Archive for the ‘shanghai’ Category
Hours: Tue-Sat 6pm-12am
Price: 1088/10 courses, 1388RMB/14 courses
Visited: Feb 2017
Please note that this was an arranged tasting.
I’ve written about Stefan Stiller’s Tai’an Table last April when this hidden restaurant first opened (click here to read), and it wasn’t long before it was awarded a Michelin star. To everyone’s surprise, however, Tai’an Table got shut down the very next day due to license issues, officially making it the shortest-lived Michelin restaurant in history. Talk about being dramatic.
去年四月泰安門剛開時，我曾寫過這家地址和電話都不公開的隱藏餐廳（沒看過這篇的人可以點擊這裏閱讀）。由德國名廚 Stefan Stiller 親自把關的創意料理在開業不久後獲得了米其林一星，整個團隊開心地喝香槟慶祝，卻沒想到得獎第二天就因爲證照不全而被迫停業，成爲史上壽命最短的米其林餐廳。
But the incident turned out to be positive after all, as Tai’an Table got unprecedented media attention from both in and outside of China, including majors ones like the BBC. They quickly got reorganized and opened Tai’an Table 2.0 last December, at a new location near the intersection of Zhenning Lu and Xinzha Lu. Let’s take a look.
不過塞翁失馬焉知非福，泰安門因此上了不少國內外的大小媒體（包括英國 BBC），反倒打響了餐廳的名氣。去年 12 月他們整裝重啓，將泰安門 2.0 開在了鎮寧路新閘路口附近的巷弄裏。
Keeping the design from version 1, Tai’an Table 2.0 is an open kitchen surrounded by 22 bar seats, with two tables of four on the side.
沿襲一店的設計，這裏有環繞著開放式廚房的 22 個座位以及兩個 4 人卡座，坐滿也只有30個位子，走的是精致路線。
On the second floor, there is a bar in collaboration with Leroy Champagne – a nice place to have an aperitif while taking a sneak peek at the kitchen below through the slender windows.
二樓還有個和 Leroy 香槟合作的酒吧，可以餐前來這裏喝一杯，也可以透過窗戶看到樓下廚房的動靜。
Add: 99 Yandang Lu
Tel: N/A for the moment
Hours: [Sober Cafe] 8am-1am [Sober Kitchen] 5pm-12am [Sober Society] 7pm-2am
Price: [dishes] 55~190 rmb [cocktails] 85-130 rmb
Visited: Feb 2017
Since opening in 2014, Speak Low has been one of Shanghai’s hottest (+ one of my personal favorite) bars, and its popularity grew even wilder after they won #2 in Asia’s 50 Best Bars last year. In the meanwhile, its owners have been preparing for a grander project – whimsically named “Sober Company” – which soft-opened earlier this month. If you know anything about the team, you’d chuckle at this name…because you know that there is no way you are walking out of here sober.
Speak Low 自 2014 年開幕以來一直是上海最紅（以及我個人很喜歡的）酒吧之一，而在去年得到亞洲 50 Best Bars 第三名後更是一座難求 － 我最近有一次在周四晚上前往，結果直接被擠了出來（明明不是周末…）。在 Speak Low 人氣爆表的同時，老板們在這個月低調地開了家名爲 Sober Company 的新店。Sober 意爲 “清醒的、未醉的”，想想實在是個很幽默的名字…你覺得你來 Speak Low 老板開的店，能夠清醒地走出去？呵呵。
I’m doing a bit of pastry consulting for Sober Company and so was lucky to get a preview of the place before it opened. The location is at the crossroad of Yandang Lu and Nanchang Lu. Its storefront, donned in a charming grayish-blue, reads Sober Café, Sober Kitchen, and Sober Society. That’s right, this place serves more than just alcohol.
This two-storey, New York-inspired establishment is orchestrated by Shingo Gokan, champion of the Bacardi Global Legacy cocktail competition in 2012, as well as the man behind New York’s Angel’s Share for the past 10 years.
打造 Sober 的是自 2012 年得到 Bacardi Global Legacy 調酒大賽冠軍後一炮而紅的日本調酒師 Shingo Gokan 以及他的團隊，店的靈感來自他住了十幾年的紐約。
Add: No. 41, Alley 248 Taikang Lu (inside Tianzifang)
Tel: 6466 1042
Visited: Dec 2016
In a city like Shanghai, where the F&B scene changes constantly with daily openings and closings, the restaurants and cafes that stick around become all the more rare and precious. Like Cafe Dan. This small cafe in Tianzifang has been there since 2007, and is perpetually filled with the alluring aroma of freshly brewed coffee and delicious Japanese comfort food that I don’t mind going out of my way for.
There are three stories to Cafe Dan. The 1st floor is used mostly as storage, and to get to the seats one must climb up dangerously steep steps to the 2nd and 3rd floors. It’s not an especially spacious cafe, and fills up quickly on weekends.
Cobra Lily 鏡花水月
Add: No. 19, Alley 181, Taicang Road, Xintiandi, Shanghai
Tel: 5351 0116
Price: [lunch] 78~128 rmb/set [dinner] 300~350 rmb/person
Visited: Nov 2016
For a very long time, my overall impression for Xintiandi has been: expensive restaurants serving not so amazing food. The recently-opened Cobra Lily, however, is something to be noticed. Brought to you by the team behind The Boxing Cat and Liquid Laundry, Cobra Lily does creative fusion Asian cuisine priced around 100 rmb for lunch and 300 rmb for dinner – it doesn’t get much more reasonable for this neighborhood.
對新天地的總體印象是：餐廳個個價格高、東西卻又不怎麼樣，不過最近 The Boxing Cat 和 Liquid Laundry 的老板們新開的 “Cobra Lily 鏡花水月” 倒有點令人眼睛一亮 － 亞洲創意菜做的很有特色，而且午餐一百左右、晚餐三百左右的價位也不誇張。去了三次之後覺得可以推薦，速速整理下照片分享給你。
Let’s take a look at the decor first. The two-storey space includes a restaurant, a bar, and a DJ stand on the 2nd floor. The designer kept the original Shikumen structure while incorporating modern oriental elements – wall illustrations, vases, napkins, cushions…sprinkled here and there.
Add: B1, K11 Shopping Mall, 300 Huaihai Middle Road
Price: [chocolates] 20 rmb/pc [hot chocolate] 98 rmb/glass [plated desserts] 168 rmb
Visited: Nov 2016
You might remember my post back in August about Pierre Marcolini coming to Shanghai. His newest boutique / salon de thé recently opened on the B1 floor of K11 Mall, and it doesn’t only have chocolates and macarons for sale, but also a transparent chocolate lab that produces hot chocolate and plated desserts. On a cold winter day like this, a dose of chocolate really doesn’t sound like a bad idea.
For those who didn’t read the last post, here’s a quick recap: Belgian chocolatier Pierre Marcolini, after winning the title of World Champion of Pastry in 1995, opened his first shop in Brussels, and subsequently in Paris, London, Tokyo, Monaco, Luxembourg etc. I first tasted his chocolates almost 6 years ago in Brussels, what a pleasant surprise to now find his shop in Shanghai.
給沒看過上一篇的人一個快速簡介：Pierre Marcolini 來自比利時，1995年在法國裏昂得到世界甜點冠軍之後，于布魯塞爾開了自己的第一家巧克力店，現在在巴黎、倫敦、東京、摩納哥等地方也都能看到他的作品。我在巴黎時因爲看的一個叫做 “Qui Sera Le Prochain Grand Pâtissier”（誰會成爲下一個甜點大師）的電視節目而認識了他，沒想到店居然開到了上海，有點令人開心。
Compared to his previous pop-up store, the new boutique now also offers financiers baked fresh in Shanghai everyday (chocolates and macarons are flown in from Belgium).
跟之前二樓的 pop-up store 相比，新店裏多了我很喜歡的常溫蛋糕 financier 費南雪，這些是上海當地每天新鮮烘焙的。其他的巧克力和馬卡龍都是在比利時的巧克力工廠制作後空運而來。
Add: 6F, 20 Guangdong Lu, Shanghai
Tel: 5383 2031
Price: 300~350 rmb/person
Visited: Nov 2016
Bo Shanghai‘s neighbor Daimon Bistro is also presented to the Shanghai dining crowd by chef Alvin Leung, but in terms of price point it’s much easier to swallow (around 300 rmb/person) for its fine dining other half. The design inspiration comes from Hong Kong’s Kowloon Walled City – pawnshop at the entrance, purple neon lights, walls full of graffiti, waiters dressed in cop and gangster outfits – all the details chip in for the wild and raucous ambience at the bistro.
Bo Shanghai 的鄰居 Daimon Bistro 同樣出于 Alvin Leung 之手，是（以外灘來說）價格親民的餐廳。設計靈感來自香港 “三不管” 九龍城寨，入口處的當鋪、紫色暧昧燈光、滿牆壁的塗鴉，各種細節營造出混亂市井的氛圍，連服務員都穿的像警察和流氓（金項鏈好閃）。
The bar area, using bamboo to mimic the scaffoldings in the Walled City.
Add: 6/F, Bund 5, 5 Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu
Tel: 5383 3656
Price: set menu 1500 RMB + 10%, with wine pairing 2200 RMB + 10%
Visited: Oct 2016
Please note that this was an invited tasting arranged by the restaurant.
I haven’t been to Bo Innovation in Hong Kong, but I have heard quite a lot about this much-debated Three Michelin star restaurant and its self-proclaimed “demon chef” Alvin Leung. London-born, Canada-raised Alvin was originally an engineer, and after teaching himself how to cook, he opened Bo Innovation in his 40s and quickly won two Michelin stars (subsequently three stars, and the restaurant is also currently ranked #28 in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants). His brand new Bo Shanghai recently soft-opened, and before it officially launches at the end of this month, let’s go have a sneak peek.
沒有吃過香港的 Bo Innovation，不過對這家爭議不斷的米其林三星餐廳和其自稱 “廚魔” 的主廚 Alvin Leung 早有耳聞。倫敦出生、加拿大長大的 Alvin 本是工程師，自學廚藝後在40幾歲時開了自己第一家餐廳 Bo Innovation，並迅速得到了米其林得青睐（目前也名列 “世界最佳50餐廳” 第28位）。最近他在上海外灘五號的 Bo Shanghai 開始試運營，聽說月底要正式開幕，趕在那之前，先來嚐嚐。
Arriving on the 6th floor of Bund Five, I was led through Bistro Daimon (another new concept by Alvin) to the hidden Bo Shanghai. So it does seem like everything needs to be hidden these days…like Tai’an Table (which was recently awarded one Michelin star but had to close due to license issues) or Speak Low (a perpetually packed speakeasy bar by famed Japanese bartender Shingo Gokan). Bo Shanghai has just 26 seats (including 6 at the bar) with a nice view of the bund, though the view really isn’t the focus here…
抵達外灘五號的6樓，先經過 Bistro Daimon，在服務人員的引導下來到藏在牆後的 Bo Shanghai。現在的餐廳（比如剛得米其林一星就被迫關門的泰安門）和酒吧（像是穿過角落的書架方得入內的Speak Low），為何都流行藏起來？Anyway，進入 Bo Shanghai 後發現其實地方很小，位子就26個，夜景挺美的（不過來這裡吃飯，夜景應該不是重點哦…）
The two chefs at Bo Shanghai (DeAille and Simon, the two on the right in the photo below) are both Cantonese who grew up in Toronto, and before arriving in Shanghai they were working with Alvin for over two years in Bo Innovation.
Bo Shanghai 的兩位主廚（下圖右邊二位）是在多倫多長大的香港人，來上海之前在 Bo Innovation 工作了兩年多。女主廚 DeAille 說話非常客氣，有空時會很詳細的分享他們的料理故事。男主廚 Simon 說起話來很活潑，有種天然的喜感（喂，這樣說別人好嗎？）。我坐在吧台前用餐，邊吃邊和他們兩位聊天，學習了不少有趣的事情。
Bo Shanghai’s 10-course tasting menu (1500 RMB + 10%, with wine pairing 2200 RMB + 10%) is inspired by the traditional cuisine from China’s 8 different regions, in fusion with French techniques, and is completely different from the offerings in Hong Kong. To start, here are the amuse bouche: croissant with scallion oil filling, and a Chinese bun with black truffles and comté cheese.
Bo Shanghai 的菜色將來自于中國八大菜系的靈感與法國料理做了結合，呈現的是和香港店完全不同的創意。目前只有一個10道菜的套餐，價格 1500 RMB + 10%（配酒套餐 2200 RMB + 10%)。從開胃的 amuse bouche 和面包就已經能嚐到主廚們的融合概念，比如這個放了蔥油的可頌，以及加了黑松露和法國的 comté 芝士的中式花卷。
It’s almost the end of Fall, and before the fig season is officially over, it is absolutely imperative to make a fig almond tart. Here’s a simple recipe that can be done at home, composed to a shortbread tart shell, homemade fig jam, almond cream, and fresh figs. It’s pretty, and it’s delicious.
It’s not always the case to add raspberries to fig tarts, but I thought it’d be nice to add a bit of acidity, especially when pairing the tart with a glass of Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque Edition Automne 2005, a champagne I recently discovered at a tasting event. For pairing with this charming rose champagne, I added some fresh raspberries, and increased the dose of lime juice in the jam recipe for extra acidity.
So, let’s get started.
For the tart shell:
butter…48g / powdered sugar…30g / eggs…19g / ground almond…10g / salt…0.5g / flour…80g
1. Separately, sift all powders.
Add: 206, K11 Shopping Mall, 300 Middle Huaihai Road
Tel: 6333 7318
Price: [chocolate] 20-22 RMB/ea [macaron] 250 RMB/ea (pre-packaged boxes available)
Visited: Jun 2016
I passed by a Pierre Marcolini boutique five years ago in Brussels by chance, and, without knowing anything about this brand, bought two boxes of chocolates just because the shop was pretty. Some post hoc research told me that Pierre Marcolini won the title of World Champion of Pastry in 1995, and has shops not only in Brussels, but also in Paris, London, Tokyo, Monaco, Luxembourg etc. In fact, he is kind of a big deal.
五年前在布魯塞爾閒逛時，曾無意間經過一家非常漂亮的巧克力店。擡頭一看，名字是 ”Pierre Marcolini“…嗯，沒聽過，不過樣子似乎很厲害，那就買兩盒試試吧。後來才知道 Pierre Marcolini 是位出名的比利時巧克力大師，1995 年在法國裏昂得到世界甜點冠軍之後，于布魯塞爾開了自己的第一家巧克力店，現在在巴黎、倫敦、東京、摩納哥等地方也都能看到他的作品。
But it wasn’t until moving to Paris that I got to know a bit more about this chocolatier, mostly through a French TV show I used to follow called “Qui Sera Le Prochain Grand Pâtissier” (Who Will be the Next Big Pastry Chef”), in which Pierre Marcolini was one of the four judges.
不過其實對這位巧克力師更多的印象，是來自我後來住巴黎時看的一個叫做 “Qui Sera Le Prochain Grand Pâtissier”（誰會成爲下一個甜點大師）的電視節目。這是個幾乎所有法國甜點師都會看的節目，我當時也不例外的每周追隨，而 Pierre Marcolini 就是四位大有來頭的評審之一。
And just last week, his boutique opened in Shanghai. So far it’s a temporary pop-up on the second floor of K11 shopping mall, though a tea salon is scheduled open in October – something to look forward to. On an unrelated note, even the doorknobs are in the shape of Marcolini’s signature chocolate squares…how cute!
就在上周，他的巧克力店在上海開幕了。地點位于 K11 的二樓，目前只是暫時的零售 pop-up store，十月份會開有座位的 salon de thé，除了有巧克力之外，聽說還會有別的驚喜？不知道是甜點還是冰淇淋還是什麽，總之令人有些期待。（連門把都是 Marcolini 巧克力磚的造型，可愛。）
Et voilà voilà, les chocolats.
Garden Terrace at Le Baron
Add: 7F 20 Donghu Road
Tel: 5424 5181
Hours: Tue-Sat 5-11pm (closed on Sun-Mon)
Price: [alcohol] 70-100 RMB [oysters] 98-256 RMB/dozen from 5-8pm, 198-456 RMB/dozen after 8pm
Visited: May 2016
Shanghai has been raining nonstop lately, so I’m going to tell you about a good place to go when it finally turns sunny and we’ll all have something to look forward to. You might have heard of Le Baron, or are even a frequent patron of this ever-so-popular night club, but you probably didn’t know that it has a lovely garden terrace up on its rooftop. There’s sun, cool breeze, music, alcohol, and the best part is that it’s not so crowded…well, at least for now.
最近上海真是下雨下到人都要長霉了，所以今天決定介紹一個放晴時的好去處給大家心裏曬曬太陽。 你可能知道 Le Baron 這家傳說中紅到很難入場的夜店，不過你應該想不到它的頂樓居然藏了一個隱秘舒適的露台…有陽光、有微風、有音樂、有美酒，而且重點是人超級少。嗯，至少目前爲止是的。
For those who haven’t been, this is what Le Baron looks like. These two photos were taken in the afternoon before the club opens, hence the lack of people. It’s indeed a bit eerie to see the space this empty, given how happening it is during night time.
我們先看一眼 Le Baron 舞池和 lounge 的部份。這兩張照片是下午還沒開門時拍的，可自行配上人頭竄動的畫面還有咚滋咚滋的背景音樂。