Archive for the ‘paris’ Category
Chop Chop Club
Add: 2F, Three on the Bund, 1 Zhongshandongyi Lu
Tel: 5308 5399
Hours: seats at 6:30-7pm and 8-8:30pm
Price: 400~500 rmb/person
Visited: Feb 2017
Please note that this was an arranged tasting.
If you’ve been eating and drinking in Shanghai, you should know the name Paul Pairet (PP). This French chef has created many climaxes in the F&B scene here since his arrival in 2005 – Jade on 36 at Shangri-la Pudong, Mr & Mrs Bund at Bund 18, and Ultraviolet, the all-immersive dining experience that ranked #24 on World’s 50 Best Restaurants (in addition to two Michelin stars) in 2016. His most recent project, titled “Chop Chop Club” in collaboration with Unico, just opened a week ago and immediately became (unsurprisingly) the hotspot on the bund.
常在上海吃喝的人，對 Paul Pairet (PP) 這個名字一定不陌生。這位法國大廚自 2005 年以來在上海創造了各種餐飲界的高潮，比如浦東香格裏拉的 Jade on 36、比如外灘 18 號的 Mr & Mrs Bund，比如名列 World’s 50 Best Restaurants、去年得到米其林二星的全方位感官餐廳 Ultraviolet。最近他和外灘三號的 Unico 合開了一家名爲 Chop Chop Club 的餐廳，開幕才一周，已（不意外地）成爲外灘上最受矚目的新寵兒。
Decor at Unico has remained largely unchanged, the only conspicuous difference being the addition of two large electronic screens detailing the carvery menu, constantly updated with time, price, and pieces left. Like this:
“18:30｜cote de boeuf｜650/portion, 1300/whole”
“19:45｜grilled seabass｜140/portion, 700/whole”
“20:15｜char-roasted chicken｜180/portion, 320/whole”
You will notice, upon closer inspection, that the first few items had already been sold out. Why yes, the dishes here go fast, so chop chop and order whatever you fancy before they are snatched by other tables, otherwise there’s no choice but to come back another evening.
走進餐廳一看，Unico 的布置沒有太大的改動，不過架起了兩座電子屏幕。屏幕上寫著每晚更新的 carvery 菜單以及每種料理出爐的具體時間、價格、以及所剩份數，比如：
仔細一看，前面幾款都已 sold out？！沒錯，這裏的美食不等人， 店名中的 “chop chop” 在英文裏的意思就是 “快一點”，所以在屏幕上看到自己想點的菜別忘了趕緊和服務員下單，一旦賣光就要下次再來吃啦。
Add: 345 Des Voeux Rd W, Shek Tong Tsui, Hong Kong
Tel: +852 2177 5050
Hours: 6pm-12am (closed on Mon)
Price: 400+ HKD/person
Visited: Aug 2016
I pretty much didn’t leave the area between Wanchai and Sheungwan on this trip to Hong Kong, except for this visit to Rhoda. Located in Sai Ying Pan (which is slightly west of Sheungwan), Rhoda has been opened for only 2 months, helmed by Nate Green of the 22 Ships and Ham & Sherry fame. The food is modern European comfort food, inspired by Green’s memory of his grandmother’s cooking back in England.
這次香港之旅的活動大概都是在灣仔和上環之間，唯一一次超出這個範圍就是在 Rhoda 的晚餐。位于西營盤的 Rhoda 是間才剛開兩個多月的新餐廳，是不少香港潮人出沒的地方。廚房由 22 Ships 及 Ham & Sherry 的前行政總廚 Nate Green 負責，做的是這幾年來很流行的 modern European comfort food。
The menu at Rhoda changes daily according to the marketing offerings, and there are no real “signature dishes”. For this new restaurant, Green chooses to use real open-pit fire instead of gas stove tops typically seen in modern kitchens – an interesting decision that affects the flavors of all his dishes.
Beer bread (Suntory dark ale), seaweed butter (28 HKD).
Lotus root chips, chicken liver cream (38 HKD).
Christmas is no doubt the busiest season for pastry chefs. I spent my past three Christmas in different pastry kitchens in Paris, and the most memorable was definitely at Fauchon where we made over 6000 cakes for the season. Imagine: a kitchen filled with pastry chefs in Santa hats working on Christmas cakes until late nights…yup, that was us. “Bûche de Noël” is literally a “Christmas log”, but of course nowadays pastry chefs are going above and beyond the log shape, using Christmas as the opportunity to showcase their creativity. Here are a few of my favorites from the 2015 Christmas cake collection, sharing them with you so we can drool together.
Name: La bûche à trésors
Flavors: chocolate, yuzu, almond, citrus
Price: 130 €
Lenôtre works with a different brand every year to create their Christmas cake, and this year, it’s Hermes’ petit h. All these little items on the cake are sculpted from chocolate and almond paste, very pretty…too pretty, in fact, that I wouldn’t know where to cut!
Name: Bûche d’Enfer
Flavors: dark chocolate, nougat, buckwheat honey
Price: 36-77 €
A contrast of red and black, with flames and little demons…this is not your warm and fuzzy Christmas cake. The demons chocolate stand is optional for purchase, but I guess the cake wouldn’t be as interesting with only the red flames. In terms of flavor, it’s JPH’s specialty – chocolate.
Name: Houx Là Là
Flavors: Bergamot, lemon, milk chocolate, vanilla, raspberry
Price: 100 €
All I want to say is that this cake looks very complicated to assemble…to my colleagues who are still there, good luck. I wonder if this year they are also going to churn out 6000 Christmas cakes?
Add: 3 rue Neuve Popincourt, 75012 Paris
Tel: 01 43 55 60 10
Hours: [Mon-Fri] 8:30am-5:30pm [Sat-Sun] 9:30am-6:30pm
Price: [coffee] €2.4-5 [food] €4-12
Visited: Aug 2015
A new addition to the Paris cafe scene. Great coffee, friendly service, banana bread served with salted butter, and freshly assembled sandwiches toasted to order. What’s not to love?
Spent some time to reorganize the pastries I’ve tasted in Paris during the past three years. 40+ shops, 300+ pastries, listed alphabetically by shop name. It’s not exactly complete yet, but I’m already eager to share it with you all. If you see a pastry you like, hover over the photo for its name, or click on it to see cross sections and compositions :)
Add: 112, rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris
Tel: 01 53 43 43 00
Hours: [afternoon tea] 3-6pm
Price: [afternoon tea] €80/tea set for two
Visited: Sep 2015
Before leaving Paris, I wanted to have one last afternoon tea at a hotel. Crossing off the ones I’ve already been to – Le Meurice, Plaza Athénée, Shangri-la, The Peninsula, George V – I decided to try Le Bristol and the delicious creations from renowned pastry chef Laurent Jeannin.
The Thé Complèt (€48/person, or €80/for two) includes two beverages and a three-tier stand of savories and sweets. Though it’s designed for two people, it can easily satisfy three people in terms of the amount of food that’s served. Details to follow.
Add: 200, rue Saint-Jacques – 75005 Paris
Tel: 01 43 07 77 59
Hours: [Tue-Sun] 9am-8pm (closed on Mon & Tue)
Visited: Sep 2015
I didn’t know about Sébastien Dégardin until I read the latest Fou de Patisserie magazine, where I found out that this ex-pastry chef from the legendary Troisgros now runs his own pastry boutique in Paris 5eme near the Pantheon. Where have I been?!
So I went straight away to sample a few pastry creations from the chef, starting with Mara (€5.50), composed of a dacquoise with almonds, light vanilla cream, and red fruit compote, all wrapped around by a soft biscuit, then topped with hazelnut streusel and fresh fig.
Le Chocolat Alain Ducasse
Add: 40 rue de la Roquette, 75011*
Tel: 01 48 05 82 86
Hours: [Tue-Sat] 10:30am-7pm
Price: €14+/chocolate bar, €25+/discovery box
Visited: Sep 2015
The first bean-to-bar chocolate manufacturing facility in Paris, opened by none other than THE Alain Ducasse himself. Unfortunately photos are not allowed inside the shop so I can’t show you the fun things happening inside the factory, so do go and see it for yourself. Together with Patrick Roger, this is on the top of my chocolatier list in Paris.
*Additional locations available, details on their website.
I took home a discovery box (€28), which includes:
- 5 single origin chocolates: Java, Madagascar, Venezuela, Peru, and Trinidad.
- 7 ganache chocolates: raspberry, lime, tonka, mint, passionfruit & coconut, coffee, and vanilla.
- 9 praline chocolates: hazelnuts (black and milk chocolate), almonds (black and milk chocolate), coconut, peanut, hazelnut and almond (black and milk chocolate), and pistachio.
You can also choose boxes with only single origins, ganaches, or pralines, and you can pick your own combinations at a higher price.
Add: 12, rue de l’Amiral Roussin, 75015 Paris
Tel: 01 42 73 66 66
Hours: Tue-Sat 12-2:30pm, 7:30-10:30pm (closed on Sun & Mon)
Price: [lunch] €40 / €70 with wine pairing [dinner] €70 / €107 with wine pairing
Visited: Sep 2015
Japanese chef Hideki Nishi, previously at George V, now runs this discrete restaurant on a quiet street in the 15th arrondissement. As is typical of Japanese establishments in Paris, the design of Neige d’Eté is minimal and monotone – white walls, white chairs, white table clothes…so that the only colors that pop out are the fresh flowers, and of course the vibrant dishes that come out from the cuisine. We were there for lunch (€40), composed of amuse bouche, appetizer, fish course, meat course, dessert, and petits fours – a light and agreeable meal.
Add: 129 Avenue Parmentier, 75011 Paris
Tel: 01 43 57 45 95
Hours: Tue-Sat 7:30-11pm (closed Sun & Mon)
Visited: Sep 2015
Le Chateaubriand was one of the first restaurants I’d heard about when I arrived in Paris. It’s a hot restaurant, ranked #21 on S. Pellegrino’s The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list, higher than many other prestigious establishments in Paris such as Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athenee and L’Astrance. Rankings aside, I’ve heard both extremely positive and extremely negative comments from friends who have gone…and it took me 3 years to eventually come and try it for myself. The fixed price is €70 for a flurry of small dishes, mostly very delicious on the evening of our visit (menu changes daily according to the market). It started with some gougeres (savory cream puffs) and liquid ceviche (basically, the taste of ceviche in a shot).
Little shrimps, fried and covered in plum powder.
An assortment of sliced tomatoes with oysters.
Fennel broth with passionfruit.