Sugared & Spiced http://www.sugarednspiced.com pâtissière in paris, now shanghai Fri, 28 Apr 2017 01:47:32 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=4.4.9 [Shanghai 上海] Garden Terrace at PuLi Hotel 璞麗酒店花園露台 http://www.sugarednspiced.com/shanghai-garden-terrace-at-puli-hotel/ http://www.sugarednspiced.com/shanghai-garden-terrace-at-puli-hotel/#respond Fri, 28 Apr 2017 01:37:47 +0000 http://www.sugarednspiced.com/?p=35662 Garden Terrace at PuLi Hotel

Add: 1 Changde Road
Tel: 2216 6996
Hours: 7am-1am (afernoon tea 2:30pm-5:30pm)
Price: tea set 300 RMB/person + 10% service charge & 6% tax
Visited: Apr 2017

Please note that this was an arranged tasting.

Spring in Shanghai is ever so pleasant yet short-lived, so when it is upon us, it’s pretty much obligatory to spend as much time outdoor as possible. A most ideal patio choice would be Garden Terrace at the PuLi Hotel, which, incidentally, has always been one of my favorite hotels in town. The property is conveniently located at the heart of Jing’an District, yet somehow manages to shield out all the hustle and bustle, imbuing a sense of zen to all that enters its grounds. I think you might like it too.

最近春暖花開,一心念著要找個露台享受一下上海(肯定非常短暫)的完美天氣。首先想到的,就是璞麗酒店的露天花園。璞麗是我在上海最喜歡的酒店之一,地點位于非常便利的靜安區中心地帶,但一切吵雜似乎都被隔離在竹簾之外,一步入大堂就能感受到令人平靜的禅意。我想,你應該也會喜歡。

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The lush and quiet Garden Terrace, just a wall apart from Jing’an Park, is blessed with cool breeze, sunshine, and comfortably furnished with sofa and daybeds…lay down, sip on a cup of tea or a glass of champagne, and let all worries melt away.

這裏的露天花園與靜安公園僅僅一牆之隔,享受得到茂盛的綠蔭,而且非常隱秘安靜。有水池、有微風、有陽光、有沙發、有躺椅…無比惬意。

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I mean, how Summery does this look? And Spring is not even over yet (not complaining).

天氣漸暖,酒店特地准備了新鮮水果的調味氣泡水,一看上去似乎都夏天了(咦?春天都還沒過呢。)

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If you are here for afternoon tea, this is what it entails, starting from the savouries: liver parfait choux with cherry mustard, crab doughnut, brioche with salmon rillette, smoked veal tongue pretzel with gribiche sauce, truffle quiche.

璞麗酒店的下午茶內容是這樣的,從下層的鹹點開始:鵝肝泡芙佐櫻桃芥末、蟹肉圈餅、 三文魚配黃油小面包、 煙熏牛舌堿水面包配格裏比什醬、松露蛋餅。

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And the sweets: lemon polenta cake, passion fruit curd meringue tart, hazelnut macaron, chocolate cupcake, opera cake, white chocolate cigar pistachio, cannelé.

甜點:檸檬玉米蛋糕、百香果蛋白塔、榛果馬卡龍、巧克力紙杯蛋糕、咖啡歌劇院蛋糕、白巧克力卷配開心果、可麗露。

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Of course, fresh scones with clotted cream and preserves.

另外,下午茶當然少不了司康配果醬和香草奶油。

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Accompanied by a bottle of Nicolas Feuillate demi-sec champagne courtesy of the chef. On the regular afternoon tea menu, you can choose from Veuve Cliquot champagne or Gustave Lorentz sparkling wine if in the mood for bubbles.

主廚特別贈送了一瓶 Nicolas Feuillate 半干型香槟做爲下午茶的點綴,常規菜單上則可以選擇 Veuve Cliquot 香槟或者 Gustave Lorentz 起泡酒。

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Seize the day and come enjoy this gorgeous weather…Looky look, even the cats are here.

趁最近上海天氣完美,你要不要也來這裏悠閑一下呢?要知道春天的好天氣是多麽短暫,趕緊把握機會享受吧。你看,連貓咪都來了…

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注:本次為邀請試吃。

璞麗酒店 露天花園

地址:常德路1號
電話:2216 6996
營業時間:7am-1am(下午茶供應時間 2:30pm-5:30pm)
價位:下午茶 300 RMB/人 + 10% 服務費(另加收 6% 增值稅)
造訪:2017年4月

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[Shanghai 上海] Brute Cake Cafe http://www.sugarednspiced.com/shanghai-brute-cake-cafe/ http://www.sugarednspiced.com/shanghai-brute-cake-cafe/#respond Thu, 27 Apr 2017 00:22:53 +0000 http://www.sugarednspiced.com/?p=35634 Brut Cake Cafe

Add: 698 Yuyuan Road
Tel: 173 2100 8129
Hours: [Mon-Fri] 7am-9pm [Weekend] 10am-8pm
Price: 80~100 RMB/person
Visited: Apr 2017

My first time encountering Taiwanese designer Nicole Teng’s works was about 7 years ago in Plum Gallery, and right there and then I was charmed by her cute hand-drawn faces. Upon returning from Paris in 2015, I was pleased to discover that Nicole has opened a showroom called Brut Cake on Anfu Lu, though I was also slightly disappointed that there’s no actual cake in the shop…then, just earlier this year, Brut Cake Cafe opened, and yes they do sell cakes!

第一次見到台灣設計師 Nicole Teng 的手繪臉孔,應該是七年前的事情了吧。當時靜安別墅裏有個叫做 Plum Gallery 的空間,我到訪時正好展著 Nicole 的一些作品,各式各樣的手繪臉孔我一下就喜歡上了。幾年後從巴黎回來,發現她在安福路上開了家以自己品牌 Brut Cake 爲名的雜貨店,正想著爲什麽店名有 “cake” 而店裏卻沒有蛋糕的時候,真的有賣蛋糕的 Brut Cake Cafe 就在今年開幕了。

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Located on Yuyuan Road, Brut Cake Cafe is designed in the same warm and soothing style as Brut Cake, with a sunny patio and wood-centric furniture. The most prominent feature, without a doubt, is the mug display on the wall showcasing 100 different hand-drawn faces, the ones that attracted me in the first place years ago.

位于愚園路的 Brut Cake Cafe 延續了 Brut Cake 返璞歸真的設計理念,有陽光滿分的露台和木質色系爲主的家具,一切都讓人感覺溫暖舒服…不過最引人注目的,還是牆上擺設著的一百只不同手繪臉孔的馬克杯 - 永澤洋蔥頭、花輪劉海、卷毛小胡子…你看上了,哪一個?

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The chairs, the stools, and the aprons worn by the cafe staff are all Nicole’s designs as well.

店裏的椅子凳子以及店員穿的圍裙也是 Nicole 設計的古布系列作品。

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Helming the kitchen at Brut Cake Cafe is Guangzhou-born, L.A.-raised Jun, who is far from being a typical chef. He has a doctoral degree in chiropractic, and even dabbled a bit in hedge fund before deciding on a career in food. He met his wife Priscilla in Hong Kong a few years ago, and together the two of them started a cooking blog to share their passion for food. After winning Asian Food Network’s “Amazing Food Challenge”, they started hosting private dinners, and subsequently moved to Shanghai, somehow meeting Nicole and starting the cafe together.

在 Brut Cake Cafe 掌廚的是廣州出生、洛杉矶長大的 Jun。相當低調的他其實有個脊骨神經醫學的博士學位,也做過 hedge fund 經理人,後來才轉行成了廚師。幾年前他在香港認識了現在的太太 Priscilla,兩人從寫美食博客開始分享自己對食物的熱愛,後來參加 Asian Food Network 的 “Amazing Food Challenge” 贏得冠軍後,開始在香港經營私廚。在各種因緣際會下,他們夫婦兩人來到了上海,和 Nicole 一起開了 Brut Cake Cafe。

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Jun’s cuisine is like L.A. where he grew up  – a mix of different cultures. His main principle is cooking food that he himself would eat, focusing on not just the flavors but health factors as well. For example, he insists on making his own tomato sauce because there’s too much corn syrup and preservatives in commercial ketchup . Let’s see what his brunch menu looks like:

Jun 的料理像洛杉矶的多元文化,融合了西式和東方元素。 他堅持做 “自己會吃的” 料理,連番茄醬也自制,就是因爲商業用的番茄醬裏有太多的玉米糖漿和防腐劑。先來看看他的早午餐內容:

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Among the three dishes I tried that day, my favorite was definitely “Sweet & Savory” (78 RMB): six-spiced fried chicken topping a bed of crispy waffle, sprinkled with sweet walnuts, pickled radish, then drizzled with organic jujube honey. Flavors and textures both on point.

當天嚐到的三道菜色中,我最喜歡 “炸雞華夫餅” Sweet & Savory(78元)。用六種香料調味的炸雞外皮酥脆、內裏鮮嫩多汁,搭配輕盈的華夫餅以及點綴的核桃、腌漬蘿蔔、以及有機紅棗花蜜,大滿足。

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The second was “Sweet Sunrise” (55 RMB), which is waffles served with mascarpone chantilly, organic jujube honey, seasonal fruit jam, and almonds, but Priscilla let us try the soon-to-be-launched pancake version. Not bad, thoughI personally would’ve preferred a thicker, flufflier pancake, with a lot more fruits on top…

第二道是甜蜜華夫 Sweet Sunrise(55元),不過 Priscilla 讓我們嘗了還未上菜單的 pancakes 版本,搭配 mascarpone 香缇奶油、有機紅棗花蜜、和時令水果。添加了杏仁粉的松餅香味不錯,不過口感上我個人比較喜歡更有厚度、蓬松柔軟的松餅(而且希望上面多水果可以多一點…)

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There was also the “Green Tartine” (62 RMB): guacamole, organic Japanese onsen egg, radicchio, sourdough bread, baby potatoes, salad, mixed fresh fruit.  A healthy and light plate with an ever-so-alluring onsen egg, but there definitely needs to be more avocado on this toast…the thin layer just doesn’t satisfy.

也嚐了 “牛油果開邊三明治” Green Tartine(62元):天然發酵面包上、牛油果醬、日本有機溫泉蛋、小土豆、沙拉、新鮮水果。溫泉蛋很誘人,不過牛油果實在太少啦,這麽薄薄一層無法令人滿足。跟主廚提了意見,不知下次來能不能嘗到新版本呢?

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Coffee here is quite nice, and even more charming when served in Nicole’s mugs. Most coffee drinks are 50% off with the order of brunch or breakfast items, which is a nice deal.

咖啡倒是挺不錯的,而且更加分的是能用到手繪馬克杯…握在手上心都融了。話說,點早午餐以及午餐都可以享有飲料 50% off 的優惠,這點非常令人開心。

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Drawings on the bottom of the plates…they melt my heart.

盤子和碗底也都有可愛的圖案…噢~

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I came for lunch on another day visit to try Jun’s “Sour Bird” (65 RMB), the dish that won him the Amazing Food Challenge competition: Filipino chicken adobo, crispy skin, carrot, roasted garlic aioli, served on grains. The sour bird is very sour indeed, and I personally loved the intensity of it…makes me mouth water just thinking about it. Do try if you also love an acidic flavor profile.

另一天來試午飯,點了 Jun 的成名作 - “菲式醬醋雞” Sour Bird(65元)。這道酸味十足的料理以菲律賓阿多博鹵雞(chicken adobo)爲主角,配上紅蘿蔔和烤大蒜蛋黃醬,堆在健康的多谷米飯上,是道非常入味非常酸爽的料理,我喜歡。

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Jun also does a series of “manwiches”, which substitutes the typical burger bun with homemade mantou (Chinese steamed buns). My friend ordered the “Red Bull” (72 RMB), which is mantou sandwiching Australian beef patty, shredded duck thigh, tomato jam, and cheese. It was already cold by the time I got to it, so I don’t want to comment too much on it…do know that mantou has more of a chew than burger buns, so some people might find the texture a bit hard.

Brut Cake Cafe 還有一系列的 “饅堡”,使用自制饅頭取代漢堡面包。朋友點了 “手撕鴨肉牛肉饅堡” Red Bull(72元),饅頭裏夾了澳洲牛肉漢堡排、手撕鴨腿肉、自制番茄醬、芝士,可惜我嚐的時候已經涼了…只記得饅頭的口感比起一般漢堡面包來說更有嚼勁,有些人可能會覺得有些硬。

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I also sampled a honey cake (25 RMB) with beetroot hot chocolate (40 RMB). The honey cake (made with organic jujube honey) isn’t too distinct, but after a few bites it kind of grew on me. Beetroot hot chocolate is a creative and healthy alternative to the typical hot chocolate, though the beetroot flavor is indeed quite strong, so order this only if you appreciate that (or just want a photo of this beautiful color).

午飯後試了招牌蜂蜜蛋糕(25元)以及甜菜根熱巧克力(40元)。蜂蜜蛋糕的甜味完全來自有機紅棗蜜,口味上沒有非常特別,不過多吃兩口覺得平平淡淡也挺好的。熱巧克力是個健康的創意,用甜菜根的天然甜味來取代額外的砂糖,不過甜菜根的味道滿重的,不喜歡的慎點。

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The food at Brut Cake Cafe is some hits and some misses for me, but I do appreciate the chef’s efforts and look forward to more delicious things he will put forth in the future. Come try brunch next week to see how you like it, or simply sit out on the patio on a nice day to enjoy the sun…pets welcome, too!

Brut Cake Cafe,好個溫暖可愛的地方。推薦炸雞華夫餅以及菲式醬醋雞,其他料理算然不是我的最愛,不過感受得到主廚的用心,令人期待以後會推出更多的健康美味。天氣好時坐在窗邊或露台,喝杯咖啡放松心情吧!這裏還有寵物專區,歡迎帶狗狗來哦。

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Brut Cake Cafe

地址:愚園路698號
電話:17321008129
營業時間:周一至五 7am-9pm 周末 10am-8pm(全天早午餐)
價位:80 – 100元
造訪:2017年4月

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[Hangzhou 杭州] Random http://www.sugarednspiced.com/hangzhou-random/ http://www.sugarednspiced.com/hangzhou-random/#respond Thu, 06 Apr 2017 11:16:54 +0000 http://www.sugarednspiced.com/?p=35600 Random

Add: D6, #7 Fenghuang Shanjiao Road, Hangzhou
Tel: 0571-8711 8620
Hours: Tue-Sun 10am-6pm (closed on Mon)
Price: ~100 RMB/person
Visited: Mar 2017

My last stop on this trip to Hangzhou was Random, a cafe / select shop located in an old neighborhood not too far from the city center. Its stylish shop front is quite a contrast from the ruggedness surrounding it, making it almost pop out from the background. Though it took a while to find, it was certainly worth the effort…

從東信和創園離開後直奔這次杭州行的最後一個目的地 - Random。穿過鳳凰城山腳下的老社區,拉著行李有點迷路有點狼狽,心裏碎碎念著幹嘛要這麽折騰,不過抵達這三層樓的漂亮小房子時立刻覺得 “呼,來了真好”。大片玻璃的摩登感在老社區裏顯得有點穿越,通透設計讓室內輕盈明亮。這裏藏地有些深,不是個會在無意中經過的地方,客人應該都是慕名而來的吧?

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I first heard about Random at last year’s Design Shanghai, when Random’s founders Norah and Oliver invited me to their pop-up cafe at the exhibition. Though it was just a temporary thing, the cafe made quite an impression, and I’ve been meaning to go visit their actual shop in Hangzhou ever since then.

認識 Random 的 Norah 和 Oliver 是在 2016 年的設計上海,他們當時在展場裏開了個咖啡館,雖然只是爲期四天的快閃店,不過做得相當用心,去過之後一直想著哪天要到他們杭州本店瞧瞧。

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Before Random, Norah was working in finance and Oliver was working at a state-owned enterprise, and the two of them decided to quit together to open up a shop of their dreams. In 2015, they got married, and Random was born.

後來才聽說他們兩個其實是小學同學,失聯很久後才又碰上,戀愛,結婚。當時 Norah 念的是商科,Oliver 則在國企工作,兩人決定同時辭職,一起開家自己理想中的店。于是在 2015 年,他們結婚的同一年,Random 誕生了。

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Random is a three-story building separated into three different spaces. The first floor is a cafe serving coffee, desserts, and light refreshments. The interior is quite nice, though I have no photos to show here because there were too many guests during the time of my visit. Do check out the lovely sunroom with huge cacti in the back when you go.

Random 的理念是 “隨時,隨食”,雖然名字和風格看似輕松,店裏卻處處看得出兩人對各種小細節的琢磨。房子的一樓是咖啡館,也提供甜點和輕食。我到訪的時候客人較多不方便拍照,不過對最後面那個放了高大仙人掌陽光房印象特別深刻,如果你也去的話,不妨進去坐坐(抱歉沒有圖片哈)。

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The second floor is a select shop displaying a meticulously curated range of products, including brands such as muuto from Denmark, tyklo from Finland, and apotheke fragrance from Japan. The third floor is the Random office, as well as a space that’s open for special events.

二樓是設計品買手店,白色方格鋼架上展示著 Norah 從世界各地精心挑選來的設計品,比如丹麥的 muuto(家具簡潔實用)、芬蘭的 tyklo (胡椒罐很可愛)、日本的 apotheke fragrance(伯爵茶+葡萄柚香氛蠟燭太誘人),等等。三樓則是 Random 的辦公室,也有一個偶而對外開放的活動空間。

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My personal favorite part of the shop design is perhaps this floor-to-ceiling revolving door, and the sunroom right behind it.

我個人最愛的設計,應該是這一大片旋轉玻璃門,以及它後面的陽光房。

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As the first floor was completely packed, we were seated on the second floor for our afternoon tea, which was lovely despite it being a gloomy day (we can all imagine how beautiful it must look on a sunny day).

由于一樓客滿了,我們很幸運地坐在二樓享用下午茶。可以想象天氣暖出太陽時,這裏的光線會是多麽美好。

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The hot kitchen at Random had already closed by the time we arrived, but the staff was nice enough to whip together something for us. First came this “crazy cheese” eggs benedict, with mozzarella, parmesan, blue cheese, and iberico ham, paired with a refreshing salad tossed together with organic greens from Chongming Island.

Random 的廚房其實過四點就關了,不過工作人員還是很貼心地爲還沒吃午飯的我們做了幾道料理,比如有新鮮馬蘇裏拉、帕瑪森、藍紋芝士、以及伊比利亞黑毛豬火腿的 “瘋狂芝士班尼迪克蛋”,搭配清爽美味的沙拉(用的是來自崇明島的有機蔬菜)。

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I also tried the Thai-style omelet with lemon grass-flavored chicken, a pleasant variation from the typical omelet. This usually comes in a set with organic salad, homemade jam, yogurt, dried fruits etc., but we got there a little bit too late and these were no longer available.

也嚐了泰式雞肉歐姆蛋。第一次吃到泰式雞肉的歐姆蛋,有點驚豔,很喜歡蛋包裏檸檬草的香味。順帶一提,Random 的早午餐套餐一般會搭配秋日有機沙拉、雜糧小食、自制果醬、果乾、酸奶等,不過由于我們到的比較晚,這些已經沒有了。

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Then there were the desserts, starting with a very light “Naked Cake” (42 RMB): chiffon cake sandwiching whipped cream, osmanthus-flavored pear, and blackcurrant jelly. I enjoyed this one for the light and fluffy chiffon cake made with free-range Japanese eggs (hence the extra orange color), but wished the osmanthus flavor was more pronounced.

隨後,甜點。從比較輕盈的開始,首先嚐了個由戚風蛋糕、桂花雪梨、黑加侖凍組成的 “桂花雪梨裸蛋糕”(42元)。戚風蛋糕非常柔軟,而且由于用的是日本蘭皇雞蛋,所以蛋糕的顔色偏橘黃。鮮奶油美味,黑加侖凍的酸味也很棒,不過可惜桂花的味道不是很明顯,小失望。

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“Sri Lanka Garden” (62 RMB), earl grey white chocolate mousse with almond biscuit and hazelnut ball. The earl grey flavor is alluring, though the overall mix was really quite sweet, I don’t think I’d be able to finish a whole one on my own. On a related note, the sweetness level of each dessert is indicated on the menu, a considerate touch.

第二個是造型非常可愛的 “斯裏蘭卡花園雪糕”(62元),由伯爵白巧克力慕斯、杏仁餅、榛子球。跟上一款蛋糕比起來較甜,搭配茶或咖啡剛剛好(Random 的菜單上很貼心地標注了每個甜點的甜度,方便客人選擇)。

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Lastly, “raspberry chocolate mousse with ginger cake” (50 RMB). I quite like the combination of chocolate with raspberry, but the ginger chunks in the pound cake part was too overwhelming for me. Norah explained that they used to use ginger candy from Japan, which is a lot mellower than ginger chunks, but apparently those are out of stock for the moment.

最後是 “姜味覆盆子巧克力慕斯”(50元),是巧克力慕斯、覆盆子果醬、和生姜磅蛋糕的搭配。巧克力+覆盆子是我很喜歡的組合,不過磅蛋糕裏的生薑味道對我來說太衝了,聽 Norah 說以前用的日本姜糖買不到了,才換成現在的設計(想嚐嚐之前的版本呀)。

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Random also offers an interesting selection of coffee beans from all over the world, such as Tim Wendelboe from Oslo, Norway, Maruyama from Karuizawa, Japan, Heart from Portland, U.S.A., etc. I tried Five Elephant of Berlin on the day of my visit, which the barista presented in both hot and iced forms  (52 RMB) for me.

Random 有從世界各地收集而來的咖啡豆,比如挪威奧斯陸的 Tim Wendelboe、日本輕井澤的丸山、美國波特蘭的 Heart,可在吧台咨詢挑選。我到訪的當天有柏林的 Five Elephant,咖啡師用這個豆子爲我做了精典手沖咖啡(52 元),除了熱飲之外也可以倒在冰上,品嚐風味跟著溫度的變化。

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Random’s very own coffee booklet.

自制的咖啡小冊子,陪你一起喝咖啡。

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Random, but not random. Come here for some sun, glorious coffee, delicious desserts, and stylish knickknacks to take home with. A place worth lingering.

Random, but not random。這裏有柔和的陽光,有香氣四溢的咖啡,有精致可愛的甜點,有可以融入日常生活的美好小物…如此理想的空間,下次去杭州,還要再訪。

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Random

地址:杭州市鳳凰山腳路7號鳳凰禦元D6
電話:0571-8711 8620
營業時間:周二-日10am-6pm(週一休)
價位:人均 100 元
造訪:2017年3月

 

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[Hangzhou 杭州] The 52 Space http://www.sugarednspiced.com/hangzhou-the-52-space/ http://www.sugarednspiced.com/hangzhou-the-52-space/#respond Wed, 05 Apr 2017 08:38:03 +0000 http://www.sugarednspiced.com/?p=35584 The 52 Space

Add: #52 Dongxin Creative Park, Liuhe Road, Hangzhou
Tel: N/A
Hours: 10am-6pm
Visited: Mar 2017

My last stop at Dongxin Creative Park is The 52 Space, a recently-opened gallery / cafe / photography studio / fashion boutique / barbershop. It’s called 52 because it occupies the #52 building in the creative park (why yes, very straight-forward), and is a collaboration between a few photographers and designers. The main space is a gallery and cafe acorned with a SMEG fridge, a vintage coffee grinder, and a motorbike on the wall.

在東信和創園的最後一站,來到新開幕的 The 52 Space,一家集展覽館、咖啡廳、照相館、服裝店、理發店爲一體的空間。叫做 52,是因爲它位于東信和創園第 52 棟(嗯,很直接)。幾位攝影師和設計師跨界合作,將大廳變成了咖啡廳和展覽館,不定期舉辦藝術作品展覽,也提供手沖咖啡。吧台裏有可愛的 SMEG 冰箱以及古董磨豆機,牆上挂著一台機車。

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Some independent magazines, and a selection of interesting books.

獨立雜志,以及一些很小衆的書籍。

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There are not that many seats despite all that space, and it doesn’t sound like the owners plan to add more tables either.

位置不多,而且老板們似乎也沒有想要再增加,盡管地方空曠。

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The next door space is composed of a fashion select shop, a barbershop that opens only on weekends, and a vintage-style photography studio that’s open to appointments for black-and-white photo shoots.

隔壁房間裏則集合了服飾買手店和 Overcomer 工裝品牌工作室、周末才營業的理發店、還有叫 “留下” 的複古照相館,不僅收藏了很多老式膠片相機,也提供黑白老照片拍攝服務。要不要,預約體驗一下呢?

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If you happen to be in the creative park, do drop by.

來東信和創園的話,不妨來晃晃。

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The 52 Space

地址:杭州市留和路139號東信和創園52幢
電話:N/A
微信:N/A
營業時間:10am-6pm
造訪:2017年3月

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[Hangzhou 杭州] Yuan Bai 元白 http://www.sugarednspiced.com/hangzhou-yuan-bai/ http://www.sugarednspiced.com/hangzhou-yuan-bai/#respond Wed, 05 Apr 2017 07:58:46 +0000 http://www.sugarednspiced.com/?p=35571 Yuan Bai

Add: #31 Dongxin Creative Park, 139 Liuhe Road, Hangzhou
Tel: 0571 8997 8779
Hours: 11am-8pm (closed on Mon)
Visited: Mar 2017

#31 at Dongxin Creative Park is Yuan Bai, a show room for handmade ceramics, glassware, metalworks etc., by artists from China and abroad (mostly Japan). It’s beautiful space worth spending some time in, and if you are really into this stuff, Yuan Bai also opened a second showroom near the West Lake (#28 Jiangjun Lu, Hangzhou) that’s more easily accessible / closer to the city center. Happy browsing.

位于東信和創園 31 幢的元白是個手工藝品展廳,主旨是 “通過推廣器物的使用,將手藝人和設計師的心意傳達給使用者”。這裏有來自國內外的手工名家,傳統工藝品牌,設計師作品,種類涵蓋陶瓷、金工、木器、竹器、玻璃、織物等。燈光和陳列規劃都做得非常用心,是個值得慢慢品味的空間。順帶一提,元白剛開幕不久的西湖店看起來也美翻了,離市區也比較近,在杭州的可以去看看(地址:杭州市上城區將軍路28號)。

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元白

地址:杭州市留和路139號東信和創園31幢
電話:0571 8997 8779
微信:yuanbai_hz
營業時間:11am-8pm(周一休)
造訪:2017年3月

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[Hangzhou 杭州] Fnji Furniture 梵几 http://www.sugarednspiced.com/hangzhou-fnji-furniture/ http://www.sugarednspiced.com/hangzhou-fnji-furniture/#respond Wed, 05 Apr 2017 07:26:45 +0000 http://www.sugarednspiced.com/?p=35556 Fnji Furniture

Add: #15 Dongxin Creative Park, 139 Liuhe Road, Hangzhou
Tel: 0571-8896 3099
Wechat: fnjiwx
Hours: 10am-6pm (closed on Mon)
Visited: Mar 2017

When Fnji first opened their living room in Dongxin Creative Park back in 2015, it was pretty much the only thing there. For a furniture brand to choose such a remote location, and to name their space a “living room” instead of a “show room”, you know it’s got quite a character. Last year, I fell in love with their beautiful shop in Beijing, so I made it a point to visit their Hangzhou location on this trip.

聽說 2015 年梵几在東信和創園開幕時,這裏就只有它一家店。會選擇如此偏遠的地方,又將展廳稱爲 “客廳”,這顯然是個很有自己個性的品牌。其實第一次接觸梵几是在北京, 當時就喜歡上了他們含蓄溫潤的風格。雖然杭州店不像北京店有甜點和咖啡(殘念),不過空間和家具都美,值得一訪。

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Unlike its Beijing counterpart, the Fnji living room in Hangzhou doesn’t serve coffee and desserts (sad face), but the furniture and space are both beautiful. The pieces are all handmade from wood, make use of the Chinese mortise and tenon joint structure, with designs that bridge between modern and traditional aesthetics.

梵几家具采用的多是來自北美的白蠟、黑胡桃木,以及國內的核桃木;每件産品從設計到成品都需要 50 天左右的制作周期,經由工匠手工打磨,慢工出細活。朋友最近剛買了一把梵几的折凳,雖然價格頗貴,不過他說摸上去就能感受到上等木頭的質感和精細的工藝,非常值得。

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It actually says “furniture, tea, cafe” at the door, but the cafe part is no longer open to public. Why? “Well, there are many coffee shops in the Creative Park now, and we are not nearly as professional as they are”, said the store manager humbly as he brewed me a cup of tea. A warm little place.

玻璃門上寫著 “furniture, tea, cafe”,不過咖啡吧的部份似乎已經不對外開放了。爲什麽呢?“園區裏開了不少咖啡店,我們的飲品又做得不專業”,店員謙虛地說,順手還是幫我泡了杯茶…哎呀,好個溫暖舒服的地方。

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梵几

地址:杭州市留和路139號東信和創園15幢
電話:0571-8896 3099
微信:fnjiwx
營業時間:10am-6pm (周一休)
造訪:2017年3月

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[Hangzhou 杭州] 23Lab Cafe http://www.sugarednspiced.com/hangzhou-23lab-cafe/ http://www.sugarednspiced.com/hangzhou-23lab-cafe/#respond Mon, 03 Apr 2017 01:32:53 +0000 http://www.sugarednspiced.com/?p=35536 The 23 Lab

Add: #20, Dongxin Creative Park, 139 Liuhe Road, Hangzhou
Tel: 0571-8738 2230
WeChat: find23lab
Hours: 10:30am~6:30pm
Visited: Mar 2017

I first found out about 23Lab Cafe on Weibo, and it was love at first sight. I made it a point to visit this lush, green space on my recent trip to Hangzhou, and was delighted to discover that they not only sell plants, but also provide coffee and some simple pastries. For the afternoon, I went with a cup of Guatemala pour over and a piece of banana black tea chiffon cake, lovely and lovely.

一開始在微博上看到 23Lab 時簡直是一見鍾情,心裏默默記著下次到杭州時必須拜訪這綠油油的地方。23Lab 是由兩個熱愛植物的女孩子所打造的空間,郁郁蔥蔥地非常舒服,處處留流出她們的好品味;可惜不住在杭州,否則肯定要搬兩盆植物回家。這裏也有咖啡和甜點,嘗了一杯有焦糖和巧克力氣息的危地馬拉手沖,搭配香蕉紅茶戚風蛋糕,溫柔美好的午後。

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The space is started by two girls who are passionate about plants. If you can read Chinese, here’s a little short descriptions from them…

23Lab 自己的簡介,是這樣的:

“一切因植物而起,初心是想和更多的植物相處,了解它們的習性和喜怒哀樂,和植物一起自然生長。進而開發水泥盆器,外形質樸,透氣透水,利于植物生長,也讓植物回歸到更原始的狀態。也會尋找制作各種園藝工具,如園藝剪,鑷子,水壺,園藝鏟,花灑等,反複使用,對比,找到最適手好用的工具,推薦給更多的人。讓我們一起向著光,自然生長。”

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Other than plants and gardening tools, the girls can also provide consulting service on how to decorate your home or commercial space with greens. Wouldn’t it be lovely to work in a place as lush as this one? If you are in Hangzhou, do drop by to take a look.

店裏售賣植物以及和植物相關的工具,兩位女孩也爲商業空間做綠化規劃,有興趣的話可以直接和她們聯系。把自己所在的地方打扮地綠油油,每天心情都會明亮吧?在杭州的話,請來逛逛。

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The 23 Lab

地址:杭州市留和路139號東信和創園20棟
電話:0571-8738 2230
微信:find23lab
營業時間:10:30am~6:30pm
造訪於:2017年3月

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[Hangzhou 杭州] Amanfayun 法雲安縵 http://www.sugarednspiced.com/hangzhou-amanfayun/ Tue, 21 Mar 2017 10:18:03 +0000 http://www.sugarednspiced.com/?p=35440 Amanfayun

Add: 22 Fayun Lane, West Lake Street, West Lake Scenic Area, Hangzhou
Tel: 571 8732 9999
Website: www.aman.com
Price: from 5865 rmb/night
Visited: Mar 2017

As Spring descends upon us, a get-away to Hangzhou – a city known for its beautiful West Lake, fragrant Longjing tea, and historical temples (and just a 50-minute train ride from Shanghai!) – seems almost obligatory. While looking up accommodations for this mini trip, I had my eyes fixed on Amanfayun, an Aman Resort restored from a centuries-old village surrounded by tea plantations and bamboo groves – sounds surreal, no?

這次杭州兩日小旅行,住在法雲安缦。與其說是因爲想去杭州而住安缦,更准確地說應該是因爲安缦而選擇了杭州。之前曾住過北京的頤和安缦,對這個酒店集團稍有了解 - “Aman” 是梵語裏和平、庇護的意思,而安缦酒店的特征,就是對甯靜、和諧、私密的注重,選址多在文化和曆史結合的地方,如坐落于麗江古鎮的大研安缦,與頤和園一牆之隔的頤和安缦,還有我這次入住,改造于古村落法雲村的法雲安缦。

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Amanfayun lies hidden in a valley to the west of West Lake, a UNESCO World Heritage Site famed for its idyllic scenery, and is surrounded by 7 temples – Yongfu Si, Lingyin Si, Faxi Si, to name a few. One cannot help but be effected by its calming ambience upon entering the site, and all worldly troubles, whatever they may be, are left at the gate.

酒店位于西湖西側的山谷之中,距杭州市中心20分鍾車程,是個在永福寺、靈隱寺、法喜寺等七座寺院庇護下的空靈之地。延續西湖畔傳統村落布局與氣息,酒店由幽靜石徑及蔭郁庭院交織而成, 踏入的瞬間就能感受到安詳和靜谧。

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The receptionist first served us a pot of Hangzhou’s famed Longjing Tea, picked from Amanfayun’s own tea plantation, before proceeding with the check-in process.

入座後,工作人員先端上一壺自家種的龍井茶,再開始辦理入住手續。本來因爲從高鐵車站一路堵車到酒店而煩躁的心情,瞬間舒暢了。

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Understated elegance in every angle.

每一個角度都是低調含蓄的美。

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The uniforms are also in a color that blends in with the surroundings.

服務員的制服也用了能與村落色調融合的褐色。

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Each Aman Resort location has been carefully selected and designed, so that it blends in with the local culture and natural scenery. Jaya Pratomo Ibrahim, the designer of Amanfayun, took the time to visit nearby villages, tea plantations, and temples, before concluding that Fayun Village itself is a treasure, and that all he needed to do was to preserve its original beauty during the renovation process.

每一個安缦的選址和改造設計上都先經過考察研究,讓酒店和當地的人文精神與自然景觀融合。法雲安缦的設計師 Jaya Pratomo Ibrahim 走訪了杭州周邊村落、茶園和寺院後說:“這個村子已經很美了,所以我要做的,只是盡量保持它原來的樣子”,並在不破壞村落原始磚瓦結構的基礎上將老房子們做了修繕。

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After renovation, Amanfayun is comprised of 42 rooms, suites and villas, each of them with a unique structure. I stayed in a village room of about 66 sqm, beautifully decorated in an understated elegant way – calligraphy on the wall, daybeds, and intentionally dim-lighting to recreate the ancient village vibe.

改造後的法雲安缦共有 42 棟獨立的院落,每棟建築的結構都獨一無二,每個房間也各有不相同。我這次入住的是大約 66 平米的村莊客舍 “福間”,房內走道和地板均爲石材鋪置,色調素雅、格局精簡; 房間沒有電子門卡,用的是竹節鑰匙圈和鑰匙。

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The only initial problem I noticed about the room was that it was extremely hot – we had to turn off the air-conditioning and tone down the under-floor heating before the temperature dropped to a comfortable degree.

入門時迎接我們的是悅耳的古樂,以及和刻意昏暗,符合老村落感覺的燈光,心情又更放松了不少。不過一開始房間裏實在太熱了,直到我們關掉暖氣再調低地暖後才剛剛好。

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Maps of the resort and of the nearby temples.

酒店內以及周邊寺廟的地圖。

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Longjing Tea, and complimentary mini bar.

​酒店自家種的龍井茶,以及冰箱裏的各式飲料都無需另外收費。

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Ultra comfortable bed.

極舒服的床。

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Each room comes with under-floor heating, iPod-compatible Bose sound systems, wifi, and a rather hidden TV (I doubt anyone’d have to urge to turn this on while they are here).

房間裏有地暖、與 ipod 相容的 Bose 音響系統、wi-fi,還有這個相當低調的電視,不過住在這裏應該完全不會有看電視的欲望吧。

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The bathroom is also more than spacious, equipped with double basins, shower, toilet, stool, vanity mirror, and all the basic toiletries one would need. There are, however, a few problems that I noticed: the faucet placement is very close to the edge of the wash basin, and water spills out quite easily; there is only one stool for two guests, a bit of an inconvenience; the under-floor heating in the toilet is very hot (almost scorches the feet) despite temperature adjustment.

浴室有雙盆洗臉台、衛生間、淋浴室,並配有小凳子以及內置燈光的放大鏡,方便女客化妝。不過個人覺得有幾個小問題:水龍頭離洗臉台邊緣很近,用水時不小心的話容易潑出來;小凳子只有一個,如果兩位房客都要用的時候較不方便;衛生間的地暖調低幾個小時後都還有些燙腳(房間其他地方沒有這個問題)。

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Shampoo, conditioner, and lotion are placed in porcelain jars instead of travel-sized packages, partly to make guests feel more at home, and partly to decrease packaging for environmental reasons. I couldn’t help but wonder, however, about  what they do with the leftover toiletries after guests left? They can’t just dump those because that’d be a huge waste, but they can’t keep them for the next guests either…right?

洗臉台上的白瓷瓶裏有浴帽、化妝棉、棉簽盒、潤膚露等。安缦的盥洗産品都沒有 logo,用的也不是一次性瓶子,一方面爲了環保,一方面是因爲想營造家的感覺;雖然理解這個理念,不過心裏有個疑惑:沒用完的沐浴露等總不能浪費地扔掉,但若留給下一個客人,不會有衛生方面的問題嗎?

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There are some restrictions with the old piping system at Amanfayun as it’s renovated from an old village, so hot showers are available for only 30 minutes at a time (don’t forget to wait for 10-15 minutes afterwards for water to boil again). There’s no bath in the rooms, but complimentary bath is available by reservation at the Spa center.

入住時工作人員提醒說由于法雲古村在管道上有局限,所以熱水是用電熱水器供應,一次只能用 30 分鍾,兩個人中間最好隔10-15分鍾。浴室裏沒有浴缸,不過可以到 Spa 館預約免費木桶浴(非常推薦)。

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After check-in, we headed to Steam House for lunch. There are five F&B options at Amanfayun scattered around Fayun Pathway, the main walkway running the full extent of the property. This pathway is open to the public, and we saw tourists and monks pass through it during the day to visit the Buddhist temples in the area. From I could tell, there are hotel staff on service along the pathway, so privacy and security seemed to not be an issue.

在房間安頓好之後已過中午,決定去酒店的 “蒸菜館” 吃個午飯。由于安缦法雲位于景區裏,貫穿酒店的青石小徑並未封閉,偶而會碰到順道而行的遊人以及佛學院學生,所有餐廳和茶館也都是開放給非房客的。通往前台和房間的路口有酒店工作人員手拿對講機守候,一般來說隱私不是太大的問題。

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Tea trees.

路過法雲安缦的茶園。

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From our room, it was a short five-minute walk to the Steam House.

從房間步行五分鍾左右來到蒸菜館。

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It was almost 2pm when we arrived. The restaurant was quiet with only 2~3 tables of guests, and beautiful afternoon light streaming in from the windows.

抵達時已快兩點,餐廳裏非常安靜,只有兩三桌客人。

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Seasonal vegetables.

清炒時蔬。

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Steamed Qiantang River sea bass with soy sauce.

豉油蒸桂魚。

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Steamed Yunnan mushroom soup.

山野菌菇湯。

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Chopped stewed pork stuffed in buns.

肉夾馍。

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Hangzhou-style noodle soup with sliced pork and preserved vegetable.

片兒川。

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Red dates cake with lotus paste, and double-boiled sweet papaya with white fungus.

紅棗蓮蓉松糕和木瓜炖銀耳。

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Other than the rather forgettable Hangzhou-style noodles, I enjoyed every dish we ordered. The ingredients are mostly local, seasoned minimally to let their natural flavor shine. I especially enjoyed the steamed sea bass and the stewed pork buns, as well as the date cake with lotus paste, served warm and fluffy. A very pleasant meal.

我們點的所有菜裏面,除了片兒川那碗面我覺得實在太平淡之外,其他都非常好。用的大多都是當地的食材,蔬菜極嫩而且帶有自然的甜味、桂魚肉質鮮美緊致、肉夾馍的內餡和面餅搭配完美、紅棗蓮蓉松糕好吃到我一點都舍不得留下,打包帶走了。非常舒服的一餐。

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Though I originally planned to spend the afternoon in Hangzhou city, Amanfayun was so welcoming that I did not have any desire to leave once I got settled. After resting a bit in the room, we took an easy stroll to Yongfu Si right next door; There were almost no other visitors as it was almost closing time, leaving us to enjoy the temple grounds in such precious silence.

本來打算利用下午的時間去杭州市區或者西湖旁邊走走,不過入住法雲安缦後便舍不得離開這裏的清靜了。回房間稍稍休息後,去隔壁的永福寺散了個步。由于已接近關門時間,寺內幾乎無其他香客,能在如此安靜的狀態下參拜,實在幸運。

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After the stroll, a bath in the Spa house.

回到酒店裏,預約了 Spa 館的木桶泡澡。

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There are three suites for bathing, available for hotel guests with no extra charge (though reservation is recommended). Each suite has its own bath, shower, toilet, changing area,resting area, etc.

Spa 館有三個專門供給客人泡浴的套間,需要提前預約但沒有額外費用。套間裏非常寬敞,有休息區、泡澡區、淋浴室、衛生間、更衣室等。

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A cup of butterfly pea-infused tea after the bath to stay hydrated. Amanfayun also has an outdoor swimming pool, gym, yoga room, and spa services if you so desire.

泡完澡之後,喝杯蝶豆茶。法雲安縵另外也有室外泳池、健身房、瑜珈房、spa 服務等。

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The next day, we woke up at 4am to observe morning chanting at Faxi Si. In the dark and in the rain, we were picked up by the resort car and sent to temple, and though I imagined something totally zen (a few monks chanting in an otherwise silent hall), the whole temple was in fact swarming with people as it happened to be the birthday of Bodhisattva, so the whole temple was swarming with people. An interesting experience for sure, thanks for the arrangement of the resort.

爲了第二天早起去附近的寺廟上早課(法雲安缦可幫忙預約和接送)而打消了去喝杯小酒的念頭,泡完早後就回房間休息了。隔天清晨四點多起床,天尚未亮還下著雨,就乘著酒店的車到了法喜寺。本以爲一大早沒什麽人,不過沒想到當天因爲是菩薩誕辰的關系,廟裏站滿了前來念經的香客。雖然和本來想象的完全不同(心裏默默地以爲會很安靜很空靈,真是大誤),不過也是個有趣的體驗。

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The sky was just lighting up as we retreated back to Amanfayun, which was extra beautiful in  the rain and mist.

回到酒店時天才開始微亮。煙雨朦胧的感覺,非常美。

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We then went back to Steam House for breakfast. Though a western restaurant is also available on site, for me it seemed only fitting to have a traditional Chinese breakfast at Amanfayun…

梳洗完畢後,回到蒸菜館用早餐(也可以選擇在西餐廳吃西式早餐,不過感覺在法雲安缦就是要中式到底呀)。

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Hangzhou Traditional Set: beef soup with bean vermicelli, deep-fried chinese dough fritter, Qiantang steamed pork buns, “Dingsheng” cake.

杭式傳統早餐:牛肉粉絲湯、油條、錢塘小籠包、定勝糕。

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Fayun Spring Healthy Set: medlar millet congee, black soy milk, bamboo shoots & wild vegetable buns, steamed whole grains (sweet potato, edamame, yam, corn, arrowheads), deep-fried chinese dough fritter.

春季養生套餐:枸杞小米粥、現磨黑豆奶、荠菜春筍包、養生五谷雜糧(紫薯、毛豆、山藥、玉米、慈菇)、油條。

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Freshly made sugar-free soy milk.

豆漿是無糖的,和我自己在家裏做的一樣,非常健康。

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Here’s a sneak peek of the western restaurant, which serves breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea, dinner, and turns into a bar in the evening.

路過西餐廳進去瞧了瞧,不過這次沒有在這裏吃飯。這裏提供早、午、晚餐,也有西式的下午茶,晚上則變成酒吧。

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Cute strawberry family outside the restaurant.

餐廳入口處的可愛草莓小家庭。

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Quite a lot of people recommended the tea house, though I didn’t have a chance to try it this time. Again, all F&B outlets at Amanfayun are open to hotel and non-hotel guests alike, so feel free to come by even if you are not staying at the resort.

不少人都推薦了我去 “和茶館” 喝茶,不過這次只是路過。再提醒一下,法雲安缦裏面的餐廳和茶館都是對外開放的,不一定要是房客才可以來哦。

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Right before leaving Amanfayun, I made my way to Fayun Place, a two-storey building composed of internal courtyards, tea house, cigar room, and reading room.

最後逛到法雲舍,是個只對住客開放的會所。上下兩層面積非常大,有茶室、雪茄室、閱讀室,下午也有傳統的中國文化體驗。

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Chinese cultural classes are available for hotel guests everyday.

當日的文化體驗課是捏泥人。

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Tea room.

茶室。

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Reading room.

閱讀室。

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An interesting thing I noticed was that the entire resort (including the reception, guest rooms, spa house, and even the first floor of Fayun Place) plays the same traditional Chinese instrumental music, but on the second floor of Fayun Place it changes into jazz…a pleasant surprise.

到處都是寬敞舒服的位子,空間大的奢侈。在這裏發現一件有趣的事:酒店所有空間(包括前台、客房、Spa 館、法雲舍的一樓等)放的都是統一的中式古樂,不過法雲舍二樓卻換成輕松的爵士樂,上樓時突然注意到,有點驚訝(驚喜)。

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I was planning to sit for just a few moments before departing, but I started chatting with a hotel staff and her friend, who happened to be a monk visiting from Guangzhou. Before I knew it, almost two hours had passed! A most pleasant surprise, and an inspiring encounter.

本來只打算稍坐片刻後就起身前往下一個目的地,不過和一位酒店工作人員以及她從廣州來訪的法師朋友聊起天來,一不注意就快兩個小時過去了。究竟聊了什麽?诶,聊社會、聊旅行、聊出家…很有意思呢,和樓上的音樂一樣,是個有些突然但令人驚喜的邂逅。要不是因爲回上海之前和朋友約好了在其他地方碰面,還真希望能在這裏多待上些時間。

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If I didn’t have other appointments to attend to before heading back to Shanghai, I would’ve loved to linger for a bit longer at Amanfayun. The time spent here had been so pleasant, perhaps exactly because Aman fits right in with its surroundings, presenting everything in their natural beauty rather than seeking conspicuous luxury. Do come experience it for yourself…

中意安缦,是因爲在這裏非常舒服。這個舒服並非來自高調的奢華,而是來自安缦與周圍環境的和睦相處,一切都自然而然,恰如其分。如果你也有興趣體驗這份內斂、低調、含蓄的美,那麽找個機會來法雲安缦待上一點時間吧,我想你可能會喜歡。

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法雲安缦

地址:杭州西湖景區西湖街道法雲弄22號
電話:571 8732 9999
網站:www.aman.com
價位:每晚 5865 人民幣起
造訪:2017年3月

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[Shanghai 上海] Tai’an Table 2.0 泰安門 2.0 http://www.sugarednspiced.com/shanghai-taian-table-2-0/ Thu, 23 Feb 2017 01:16:26 +0000 http://www.sugarednspiced.com/?p=35398 Tai’an Table

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Website: www.taian-table.com
Hours: Tue-Sat 6pm-12am
Price: 1088/10 courses, 1388RMB/14 courses
Visited: Feb 2017

Please note that this was an arranged tasting.

I’ve written about Stefan Stiller’s Tai’an Table last April when this hidden restaurant first opened (click here to read), and it wasn’t long before it was awarded a Michelin star. To everyone’s surprise, however, Tai’an Table got shut down the very next day due to license issues, officially making it the shortest-lived Michelin restaurant in history. Talk about being dramatic.

去年四月泰安門剛開時,我曾寫過這家地址和電話都不公開的隱藏餐廳(沒看過這篇的人可以點擊這裏閱讀)。由德國名廚 Stefan Stiller 親自把關的創意料理在開業不久後獲得了米其林一星,整個團隊開心地喝香槟慶祝,卻沒想到得獎第二天就因爲證照不全而被迫停業,成爲史上壽命最短的米其林餐廳。

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But the incident turned out to be positive after all, as Tai’an Table got unprecedented media attention from both in and outside of China, including majors ones like the BBC. They quickly got reorganized and opened Tai’an Table 2.0 last December, at a new location near the intersection of Zhenning Lu and Xinzha Lu. Let’s take a look.

不過塞翁失馬焉知非福,泰安門因此上了不少國內外的大小媒體(包括英國 BBC),反倒打響了餐廳的名氣。去年 12 月他們整裝重啓,將泰安門 2.0 開在了鎮寧路新閘路口附近的巷弄裏。

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Keeping the design from version 1, Tai’an Table 2.0 is an open kitchen surrounded by 22 bar seats, with two tables of four on the side.

沿襲一店的設計,這裏有環繞著開放式廚房的 22 個座位以及兩個 4 人卡座,坐滿也只有30個位子,走的是精致路線。

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On the second floor, there is a bar in collaboration with Leroy Champagne – a nice place to have an aperitif while taking a sneak peek at the kitchen below through the slender windows.

二樓還有個和 Leroy 香槟合作的酒吧,可以餐前來這裏喝一杯,也可以透過窗戶看到樓下廚房的動靜。

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Tai’an Table offers a no-choice menu changing on a five-week basis. The 10-course option goes for 1088 RMB, and the 14-course is 1388 RMB. What I had this evening was Menu #6, which, compared to #1 from last April, presented even bolder and more captivating flavors. Below is chef Stefan Stiller and chef Jeno Racz preparing our dinner…

泰安門僅提供一套每 5 周更換的套餐,可以選擇 10 道 1088 元或者 14 道 1388 元。我這次吃到的是他們自開業以來第 6 個菜單,和去年四月嘗的 1 號菜單相比更大膽更精彩了。下圖是 Stefan Stiller 以及他手下的主廚 Jeno Racz,我們來看看當晚他們呈現了什麽樣的有趣料理…

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Course #1: welcome snacks and nibbles. The cube of beef tongue was especially memorable with its melting texture, and the olive-lookalike that’s in fact grape and olive oil was quite fun as well.

第一道:開胃小食,其中慢煮至酥軟的牛舌令人印象深刻;另外那個貌似是橄榄,其實是葡萄+橄榄油的創意也頗有趣。

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Course #2: “Le Puy” lentil salad, dry beef cheek, champignon. At the bottom is Le Puy lentil from France, topped with thinly sliced mushrooms, dry beef cheek, and wasabi mayonnaise. Lovely layers.

第二道:連弩豆色拉、風幹牛臉、蘑菇。最底下是法國的 Le Puy 連弩豆、疊上蘑菇薄片、撒上風幹的牛臉肉碎、再點綴上山葵蛋黃醬。層次豐富,融合得也巧妙。

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Course #3: tuna otoro, Kaluga queen caviar, chilled dashi. This dish is decidedly Japanese in both its looks and flavors, like…a fish swimming in a pond (except it’s been sliced and slightly torched, oops) under cute round leaves.

第三道:金槍魚大腹、卡露加魚子醬、凍高湯。 造型和風味都非常日式的一道料理,有種魚在池塘裏悠遊的意境,很美(葉子剪得好圓好可愛)。

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Course #4: Carabinero carpaccio, lime, grapefruit, crispy head. Loved the sweetness from the Carabinero shrimp in combination with lime and grapefruit, but the shrimp head was a bit disappointing – I don’t think it was intended to be eaten whole as it was not so crispy, but then there was not much to dig from.

第四道:Carabinero 生西班牙绯紅蝦薄片、青檸、西柚、香脆蝦頭。绯紅蝦薄片非常鮮甜,搭配的青檸和西柚也非常對味,不過蝦頭令人有些失望,炸得並不酥脆,幾乎沒什麽可以吃的部份。

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Course #5: foie gras “cake”, truffle, apple & kumquat chutney. The richness from the foie gras + truffle combination is nicely balanced by the apple kumquat chutney and pickled radishes on the side, a pleasant if not surprisingly dish.

第五道:鴨肝 “蛋糕”、黑松露、蘋果、金桔醬。鵝肝+黑松露這個奢華組合,再以蘋果金桔醬以及腌制蘿蔔的酸度來平衡油膩感,好吃但沒有特別驚喜的一道。

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Course #6: charred sardine, sauce vierge, basil, yuzu gel. Sardine isn’t the most luxurious fish we know, but it was prepared exquisitely in this case, a most charming surprise.

第六道:炭烤沙丁魚、番茄汁、羅勒、柚子醬。便宜的沙丁魚能被料理成這個樣子,真的是功夫了。

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Course #7: burnt onion, kohlrabi, chives, shimeji. A vegetarian dish full of umami, with house-pressed chive oil and an exciting acidity from pickled shimeji. One of my favorites for this evening.

第七道:焦香洋蔥、kohlrabi 芥菜頭、細香蔥、蟹味菇。一道非常鮮美的素菜料理,很細心的搭配上自家冷榨的細香蔥油,腌漬蟹味菇的酸味也是亮點。

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Course #8: turbot fillet “bouillabaise”. This soup was almost too acidic for me – and I usually love acidic flavors. I did enjoy the tender turbot and scallops as well as each meticulously-prepared vegetable, their soothing flavors somewhat offsetting the intensity of the soup.

第八道:大多寶魚 “馬賽魚湯”。鮮味和酸味都十足的一款湯品,強烈到連我這種愛吃酸的人都覺得是極限了。不過裏面有肉質細緻的多寶魚、極嫩的扇貝和小鱿魚、還有細心處理過的土豆、胡蘿蔔等蔬菜,他們溫和的味道還算勉強平衡了湯的酸度。

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Course #9: bone marrow, oyster cream, herb salad. I remembered this dish from menu #1, the richness of the bone marrow and oyster cream and the freshness of the herb salad making a delectable combination.

第九道:牛骨髓、新鮮生蚝醬、香草色拉。這道菜在泰安門第 1 個套餐中也有,不過香草的量似乎增加了,適當地緩解了牛骨髓的油膩。

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Course #10: cucumber sorbet, Hendrick’s Gin, herb snow. A refreshing palate cleanser.

第十道:黃瓜冰霜、亨德利金酒、香草雪花。清爽的 palate cleanser。

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Course #11: slow cooked beef short rib, mustard seeds, cashew nuts, lettuce. The beef short rib was first brined for a week then slow-cooked for 3 days, resulting in an incredibly soft and flavorful slab of meat. The accompanying mustard seeds have been cooked 7 times to remove its pungency and keep only the desired flavor and texture – indeed a dish that takes much time and effort. Lettuce with cashews on the side was also wow.

第十一道:慢煮牛肋、腌芥末籽、腰果、扒生菜。這牛肋經過一周的腌制以及三天的慢煮後,成果無比地軟嫩入味,搭配的腌芥末籽聽說用水燙過七次去辛辣,真的每一道工序都費時費力。旁邊的蔬菜也毫不遜色,生菜的調味以及腰果的口感搭配起來太棒了。

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Course #12: pigeon breast, black quinoa, artichoke cream. I quite liked the pigeon and the sauce made from its innards, though personally not a fan of the artichoke cream with black quinoa on the side – I enjoyed the meat with blackberries and beetroot cream instead.

第十二道:鴿胸、黑藜麥、洋薊。鴿肉以及鴿子內髒做的醬汁處理的不錯,不過個人覺得旁邊的黑藜麥洋薊泥不太搭調。

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Course #13: strawberry & pear, vodka, black pepper, thyme. Not so memorable.

第十三道:草莓 & 香梨、伏特加、黑胡椒、百裏香。清爽,不過似乎缺了味道上的層次,有點太過平淡。

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Course #14: chocolate, smoked sea salt. This dessert is chocolate in all its forms – as a mousse, as a sorbet, as a jelly; in its original flavor, with smoked sea salt, and paired with caramelized banana. It’s a gorgeous plate in terms of both the presentation and flavors, though I basically had 0 room in my stomach by this point and as this plate was quite rich, it was eventually left unfinished.

第十四道:巧克力、煙熏海鹽。這道甜點展現了巧克力的各種形式,有慕斯、有冰霜、有凍糕;有原味、有煙熏海鹽、有與焦糖香蕉的搭配。美麗豐富的一盤,不過因爲比較甜而且到了這個點胃空間已經是 0 的關系,最後沒有吃完。

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Farewell sweets: guimauve, pâte de fruits, canelé.

歡送甜點:棉花糖、水果糖、可麗露。

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The service at Tai’an Table was smooth throughout the evening, the chefs and the waitstaff gliding in and out like dancing a waltz. A full meal here takes about 4 hours, and as long as you are not in a hurry to go somewhere else, this would be a very worthwhile experience. I heard that they are changing menu in 2 weeks, so the question is…would you want to come take a look at #6 before it makes exit, or be the first to taste #7 when it comes out? Hmm, tough decision.

泰安門整晚的上菜速度都非常順暢,廚師們和服務人員在場內滑進滑出,像首華爾茲。14 道菜吃下來差不多要花 4 個小時,只要你不趕時間,這會是一長值得享受的精彩體驗。聽說再過兩周泰安門要換菜單了,你想要在#6 完美謝幕前去嘗一下,還是等#7 出爐後搶先去試試呢?嗯哼,好難決定。

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泰安門 Tai’an Table

地址:
電話:
訂位網站:www.taian-table.com
營業時間:周二-六 6pm-12am
價位:1088/10道菜,1388RMB/14道
造訪:2017年2月

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[Shanghai 上海] Chop Chop Club http://www.sugarednspiced.com/shanghai-chop-chop-club/ Mon, 20 Feb 2017 08:12:18 +0000 http://www.sugarednspiced.com/?p=35356 Chop Chop Club

Add: 2F, Three on the Bund, 1 Zhongshandongyi Lu
Tel: 5308 5399
Hours: seats at 6:30-7pm and 8-8:30pm
Price: 400~500 rmb/person
Visited: Feb 2017

Please note that this was an arranged tasting.

If you’ve been eating and drinking in Shanghai, you should know the name Paul Pairet (PP). This French chef has created many climaxes in the F&B scene here since his arrival in 2005 – Jade on 36 at Shangri-la Pudong, Mr & Mrs Bund at Bund 18, and Ultraviolet, the all-immersive dining experience that ranked #24 on World’s 50 Best Restaurants (in addition to two Michelin stars) in 2016. His most recent project, titled “Chop Chop Club” in collaboration with Unico, just opened a week ago and immediately became (unsurprisingly) the hotspot on the bund.

常在上海吃喝的人,對 Paul Pairet (PP) 這個名字一定不陌生。這位法國大廚自 2005 年以來在上海創造了各種餐飲界的高潮,比如浦東香格裏拉的 Jade on 36、比如外灘 18 號的 Mr & Mrs Bund,比如名列 World’s 50 Best Restaurants、去年得到米其林二星的全方位感官餐廳 Ultraviolet。最近他和外灘三號的 Unico 合開了一家名爲 Chop Chop Club 的餐廳,開幕才一周,已(不意外地)成爲外灘上最受矚目的新寵兒。

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Decor at Unico has remained largely unchanged, the only conspicuous difference being the addition of two large electronic screens detailing the carvery menu, constantly updated with time, price, and pieces left. Like this:

“18:30|cote de boeuf|650/portion, 1300/whole”
“19:45|grilled seabass|140/portion, 700/whole”
“20:15|char-roasted chicken|180/portion, 320/whole”

You will notice, upon closer inspection, that the first few items had already been sold out. Why yes, the dishes here go fast, so chop chop and order whatever you fancy before they are snatched by other tables, otherwise there’s no choice but to come back another evening.

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走進餐廳一看,Unico 的布置沒有太大的改動,不過架起了兩座電子屏幕。屏幕上寫著每晚更新的 carvery 菜單以及每種料理出爐的具體時間、價格、以及所剩份數,比如:

“18:30|烤肉眼|單份650元,整份1300元”
“19:45|香烤鲈魚|單份140元、整份700元”
“20:15|炭火烤雞|單份180元、整份320元”

仔細一看,前面幾款都已 sold out?!沒錯,這裏的美食不等人, 店名中的 “chop chop” 在英文裏的意思就是 “快一點”,所以在屏幕上看到自己想點的菜別忘了趕緊和服務員下單,一旦賣光就要下次再來吃啦。

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There’s PP himself slicing away in the open kitchen.

開放式廚房裏有 PP 本人坐鎮,正切著剛烤好的多寶魚。

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Beside him is Franck Salati, the executive chef at Unico.

他旁邊是 Franck Salati,Unico 的行政主廚。

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As you can imagine, this is not the typical formal restaurant you’d expect on the bund, but a rather fun and casual one. Though the cuisine is described as “bistro-style”, both the service and food are levels above a typical bistro. The price point, you ask? It’s around 400~500 rmb/person, not so crazy considering the quality of food and the Three on the Bund location.

這種模式的餐廳,想也知道沒有刻板印象中外灘餐廳的拘謹感,取而代之的是輕松熱絡的氣氛。料理風格可以說是法式鄉村,不過裏面加了很多 PP 的巧思,雖然走的是小館子風格,不過從服務到食物本身都不是一般小館子的 level。人均 400~500 左右,這個價格在外灘三號,不誇張。

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While waiting for the carvery, we first started with some drinks and hors d’oeuvre. PP has designed a couple of cocktails in collaboration with the Unico bar, and they come in a sharing bottle like this. I tried Swing Spritz, which tickles the tongue with its spicy Sichuan pepper.

在等待 Carvery 料理的時候,可先來杯酒嚐點前菜。PP 和 Unico 的酒吧合作設計了幾款有趣的調酒,呈現的方式是可以自由取用的大瓶子。我試的這款 Swing Spritz 有不少香料的風味,花椒帶來的微辣感挺有意思。

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Though carvery is the main focus at Chop Chop Club, its starters and side dishes are equally impressive. There was a flurry of dishes that descended upon our table and I won’t go into details about each of them, but will label the ones I particular like with * in red, just for reference:

雖然說 carvery 肉類料理應該是 Chop Chop Club 的重頭戲,不過其實光是前菜和沙拉部份就讓人大滿足了。當晚試了太多菜就不一一解釋了,不過會把我特別喜歡的幾道用 “*” 以及紅字標注供參考:

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*Beef tartar essential – shallots, cream, crouton (120 rmb).

*主廚特制生牛肉塔塔、小洋蔥奶油、麵包片(120元)。

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Burnt-grilled eggplant, cumin, sesame (70 rmb).

火烤茄子、孜然、芝麻(70元)。

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Avocado crushed guacamole, herbs, toast (70 rmb).

牛油果色拉、混合香草、烤吐司(70元)。

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*Charred octopus, ginger, lime aioli (90 rmb).

*炭烤章魚、生姜檸香蛋黃醬(90元)。

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*Roasted pumpkin peasant soup, onion, panchetta (4~6 pax, 200 rmb), depending on availability.

*烤南瓜湯、洋蔥、pancetta 義式熏肉(4~6位,200元),每日限量供應。

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Potato salad, mustard aioli, herbs (60 rmb).

土豆色拉、芥末蒜泥蛋黃醬、混合香草(60元)。

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*Charred creamy cauliflower, parmesan (80 rmb).

*炭烤奶油花菜、帕嗎森芝士(80元)。

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Grilled beef tongue, lime, salt (180 rmb/300 g, 30 min wait).

火烤牛舌、青檸、海鹽(180元/300克,需要等 30 分鍾)。

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Bertha’s shitake (100 rmb), to be removed with scissors at the table by yourself.

必須自己用剪刀取下來的 Bertha’s 炭烤香菇(100元)。

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And while we were feasting on all of the above, the carvery items appeared one after another – roasted-grilled turbot, char-roasted chicken, vineyard chargrilled “cote de boeuf” – and each was paraded around the dining room before being sliced and served.

在吃前菜的同時,Carvery 的料理一樣樣出現了。切開之前,服務員會將整只的多寶魚、烤雞、牛肋眼端出來給客人們看一眼。如果你不幸沒能點到某一款想吃的料理,那也只能聞著那令人垂涎的香味,擦擦口水下次再來了。

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I was too full from the hors d’oeuvres and the sides dishes (couldn’t resist, they were all too yum), so we only tasted two items from the carvery, first the terrific*roasted-grilled XL turbot (260 rmb/portion, 1500rmb/whole). In case you don’t realize that the accompanying olive oil is a top quality E.V.O.O. selected from Spain, the bottle has been labeled “good olive oil” – just an example of the whimsical touches sprinkled here and there.

當晚前菜吃得太飽(不能怪我,真的非常美味),所以 carvery 的料理只選了兩樣,首先是*炭烤特大號多寶魚(260元/單份,1500元/整份)。搭配的橄榄油,怕你不知道是從西班牙選來的極品,特地在上面標注著 “good olive oil”,有 PP 一貫的小幽默。

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Charred oxtail teriyaki (170 rmb/portion, 450 rmb/whole).

日式照燒醬調味的烤牛尾(170元/單份,450元/整份)。

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And should you need a break from the meat, do try the equally well-executed veggie dishes here, such as this*scorched cucumber hoisin-peanut, yogurt (60 rmb).

吃肉吃膩的時候,不如來點清爽的蔬菜,比如這款我個人非常愛的*花生海鮮醬烤黃瓜、酸奶、薄荷(60元)。

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Pomelo ginger oil, grapefruit granita (80 rmb).

薑汁柚子、西柚刨冰(80元)。

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For desserts, we were first served the savarin chantilly, flambé Grand Marnier (200 rmb), a formidable one large enough to share between 4~6 people. Savarin is a rich yeast cake baked in a ring mold and typically soaked in rum or kirsch syrup, perfect for those looking for a sweeter and heavier ending.

甜點時間,服務員推薦了沙瓦林蛋糕、火焰橙味力嬌酒(200元),份量足以給 4~6 人分享。Savarin 沙瓦林是法式傳統甜點 baba au rhum 其中一種呈現方式,味道偏甜口味偏重,比較不能接受高甜度和酒精的人,慎點。

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Watermelon “rafaichi” & balsamico, olive oil sorbet (70 rmb). The watermelon itself wasn’t very sweet, but was an interesting one nonetheless in combination with the balsamic vinegar and olive oil sorbet.

葡萄酒醋拌西瓜、橄榄油冰霜(70元)。可能因爲不是季節的關系把,西瓜本身甜味不高,不過跟葡萄酒醋和橄榄油冰霜這個組合挺有趣的。

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My favorite dessert of the evening was*raspberries essential, Jerez, fresh cream, burnt butter (100 rmb). The acidity from fresh raspberries covered in Spanish sherry vinegar was balanced by a soothing crème fraîche with burnt butter, so simple yet so delicious.

*新鮮樹莓、西班牙雪莉醋、鮮奶油、熱黃油(100元),當晚個人最愛的甜點。新鮮樹莓裹上風味濃郁的西班牙雪莉醋,酸甜的滋味再搭配 crème fraîche 以及焦味黃油,如此簡單卻如此美味。

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Ended the meal with some madeleinettes minutes (40 rmb). I’m not sure about my two dinner dates, but I was so full and satisfied by this meal that I was quite sure I didn’t need food for another 3 days.

最後以現點現烤的迷你瑪德蓮蛋糕(40元)做收尾。當天和兩位朋友一起用餐,我不知道她們感覺如何,總之我自己是覺得三天內不用再進食了。極飽、極滿足。

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Chop Chop Club is only at its soft-opening stage and is reservation only for now (sorry no walk-ins please). I heard reservations are out the roof already, but it doesn’t hurt to call and check for yourself – it is a place well worth the trouble.

Chop Chop Club 是家非常值得拔草的新餐廳 - 前菜、主菜、甜點都出色,讓人不禁佩服 PP 的實力。目前餐廳只接受訂位不能 walk in,雖然聽說到月底都已訂滿,但還是自己打電話去確認最靠譜,說不定就給你訂上了。快去試試吧,chop chop!

 

Chop Chop Club

地址:中山東一路3號2樓
電話:5308 5399
營業時間:入座時間 6:30-7pm 和 8-8:30pm
價位:人均 400元 左右
造訪:2017年2月

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