amanfayun’s own tea plantation, before proceeding with the check-in process.
Understated elegance in every angle.
The uniforms are also in a color that blends in with the surroundings.
Each Aman Resort location has been carefully selected and designed, so that it blends in with the local culture and natural scenery. Jaya Pratomo Ibrahim, the designer of Amanfayun, took the time to visit nearby villages, tea plantations, and temples, before concluding that Fayun Village itself is a treasure, and that all he needed to do was to preserve its original beauty during the renovation process.
每一個安缦的選址和改造設計上都先經過考察研究，讓酒店和當地的人文精神與自然景觀融合。法雲安缦的設計師 Jaya Pratomo Ibrahim 走訪了杭州周邊村落、茶園和寺院後說：“這個村子已經很美了，所以我要做的，只是盡量保持它原來的樣子”，並在不破壞村落原始磚瓦結構的基礎上將老房子們做了修繕。
After renovation, Amanfayun is comprised of 42 rooms, suites and villas, each of them with a unique structure. I stayed in a village room of about 66 sqm, beautifully decorated in an understated elegant way – calligraphy on the wall, daybeds, and intentionally dim-lighting to recreate the ancient village vibe.
改造後的法雲安缦共有 42 棟獨立的院落，每棟建築的結構都獨一無二，每個房間也各有不相同。我這次入住的是大約 66 平米的村莊客舍 “福間”，房內走道和地板均爲石材鋪置，色調素雅、格局精簡； 房間沒有電子門卡，用的是竹節鑰匙圈和鑰匙。
The only initial problem I noticed about the room was that it was extremely hot – we had to turn off the air-conditioning and tone down the under-floor heating before the temperature dropped to a comfortable degree.
Maps of the resort and of the nearby temples.
Longjing Tea, and complimentary mini bar.
Ultra comfortable bed.
Each room comes with under-floor heating, iPod-compatible Bose sound systems, wifi, and a rather hidden TV (I doubt anyone’d have to urge to turn this on while they are here).
房間裏有地暖、與 ipod 相容的 Bose 音響系統、wi-fi，還有這個相當低調的電視，不過住在這裏應該完全不會有看電視的欲望吧。
The bathroom is also more than spacious, equipped with double basins, shower, toilet, stool, vanity mirror, and all the basic toiletries one would need. There are, however, a few problems that I noticed: the faucet placement is very close to the edge of the wash basin, and water spills out quite easily; there is only one stool for two guests, a bit of an inconvenience; the under-floor heating in the toilet is very hot (almost scorches the feet) despite temperature adjustment.
Shampoo, conditioner, and lotion are placed in porcelain jars instead of travel-sized packages, partly to make guests feel more at home, and partly to decrease packaging for environmental reasons. I couldn’t help but wonder, however, about what they do with the leftover toiletries after guests left? They can’t just dump those because that’d be a huge waste, but they can’t keep them for the next guests either…right?
There are some restrictions with the old piping system at Amanfayun as it’s renovated from an old village, so hot showers are available for only 30 minutes at a time (don’t forget to wait for 10-15 minutes afterwards for water to boil again). There’s no bath in the rooms, but complimentary bath is available by reservation at the Spa center.
入住時工作人員提醒說由于法雲古村在管道上有局限，所以熱水是用電熱水器供應，一次只能用 30 分鍾，兩個人中間最好隔10－15分鍾。浴室裏沒有浴缸，不過可以到 Spa 館預約免費木桶浴（非常推薦）。
After check-in, we headed to Steam House for lunch. There are five F&B options at Amanfayun scattered around Fayun Pathway, the main walkway running the full extent of the property. This pathway is open to the public, and we saw tourists and monks pass through it during the day to visit the Buddhist temples in the area. From I could tell, there are hotel staff on service along the pathway, so privacy and security seemed to not be an issue.
在房間安頓好之後已過中午，決定去酒店的 “蒸菜館” 吃個午飯。由于安缦法雲位于景區裏，貫穿酒店的青石小徑並未封閉，偶而會碰到順道而行的遊人以及佛學院學生，所有餐廳和茶館也都是開放給非房客的。通往前台和房間的路口有酒店工作人員手拿對講機守候，一般來說隱私不是太大的問題。
From our room, it was a short five-minute walk to the Steam House.
It was almost 2pm when we arrived. The restaurant was quiet with only 2~3 tables of guests, and beautiful afternoon light streaming in from the windows.
Steamed Qiantang River sea bass with soy sauce.
Steamed Yunnan mushroom soup.
Chopped stewed pork stuffed in buns.
Hangzhou-style noodle soup with sliced pork and preserved vegetable.
Red dates cake with lotus paste, and double-boiled sweet papaya with white fungus.
Other than the rather forgettable Hangzhou-style noodles, I enjoyed every dish we ordered. The ingredients are mostly local, seasoned minimally to let their natural flavor shine. I especially enjoyed the steamed sea bass and the stewed pork buns, as well as the date cake with lotus paste, served warm and fluffy. A very pleasant meal.
Though I originally planned to spend the afternoon in Hangzhou city, Amanfayun was so welcoming that I did not have any desire to leave once I got settled. After resting a bit in the room, we took an easy stroll to Yongfu Si right next door; There were almost no other visitors as it was almost closing time, leaving us to enjoy the temple grounds in such precious silence.
After the stroll, a bath in the Spa house.
回到酒店裏，預約了 Spa 館的木桶泡澡。
There are three suites for bathing, available for hotel guests with no extra charge (though reservation is recommended). Each suite has its own bath, shower, toilet, changing area,resting area, etc.
A cup of butterfly pea-infused tea after the bath to stay hydrated. Amanfayun also has an outdoor swimming pool, gym, yoga room, and spa services if you so desire.
The next day, we woke up at 4am to observe morning chanting at Faxi Si. In the dark and in the rain, we were picked up by the resort car and sent to temple, and though I imagined something totally zen (a few monks chanting in an otherwise silent hall), the whole temple was in fact swarming with people as it happened to be the birthday of Bodhisattva, so the whole temple was swarming with people. An interesting experience for sure, thanks for the arrangement of the resort.
The sky was just lighting up as we retreated back to Amanfayun, which was extra beautiful in the rain and mist.
We then went back to Steam House for breakfast. Though a western restaurant is also available on site, for me it seemed only fitting to have a traditional Chinese breakfast at Amanfayun…
Hangzhou Traditional Set: beef soup with bean vermicelli, deep-fried chinese dough fritter, Qiantang steamed pork buns, “Dingsheng” cake.
Fayun Spring Healthy Set: medlar millet congee, black soy milk, bamboo shoots & wild vegetable buns, steamed whole grains (sweet potato, edamame, yam, corn, arrowheads), deep-fried chinese dough fritter.
Freshly made sugar-free soy milk.
Here’s a sneak peek of the western restaurant, which serves breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea, dinner, and turns into a bar in the evening.
Cute strawberry family outside the restaurant.
Quite a lot of people recommended the tea house, though I didn’t have a chance to try it this time. Again, all F&B outlets at Amanfayun are open to hotel and non-hotel guests alike, so feel free to come by even if you are not staying at the resort.
不少人都推薦了我去 “和茶館” 喝茶，不過這次只是路過。再提醒一下，法雲安缦裏面的餐廳和茶館都是對外開放的，不一定要是房客才可以來哦。
Right before leaving Amanfayun, I made my way to Fayun Place, a two-storey building composed of internal courtyards, tea house, cigar room, and reading room.
Chinese cultural classes are available for hotel guests everyday.
An interesting thing I noticed was that the entire resort (including the reception, guest rooms, spa house, and even the first floor of Fayun Place) plays the same traditional Chinese instrumental music, but on the second floor of Fayun Place it changes into jazz…a pleasant surprise.
I was planning to sit for just a few moments before departing, but I started chatting with a hotel staff and her friend, who happened to be a monk visiting from Guangzhou. Before I knew it, almost two hours had passed! A most pleasant surprise, and an inspiring encounter.
If I didn’t have other appointments to attend to before heading back to Shanghai, I would’ve loved to linger for a bit longer at Amanfayun. The time spent here had been so pleasant, perhaps exactly because Aman fits right in with its surroundings, presenting everything in their natural beauty rather than seeking conspicuous luxury. Do come experience it for yourself…
電話：571 8732 9999
價位：每晚 5865 人民幣起